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About ReefGoat

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    Jeeps, Reefing, Reggae music, Scuba diving, Video gaming. Petrochemical piping designer by trade.
  1. My stunner looks EXACTLY like this ^ . Plus when the sweeper tentacles are out they are really long. Not short like that one shown in the picture. That the OP posted
  2. No secret just clumsy and glad it didn't spill into tank or sump. Just the floors lol
  3. Because I spilled the seachem and just tried something different lol. No real reason
  4. Now I am using MEcorals Nitrate and the Seachem Phosphorus to keep the levels where I want them.
  5. My apologies. That's actually the one I used. I apologize for not being more clear.
  6. My nutrients bottomed out to all zeros when the tank was 3 months old and the dinos reared their ugly head, confirmed with microscope. I beat them from a multi pronged attack and it took about 5-6 weeks altogether. It consisted of a 4 day blackout, raising nitrate and phosphates slowly until they were registering with sea chem flourish (Seachem Flourish Nitrogen and Phosphorus), changing floss daily and blowing dinos off with turkey baster, stopped water changes and stopped skimming, lowered lighting intensity, and the final nail in the coffin was 1ml per 10 gallons of water hydrogen peroxide for 7 days. I now feed my fish twice daily and only do water changes every 2 weeks. Still don't skim and dose just a tad of nitrate and phosphate after every water change. My corals took a beating during the fight though so be warned, major loss of color and two coral deaths (Jedi mind trick and one acro) my tank was and still is too new for acro anyways though so that probably had something to do with it as well. EDIT: I know that the Hydrogen Peroxide debate can be a heated one. From other threads and forums I scoured while searching for "the cure". I don't know what other people's experiences are and I am just speaking from mine. For me it was when I saw the best results of the fight. I think it wasn't just that though, I am positive that it was a combination of everything.
  7. Got th I snipped that from reef cleaners website. It looks very similar.
  8. That's a good thing. You should be OK then if what you say is true.
  9. Dry rock and sand or live rock? Idc what that video says. You added fish too fast in my personal opinion. Especially if you used dry rock and sand. Your tank needs to be able to process 2ppm of ammonia in 24 hours before it's ready to add livestock. I would bet money your tank can't process 2ppm in 24 hours yet. You're basically just cycling with fish which is highly frowned upon by most in the hobby.
  10. I could be wrong but that's not dosing chemicals.......you're simply adding the nutrients themselves without having to load your tank down with overfeeding to try and get your nutrients up. Adding a chemical to me would be like. Chemiclean for Cyano and ReefFlux for bryopsis and things of that nature.
  11. 1. How do I eradicate ICH from my tank? Go fishless for 10-12 weeks with water changes? Let the tank go fallow for 8 weeks. Inverts are fine to leave in the tank but no fish. Take care of the tank as you would normally. 2. How do I prevent ICH from entering my tank again. I know fish have ICH but how I do I keep it from getting in my tank once I get new fish? Quarantine tank is the only guaranteed way. Quarantine fish for 4-5 weeks before adding to DT.
  12. I buy my liquid Nitrate and phosphate off of amazon. I use Seachem for the phosphate and ME Corals pharmaceutical grade Nitrate. The reefers that run Ultra Low Nutrient Systems that produce BEAUTIFUL corals successfully are very experienced and a lot of know how go into those tanks. Be careful when dosing these things to raise nutrients and monitor your levels closely. It can go sky high quickly.
  13. Well that program looks familiar LOL. I use that program for 70 hours a week! Well actually I use Cadworx, it's just a 3d add on for AutoCad
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