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Bato367

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About Bato367

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  1. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    I wonder if my stock (brand new) Red Sea heater intermittently failed (stuck on)? http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?threads/regarding-red-sea-max-250s-heater-and.57737/ I have no experience with these heaters but apparently they suck? Can anyone recommend the best heater for my RSM 130? Are there any heaters that integrate with Apex controllers and dosing pumps etc.? What is the most reliable and accurate heater? I've noticed my tank temp fluctuates about 2 degrees from night to day...
  2. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    I started my tank this past sunday. I took my time with the aquascaping, added live Carib Sea Special Grade (which leaked out and I had to pickup from UPS; was issued a partial credit from Dr. F&S), and used cyanoacrylate to secure all the aquascaping. I let it cure 24 hours before filling with water so it is good and secure. The rocks turned out to my liking and allows for lots of corals, cover for fish and lots of holes for good flow and circulation. Tunze auto top off is working great. I have some Red Sea Reef Starter bacto coming as well as some ARC Coralline In a Bottle (pink and purple strains). This should start of the tank on the right foot. The starter kit also contains some "NoPox" which I have chosen as my method to ultimately control phosphates and nitrates. I don't want a sump with this tank and there is no room for hang on back refugiums etc. I want a low maintenance and low electricity-consuming tank and I believe NoPox will be a great solution to this. I may add a doser in the future for this so it is automated. I thought about a Santa Monica HOG1 algae scrubber but I don't have a lot of room for it and they are a little pricey. I also don't care to pull algae out of it week in and week out...Just my preference. Let me know what you all think?
  3. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    They do! I thought my heater was stuck on initially but those lights get super warm. And with no fan, that heat just sits there and is transferred directly to the water. The heater is a brand new Red Sea and today was running perfect. Temps are stable when using the cooling fan. I did buy another mercury glass thermometer. They are both reading within 1 degree of each other.
  4. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    For the analytical types I posted some of my testing results: I cannot think straight without writing stuff down and for that, Excel is my friend. My testing is for the most part, wrapped up and I've come to the conclusion why my tank heated is because the small Red Sea cooling fan at the back of the hood was not ON. It is a small fan but it removes a LOT of heat. So, if you are having tank temperature issues in the summer or anytime, create some good airflow with or without a hood! Worst case scenario for me in the dead of summer, I will open the front and rear lids and blow a small fan across the top of the aquarium. Should work just fine. I went ahead with my original order of the Nanobox Reef Retro kit LED lights. Can't wait, they should be awesome!
  5. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    Indeed. I am also leaning towards hoodless because the access to filter chamber will be easier. The original 130 hood only opens part way which is not convenient for doing anything in the chamber, hood must come off to even change carbon bag... I did buy the Tunze nano ATO system. Not sure on size of reservoir yet. I am thing 5 would be good but it has to fit inside my stand (it isn't too cramped). Tank lights have been on all day and water temp is still at 80.
  6. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    Correct. But, with the "water cooling" fan running 24/7 it is now down to 80 degrees and seems to be stable there. I didn't pull pumps yet but I believe they are fine. I think it was due to the fan not being on. Even that little 12v fan seems to make a huge difference. Red Sea support responded and said this tank will run 10 degree fahrenheit hotter than ambient room temp. So right now my house is 71, and it is running at 80.5 using my floating glass thermometer. I only have 1 thermometer at the moment. So I think that is the issue. But, I am going to run the lights all day as everything was designed and see if it stays around 80. Initially on the test startup, the heater was on. So naturally, I thought it was the heater. I disconnected heater and it was still 86-87 for 2 days. Only when I powered the cooling fan did the temp come down. The heater is brand new but I need to put it in a 5 gallon bucket and test it. The problem I am worried about is that in summer even with my evaporative house cooler, the temp inside reaches around 76-78 in mid summer. That would put my tank around 86-88 which is no good. Thus, I would still be forced to remove the hood or install a chiller (which I will not do). I don't mind going hoodless but it forces me to make a net cover, buy a filter cover (InTank Products) and buy a different light. Overall, hoodless is more money and more top off water to replace... What to do ...Trying to find a happy medium. Thank you for your insight and brainstorming. Is your tank hoodless? How much makeup water do you go through in a typical week?
  7. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    Tank test running with tap water. Initially filled it to make sure pumps worked great and to leak test it (which it passed). That’s when I discovered water temp is too high.
  8. Bato367

    Bato367's Used Red Sea Max 130 Build

    I am having an issue with my RSM 130. I bought this tank used and good condition but went ahead and installed a brand new skimmer pump and return pump upgrades from Red Sea. The issue I am having is that the tank is running empty (tap water no life or sand) and it is running consistently at 86-87 degrees F without the lights or heater! My house is 71 degrees. Thus I am in the process of seeing if there is a pump that is not running right, putting excess heat into the water or if there is some other issue? If I can't get the tank to a desirable temperature, I may have to remove the hood and run an open top which would of course require me to run the Nanobox Duo instead of the retro kit. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions? Should I pursue keeping the hood or ditch it? I went ahead and turned on the cooling fan on the back of the tank and it is currently at a stable 84. The heater has no power to it currently. When I first noticed the tank was warm, I suspected the brand new heater is malfunctioning. Doesn’t appear to be the case. Tank has brand new cooling fan, heater, pumps with upgrades, surface skimmer. Nothing else to replace. Who runs an RSM or similar 34 gallonish tank that is “open-top” can tell me about how much top off water they consume in an average day or week? Do the upsides of open outweigh the closed top? I like open tops but hate the massive evap and debris and dust that accumulated in the water over time. Evap is a big concern for me because I live where it is very arid 5-30% is the norm.
  9. So I thought I would start this thread so I could post what I have done to this tank and post photos etc. Here is my used Red Sea Max 130 that I purchased a few weeks ago. It came with some spare parts and upgrades such as a new skimmer cup and surface skimmer upgrade. I went ahead and purchased a brand new return Sicce (Red Sea) pump upgrade as well as a brand new skimmer pump. There were two Red Sea heaters in the package and I am in the process of making sure one is at least reliable. One is brand new so it should be. I also thoroughly cleaned the entire setup and have even tried polishing out some light glass scratches with some success. For lighting, the retro kit from Nanobox Reef is on order and should be here in a few weeks. I will post some pics of the install so it may help anyone considering doing an LED upgrade. The system other than lighting will remain stock just as Red Sea intended other than the LED lighting. For what I want to accomplish, a modest but nice mixed reef, there really isn't a need to go over board with systems and devices. Some of the best tanks you see are built on the "KISS" principle. It's easy to caught up in the tech game, but sometimes less is more. Can't wait to play with the Bluefish Controller. How does everyone like their Bluefish controllable LED's? I plan on having this tank for several years until I can afford and have a place for my "dream tank". I am not even sure what that is yet but something like a 120-200 gallon in-wall with an attached fish room would be a nice dream tank. Anyways, here is a pic of the tank. The previous owner must of been meticulous as it included a huge 3-ring binder of printed stat sheets of fish and coral and how-to.
  10. Bato367

    Red Sea Max Index Thread

    Awesome! Was beginning to wonder if anyone reads these posts haha. I will take some pics and document as best as I can then. Cheers, Michael
  11. Bato367

    Fish or Coral First?

    I was thinking about this subject the other day since I am planning out my new 34 gallon reef. With my first reef tank years ago, I added animals and fish with no plan other than "if they will work in my tank". For the most part it worked out, most all of my corals were doing ok but never "thriving". I had more trouble with fish. I think part of the reason was that I was always in my tank adding a new frag here, moving a coral there, acclimating new frags on and on. This was likely a lot of stress on the fish. I battled ich on a few occasions and then later on would lose a fish here and there for unknown reasons. So in my experience, with my new reef tank, I am carefully planning each step and this is how I think I will add my tank inhabitants this go around: 1. cycle tank with dry rock, live sand, corraline algae in a bottle 2. add some cleaners and feed moderately to increase bioload 3. add frags and corals slowly 4. add fish slowly Hands in the tank is only going to add stress to the fish and make them susceptible to disease. This way, once the last fish is added, my hands won't really need to be in the tank and I can sit back, monitor, feed, and enjoy. Not sure if this is the "correct way" or even if there is a "correct way" but this is my approach to my new reef anyways. I am far from a master aquarist but looking back on my first reef, I have no doubts it will go much smoother this time.
  12. Bato367

    NanoBox 2018 : Year In Review

    Congrats on your success and I wish you more in the future! After a lot of research, shopping and contemplating building my own LED light I just ordered my first NanoBox Reef light, a large Retro Kit for my Red Sea Max 130. As far as building a similar light, I couldn't build it for much cheaper than the kit, it just wasn't worth it. For what's available for my needs, the NanoBox looks to be simply the best and I am looking forward to growing my mixed reef with it for many years. 👍
  13. Bato367

    Red Sea Max Index Thread

    Picked up a used RSM 130. First reef tank in about 10 years. Will be stock besides lighting. I will be taking my time with this setup getting it "right" the first time. My first reef tank was like most peoples first reef tank: buy everything, try everything, hands in and out of it everyday adjusting this adjusting that. Not a recipe for success. I am planning this one out...
  14. Bato367

    Red Sea Max Index Thread

    Razor scraper I believe would do the trick.
  15. I picked up a nice used RSM 130 the other day. Been probably 10 years since I had a reef tank. I am looking to upgrade lighting from the stock T-5/PC's to one of these: Nanoboxreef Retro Kit ($365): https://nanobox-reef.myshopify.com/collections/nanobox-retro-kits/products/nanobox-retro-kit Steves LED's Retro Kit ($414) with the Bluefish wifi controller and "irridescence booster": https://www.stevesleds.com/Red-Sea-Max-130-130D-C130-LED-Upgrade--Plug-and-Play_p_304.html OR DIY similar systems using parts from ledsupply.com and rapidled.com. I would install apx. 26 Cree leds with a Bluefish controller and heatsink. I would use the fans that are already in the 130 hood for heat removal. Total cost would be about $325-$350 and some time soldering etc. Even considered buying an AI or Radion or similar and using the guts out of the unit to install into the mostly sealed RSM hood. Would not really be subject to direct water contact. I realize with any LED setup I will likely have to run it at maybe 40-60% since the light will not be far from the water surface. I know if I modded my hood or removed it my options would be limitless but trying my best to keep clean sleek factory look of setup. If people are interested, I could do a "build thread" of this tank... Any thoughts or suggestions?
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