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About jeremyan7

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  1. And I actually.... paid. . for the Paly rock. I just wish they grew at similar rate to others... I suppose I could go the other way, and let it just grow...
  2. ugh. why did I learn this months after buying those from the LFS
  3. see link attached.. I have a healthy tank. Good water params. this is a 14g IM peninsula... My problem is the green(=ish) Payls are growing WAY faster than everything else... You can see them in the video here: On the right- center, then the center center... They are taking over other zoanthids, and SPS. How can I control these? I'm concerned about Palytoxin maybe.. and losing the other colonies.. Any thoughts?
  4. All, My tank is finally doing great! I have many kinds of polyps and LPS growing in my 14g IM peninsula tank. I have a colony of green paly's that are growing faster than everything else, which I envision becoming problematic. So.... 1) how do I cut them back? They are growing onto nearby rocks / corals / zoa colonies and attaching really well.... 2) do I worry about palytoxin? On my fingers? (I don't usually use gloves when putting a hand in the tank... must I?) In the air? I read that this is only an airborne problem, but I'm asking... The colony now has easily 60 polyps up from about 10 3 months ago... Jeremy
  5. So here is my plan of attack. It would seem this is very likely GHA. It seems to be 98% relegated to the black sand. I'm not willing to give up on the black sand yet. so: 1) I'll check my nutrients especially PO4 and see if I need to do something there, but I suspect not an issue. 2) I'll buy some more critters. In 2 categories a) nasarius snails to lower nutrient level in the sand bed and b) hermits that might actually eat some of the GHA 3) to get rid of some of the growth now, I'm going to use a siphon hose to skim the top layer of black sand off with the GHA attached. I'll then was and sterilize that sand before putting it back. Thoughts?
  6. Hey people. Which is this? GHA or DINO? And how to get rid of?
  7. Everything looks great except there is a bit of GHA creeping on the gravel. I want to control it sooner than later.. chemistry looks good too.. so the GHA may be "controlling" that... ideas? Critters?
  8. So quick update. The 4g weekly water changes seem to help a lot. Qualitatively, the tank LOOKS a lot better. The numbers are "good / improving". Initially the removal of the chaeto / light, 2 types of sponges caused a quick film growth of green algae on the glass, but that seems to have slowed down. Everything looks stable and good now. I have a little bit of green algae on the gravel, that I need to buy some critters for.. Not sure which will be best . I had a big Trochus snail die recently (have about 4 smaller ones still going).
  9. I had recently built (January) a 14g nano with the IM Fusion 14 peninsula. It has the ghost skimmer. After cycling I placed in 4 fish (4 in there now but not the same 4) and a bunch of zoanthids and LPS. The corals and zoas and fish all look good now, but I am changing my approach to nutrient extraction. Originally I was doing a 2 gallon water change bi weekly (1g / week) But also ran Nitrate removing pad and phosphate removing pad. ALSO I had built a fuge using the 6w nano-fuge light mounted to the back glass with a piece of caulurpa in the media basket. My observation was the no3 and po4 were still high and the caulurpa (and chaeto) were not growing. In fact they were melting. (I suspect this was due to the light being too bright and too close.). So more recently I switched to doing a 4g waterchange weekly. quadrupling the amount total per week. My No3 and PO4 have gone way down to "normal" levels. Zoanthids look better all are well.. But.. The micro-fuge still doesn't work. So I pulled the plug on the second light and removed the now melted ball of macro algae and will run without it. I also removed the phosphate and nitrate pads as These seem to be temporary use. I am now down to JUST 4g weekly water changes and the Ghost skimmer... thoughts?
  10. Looks great. Would be even cooler if you had a 1 button (even remote or timer based) controller that controlled a series of electric butterfly valves and did a 15 gallon water change completely automatically. including measuring out 7.5 cups of salt mix into the bucket...
  11. Do you not find "Too much flow" with the spin stream AND the Koralia? I just have the spin stream (and mine is the 14g version) and there seems to be plenty of flow everywhere....
  12. Clown.. Nice stats. What is your bioload?
  13. Interesting.. I'm sure there are just as many nano-owners WITH skimmers who'd claim they are very hel[pful. I suppose with enough water change everything is fine either way.. But I DO make a nice medium tea color cup of skimmate a week so one would imagine it's "working". . That said, I still have No3 and Po4 to deal with.. I have 4 medium - small fish and they are fed once a day for about "60 seconds worth" so my feed / bio load is certainly not low, but I'd say moderate. I will continue the higher freaquency water changes.. My biggest bucket (at the moment ) is 2 gallons so I'm limited. I appreciate that doing 1 4 gallon change is better in terms of reducing nitrate than 2 - 2 gallon ones.. Mathematically..
  14. Well, here is an update.. I'm now maintaining No3 at around 20. May try to lower to 10 in a week or so. Slowly it looks like more and more Zoas are opening. Certainly a few each of the "closed" colors are opening... Everything else looks good too. I fed reef roids to the tank.. so we'll see..
  15. From the looks of it, the Acrylic is not really the problem here. The design of the shelf itself looks "reasonable". My engineering problem stems from the 4 screws.. In your case you have a static load pushing down on the shelf and a static fix point which is actually working as a pivot on the back of the shelf to the wall. What that means is the TOP 2 screws are under tremendous "pull" pressure and the BOTTOM two screws are actually not doing much (other than to stabilize the shelf.). I'd do 2 things. 1) Use LARGE (perhaps 1.5 inches ) washer with a smaller one on top. These are required really only for the top 2 screws. This will adequately spread the load force on a much larger area of acrylic and over time will prevent a failure. 2) I'd make sure the actual screws are long with wide grip threads (a lag bolt as someone suggested above) to prevent the stud from stripping over time. I assume you're not screwed into a metal stud (because if you are, just RUN). Good luck.
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