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About Fisker

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  1. Fisker

    On The Upswing 6.6g

    Looks nice! I like the jar, too - is it one of the 3 gallon-ish ones from Walmart for like $11? So, I know you've probably heard this before, but be careful with peppermint shrimp. I got one, that I confirmed to be a peppermint, that decided to munch on my hammer and BTA. I had to remove it. I'm sure this one would be great with aiptaisia, but I'd say it'd go after any fleshy coral in the tank, too. I was also spot-feeding it, and there was no shortage of food - he was just an a$$.
  2. Fisker

    Spicy's 10 gallon

    Love it! That sand is incredible, if you can keep it looking so nice.
  3. Fisker

    Rehab Reef AIO adventure

    Looks nice! Love the clowns. This is my problem with most AIO's - most of the nice ones end up being incredibly expensive for what you get, and while it's convenient, I'd usually rather piece it together by myself and get exactly what I want. The ones that are priced a bit lower end up having lesser equipment, and most people end up replacing everything anyway - save money up-front, but pay for it over time.
  4. Fisker

    The College Student's Take on a Reef

    Well... keeping the caulerpa off the rockwork isn't much of an option now, but whatever. Live and learn 🙂 After looking around, it seems like it'd be completely possible to mount the PCBs onto a large heatsink and just run them off a driver of some sort - it's just finding the correct driver and figuring out if it'd be worth it over simply adding another bulb. I like the idea of a simple fixture with both PCBs running on one driver, but if it's gonna be a pain, I'll go the messy route. The tank is doing fine. The glass is an absolute mess (I got water on the outside, and ran a mag float over it... ugh) so I'll have to clean that up this weekend. Fish are doing well, although they're still squabbling over food. I've found that if I feed the clown floating pellets, and feed the firefish sinking foods simultaneously, they usually ignore each other. The anemone hasn't moved anymore - although it's in a shaded area. It looks like it's sorta reaching out into the light, but I'm not sure it can get all the way out. Should I CAREFULLY tilt the rock toward the light, or will it definitely move to the light source as it needs it? No complaints with the hammer or the colt. Hammer is looking amazing, and the colt has grown a few mm. I've seen the clown kinda showing interest in the hammer, but I've seen her doing the same things the anemone - it's in short bursts, and she loses interest rather quickly. Hopefully nothing gets hurt - I'm sure the hammer is far too small to be a good host, and I'm not sure the nem is ready for it yet. I'd consider covering them with something, but I can barely get my hands into the tank! She's turned into SATAN. Anytime I'm in the tank, it's constant biting in between my fingers. It's like she knows where it hurts. Ugh. It's a good thing she's pretty. Since the caulerpa has taken off, I've seen nitrates drop to below 1 PPM and phosphates drop to around 0.03 PPM - much better than 15 PPM and 0.1 PPM. There's definitely LESS algae growth (but it's still there), and the BTA stopped moving around about the time water quality improved. I even dropped back water changes to 4 liters weekly - I guess macroalgae will be my filter of choice, moving forward.
  5. Fisker

    Peppermint shrimp... jar... thing?

    Sat down to finish up a scholarship essay, and lost about 20 minutes just watching the shrimp do... shrimp things. Eating pellets, sifting through the muck on the floor, and doing a little dance. Kinda crazy how simple things can be so enjoyable, huh? I ended up not moving out that rock, since he's been pretty active and I feel like removing part of the scape would give him less crawling room, if that makes sense. I'd like to get something that looks better, but I think what I have is working. I forgot to throw in some Codium, so oops. I'll try and do that this weekend. I also need to figure out a way to get the caulerpa and the dragon's breath to stay put. I'll probably use zip ties for the dragon's breath, but I've found that caulerpa dies off when it's zip-tied. It's done it in both of my tanks. I'm sure it's already attached to the rock, but still, I'll have to figure something out to get it to fill in the rest of the rock to try and get things to fill in. As for the shrimp, at this point, I'm pretty sure the cooler water isn't having any adverse effects. It does hide some during the day, but it usually comes out around feeding time. It's got good color, and I kinda get why some people love invert-only picos so much now. There's some interesting behavior that goes on.
  6. Fisker

    60 gallon to 10 gallons

    No clue on IDs, but it doesn't look like anything harmful. Might be some type of sponge, and a harmless worm. If phosphates are reading between 1-2 PPM, that's crazy high - I've seen a couple tanks run like that, but they were extremely mature and still ran on tech from the 80's and 90's. I find that I have quite a bit of nuisance algae growing at around 0.05 PPM, and the macroalgae I'm using is just now starting to out-compete the nasty stuff. I can't imagine what I'd be dealing with at 2 PPM, so I'm interested to see what other people would say about that reading. Personally, I'd suspect that the RO/DI you're using is EXTREMELY dirty (my tap water doesn't even have .1 PPM phosphate in it...), or there's something in your tank that's causing phosphate to shoot up. Decaying organic matter would help with that, but then I'd expect to see a relatively high nitrate reading too... so, my bet is on bad RO/DI, or your rock/substrate leeching phosphate into the water. I really like this tank! It reminds me of the saltwater tanks I grew up seeing, in a good way. Simple equipment, simple stock, colorful rock, a coarse substrate, and lots of microfauna. None of the crazy lighting and coral that we have now - and though that stuff is beautiful, tanks like these have a nice charm 🙂
  7. Fisker

    The College Student's Take on a Reef

    This tank hasn't received a ton of attention this week - I even missed feedings on a couple days 😅 I've been super busy with school events and figuring out how to pay for college, so hopefully I can catch back up on Sunday when I have more time. I didn't even get to see the tank with the lights on during Tuesday or Wednesday, and here's what I've noticed. Almost all of the Caulerpa I brought in turned clear and died off. However, there's a ton of new growth spreading through out the tank - only a few areas actually have "blades", but there's runners and new leaves forming everywhere. I like! I know a lot of people hate this, but I love how it looks, and I love seeing growth. Maybe I'll curse it one day, but I'm enjoying it for now. The color kind of sucks under the blue lighting, but it's still a nice contrast to the anemone and hammer, IMO. The anemone has moved around again - this time, to the space between the left wall of the tank and the rock with the hammer. I've left it there for now, but I may move it on Sunday, as I'm not sure it can easily get out again. I'd move it now, but I won't be home to observe it. Best to leave it where things are okayish rather than mess things up when I'm not around. The colt coral (kenya tree?) that I found growing on the Caulerpa has been moved into a small medicine cup with a few pieces of rock and a frag plug to see if it'll attach. I tried to keep track of it before, but I lost it - so, I'm hoping that it'll grow enough in the cup for me to be able to place it up on the rockwork somewhere. Not my favorite coral, but it's a nice red and a freebie. No complaints with the fish. I've noticed a bit of aggression during feeding-time, but it goes both ways - the clown will nip at the firefish, and then the firefish will chase the clown off. I'm glad I got a firefish that can stand up for itself! I'm not sure that'll continue to be the case as the clown grows, but hopefully it'll be active and stay out in the open as much as it is now. They're both gorgeous fish! After a week or so with the Tuna Blue PAR 38, I can absolutely see why people love it. I personally do prefer a whiter tank, but now that my eyes have adjusted a bit, the color is nice. I think I'll implement another white bulb, or even just build a DIY replacement at some point, but this is doing well and would be perfect for a softie-only tank, or something along those lines. The intensity isn't amazing, but I think it's enough for what I'm keeping. I'd like to just take the PCB off of the bulb, and rewire it onto a separate heatsink with the 50/50 PCB, and find a way to power them both off of one driver. Not sure if that's possible - I'll have to do some digging.
  8. Fisker

    Clowning Around...

    There's one breeder that keeps the local market saturated around here - he breeds Ocellaris, True Percs, Maroons, Clarkii, and Pink Skunks. Not all at once, but he kinda rotates between various pairs and focuses in on them. Your normal False Perc will be around $15 here, and I've seen several Picasso, Onyx, and lightning Maroons for sale for between $30-40. It all depends on what the local market's like, and who's buying.
  9. Fisker

    Peppermint Shrimp in an unheated pico

    For what it's worth, we've had a successful molt. It's eating well, has good color, and is just as aggressive and annoyingly cute as it was in my main tank. Unless John has something negative to add, I think he'll be fine! No one else seems to think differently, from what I've found online.
  10. Fisker

    Peppermint shrimp... jar... thing?

    That'd make sense, especially with the macros that hail from shallower waters. I also prefer tanks a bit whiter, but after giving this tuna blue bulb about a week... I kinda like it. I wish I could get a better mix of color, but the corals and anemone seem to really be liking it, and the firefish really fluoresces under it too. Maybe I'll mix in one of the 50/50 bulbs with it at some point - or I'll just DIY a fixture and kinda get a good mix. The dragon's breath seems kind of like a toddler that keeps on bumping into the coffee table. I've noticed that it grows pretty decently, but it shades itself out pretty quickly. I've got a dead spot in the center of the macro, because I didn't think about that portion being in the corner and not receiving any light. But, I enjoy how it looks, so hopefully I'll figure out a way to get a corner filled with it. I'll probably throw in a couple pieces of Codium to see if it does any better under the planted tank lighting tomorrow. It's growing in my 10, but not super well. Maybe I'll learn some stuff with this little tank!
  11. Fisker

    Kimber's Small-ish Pieced Together Tank

    I think a macro tank with a yellow clown goby would look pretty great! Marine planted tanks are some of my favorites.
  12. Fisker

    Peppermint shrimp... jar... thing?

    So, while this thread was created on Sunday, the tank itself was set up on Friday. So there has been SOME time for things to settle in, and here's what I'm noticing: The shrimp molted. I know that can also be a sign of stress, so I'm not writing it off as a good thing - but, it survived the molt and is doing well. It's still picking at the molt right now, but I'll remove it tomorrow to avoid polluting the tank. The same Caulerpa that's growing very slowly in my 10 gallon under reef lighting has thrown out several new runners and has sprouted a few new leaves since being added to the tank. It's a brilliant green, too. I know the color is likely a product of the daylight lighting, but I can't explain the growth, other than maybe the caulerpa simply doesn't like the actinic lighting? I read that most green macros are collected from relatively shallow waters, so I guess that makes sense - I just didn't expect such a huge difference. The Dragon's Breath has gone from almost completely yellowed to the red that I love about this macro. In my main tank, it does well - lots of growth, and decent color. But it's not as pleasing to the eye as the stuff is under daylight lighting. So, have other people found that macros just don't do too well under super blue lighting? In the future, when keeping most macros, should I shoot for a more daylight light? Or, is there another variable that I'm just not thinking of? The only difference in water quality is that this stuff is a bit dirtier (nitrates are running around 20 PPM, with PO4 running around 0.1).
  13. Fisker

    Water Changes

    As long as you don't have any super sensitive inverts or corals, I think you'll be fine. You want to keep them as low as possible to avoid algae and bacteria issues, but it shouldn't directly hurt your inverts. 15 PPM isn't too high for a FOWLR tank - in a reef, some inverts and some coral (more SPS than anything) would be pretty unhappy at 15 PPM. However, most shrimp and snails won't mind it too much.
  14. Fisker

    Water Changes

    You say 15% - maybe that's a way to measure nitrates that I'm not aware of, but I think you mean 15 PPM? The problem isn't with changing water - IMO, you can change out as much water as you want as long as you replace it with water of the same SG, temperature, and PH. The small spikes in ca, mg, and alk shouldn't be a problem, unless the tank is using a LOT of those in between water changes. The problem is that when changing salts, you're changing everything in your water. Marine salts will all be similar to some degree, but the formula is usually slightly different. For that reason, I wouldn't change TOO much at one time, to allow your tank to kinda re-acclimate to the new salt. If you want to continue water changes, I'd suggest something along the lines of 10% per day for the next week or so - but that's just me.
  15. Fisker

    Clownfish and anemone hosting help!

    Maybe. Maybe not. Clowns will usually host what they want, IMO - my first pair used a colony of GSP instead of the torch I had for them. My current clown is hosting some macroalgae instead of the new BTA. The method that you're using can work, I just worry about the stress it can put on the clown and the anemone. Forcing the two together in a small container *can* result in the clown getting harmed or eaten, in some cases - I'd expect you'd have already seen that happen by now though, so I think you're okay. If the anemone isn't spitting up any zooxanthellae, and the clown is acting normally, I'd leave them in there for another 24 hours. If it hasn't happened by then, your method isn't working and you should place everything back into the tank. Usually, the clown nibbling on the anemone's tentacles, pushing it's face into the mouth of the anemone, swimming in and darting out of the tentacles, and even just sorta giving it a lot of attention are signs that the clown is considering the anemone as a host. If you're seeing that, what you're doing is working.