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About partlycloudy531

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  • Location
    Atlanta, GA
  1. Ya, I still need to shorten that return line. Hopefully it will raise the water a little. Thanks!
  2. I finally added water for the leak test. Unfortunately there were leaks and the overflow was way too loud. So after some more research I decided to plumb the tank all over again. The leaks were caused by some quick disconnect unions that I bought at Home Depot. The guy at Home Depot tried to talk me out of them but I really liked the idea of not gluing the plumbing. I also switched from the ball valve to a gate valve because I couldn’t get the overflow silent enough with the ball valve. All is good now though. No leaks and overflow is almost dead silent. I tried to take some pictures from behind the tank but it was tough. I think I’m going to try to raise the water level about a half inch by glueing some acrylic to the inside of the overflow box.
  3. I’m a little worried about that, too. It will be cold here in the South this week so I’ll have a chance to test it out with no livestock in the tank.
  4. It was a concern I had but I figured if people have been keeping sumps enclosed in cabinets with no problems, then this wouldn’t be much different. The tank only comes about half way up the shelf so there shouldn’t be any condensation build up. If it does become an issue then I’ll have to look at some kind of vinyl laminate to protect the wood.
  5. Plumbing is done (hopefully). Going to run a leak test tomorrow.
  6. Tonight, I cut the holes for the overflow and the return and painted the back black. It was my first time cutting glass but I watched some YouTube videos and read some tips on the forums. The Eshopps Eclipse came with the diamond bit and an acrylic guide that you tape or clamp on to the glass. If you don’t have something like this, you should make one out of a piece of wood or acrylic yourself. I heard at least 20 people say DO NOT try to cut the hole freehand without some sort of guide or the bit will run across the glass and scratch it. So I cut the hole first for the overflow using the included bit and guide. I was a little nervous at first but the tank was $90 so it wouldn’t be the end of the world if I messed it up. It ended up being just as easy as everyone said it would be. So now I’m feeling confident and like an idiot, decide to try to freehand the return. Ya, I know. Stupid decision. The bit slipped just like everyone said it would and I scratched the glass just like everyone said I would. Luckily the bulkhead covers the scratches completely or I’d probably be ordering a new tank. Lesson learned, no more shortcuts.
  7. Thanks! My plan is to go 100% captive bred so I’m thinking a pair of clowns, a trimma goby from Biota, and a few captive bred snails for a CUC. I have a pair of black snowflake clowns in my biocube but I really just want a pair of plain old orange clowns. I have not been able to successfully keep zoas in my biocube so I’m hoping I can change that in this tank. I am not a big fan of SPS so I will probably just stick to mostly LPS. I’ll let the tank cycle for at least 6 weeks so I still have a while to think about it.
  8. Thanks! It’s my first experience with both of those pieces of equipment but I will definitely give my thoughts on them in my updates. The book shelf is 18” tall and the tank is 9.5” so I’m hoping I should be ok for maintenance. My real concern is having enough room for the AI Prime since I have to leave space for the fan on top.
  9. After keeping my first successful reef tank for over a year (BC32), I decided it was time for another tank. This will be going in the bottom left hand corner of a built in bookcase in my living room. The sump will be hidden away underneath in the cabinet. Im waiting on the last of my plumbing pieces to arrive so I can begin the install. Here is my plan so far. Updates to come soon. Display Tank: Aquamaxx 9.1g Rimless Sump: Eshopps RS-100 Overflow: Eshopps Eclipse S Light: AI Prime HD Return Pump: Innovative Marine MightyJet Midsize 538gph Powerhead: Ecotech MP10 Vortech ATO: XP Aqua Duetto Heater: Cobalt Neo-Therm 100w with an AutoAqua Smart Temp Security Sand: CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Rock: Real Reef Rock Filtration: Seachem Matrix and Chemipure Blue Skimmer: TBD
  10. https://www.reefcleaners.org/acclimation Here is a link to their guide.
  11. Snails are not that sensitive to salinity change. Just match the temp for about 15 minutes and you should be good.
  12. I have a Chill Solutions chiller on my nano and it works great. It’s a 32 gallon and was constantly running 85 plus, now it’s at a steady 78. Definitely the cheapest solution. The money you would save not running your A/C would probably pay for it in one summer.
  13. I have the Chill Solutions chiller on my Biocube, which looks very similar to the one you posted in the eBay link and uses the same type of technology. I have 25 gallons of water volume and it brings my tank down from 82/83 to 78 with no problem. Assuming that one in the eBay link is reliable, then it should work for you.
  14. I have full coverage. I think it mostly depends on your aquascape.
  15. You can’t go wrong with either one. I have the Nanobox retro in my 32 and love it.
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