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A Little Blue

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About A Little Blue

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    Nano Reefer

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  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    Reef, Moto-Sports, Audio
  1. Dry fit of 35 gallon salt water storage. Upper shelf will be moved below. Tank will seat on top of it. Small 4 stage RODI with sediment prefilter. Thought about permanent install but I’ll probably use it as a portable unit feeding of the shower head adapter or something of that nature. We will see.
  2. Red Dragon at its new location. A story of 2 tanks & tricks it took to safe this guy (at least for time being). This nice frag started bleaching (STN) almost on day 1 after arrival. Trying to figure out what happened & what might be the cause, lead to this findings : 1. Stress from transport, temp shock, dipping procedure, cuting and replanting to new frag plug. Did all this attribute to added stress? Absolutely, but was it enough to caused immediate STN? Maybe, but I thing there is more to this story. 2. Tell of two tanks. My buddy's tank is about 250gal SPS dominated beauty, lit by “old fashion” T5s and nothing else. He runs his Alk between 8-8.5DKH, so we are not too far apart. Due to some previously mentioned Alk drop in my tank caused by calibrating/fine tuning new dosing pumps, my Alk at the moment is between 7.5-8.0. So Alk is not a suspect IMO. So what happened? Here is my break down (it’s a complete BS analogy but stay with me, it makes a little sense) : Stress is the main cause IMO and lighting difference adds to the problem. Here is my anecdotal breakdown in % numbers: *Transport (in the cold temp) stress= 5% chance of mortality and %10 on stress level. * dipping, handling (it’s species dependent) and re-planting (cutting off old plug and gluing to fresh plug). 10% chance of mortality after already stressed coral and %20 on stress scale. * Alk (only 1dkh between tanks so not a big deal), nutrients content, flow and other chemistry differences? Hard to say for sure but I do give it another %5 on stress level. * And finally lighting. I do give it a 30% in mortality chance (on sensitive species) and %50 on stress scale. Difference between T5s and LED is dramatic. Intensity and narrow focus of LEDs matters and can be a huge factor in comparison to T5s. And if you add all those stress factors together and then blast new frag with abnormal/different/more intense light source well, it might be lethal. We are in deep trouble. So, total of %85 on my stress level (all those stress factors that coral had to go through in a matter of hrs). And %45 on mortality chance scale. This isn't a common situation but my personal breakdown based on two tanks, transport/weather factor, light differences, personal handling/fragging stressful process, and specific species. So at the end, Red Dragon might have a 50/50 chance of survival at the very best. I don’t like those odds. I honestly don’t know if Red Dragon is going to survive this or not but here are few things that I have tried in desperation to save it. * placed on the bottom of the tank (lower light/ mid flow) - didn’t help much. STN continued marching on. * same location, cut off infected branches. No change. * move of desperation (%25 of large frag is already consumed by STN): cut it off frag plug/rock, cut way above infected area, apply glue to areas closest to affected part of the main stem, glued frag directly to live rock up high, high flow. Placed multiple of round camera color filters to reduce light exposure but not affect other corals in the tank. They are simply placed on top of net tank cover and provide shade for this particular coral. Increased amino-acid input. It’s a good way to provide a building block for recovering tissue/ tissue growth. Results so far: STN stopped at the moment. Whitish tips at certain areas getting more color back. Success? Far from it but we will see how it goes over the next few weeks. My guess, if it show signs of recovery, polyp extension and some growth over the next 3-4 weeks, we might be in the clear. This has become a race for the light. 3 montis, all light hungry, all desperate to survive the shading game. Am I placing my frags way too close to each other and increasing the chance of warfare? Absolutely. Not my intensions but it is what it is.  Not attractive but not forgotten. These zoas are nicknamed “Grow Zero”. Same 3 polyps for the past 8 months. Moved to dump tank to let it taste some dirty water in hopes that it might promote more growth......., but it didn’t happened. So moved it back to the main tank for now.  There is like 5 tinny frags of Setosa scattered around this and dump tank below. It’s glued and encrusted to small rubble rock, however. Rubble rock that it is growing on is not permanently glued to the main structure. Therefore, it gets knocked off, or pushed aside by accident or grazing Urchin.
  3. I’m sure you can. Why wouldn’t it grow? All they need is seawater. 😏 But honestly, there are some @&$%#€ that hate my tank as well and refuse to live a happy life like rest of them. The last batch of sticks I got from my buddy got me to do some real gymnastics to get them back on track. You would laugh at things I’ve tried to save them but they’re still alive so it worked or I just got lucky. Lol
  4. Some gobies aren’t spotlight divas. I see my Circus Goby twice a month an avarage. He’s like a squatter avoiding eviction. Super cryptic fish. Love him and hate him at the same time.
  5. Acid trip is the bomb! Isnt that grarf also called bonsai tree or something? I like that one as well. It on my list. You treated yourself very well sir. 😉 Well done.👍
  6. Clowns aren’t the sharpest tools in the shed. They feel like they can host anything that’s fuzzy. Occasionally, they could be just d!cks and try to move things over that bothers them for whatever reason, including corals.
  7. For someone new it can get overwhelming. The amount of knowledge, basic chemistry, various equipment/filtration methods etc. and infinite number of opinions on line, on various subjects can get depressing. Don’t get caught up in this blackhole of practical/anecdotal knowledge and occasional opinions that are pure nonsense that will lead to failure. Mentor is a great idea. Someone local would be best. Or someone online with years of success and result to show for it. There are plenty of tutorials online, YouTube etc that might be helpful. BulkReefSupply, Marine Depot, Reef Builders, AmericanReefChannel, Melevsreef (all on YouTube) are just a few from a number of great content providers. Saltwater isn’t difficult. Set your goals, learn the basics, be patient, apply good husbandry and safeguard to keep you reefing for years to come. Pick few sources of knowledge that you trust and feel compatible with and stick with it. No one knows your tank like you do and you must apply ways that work for you to be successful. I have few tanks that are run and setup in very similar way but behave differently and both tanks deal with their own set of challenges. So trying to replicate someone else’s tank setup and practices don’t necesserly guarantee success. But it helps. At the end, you need to make it your own and figure out what works best for YOU. Good luck.
  8. Epoxy between RFA and this acro (forgot what it’s called). It did not appreciate stingy foreplay from its neighbor. Needed some intervention. 4 new babies. Found this guy getting tumbled around the bottom. Lost this guy some months ago (Urchin the decorator). Though I lost it but it seems to start recovering. JF hairy something. New. Woodoo Magic Cadillac Don’t know. Below it Walt Disney
  9. All my posts are long enough to explain the situation. So no worries, I like to hear what fellow reefers have to say. As to using inkbird well, don’t stress yourself about it. It’s a decent controller. I’ve been using it for a while now and I would still recommended over running heater without any safeguard at all. We all went through some issues with alkalinity fluctuations. For some reefers it didn’t go so well, for others, recovery went a whole lot smoother. I’m not going to speculate what can be attributed to catastrophical failures but I would advice against any aggressive corrections to address those issues. Easy and slow is the way to approach most of those holly @&$# moments. And yes, it’s always easier to “add” than “extract” as far as water chemistry/parameters are concerned. Dump tank is going to survive just fine. It just had a bad week that’s all. 👍
  10. Removed %90 of ChemiPure Nano and Poly-Bio-Marine pad I’ve used to neutralize CoralRx spillage. Red Dragon stopped STN and tissue loss seemed to stop for now. New fish will be here on Tuesday. Thats about it as far as good news. Bad news...... before placing an order on Hanna regents and other crap, I decided to check Alk in both tanks. 30l is fine but “dump” tank is at 5.5 DKH!!! After few seconds of holly &@$# moment, I start trying to figure out what happened. It didn't take long. Dosing tube is close to first chamber where UV and filter floss is located. While replacing a filter floss, I must have knocked the tube over and behind the chamber wall. Not sure how long did this go on for..... Probably days. Fish is fine but my chalice is pissed. This chalice went through a LOT so I have fate in it to recover, again. Not going to @&$# around with water change or go into some crazy panic mode. Sh!t happens!!! Easy does it. Slow, incremental dosing for few weeks should bring it up to mid-hi-6ish.
  11. Made from recycled materials is worrisome. What materials? What process was used etc? It could be perfectly safe but I personally would not take that chance.
  12. Water changes of%50 over the next two weeks would balance things out (that would be the easiest and less risky approach if you're not comfortable with using additives to correct imbalance). Make sure you have the right salt (test b4 WC), your tes kit/ instruments are accurate/calibrated, your Mg is where it supposed to be and don't panic. Especially if your tank is doing fine. No drastic action is needed. Vineger can help but not recommended if you're not familiar with basic water chemistry. I would start by reading this article tho: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.htm https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry