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About MrObscura

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  1. The stopper should be tight as can be in the tube and when you first start out with the valve closed completely you should get nothing. Then as you open it slowly you should get bubbles. stop as soon as you get larger bubbles, sand back it up slowly until they dissappear. If that's what you did and still have issues... Idk.
  2. What pump are you using? I'm using a tetra 20. Also if all you get is large bubbles that sounds like too much air. Perhaps something's wrong with the valve?
  3. How did you tune it? I started by closing the air valve all the way and then opening it slowly until you get a few large bubbles mixed in with the tiny ones, then back it up just enough to get rid of the large bubbles. After that don't touch the air again. Start with the stopper about 3-4 inches above the water line and let it skim for a day or so and adjust from there depending on how much skimmate your getting. Mines about 5-6 inches above the surface. As it skims foam will build up and flow to the top, but the bubbles are nowhere near the top. It would skin far to wet then.
  4. I have a reef glass and while it's a little expensive for what it is, I went with it because it's small and more efficient than most skimmers that'll fit in an aio. I get good foam production and a nice dark tea colored skimmate. In fact in may be doing to good a job while I try to get po4 up. Oh, and If you're more of handy type and a diy-er you could make one for a lot less.
  5. What are your no3 and po4 readings? Anyway, usually elevated nutrients are blamed or cyano but I had them when mine got low, and then hey bottomed out resulting in dinos. So, be careful. As long as nutrients aren't cray high it might be best to try and ride out the cyano, especially if it's a young tank without much biodiversity.
  6. They eat aiptasia, so it's only natural that they could turn to desirable corals as well.
  7. If I place my vile half on/half off the .03 reading my waters crystal clear and there's no hint of blue whatsoever.
  8. I'm using salifert as well. I'm battling dinos, I believe a result from bottoming out no3 and po4. I've got no3 up but can't get a po4 reading.
  9. I've just been feeding more at this point. I'd like to get there by doing that, that way I can maintain them easily without having to dose anything. But I'll look into it, thanks.
  10. I don't gave one for sale but I can offer some feed back since I have one. I like it, offers good flow, controlability and its quiet. I got it with the plan of it being the only source of flow in my nuvo 10, and it worked well with just softies and Lps. But I wanted more flow for my sps. Plus, as long as corals can handle it I'm in the can't have too much flow camp.
  11. I've still just been feeding more and letting the glass get dirty, while running a shorter photo period, and it seems to be having an effect. Dinos aren't covering my corals as much and when I clean them off it takes longer for dinos to return. I think I'm going to keep this up until I get a po4 reading above 0 and then maybe do a black out to knock them out completly. That way once the lights come back on there will be enough nutrients to let other things take hold first.
  12. Yea, I went dry rock for the sole purpose of avoiding pests, but that didn't work.
  13. My clowns came from 1.019 and went right into my tank at 1.025. Now, if I had a large tank that I added fish to regularly(the 2 clowns added to my tank at the start are the only fish I'll have) I'd be more worried about what they could introduce to my DT than anything, so I'd definitly have a quarantine. And would probly run it at lfs fish level salinity most of the time bringing it up to DT salinity over the course of the quarantine.