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wh1skey6

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About wh1skey6

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  1. wh1skey6

    Cloudy Tank Questions

    This is one single MP10 on at the lowest setting. HOB with floss. Been two days. Still cloudy.
  2. wh1skey6

    Cloudy Tank Questions

    Alrighty, two days after floss and clarifier. I turned the MP10s almost all the way off. This is what it looks like. @seabass's theory of a bacteria bloom might be valid.
  3. wh1skey6

    Cloudy Tank Questions

    Probably not. I had two so I figured "why not". Also like to keep one on constant and the other on lagoon to randomize the flow.
  4. wh1skey6

    Cloudy Tank Questions

    Yup, prior to MP10s, I could stir up the top level of the sand and it would clear up in hours. With the SunSuns, I had one aimed at the surface and one aimed at the bottom. No issues. Arg. I want to keep these MP10s and don't want to change out my sand. Done. I had two packets of the clarifier and am running floss now. If this doesn't work, I am going to turn off the MP10s over night and see if it looks any different in the morning.
  5. wh1skey6

    Cloudy Tank Questions

    This was my initial thought but couldn't figure out if it was bacteria or sand dust. Live stock seem great. Before I put the sand in a few months ago, I did rinse it three or four times. What is crazy for me is that it was clear a few weeks ago and now not so much. It doesn't look like sand grains in the water column. Suppose it could be sand dust.
  6. wh1skey6

    Cloudy Tank Questions

    My tank is a 29G with 2 clowns and a handful of frags (softies/LPS). No skimmer, no sump, no fuge. Nothing fancy. I'm using CaribSea Arag Alive sand (I believe Bahamas Oolite). I cannot seem to get crystal clear water. This was about 5 weeks ago. At the time, my set up was two cheap SunSun 525GPH powerheads. Water was pretty clear. I usually add a HOB with floss for two days and will blast with a turkey blaster to get the crud into the water column. Fast forward until two weeks ago. I switched from the SunSuns to two MP10s. (Note I had redone the rock work after the first pic was taken). For the love of me, I cannot get clear water. This was taken last night. I stopped blasting the sand and only use the HOB with floss. Still extremely cloudy. You can kind of see where the MP10 is in the gif below. They're old school ones but I think they're at around 20-30%. I wouldn't think the placement and power level would kick up sand like that. I tested a few days ago and of course, left my params at home. If memory serves: Salinity: 1.025 Temp: 78* Nitrates: Undetectable Calcium: 380 kH: ~150
  7. wh1skey6

    Buying RODI vs Making

    Oddly this hasn't been a huge issue. I either send my daughter to pick it up since I pay her insurance and gas or I'll stop by after work. Yup, I get close to that each time. I have ~20 gallons in my rubbermaid container and another ~20 in jugs. I can always do 100% water change if I have to.
  8. wh1skey6

    Buying RODI vs Making

    Nope. I mean I have a hydroflask and use the filtered water from the my fridge.
  9. wh1skey6

    Buying RODI vs Making

    My LFS sells RODI for $.25/gallon. Yes its 0 TDS. I go through an average of 4.5 gallons a week...so 234 gallons a year for $58. Aquatic Life RO Buddy 4 stage - $60 Carbon Cartridge - $10 x 2 Sediment Cartridge - $10 x 2 DI resin - $20 TDS Meter - $20 This is based on "research" that you should be changing carbon/sediment out every six months to reduce bacteria growth. My tap water is ~100 TDS. I figure I can get the DI cartridge to last ~500 gallons. Year 1: $100 (Initial purchase, TDS meter, one set of cartridges) Year 2: $40 (two sets of cartridges) Year 3: $60 ((two sets of cartridges, one DI resin) Year 4: $40 (two sets of cartridges) Total: $240 Or spend $58/yr * 4 years = $232 and not deal with having to store the RODI unit. Or to deal with the waste water. Obviously if I don't have to replace carbon/sediment every 6 months, cost goes down.
  10. wh1skey6

    Powerhead flow 29 gal with DSB

    A friend gave me two MP10s. I'm only using one right now. I didn't mind the two 530GPHs. If you aim them correctly, you shouldn't get any sand kicking up. The one thing I don't like about them is that the impeller blade is narrow so your flow is narrow. With the MP10s, the impeller is wider so it is a bigger current. Suns are also quieter than MP10s. By a lot. If you have a return, then you have surface agitation. Try putting one Sun at the bottom and aim it up. Flow should go through your rocks for filtering.
  11. wh1skey6

    how many drip acclimate?

    I second (third?) Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer that @seabass recommended. I could only find it at Lowe's and it was super cheap compared to the dedicated coral dips.
  12. wh1skey6

    Powerhead flow 29 gal with DSB

    I literally switched from the SunSuns last night but I had two 530GPH in my 29. I aimed one at the surface and towards the back. I aimed the second towards the middle front. Worked for me but my sand bed was 1.5 - 2".
  13. wh1skey6

    Got some free MP10s - how should I use them?

    I retract my previous statement. I went down to one MP10 over night on Reef Crest at about 30%. This morning, both my bi color hammer and my Xenia are fully opened/extended. Even my narcissus snails are on the sand bed chugging along. I will say, they are louder than the intank SunSuns.
  14. wh1skey6

    Got some free MP10s - how should I use them?

    So I hooked up the two MP10s. Waiting to be thrilled by them but that's a different story. Should I go with just one MP10 though?
  15. wh1skey6

    Got some free MP10s - how should I use them?

    I guess that depends on what kind of wavemaker pattern you want. The RK2 can cycle the two controllers but can't control much else. The MP10 has quite a few more options in terms of controlling. I was thinking of either leaving the RK2 on "constant" with the MP10 on Reef-Crest...or maybe cycle the two but still leave them on Reef-Crest.
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