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pfcjackson0716

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About pfcjackson0716

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  1. Finishing touches added: base rock, second clown named “tank”, and ato set up. Still need the media rack when funds allow, but now it’s time to sit back and let things be.
  2. Simplified my setup and no longer need these two. Both used for less than 6 months and in excellent condition (little coralline growth on the powerhead but the ato reservoir looks new). $50 each. Located in Fort Myers, FL. Can ship powerhead.
  3. Couldn’t sleep; cords needed organizing, and rock needed moving. This thing’s practically held together with Velcro at this point. Plan is to pickup some prime, and break my previous rule with a media basket and purity pack to see just how clear we can get this water. Might just break yet another rule as well, and grab a juvenile clown too. Definitely getting more rock though; it looks straight barren at the moment.
  4. Apparently 3/16” rigid doesn’t fit into 1/4” id vinyl, so I ordered some 6x10mm tubing and plastic hose clamps off Amazon 😬
  5. Advice would be to go light on the bioload, and as aforementioned, forego the skimmer. I think the water level is fine without the surface skimmer personally, and stock it seems to keep the surface free and clear of oil/scum.
  6. So, the move did not go as smoothly as predicted, and the fish and rock had an extended stay at the local fish store (shout out to Boardroom Aquatics in fort Myers for being patient with me, and always steering me in the right direction). The princess (girlfriend) didn’t like the barebottom look with the reefrack, so we opted for sand and ironically ended up purchasing the same green star polyp/mushroom/cabbage that I sold them a few weeks earlier, for only a very mild premium over what they gave me for it (I went in totally expecting to pay out what it was worth). Not to mention, they watched our clown, Sushi, and our skunk cleaner, Jay, for free, and kept them healthy and well fed. I wanted a simplistic design this time, after having controllers mounted externally beforehand, and having the auto top off reservoir on the outside. I still have yet to purchase the section of 3/16” rigid tubing to finish off the ato, but I plan on simply using gallon jugs of distilled water from Publix or Walmart for my water source, as nothing over a gallon will really fit into this tiny stand. I could also purchase slim gallon hdpe containers, and possibly even fit two in there, if anyone has any reasons why not to use the store bought water? If not, then that seems like the most convenient option. My ocd was strong this time, and I was happy to find the floor perfectly level, and placed the tank square in the middle of the tiles (as this was an issue in the past). At 4” from the wall I have great access to everything and it still doesn’t look like an island. In order to fit everything in the stand I used an enormous amount of Velcro tape, and did away with all zip ties with the expecting of some tiny 4” ones on the light to secure the power cord and link cable. Notice, I went with the super slick 90 degree link cable (I have no idea why this isn’t standard equipment as it’s way more aesthetically appealing). As I was saying, instead of zip ties on cords, I used Velcro fasteners. The stand still has the bottom panel modded as a wall in the rear of the stand, with the ato controller and pump attached, but I moved it down to accommodate two surge protector/power strips. The left controls the lights and heater, while the right the main pump and ato (and possibly Wavemaker down the road if needed). I did this so with a flip of a switch I’m good to do water changes. For now, I’m really liking the looks of a clean, open tank, with no Wavemaker, and the additional cord running over the back compartments. I still only plan to keep softies and some lps, so hopefully the mightyjet cranked up all the way will suffice (I managed to point the stock outlet towards the left front corner, and the way in which it diffuses doesn’t displace sand like before. I remember someone on here in the past asked about the mightyjet, and the sandstorm issues I was experiencing were because of the spinstream, which was loud and bulky anyway, so it got the axe). All in all, I achieved what I wanted; as minimalistic as it can be, while still being as maintenance free as possible, without a controller. I can keep the simple corals me and the girlfriend enjoy, and keep our two residents happy. Also, since everyone wants to know “what’s in the back”, I ditched the loud ghost skimmer and the media rack; there’s going to be nothing but biological filtration for the foreseeable future, as that’s all I’ve pretty much ever run, with the addition of a skimmer on only a couple of many past builds. I firmly believe water changes are all you need, with a light bioload, to succeed with these tiny tanks. That said, I haven’t always been diligent, and over the course of five neglectful months, with zero water changes, and an ever creeping salinity and nitrate, that the ghost desktop only pulled out maybe a cup or so of tea colored skimmate. Plus, Sushi is a real b*tch and doesn’t like other fish as we’ve found out in the past, so the bioload will remain minimal. Go bacteria! Oh, and I threw in an 8oz bottle of Fritz Zyme 9 for sh*ts and gigs. I can hardly contain my excitement, as one could tell, but that’s the end of my rant, and here’s the pics:
  7. Keeping tank and parting out some things
  8. Have receipts for over $1k in stuff all lightly used and nib tank (took out of box and mounted light for pic) too much to list but innovative marine ato reservoir, ato unit, a80 and controller, hydrofill pump, wave link powerhead, reefrack and media basket with .5l seachem matrix and more. Decided to go bigger. Looking to get $500 obo located in fort Myers Florida previous tank in one pic. One included here is new in box
  9. Hey, I’ve scoured the internet and this forum for pics or information regarding this, but can’t seem to find anything concrete. Will the fuge basket in the second chamber work alongside a kessil a80 mounted in the middle of the back panel (directly over this chamber)? I’m looking to run a frag style tank bb with an acrylic rack and want to load this basket up with matrix bio media. Thanks!
  10. So, at the advice of my lfs I picked up a 500ml container of matrix and a bag. I found the thread on here of the tank that gave me the idea behind this one, and coincidentally he was also running matrix, but was using three times as much (1L in the tank in a basket and the rest in the first chamber). This leads me to believe I will need more. I’m only planning on keeping the clown and shrimp, but I have no way of quantifying the surface area of the rock and sand I had when the tank was previously set up. I don’t want any in the display, and I’ve already come to terms with the fact that I won’t have the need or room for a skimmer. So, should I just return the 500ml container and pick up the 2L size and another bag, and fill the back two compartments?
  11. Just took down my nuvo 10 run with shallow sb and lr with low bioload (one small ocellaris and skunk cleaner) and I’m planning on trying something new when I set it back up. I saw a pic on the net of a 10 run bb with a reefrack (acrylic frag rack) and nothing else in the display. It looked pretty slick, so I purchased one and until now didn’t think about the lack of surface area for bacteria. I will be running a NuvoSkim dc once the cycle is complete, and dosing fritz 9 in the beginning, but will there be enough places for the bacteria to adhere to sufficiently support my clown and shrimp? I’ve owned quite a few tanks thus far but never done a bb, and I’ve always kept it simple; no carbon, or mechanical filtration aside from a skimmer. I plan to run this one the same and saw that there is such a thing as ceramic bio filter media, but I’d assume putting it in the back would lead to a build up of detritus and I read that the media can eventually become exhausted. Is this true? Why is it that live rock does not experience this? I dabbled with the idea of a 1” sheet of the ceramic media on the bottom of the tank, as it would see sufficient flow to keep it clean. Thoughts?
  12. By the time you buy the 20 gallon long, wavemakers, and hob refugium, you’ll be out as much as you would if you bought the equivalent size aio, like say a nuvo. You’d get the clean rimless look, surface skimming (which I can say from experience with many past rimmed glass tanks running hob’s is a big deal if you’re as ocd as me, and despise surface scum), and if you added a dc pump with controller, like say the mightyjet line, it would look much better concealed within the back compartment vs having two power heads in the tank. This would give you more than enough flow for the corals you plan on keeping, while retaining the same controllability. You wouldn’t have the refugium, but I as well as many other reefers have had great success without them, especially with easy corals like shrooms and gsp. As far as lights, you’ll need a strip light like the ic, or two pucks (think a80’s or primes if you wanna go wild). There’s really nothing else at the price point of the ic non controllable, but if it were me, I’d look in the classifieds on here for used options that would allow for you to grow more light intense corals down the road. The price difference there could be made up by simply ditching an rodi unit and buying water from your lfs. I have a 5 gallon reservoir on my nuvo 10 with an a80 and tons of surface agitation and I replace it weekly. I don’t think you’d have enough evaporation to warrant buying an entire unit. You’d need to build another stand or modify the one you have to fit the new dimensions, or you could take advantage of the open aps stands on clearance rn for $175. If you’re neat about cords and equipment down there then it looks really slick. Ato is up to you, but I’ve had great luck with the smartato and im hydrofil. You can research for 8-10 months, but honestly the stuff you want to keep is really hard to kill, and between the help on this forum and advice from a solid lfs, I’d say you are good to go whenever finances allow. There’s a million ways to run a successful nanoreef, but I’d like to think I’ve given you the most aesthetically pleasing option to fit your budget. Just my two cents
  13. So, as it turns out the new place is smaller and won’t allow for anything bigger than what I’ve already got. Sold the tank to save time cleaning it out, and bought a new one for $20 more haha. Using the reefrack this time around, barebottom, with the new NuvoSkim dc skimmer after the cycle is complete. Plan to stock some more advanced stuff and get the clown a bubble tip to call home.
  14. Designed to fit a nuvo 20 aquarium perfectly. 42” tall. Unused and has been gathering dust. The doors alone were $108 a piece. 3/4” maple ply all around with 1/2” back and two shelves with adjustable pegs. Three coats of Mohawk crystal clear. Building supplies and hardware ran me over $300 so a steal at $200. Fort Myers Florida area.
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