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About WhatsReef

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  1. Thanks for the info. It's this bad boy right here - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/varios-2-controllable-dc-pump-792-gph-reef-octopus.html There's surprisingly little detailed info about it available online really, but "Submersible or External - Perfect as a return, closed loop, or reactor/filter pump." is part of the spec sheet. Assuming the whole system is a closed loop and the pump housing is designed to hold the pressure it generates (which I assumed was a given), wouldn't it be basically the same additional load on the pump whether the additional tubing distance onto the intake or the outtake? I see that you're saying the answer is "no", but that's how I was thinking about it and if I'm wrong I'd be interested in understanding why. The pumping action itself is creating suction and it makes sense that this load would be tacked onto the work the pump is doing. But I don't get why that load is more of a burden for the pump. Like say you got it running mounted to the ceiling above your tank. I would imagine the work of gravity would add onto the output power and this extra boost on the downward trip would offset the suction required to pull the water up - total distance pumped being the only variable that would affect the stress on the pump since the water is starting and ending at the same level. Does the reason this isn't true lie in the design of the pump? Thanks again for the helpful reply 🤙
  2. I mean external as the opposite of submerged. It doesn't fit in the return pump chamber - was just going to have it sitting on the table behind the tank with an intake and outtake tube going into the tank... so just running a 1" tube into the bottom of the return pump chamber (with a screen on it to block large objects) to suck the water out, then the 3/4" tubing runs back to the tank and connects to the 2 return nozzles that are pre-installed in the tank. Make sense? I guess if I gotta use stiff tubing I can use some 90 degree fittings to avoid too much bending. Would be nice if there was something really flexible... maybe just not the type of product with wide enough appeal to produce...
  3. I got myself a Varios 2 for my Fusion 40 because I'm nuts. I was going to run it externally from just behind the tank. There's no instruction booklet but It looks like they're pushing me toward 1" ID for the intake and 3/4" ID for the outtake based on the adapters included. I was going to do all barbed connections with flexible tubing. Basically a hose running into the bottom of the central chamber, then a 3/4" ID hose that splits into 1/2" ID and feeds the 2 nozzles. I haven't pulled out and examined the current tubing yet, but I'm guessing I can feed the 3/4" tube right into the splitter that came with the tank. 1. Am I wrong to use all flex tubing and barbed connections - is this a bad idea for any reason. I was going to really work them on deep and clamp them down with those miniature versions of the things you use to attached flexible ducting to metal ducting just for good measure. 2. Where can I find good flexible tubing at this large of diameter. The flex tubing they make for computer cooling systems looks dope and I wish I could get something like that in 3/4" ID and 1" ID but it seems to only go up to 1/2". I can get away with the braided 3/4" tubing to feed the returns I think, but I don't want super stiff 1" tubing as it will run down into the AIO chamber. I guess if I have to use stiff 1" tube I can use a U-shaped connector or 2 x 90 degree elbows to run it around the back glass straight up and down, but if there was a high-grade flexible tubing that would be ideal. 3. Any other suggestions would be great, never hooked up an external water pump before Thanks!
  4. I just got back in after like 4-5 years and it's been a blast. Enjoy, man!
  5. If you do water changes with reef crystals or a similar mix that has all your necessary stuff in the right proportions it should be fine with softies and fish. You'd notice algae if you had nutrient problems. I'd stop using the Kent system and just count on the reef crystals personally.
  6. Just do water changes with reef crystals and that will keep your numbers in pretty good shape. If you're not going to invest in the Hanna meters (or other good tester) for calcium/alk then I wouldn't be dosing calcium/alk.
  7. I'd have to guess they are dying off starting at the tips and the slime is forming on the dead tissue.
  8. My only suggestion is get an MP10 for your display area circulation. It's a little overpowered for a 20g-ish but you won't have to run it at full strength so it should last longer. You'll have no cord running into the display area and the speed/mode controls are awesome.
  9. I did look a little like the foraminiferans before, but seems to have changed shaped since my last post. Looks like maybe they are small sponges as one is growing an "arm" of sorts. The other actually looks like it has shrunk a bit and it less of a sphere shape and more of a nub shape now. Thanks to all for input. I need to get a new cell phone with a good camera. My Galaxy S5 doesn't cut it for these kinds of photos.
  10. Sorry didn't get back to you before. Yeah just get some superglue gel (cyanoacrylate like @Clown79 said) and you can use that for anything you need inside the tank like gluing frags or other random stuff.
  11. PS Where did you get that gorgeous tank stand. Is that the one that comes with the tank?
  12. Er, I guess the slits don't provide enough flow if the hole is plugged? I guess you'd have to drill some holes or leave the hole unplugged? Is the return pump overpowered so it's shooting water back into the display faster than it can come through the slits? If so you need more holes/slits for water to flow to the back or you need a weaker return pump. Adding a nozzle on the end of your return might help. If this bottle-necks the return tube down to create more pressure that will put more work on the pump and it won't pump as fast. Try adding a directional flow nozzle onto the return and see if that helps. Might really cut down the return pump's output but I don't have experience on how much this will decrease flow.
  13. I don't know about that. But you could certainly cover the exposed metal with a thin layer of super glue or an inert black epoxy and then you won't have to think about it.
  14. Don't even worry about it, that looks pretty standard. It is indeed a bristle worm. Some of the ones I have have bright red on the front portion and the back 2/3 or so is purple-ish - they look real similar to that one. They'll just eat scraps and detritus and stuff and they can get really big. But shouldn't cause any problems and will serve as part of your clean up crew. Check the tank after the lights are out and you'll see them lurking around.
  15. I have these little pom pom balls on top of a piece of live rock and they look like tiny urchins. They are a little smaller than a pencil eraser but more of a spherical shape. They pretty much have been in the same spot for as long as I can remember but they look very much like little organisms. Sometimes I feel like they've moved slightly (like a couple cms), but I might be imagining that. Small patches look smooth and lighter, but most has tiny little spine looking things that aren't long, but give an unevenly fuzzy texture. They are straight like urchin spines, though, and not just a general fuzziness. Today one of them kind of looks like it's reproducing honestly, but I don't know if that's the case. But one definitely looks like it's got a smaller little orb growing out of one side. They are a burgundy kind of dark pink/maroon kind of color, very similar to coraline algae. This description is probably as good or better than a photo as they're small, near back of tank, and my phone is old with a crap camera.
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