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Oklahoma reef

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  1. All visible ich is gone and blue tang is back in the DT. Selling the sailfin tomorrow.. yeah ear I guess transferring tanks was so stressful it killed the ich...
  2. ill contact the LFS tomorrow and see if he will work with me. What should i do if he tries to give me a hard time and tell me i bought it knowing my tank size ? try to sell him on the local reef facebook page? got him for 50$ Drews reef http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25540737 https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/whots-this-tang-and-fish-less-prone-to-ich.519555/#post-5445608 if you look into the comments there a guy with a hippo tang in a 25 gallon I dont disagree that they need more room, however i do believe it is feasable to keep a hippo in a 25 until it gets an inch and a half or more. this was not a long term plan.
  3. Drew is one person, there are many others. I knew when i posted this that the tang police where comming, however im looking for ich solutions, not input on wether the fish should be in the tank or not. There are plenty of people who have sucsessfully kept hippos in 20 and 25 gallon tanks. hippo is less than an inch and the sailfin is about an inch. who said anything about a starfish?
  4. Not only do his corals pop but he has had a hippo tang for over a year and a half without ever seeming to have ich.....
  5. The sailfin tang had ich when it was added over 4 months ago but he no longer shows signs of ich. so yes the tank already has ich. As for the size of the tank needed many famous reefers have tanks of similar size with hippos in them that are even larger than mine. People such as drew, know for his tank " Drews lagoon" has a hippo much larger than mine in the exact same tank. i dont plan on keeping the hippo for more than a year, Same with the sailfin. Only reason i put him in hypo was to try and take away/ reduce the ich he has. I know he will get ich again once put in the DT. I also just picked up a 20x20x18 acrylic tank for free so i may go ahead and move all the fish to there and let the DT go fallow. Any suggestions on copper vs hypo for treating all the fish once they go into Quarintine? All the fish in the tank are juvinile and very small. I have done a fair ammount of reaserch on ich, the lifecycle, and treatment options.
  6. rose urchin is still alive and well 🙂 nothing elde in my tank has died besides a yellow clown goby that was already sick when i got him. tanks been running for over a year without a single algea or cyano outbreak. if you need help let me know 🙂
  7. I got a baby blue hippo tang that is about an inch long from an LFS 3 days ago. The guy said he had been there for 4 weeks and has always had ICH but he always eats just fine, I even watched him in store. I got home and he was fine in my tank for one day. Then I set up a quarantine for hypo salinity ( heater and HOB with a pump inside to mix water and a plastic container for him to hide in. This is the 24 hour mark after a 1 hour acclimation and it seems like he has gotten rid of 30% of the ich that was on him but there are a few new white spots. Only problem is now he won't really eat frozen mixed food with garlic added. he will eat but only a few small pieces. He use to eat a lot and how he only ate 2 or 3 pieces that floated right around his mouth. I just started adding 1 ML of paragaurd slowly until I read the 5 ML recommended. Should I remove him tomorrow if he won't eat? In my mind hypo will only work if he still eats. Maybe seeing other fish eats gets him onto it? Maybe its the competition? what should I do? all of the following are juvenile except the harlequin. 1snowflake clown 1sail fin tang 1red fire fish 1tailspot blenny 1blue spotted yellow watchman 1peppermint shrimp 1cleaner shrimp regular tank is a 25 lagoon with 4 t5 lights salinity 1.025 low nitrates low phosphates don't know PH little to no ammonia 5-7 gallon water change every week. I have metro+ by hikari and seachem paragaurd TL;DR Treated ich hippo tang with hypo salinity but won't eat now.
  8. I used the needle to kill the first one however the other two where bigger and broke the tip of my needle. Ended up bendin my dental pick too, those calcium shells they make are pretty tough!. I basically inserted the pick into their already made hole and yanked it around the inside to make a snail smoothie for my shrimp.
  9. After discovering a few things siprorbis on a here’s what happened. 1: I irritated both with a needle. 2: after irritation nassarius and cleaner shrimp where all over the snail 3: repeated for 4 days 4: cleaner shrimp and nassarius snail stayed in the area attempting to eat the snails for days. Snail even burrowed right next to it. 5: last one was killed in the final day and eaten by cleaner shrimp then cleaned by nassarius. I used a dental pic, after the first day I realized that they could easily defend against a needle.
  10. Thanks for all the replies. I think I’m going to remove one filter sock completely and see how it goes will just the media rack ( filter floss and chemipure blue). I think the filter sock is has hit its age....
  11. I am getting a little frustrated with my 25 lagoon. Below are pictures of the current water level. Water level is too high and wont skim surface protein. When i lower the water level the compartment in the back where the pump is housed drops below all others to the point where it starves the motor of water. Either my water level is too high and the overflows do little to nothing, or i lower the level and burn out my pump. the pump is the one that came with the tank. Also i plan on using the level in the middle compartment for my ATO sensor. I am aware that the central compartment in the AIO is the first to drain. However it drains so quickly i cant use the overflow correctly. The "sweet spot" where the central compartment either level with all other compartments or drains below all compartments is about half way above the entire height of the overflow \
  12. UPDATE- today I came home from work and the YCB was deceased and being feasted on my a snail. Sad to see the little guy go. He was cute while he lasted but a lesson was definitely learned to be more careful when purchasing livestock.
  13. After giving a 1 hour Paraguard dip he seemed fine. Acted fine in the dip. Went to the bottom of the tank for a couple mins then got up and started swimming. Woke up this morning and he is sleeping in his usual corner of the tank and I have watched my clown fish swim into him and he does not react. Is he on his way out? Should I dip again ?
  14. I recently purchased a yellow clown goby from my LFS. There where 3 YCB in that tank and one of them was already peelling its color however i got one that had asmall ammount ofpeeling. After having the YCB for about 12 days it slowly started to get better and then about three days ago he started going down hill. after getting home from a comedy show tonight i see that he lost nearly 90% of his color in a 48 hour period. He has eaten once a day every day ( except one day when i did not feed). I feed a generous portion of PE mysis and V2o soft freeze zooplankton and remove the excess after about five mins. It appears that he eats about half a shrimp to a whole shrimp everyday and a few bites of the zoo food. I also feed seaweed every 3-4 days. what can i do to help him? After talking to some folks on the forum and speaking to my LFS we have come to the conclusion that its time for a medicated dip. after picking up some paragaurd im a little confused on the usage. While my LFS reccomended the dipping option, it says on the lable that the dip does nothing if the fish goes back into infected waters. will introducing the fish back into the tank void the dip? is it possible that the dip will still be usefull? after setting up a dip tank my little goby knows something is up and has decided to hide deep in some rock in the back of the tank... i will try feeding to get him out to scoop him up. If i cant get him out would it be okay to dose my tank with the paragaurd? instructions say 5 ML per 10 gallon. After doing some reading it seems that if i start off with a dose of 5ML for the whole tank i could get away with not removing my shrimp. Any suggestions? 20G long 4 bulb aquatic life t5- 4 different spectrum bulbs RW-4 wake maker 2 Topfin 20 gallon rated HOB filters( one filled with chemipure elite, The other filter floss) 1-100w 1-200 w heaters 8 Hermit crabs ( red and blue leg) 1 trochus snails, 2 nessarius snails 2 marg snails 1 osc clown( juvenile) 1 blue spotted yellow watchman goby 1 scooter Blenny 1 cleaner shrimp 1 rose pink sea urchin 1 yellow clown goby A bunch of Xenia, GSP and zoa frags 1 superman montipora tempature 78-80f salinty 1.24-1.26 ( tank swings every day due to daily top offs needed) Nitrates 5ppm or less phosphates .25 ppm or less calcium 400 DKH- 12 . ----- link to original post with pictures.
  15. UPDATE: after looking into the tank a few mins ago I see that he has gained back about 25-30% of his color in a 12 hour period. I wonder what happened.... could it be possible that he was attacked by another fish and therefor got very stressed out? Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I still think I’m Gunna go buy some new food. If anyone has suggestions I’m open!
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