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jeremyan7

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  1. jeremyan7

    Removed chem-pads and Fuge to try new approach

    Everything looks great except there is a bit of GHA creeping on the gravel. I want to control it sooner than later.. chemistry looks good too.. so the GHA may be "controlling" that... ideas? Critters?
  2. jeremyan7

    Removed chem-pads and Fuge to try new approach

    So quick update. The 4g weekly water changes seem to help a lot. Qualitatively, the tank LOOKS a lot better. The numbers are "good / improving". Initially the removal of the chaeto / light, 2 types of sponges caused a quick film growth of green algae on the glass, but that seems to have slowed down. Everything looks stable and good now. I have a little bit of green algae on the gravel, that I need to buy some critters for.. Not sure which will be best . I had a big Trochus snail die recently (have about 4 smaller ones still going).
  3. I had recently built (January) a 14g nano with the IM Fusion 14 peninsula. It has the ghost skimmer. After cycling I placed in 4 fish (4 in there now but not the same 4) and a bunch of zoanthids and LPS. The corals and zoas and fish all look good now, but I am changing my approach to nutrient extraction. Originally I was doing a 2 gallon water change bi weekly (1g / week) But also ran Nitrate removing pad and phosphate removing pad. ALSO I had built a fuge using the 6w nano-fuge light mounted to the back glass with a piece of caulurpa in the media basket. My observation was the no3 and po4 were still high and the caulurpa (and chaeto) were not growing. In fact they were melting. (I suspect this was due to the light being too bright and too close.). So more recently I switched to doing a 4g waterchange weekly. quadrupling the amount total per week. My No3 and PO4 have gone way down to "normal" levels. Zoanthids look better all are well.. But.. The micro-fuge still doesn't work. So I pulled the plug on the second light and removed the now melted ball of macro algae and will run without it. I also removed the phosphate and nitrate pads as These seem to be temporary use. I am now down to JUST 4g weekly water changes and the Ghost skimmer... thoughts?
  4. jeremyan7

    Build A Saltwater Mixing & Water Change Station

    Looks great. Would be even cooler if you had a 1 button (even remote or timer based) controller that controlled a series of electric butterfly valves and did a 15 gallon water change completely automatically. including measuring out 7.5 cups of salt mix into the bucket...
  5. Do you not find "Too much flow" with the spin stream AND the Koralia? I just have the spin stream (and mine is the 14g version) and there seems to be plenty of flow everywhere....
  6. jeremyan7

    IM Fusion 10 / 14 sump area use?

    Clown.. Nice stats. What is your bioload?
  7. jeremyan7

    IM Fusion 10 / 14 sump area use?

    Interesting.. I'm sure there are just as many nano-owners WITH skimmers who'd claim they are very hel[pful. I suppose with enough water change everything is fine either way.. But I DO make a nice medium tea color cup of skimmate a week so one would imagine it's "working". . That said, I still have No3 and Po4 to deal with.. I have 4 medium - small fish and they are fed once a day for about "60 seconds worth" so my feed / bio load is certainly not low, but I'd say moderate. I will continue the higher freaquency water changes.. My biggest bucket (at the moment ) is 2 gallons so I'm limited. I appreciate that doing 1 4 gallon change is better in terms of reducing nitrate than 2 - 2 gallon ones.. Mathematically..
  8. jeremyan7

    Chemistry / Zoanthids not opening..??

    Well, here is an update.. I'm now maintaining No3 at around 20. May try to lower to 10 in a week or so. Slowly it looks like more and more Zoas are opening. Certainly a few each of the "closed" colors are opening... Everything else looks good too. I fed reef roids to the tank.. so we'll see..
  9. From the looks of it, the Acrylic is not really the problem here. The design of the shelf itself looks "reasonable". My engineering problem stems from the 4 screws.. In your case you have a static load pushing down on the shelf and a static fix point which is actually working as a pivot on the back of the shelf to the wall. What that means is the TOP 2 screws are under tremendous "pull" pressure and the BOTTOM two screws are actually not doing much (other than to stabilize the shelf.). I'd do 2 things. 1) Use LARGE (perhaps 1.5 inches ) washer with a smaller one on top. These are required really only for the top 2 screws. This will adequately spread the load force on a much larger area of acrylic and over time will prevent a failure. 2) I'd make sure the actual screws are long with wide grip threads (a lag bolt as someone suggested above) to prevent the stud from stripping over time. I assume you're not screwed into a metal stud (because if you are, just RUN). Good luck.
  10. jeremyan7

    Micro-Fuge in IM Nuvo 14 Sump

    So my first attempt at "attenuating" the brightness is to place a thin napkin tissue between the glass and the light (It doesn't really get hot). This both diffuses and cuts the light amount going into the tank. I'll monitor for a few days and see how well that works..
  11. jeremyan7

    IM Fusion 10 / 14 sump area use?

    So no skimmer for you.. You must do bigger water changes?
  12. I'm curious to know how others have tricked out their IM Fusion Sump areas. Particularly the 3 slot 12" wide back's on the 10 and 14 and 20 peninsula tanks.. For me, I have the 14g and I've left the original return pump but have considered upgrading to something more quite. But the flow in the tank (with SpinFlow) seems more than adequate). I have in the return column also got a 50 Magnum LED heater (which I'm not thrilled with as it's only adjustable in 2 degree increments and is off by at least 2 degrees out of the box). And the Tunze Osmolator makeup sensor (that is actually a very tight fit, requires modification). Also there is a 6"x2" slab of phosphate pad and a small bag of purigen in that column. The middle column is easy. IM Ghost Nano skimmer And the overflow column I've replaced the filter sock with the IM 3 chamber media rack. I use the TOP chamber for a double wide Nitrate pad / filter floss which I replace every couple weeks. The bottom two chambers are open for a ball of Macro Algae (currently 70% caulurpa and 30% chaeto. WIth the black sticker on the back removed for that section and a 4w Nana-Fuge LED stuck on the outside. I am in the process of determining that the 4W light is WAAAAYYYY too much for that proximity and space, so I'm likely to modify it to reduce power to about 1w total.. So that' show I use MY sump area... How do you use yours? Comments on mine? Ideas? Tips? Tricks?
  13. jeremyan7

    Micro-Fuge in IM Nuvo 14 Sump

    Ah. so maybe i'm burning it..... Perhaps I can put a power resister in the light to attenuate the brightness by say..... 50%? maybe that would grow more of what I want and less of what I don't?
  14. Hello all, I have recently started up a Innovative Marine 14g Nuvo tank. It's got a Ghost skimmer, and is populated with 4 fish, 15lbs each of LR and LS. In general it's working well, but I'm looking to do some natural nutrient export. So I replaced the filter sock with the multi-tray from IM and have attached the JBJ Nano Fuge GLO light (4 watts of white led) to the back of the tank so it shines IN to the area of the multi-tray. I have sectioned off the bottom 2 sections as my fuge. Initially I started out with a small chaeto ball, with 1 tiny leaf of caulurpa. Since then the chaeto mostly melted away and the caulurpa has been growing I'd say I now have 20 "leafs" of that.. I have set the light cycle to counter the main tank and is ON 16 off 8. here is my general problem. I'm getting ugly brown algae growing on the inside of the glass both of the tank (where the light goes in) and the clear plastic of the multi-tray).. which I've been scrubbing off with a toothbrush periodically... I'd love a more natural way to do this... or prevent it.. Ideas? about he problem or my attempt at a micro fuge in general?
  15. jeremyan7

    Chemistry / Zoanthids not opening..??

    Well the 4 fish certainly are the source of most of the No3 (from feeding) but It was more me not properly calculating required water changes for the tank based on bad test kit. so once that is under control.... I'd hope at least the No3 problem is not contributing to other stuff... the question remains, will the Zoas open up?
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