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About JurisReefer

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  1. Can't speak to having both crabs. My experience is just as anecdotal as the next, but my crab is on the smaller and shyer side, so I've never had any issues to date.
  2. You might also consider some macroalgae to outcompete the GHA for nutrients. A full refugium would work best, but some chaeto in one of your media compartments could also work.
  3. Emerald crabs are a hit or miss as to whether they'll power through the algae like a lawnmower, or ignore it. They've also been known to sometimes nip on corals, but I've had some luck with one that just eats patches of GHA. That keeps him too full to go after anything else. Could be something to consider.
  4. I'm currently trying to get a zoa garden off the ground as well. I learned a lot from the zoanthid portion of this video. Starts around the 5-6 minute mark.
  5. So, I have the trifecta of algae (GHA, dyno, and the start of some bryopsis), and I don't know why. This is where I'm at. Nitrates are 0-5ppm; phosphates vary, but below 0.03 PPM RODI reading 000 TDO, unsure if silicates play into that reading from my meter. If not, unsure of silicates. A pretty decent clean-up crew. Decreased feeding frequency and quantity. The tank is a 20-gallon AIO cube. I run a bag of carbon, intank floss, and purigen in the first chamber, and a Phosban 150 with GFO, along with a protein skimmer, in the middle chamber. If anyone has any suggestions for things to consider, or products/methods to use, I'm all ears. I'm most concerned with the dynos, though. It's still in the stage of being a thin brown film on sand and coral plugs (along with the bubble and string), but I want to nip this in the bud before it takes off.
  6. Random thoughts with no organization here: I know its impossible to get the parameters of the old tank because of the very unfortunate circumstances, but they could be very different from yours (The basic parameters as well, but also the levels of Mg, Ca, etc.). That might be one reason. Also, lighting, flow, etc., might be different and depending on how long they've been in your system, might need time to adjust. Last thought based on the limited information is that it could simply be a matter of waiting for them to open up. Did you dip? I don't know the extent of the fire, but if the tank water got too hot, it might have hurt the corals. Ash/debris/fire extinguisher chemicals could have also found their way into the water and have affected the corals.
  7. The title says it all. With so many wave pumps on the market, I want to be sure I'm choosing the best one, so I turn to you guys for opinions. Tank is a Waterbox 20 Cube. The dimensions are 18x18x12(height). Not really planning on SPS, but I'd want something I can still use for sticks if I change my mind. Gyre is the most interesting to me, but I've heard they don't function well in cube tanks. Other than that, I was interestedin picking up an MP10, second-hand, but even used they're tremendously expensive for something I may not need.
  8. Ice-Cap K1 Nano is a beast IME and it is surprisingly cheap.
  9. So, I got an AIO over a cube with a sump because I was planned on having the tank on my desk. I realized I have the attention span of a goldfish, so I built a stand for it to put it somewhere else. Back when it was on my desk, the AIO was perfect. Now, it is the only downfall. The AIO sump chambers are small, so you have to get creative when you want to do a skimmer, reactor, ATO, etc. Also, trying to clean it is damn near impossible. To me, I would always suggest sump if you can, but I can see how an AIO can make more sense in some applications.
  10. Smallest I've seen is a 24-inch fixture. Has anyone seen a smaller one, maybe 12 or 18 inches? My set-up is a 20-gallon Waterbox Cube with an Ai Prime HD, which is probably alright, but I was considering upgrading to something a bit more powerful. If all else fails, I'll end up having to go with an XR-15 or something similar. I'm also welcome to hearing of DIYs if they aren't TOO complicated.
  11. I know it likely won't look like real rock, but I was wondering if anyone knew of any reef safe product that I could use to essentially make structures, such as arches, towers, etc. I was thinking something from a big box store's masonry aisle might do the trick, but before I did a deep dive into what's actually in those products, and what is truly reef safe, I thought I'd pose the question to the community. I got the idea from these frag plugs I purchased that appear to be made from some sort of ultra smooth setting cement, poured into a mold.
  12. ATO still available? Would you ship to North Bergen, NJ (07047)?
  13. If you do, just wanted to ask if you have any suggestions for keeping it a bit quieter, if yours is noisy at all. Mine is pretty loud, with a gurgling, bubbling sort of humming. I've added a rubber band below the o-ring so it'll fit a little tighter and seal a bit better. Otherwise, this thing is a work-horse. Love it, and no complaints.
  14. Not much to say about them IMO. I've seen people mount them anywhere (height wise) with success. Low to moderate flow. I've had success with hammers in lower flow, medium light placements, just slightly swaying with the current. If you plan to frag it down the line, I'd try to get a branching kind, as opposed to a wall, although those can be fragged as well. They're pretty tough, but my experience has been mixed. I have two, and one of them is a complete champ, round, puffy, all the heads are compact and together, but then I also have one who took on a lot of stress during my two-hour drive from the LFS and is just not recovering after about two weeks. Don't stress if it comes in and takes a couple of days to look good. Last point- nothing against LiveAquaria, I've never purchased anything from them, but I'd keep an eye out from coral vendors where you can see what you're getting before you buy. They usually label them as "WYSIWYG"
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