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MrObscura

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Everything posted by MrObscura

  1. One thing I can tell you is... I'd be careful with 0 no3/po4.
  2. What are your no3 and po4 readings? Anyway, usually elevated nutrients are blamed or cyano but I had them when mine got low, and then hey bottomed out resulting in dinos. So, be careful. As long as nutrients aren't cray high it might be best to try and ride out the cyano, especially if it's a young tank without much biodiversity.
  3. They eat aiptasia, so it's only natural that they could turn to desirable corals as well.
  4. If I place my vile half on/half off the .03 reading my waters crystal clear and there's no hint of blue whatsoever.
  5. I'm using salifert as well. I'm battling dinos, I believe a result from bottoming out no3 and po4. I've got no3 up but can't get a po4 reading.
  6. I've just been feeding more at this point. I'd like to get there by doing that, that way I can maintain them easily without having to dose anything. But I'll look into it, thanks.
  7. I don't gave one for sale but I can offer some feed back since I have one. I like it, offers good flow, controlability and its quiet. I got it with the plan of it being the only source of flow in my nuvo 10, and it worked well with just softies and Lps. But I wanted more flow for my sps. Plus, as long as corals can handle it I'm in the can't have too much flow camp.
  8. I've still just been feeding more and letting the glass get dirty, while running a shorter photo period, and it seems to be having an effect. Dinos aren't covering my corals as much and when I clean them off it takes longer for dinos to return. I think I'm going to keep this up until I get a po4 reading above 0 and then maybe do a black out to knock them out completly. That way once the lights come back on there will be enough nutrients to let other things take hold first.
  9. Yea, I went dry rock for the sole purpose of avoiding pests, but that didn't work.
  10. My clowns came from 1.019 and went right into my tank at 1.025. Now, if I had a large tank that I added fish to regularly(the 2 clowns added to my tank at the start are the only fish I'll have) I'd be more worried about what they could introduce to my DT than anything, so I'd definitly have a quarantine. And would probly run it at lfs fish level salinity most of the time bringing it up to DT salinity over the course of the quarantine.
  11. I'm battling them right now. I think it was caused by bottoming out no3 and no4 so to start I've gone bare bottom, just fof future convince, and pulled chemipure, while upping feedings. I'm going to run dirty and simple going foward and see what happens, just filter floss and skimmer. I'll try a blackout next and poroxide if need be.
  12. Speaking of clowns, I spent all night making my tank bare bottom and my female clown wasn't happy. She pecks at me all the time, but it doesn't hurt. This time she was pissed, it actually hurt.
  13. I was using non powdered nitrile, but keep forgetting to order more so I've just been doing things without gloves. Might just not bother with them going foward.
  14. That's exactly why they shouldn't be dripped but dumped right in instead. Unless the temp is drastically different, though it shouldn't be with proper packing/shipping, then float at most. Theres no evidence whatsoever that acclimation does any good, but there are indisputable facts proving that it can do harm.
  15. Some observations... it's only been a couple days since I stopped running chemi blue, and I've upped feeding in that time, and I have more algae on my glass than I ever have, meaning I think the dinos might be getting some competition. And despite the dinos a number of corals are showing more color and PE than they have in a long time. I'm thinkng my problem was too clean of a tank. Despite no chemical filtration and upped feedings I still have 0 po4. I think from this point foward I'm going to take a dirty kiss approach. Filter floss and skimmer while keeping no3 below 25ppm and po4 below 0.1 and that's it. Next up is removing the sand bed and getting the po4 up to create more comp for the dinos, and then a blackout if need be.
  16. And discushans, the US distributor of stendkar discus(one of the world's top) discus breeders) advocates the drop and plop method as well. And fish don't come much more sensitive than discus.
  17. Usually, I'd say there's no one way to do things, but in this case I feel strongly since animals are being done more harm than good. Freshwater, but still applies...
  18. Don't acclimate, just dip with coral rx and in they go.
  19. As far as I'm concerned not only is acclimation pointless. It can do more harm and just stress the animals out more. There's plenty of evidence backing up the case against it, and most major, importers, breeders, etc. are against acclimation.
  20. Don't have a microscope, or poroxide, on hand, so I did the filter test, taking some of the algae with water, shaking it up and straining it through a paper towel. It regrouped, meaning it's likely dinos. The plan of attack for now is pulled chemipure, run blue and uv only, get the sand bed out, and try to rise po4(which is still at 0), by feeding more. Once I get the sand bed out(had to order a new siphon) I'll probably do another water change, and try a 3 day black out. Depending on how that goes I'll then try either adding a bunch og phytoplankton and pods and/or dose poroxide if need be. On a bright note, the Dinos I have don't appear to be toxic as snails and fish are fine. Knock on wood.
  21. Yea, I figured it was a mix. And yea, they lessen at night.
  22. Ok, it's going on a week since the chemiclean and the stuff is back to about the same level as it was. And with going back to my old routine no3 has raised from o to a steady 10 or so, while po4 is remaining at 0. Something must have been consuming no3 and now it's leaching because with my feeding schedule and WC routine I don't see how it's at 10 steady regardless of when I test, whether right after a wc or right before. This, plus some comments by others, as well as more research leads me believe that what's left might be dinos. I'm going to have to test to find out for sure, but a few steps I'm going to take regardless at this point is remove all red and green lighting(since it seems at its worse during the full spectrum period), and remove the rest of the sand. And if it is in fact dinos I'll remove the chemi blue to see if I get a raise in po4. Which I might try anyway. Might also switch to carbon only after that depending on results.
  23. I'm using it because my tanks only consuming about .2dkh a day and 2 part would be over complicating things. It's stable imo, with no more than a .2 or .3 deviation within 24 hours. And usually not even that. Its cheap, simple and effective so I'll probably stick with it until kalk can't keep up with demand. Which is still a ways away for me obviously.
  24. You probably shouldn't be putting open swimmers in a nano anyway. Any fish suited for 10g period, will be just fine with the space offered by a cube.
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