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About Fisker

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  1. We're down to just the clown. The firefish jumped yesterday, due to a stupid mistake by me. I left the lid off of the tank by accident before I left for school, and you can probably guess the result.
  2. Perhaps it's just wishful thinking, but I think the skimmer is having the desired effect. I haven't done any water testing (and likely won't take the time to this weekend), but it seems like algae growth has slowed, and that the extremely long tufts of brown hair algae has lightened in color. Caulerpa growth has noticeably slowed as well - I did still have some new hair algae growing on the front panel, but it was nothing compared to what I've been dealing with. Over the course of this week, I've skimmed 275 mL of a dark green-tea colored liquid. It's much more opaque than green tea is, but the color is pretty similar, just a few shades darker. It's got a yeasty smell to it - I assume that's probably bacteria? Regardless, I think this is a much more manageable level of wet skimming. I'm considering adding on another PAR 38, but I'm not sure how to go about it with the BTA in the tank. Would I still have to do the window screen cover for a while to let it acclimate? I'd be more or less doubling the PAR, if not a little more than that. I just want to see a bit more growth, and a different color temperature in the tank. Here's a FTS from yesterday: Maybe it's easy to see why I went through the trouble of getting a skimmer! All that algae is kinda nasty.
  3. Oops, it's this brand: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Poly-Fil-Premium-Polyester-Fiberfill-12oz/26678911
  4. I use the walmart brand polyfill. It's got nothing added, and is like $2 for a massive bag.
  5. Well, it depends on what you're needing. Bio filtration should be done by your Live Rock - so no need for sponges or any biological media in the HOB, unless you're keeping it in there for the possibility of a QT tank. Mechanical can be done by using filter floss, or by using polyfill with nothing added. Throw it in there after a WC, and take it out after a few hours. It does a great job at polishing the water, and is incredibly cheap. As for replacing carbon, a lot of people with recommend either Purigen or Chemipure Blue - they're both supposed to do the same thing as carbon, plus aid in reducing phosphates by removing waste before it decays. They seem to work, although they aren't necessary.
  6. Time for an update with this little guy. It eventually attached in a spot and hasn't moved in around 3 weeks. It's foot seems to be firmly anchored to a crevice in the rock. It attached near the sandbed, and doesn't seem to be reaching for light - although I've been told it may need more light. What do you guys thing? I could add another bulb, to see how it'd do with an upgrade. but I don't want it to freak out again, either. It's beginning to change color - from its' old mint green, to a pale red on the disc and an even paler green on the tentacles. I've read that green is often a stress color for anemones, and that they'll turn almost red-brown as they settle in and repair themselves. Is that true? It's tentacles are still awful short - I haven't attempted to feed it in a long while, but they don't seem to be getting any longer. Is it time for a feeding, or will it just take several months for a noticeable increase to happen? The disc is more of a pale red than it is in the picture. As always, the camera makes it seem much darker than it actually is.
  7. My vote is on the peppermint shrimp. Mine didn't eat any coral, but definitely picked on my hammer and BTA. I wouldn't consider them reef-safe, and based on the many stories of them munching on corals, I wouldn't be surprised. I've also heard of emerald crabs eating on soft corals, too, especially if there isn't adequate food in the tank. I'd ensure that what you have is an emerald, and not a gorilla crab or some other non-reef-safe species. I've also heard that males tend to be less reef-safe, but I'm not sure that it holds any merit. If it makes you feel better, xenia is a weed. If you can find who's been eating it, you'll probably see great growth once it settles in.
  8. Fisker

    PNW pico

    How're things going in this tank? I love coldwater tanks, and I love picos - this tank is a dream come true!
  9. In my limited experience with anemones, they know much better than we do. I received a beaten-up BTA in the mail, and added it to a tank that wasn't ready for it. It dropped off the rock it was attached to, and floated around the tank for like three weeks. I kept on moving it to spots that I thought would be great for it - I made little coves out of rocks, and spent most of my free time just worrying about it. In the end, what it needed was for me to leave it alone and let it mope around for a while. I improved my water quality and kept my hands out of the tank, and it attached pretty soon. It hasn't moved since - and while it's not thriving yet, it's doing much better. That's a long way of saying that I wouldn't be trying to move it or force-feed it. If it's in a shaded area, it has a reason for wanting to be there - even if it's just trying to hide from what pissed it off in the first place. If it's not eating, then I wouldn't force that, either. Someone else will probably know what exact advice to give to help it recover, but I wouldn't be forcing anything - I imagine them to be like 15 year-olds. The harder you push, the more they push back.
  10. Fisker

    DIY Skimmer!

    Hello! So, I've recently put together a janky skimmer for use in my 10 gallon - it's definitely ugly, but it seems to be getting the job done. I do have a few questions, though. I used a well-rinsed Powerade bottle for the body of the skimmer, and used an old gravel vac hose to connect the skimmer to the collection cup. I'm just using a cheap Whisper pump for air, along with a wooden airstone meant for use in a Biocube skimmer. I pretty much copied one of the DIY MAME skimmer designs that you see floating around. It collected over 700 mL of skimmate during the first night, and it was all the color of urine. Kinda smelled like it too. I did some adjusting, and collected nothing yesterday (I had it way too far out of the water, I guess), and today, I've collected around 75-100 mL of yellow-brown liquid. Doesn't have too much of a smell, but it's definitely darker and a bit thicker than what I collected the first night. From what I've gathered online, 75 mL of skimmate in a 12 hour period is still super wet skimming for a ten gallon, is it not? What can I do to skim a bit drier, besides lifting the bottle up farther (because then it seems to stop collecting anything at all)? I've read that some people absolutely LOVE wet skimming, and that others despise it. From what I've gathered, wet skimming removes more from the water, but at the cost of removing saltwater and requiring that you empty the collection cup more often - is that correct? If not, what exactly are the pros and cons of wet skimming? I plan to revisit this project soon, and to try and make it look nicer and more efficient. I have a pretty limited skillset (and toolset), so keep that in mind while you're suggesting - but what can I do to make this better? So far, I definitely plan to use a clear, smooth water bottle next time. Probably a Smart Water bottle, for the shape. I also plan to shorten the airline that goes to the airstone, as I'm pretty sure my airpump isn't pushing quite enough air through the airstone - not a huge problem, but I think I can improve on that pretty easily. Thoughts?
  11. I don't have a ton of experience with dedicated HOB fuges, but the larger Aquaclear HOBs make great fuges when modified a bit. There's a ton of guides on them, and it seems like it could be done in an hour or two. You could definitely fit a heater into it, and you might be able to fit an air-driven skimmer into one of the largest models as well, although I'd have to check to be sure. Have you considered just creating a false black acrylic wall in the tank? That's probably the best way to hide all of your equipment, and would make it possible to keep everything except for maybe a powerhead out of the display.
  12. Technically, yeah. You'd want to go light on bioload for a while, but you'd be introducing a complete nitrogen cycle and tons of other critters into the tank.
  13. I don't have any experience at all when it comes to pocillopora coral, but in general, I think that most inverts and corals should be fine as long as the box doesn't get too terribly cold (or too hot). With just a few hours extra in the box (which LA probably prepares the box for, just in case), I don't think you'll have any issues. I'd ask the person to sit the box in a cooler room in the house, to try and avoid cooking everything - 10 degrees too cold is better than 10 degrees too hot, and I'd be concerned that the heat packs might overheat the box if it sets in a room that's much warmer than 74 or so.
  14. Is there anything super sensitive coming? I'd say the emeralds would be fine (unless one of them died during shipping), and most hardy stuff would probably do fine as long as nothing went terribly wrong.
  15. This tank got a late night addition yesterday. I ended up with a Crown Conch, which is a predatory whelk. I thought it was a harmless conch (as it was sold to me as a Milk Conch), and I didn't catch on to it being a snail-eater until I found it eating one of my Astreas. I picked him up and dropped him into this tank, after ensuring he wouldn't pose a threat to fish, shrimp, or hermits, and I guess he'll reside here until I figure out what to do with him. He's really cool and fun to watch, and I've been told I could keep him as long as he was getting meaty foods every few days. I guess I'll see how he does in here with just whatever he can find and a spot-feeding every week or so. Yes, that is the snail he murdered - and he's going back now to slurp the shell clean, I guess.