Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Floundering_Around

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday June 12

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Fishkeeping, horticulture, painting
  1. Try smaller, more frequent water changes; instead of one a week bump it up to two? If that doesn't work, start dosing? I personally use kent's nano two part
  2. Generally, my livestock has been in the bag for barely an hour. But I went to reefapalooza and they were in the bag for days. When I opened the bag, I immediately added ammo lock to detoxify the ammonia, then 'dripped' them since the salinity was way off, fish and coral got dipped (this dip can work on fish, I got it as a sample), then fish went into QT (bucket method for me). The same thing happened for my tailspot blenny when I got him from an LFS; the shock from would have been too much IMO as the LFS keeps their tanks at 1.020 and mine is at 1.025 When I 'drip' acclimate them, I use a turkey baster to add water from my tank to the bag/bin they're in. I try to add enough to completely replace the water at least one time. I do this over a couple of hours. Fish are completely calm as I keep the container dark while I'm doing this. They have full coloration, normal swimming, normal breathing, etc. They usually get fed and accept food the next day. I try to get food in them before I start any meds. Freshwater is the same thing but doesn't take as long and I don't QT my fw fish (probably should).
  3. they look like sarcophytan to me. Care is pretty much the same regardless
  4. on second look, they could be mushrooms. Edges look less defined than a zoanthids would be. Care requirements are pretty much the same anyways
  5. those look like zoanthids attached to the base of the xenia. don't know if they'll make it given how aggressively xenia spreads
  6. you can't glue leathers down; they produce a slime when agitated and will just slide right off. You have to sew it down with a needle and thread (sew right through the frag) or use a rubber band to hold it onto the rock. If you use a rubber band, you have to be careful that it's not too tight or you'll cut right through it and have multiple pieces floating around your tank
  7. hard to tell but it looks like a zoanthid polyp. Could be a baby rfa but I can't see with this photo
  8. Leather corals generally take days to open up once moved or disturbed. Find a spot and leave it there for a few days to a week. It should be fine and will come out once it stops pouting
  9. you have to siphon the algae out; you can use a turkey baster if you don't want to do a full water change. A water change never hurts anything no point in adding any media to such a new tank. A CUC won't help anything right now as you have cyano (which they won't eat) and nothing else so you'll have to supplement them with food and will just make more of a mess. Wait it out and do water changes to physically remove the cyano
  10. a water change, get as much of that cyano out as possible. Don't get a conch, tank is too small and too new. Get better husbandry first
  11. look like little limpets. do they have a shell?
  12. my strips are gcfi adapted, surged protected and grounded, as well as have a lifetime warranty (i got them at bed bath and beyond. they have movable outlets so I don't have to stretch my cords in weird ways). just had one of them fault when water got on it; heard some pooping and clicking before the whole thing shut off, saving my equipment. I replaced it with one from home depot (needed to get my equipment running and didn't have time to go to BBB or wait for a replacement); the one from HD is made for home electronics systems and has a lifetime warranty, twelve outlets, surge protected and grounded, as well as a guarantee to replace any equipment damaged by the strip if it fails. space, unfortunately, limits me from mounting mine out of the way
  13. if the peppermints are constantly in the tank, then you'll never see aptasia cause they'll get to it before you notice. It's when you remove the pepps that you'll notice, even then it'll take months.
  14. you tell me. If you didn't think it was worth it, I'm assuming you would have gone with dry rock that was probably cheaper. Plus, I like peppermints (I do not like when they eat my RFAs and pick food out of my corals' mouths but other than that they're reef safe)
  15. I'm not sure what you're planning on getting as a CUC. Your issue is diatoms and nothing really eats that. If you have food that's not being eaten by your fish, hermits will do well to clean that up (you'll have to provide extra shells for them to molt) or snails. Snails will help keep your glass clean of algae but you'll still need a scraper to get off the coralline and excess algae. Unless you plan to return or sell the fluval light you just bought, I wouldn't focus on the light. Get your water under control by upping your husbandry. I have the fluval evo AIO tank with the stock light and my corals are doing great so the light you have should be fine for that tank (won't get insane growth, especially with trash water).