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Silver City Reef

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About Silver City Reef

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  • Birthday 12/10/1990

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  1. Hey Everyone! I picked up (2) AI Hydra 26HD's and am trying to figure out best mounting option. My DT is already full and running so mounting anything to the back of the stand is not an option. The two options I am considering are the DIY TV mount or the HMS Multi-Light Kit. I don't want to spend a fortune to mount these lights and I am worried the HMS setup will sit too high above the water level. Does anyone know if these can be adjusted? If anyone has any DIY mounts they want to share, I would really appreciate it. Again, I cannot mount anything to back of stand as tank is full and operational. Also, if you have done the TV mount option, I could really use some good pictures showing how its connected.
  2. Well, I'm glad to hear it's working out for you. I would still consider starting a QT if possible though, just my opinion. Keep us posted over the next month or two.
  3. How many times have you dosed Ammonia now? I'm planning on dosing mine again once my Nitrites hit 0 but it's been 8 days. I didnt test yesterday, day before it was at 0.5 so hopefully today it's down to 0. I'm just curious how many more times I will probably need to dose to get to the point you are at now.
  4. So what's the difference? What's in the ocean that's not in our aquariums that makes ocean live rock different or "better" than live rock from an aquarium? I've done a lot of research for the past few months while trying to get my tank started but I dont remember seeing or hearing this. It's crazy how depending on where you get information, you may only be getting half the information.
  5. Dr Tim's has a downloadable "Fish-Less Cycling Guide" that gives you day by day instructions on when to dose Ammonia, what to test, etc. I followed this guide exactly and it was just about spot on but I added Dr Tim's One and Only on Day 1 and had no results by day 7 or 8 when I should've been adding 3rd dose of Ammonia-chloride. I then added a bottle of Bio-Spira, enough for 30gals but my tank volume is 60g, and waited until Ammonia hit 0. Then I dosed again, waited for 0, and dosed a third time. This all matched up with the guide and by the 3rd dose Ammonia was at 0 within 24 hours. I am going to do a forth 2ppm dose of Ammonia-chloride just to be safe but waiting for my nitrates to come down below 1ppm. I'm pretty sure you wait in between dosing so you can monitor it closely and accurately. Also, I feel like maybe the Ammonia-Chloride lowers the PH and that's why you have to monitor it to make sure it stays above 8. I could be wrong but just a thought. I believe there are many ways to do things in the hobby and multiple methods that lead to success. If the end results are the same though, does it really even matter? No matter which way you choose to go there will be pros & cons. And isnt "live rock" just "dry rock" that has been in saltwater for a period of time and has built up different types of bacteria? So wouldn't ALL "dry rock" eventually be "live rock" as long as it's in saltwater that mimics the ocean; ie our aquariums?
  6. I had the money to buy live rock but chose to go with dry rock instead to avoid introducing anything unwanted into my tank and because I truly enjoy starting from scratch so things can be done the way I want them to be without any unknowns. However, I also knew when getting into the hobby that I was going to have to be patient and fortunately, I am decent at self-control. I still feel like I rushed some things, (my stand, my plumbing, my first few equipment purchases) but the one thing I don't feel I am rushing is my cycle. Adding Nitrifying bacteria and Ammonia to start the cycling process inside a tank with no other source of pre-existing life just seems like the most logical way to go about it. You need bacteria to process Ammonia into Nitrate but if there is no Ammonia, what's going to feed the bacteria and promote growth and how are you going to know if the cycle if complete when there was never any Ammonia to test? I'm still new so believe me, I dont have the best grasp on anything in the hobby. For all I know I did everything completely wrong. This is just my thoughts and personal opinion on the matter and why I chose dry rock over live rock.
  7. @Clown79 Thanks for answering Ammonia dosing question. I will stop and let system balance out and convert Nitrites. @teenyreef I actually really enjoy testing my tank and knowing how the cycle is going during the entire process. I feel like it helps me know what it needs and how it's doing before it comes time to add livestock so I can ensure all my parameters and equipment are stable and operating properly.
  8. Many new reefers want to rush into getting their tank started, why would you risk having to go fallow for 10 weeks vs setting up a QT? I understand what you are saying, but it's not worth the risk in my opinion. I'd rather take an extra 4 weeks and KNOW I'm not introducing anything unwanted. Besides, if you start QT first, by the time your main display is cycled, your fish would be ready to go. QT is probably the cheapest safety measure you can have too.
  9. Im gunna start off by saying I am still new to the hobby myself, but I have spents multiple hours everyday for the past couple weeks reading, watching, and learning about QT tanks and seeing what others are using. This is just my opinion and I will provide some sources below for more in depth information. Its definitely worth asking questions at your LFS. I asked mine during a visit to grab supplies for my QT and they basically just put fish out for sale as soon as they come in. All tanks are dosed with prazipro but you dont know how long the fish has been there. As for building a QT tank, I would say size depends on type of fish, size of fish, and quantity you plan to have in there. I went with a 20gal considering my main display is only a 40 and I dont plan on quarantining more than 2-3 fish at a time. As for contents of the QT, it is recommended that you have some form of disposable bio-filtration media like a sponge filter due to the fact that you will be dosing medications to the tank from time to time. These medications will not only be absorbed, but some cannot be mixed with others. Medications such as Cupramine, or copper, are harmful to some fish and I believe all coral, and either shouldn't or cant be mixed with medications like Prazipro. Plastic plants is a great way to create a comfortable environment without the risk of them absorbing medications, weakening doses, or causing issues when other meds are required. The reason live rock is not typically reccomend is the same absorption issues. As for previous comment, I am unsure what your LFS looks like, but even my local Petco has bare tanks with no hiding spots, plants, PVC, etc on fish tanks. My saltwater LFS has sponge filters and that's it so I dont think the fish are going to mind a tank with a couple of sponge filters and some PVC fittings. Plus, all these are easy to clean and cheap to replace. As mentioned above, I am still new but most of this information was collected from and compared to sources such as Bulk Reef Supply (Check Out Their Youtube), FishofHex (Youtube, Great Videos on QT tanks and medications), Reef2Reef forums, FB groups, Etc. I strongly recommend checking these sources out for yourself prior to making any final decisions and try to avoid a single source of information and picking the advice you want to hear. I am guilty of the second myself sometimes so I know how difficult it can be.
  10. I'm curious on how this is going so far. I assume you didn't take the time to quarentine the new fish either?
  11. I'm glad I stumbled across this forum. I was trying to figure out what I should be looking for as well. My Ammonia drops to 0 within just over 24hours but my Nitrites are still over 1ppm according to my Red Sea test kit. My main display won't see fish for another month or two due to quarentine time so I know it will be cycled by then but was curious how much longer I should be dosing Ammonia and also looking for when QT will be ready for fish.
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