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About johnvu

  • Rank
    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 08/14/1973

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  • Interests
    exotic birds, nano reef, computers
  1. johnvu

    LEDs for moonlight

    Anyone that wants to purchase LED lighs for low cost, I bought some at Fry's Electronics for only $2 per light and $5 for the ficture and pug. No need to pay a lot of money for them.
  2. johnvu

    moon light

    Actually, if you leave the lights up too long, you will keep your corals up and it would not be healthy. A friend of mine who actually owns a salt water reef fish store in Milpitas suggested that I leave mine on for about 4 hours after I turn off my main lights and then turn them off. The 4 hours would help stimulate the moonlight in the ocean for nighttime spawning, but you would want to turn the the moonlights out after 4 hours to give the corals a few hours rest. He also suggest that you turn on the moonlight only for 1 week out of the month, just like how the moon comes out only once a month. The best way to determine when to turn on your moonlights is to follow the real pattern of the moon. When the moon comes out that month, turn on your moonlights, and when the moon no longer comes out, turn off your moonlights. That's the best advice I can give you according to my experience. good luck
  3. johnvu

    Hate my 20k MH, Rig something up?

    To tell you the truth guys, i do not know why you want your tank so blue I prefer to have my tank balanced and look realistic. Too much blue makes the tank looks fake. The point to having a nano reef or a mini reef is to make it look as much as natural as possible. By adding too much blue, it looks fake without adding any benefit. Just my opinion that's all. Is there anyone out there that share the same ideology?
  4. Hey Warboz, can't help be see your question. The thickness of the baffles is not as important as the overflow. Are you thinking about having the overflow hang in the back or internal? For an internal overflow and baffle, you can use 1/8". If you're making a hanging overflow, then use 3/16". Good luck and free to PM me if you have questions.
  5. johnvu

    clams and sps under pc's

    I agree with De and everyone else for the most part. You can keep clams and SPS under PC lighting, but they won't be as healthy. a 70W Mh like DRZL has suggested is great for a tank your size and its not terribly expensive. I bought my 150W MHs HQIs for under $250. You just need to shop around, even check on Ebay or Craigslist. You find good deals there. SPS grows way faster with MHs. Check out the specs on my tank. PM me if you need more info.
  6. johnvu

    longterm use of HOB fuges...

    Krispy, the slime you are experiencing are not really algae, well, maybe some of it, but they are usually beneath the slime. The red, green, or dark blue grean slime you see is called Cyanobacteria. Where do they come from? Cyanobacteria are complex and not all "that" well understood to be honest. A lot has been written about them, but in terms of aquarium control of such algae there is little conclusive material. In the greater majority of cases the nutrients these algae thrive on is dissolved organic material. Where does this material come from? It comes from the decay and breakdown of anything that is alive or once was alive in the aquarium. Sources include (but are not limited to): Fish slime Invertebrate slime Other life forms in the tank Algae and bacteria dead ones or live ones Excrements Excrements that contain partially digested food Uneaten food metabolic and catabolic processes Material on rock Live rock and the life forms on it alive dying non live rock on which and in which some life forms exist that you may or may not see because the size may be real small (again these life forms may be alive or may be dying) Additives you use that are high in organic material Live foods and so on, indeed, this is only a partial list, but as you can see the sources are indeed numerous already. When any of these start to decompose, break down is a better word really, organic compounds are released and mix with the water. These compounds then become the "nutrient source" that leads to the sudden appearance of spots of cyanobacteria. At first they are real small and may only appear in one or two areas. These spots quickly become larger and larger though if nothing is done to prevent this from happening. Suddenly they are visible in more than one area of the tank and are now large and distinctly unsightly. What is happening is that Cyanos are overtaking the aquarium because the nutrient levels they require to grow are now high. Using an efficient protein skimmer and frequent water changes to keep dissolved organic waste down to a minimum should do the trick. You can find articles of this nature at http://www.athiel.com. There are over 400 free articles on reef and fish keeping. Good luck and free to email me if you have questions.
  7. johnvu

    Are you going to MACNA?

    Where is MACNA held at this year? Can you please email me some info on where its going to be at? Thanks.
  8. johnvu

    Refugium Mud.........

    I have to agree with djunkman. The mud just feeds is to feed the macros, not the tank, inturn the algae cleans the tank. You can use the mud to plant some mangrove seedlings that also help filter the water. But djunkman is right, Chaetomorpha is the best for a refugium due to its hardiness and asexual reproduction. I'm running a 20 gallon wetdry with a skimmer (I use this very little since it removes trace elements from the water. I use it only when I need to, about once a week for about 12 hours but you need to replenish the nutrients by adding liquid trace elements or do a small water change). The water then from the wetdry flows through two 1 inch bulkheads to a 30 gallon refugium where I have about 4 inches of live sand with Chaetomorpha and grape calerpa, I also have some kelp. The refugium has 10 brittle stars to help stir the sand, 3 sand dollars (they also help stir the sand) tons of mysis shrimp, and other critters. All these animals help maintain the refugium by eating dead organic matter and converting them to nutrients and it gets cycled back into the tank. The water then gets pumped back into my tank. I have about 400 lbs of live rock in the main tank with this wavemaker called Wave2K that I just purchased a few months ago. This is THE BEST wavemaker system I have found on the market. I have it in the back of my tank behingda wall of rocks to hide it. With this unit I don't need powerheads in the tank, I just have the surface current from my return pump. How this thing works is that it sucks water through the top of the unit, once the unit is filled with water (holds about 2.5 gallons) the water is then expelled through the bottom output, after the unit is empty of water, it repeats again, this time sucking water from the bottom and expelling it from the top. It does this over and over every 6 seconds. After one cycle about 8.8 gallons of water is displaced causing total water movement in the tank, just like waves in the ocean. You can actually see waves inside your tank and the surface of your tank looks as if its on a surf. Its amazing. The unit is about $200 dollars, but you'll probably pay that much if not more for all your powerheads and wavemaker machine create a far less realistic waves. Check it out at: http://www.wave2k.com/index.htm I'm using only one unit in my 200 gallon reef and its perfect. In anycase, I change about 20 gallons of water a month, with a refugium I don't need to do a water change as often, I can replenish trace elements when I top off the tank from evaporation. I'll have a site set up pretty soon from my experiences in setting up my tank. Its been up for 2 years now. The lighting I'm using is 2 150Watt MH HQIs (double ended) The unit is 24" L x 3" H x 5" W with 4 fans in the canopy. I also run 4 36" PCs 2 10K and 2 blue actinic. My tank is only 24" high but th etank is deep, so I don't have to use stonger wattage on my MH. I hae all the SPS near the top and have the soft corals lower. I have my clams on the bottom and they've been doing well. To help grow SPS I have a calcium reactor set up. I have the lights on timers where I have the PCs turn on at 8am (The 2 actinic turns on first and then the 10K PCs) and the MH at 11am. The MH turns off at 6pm and the PC at 8pm (the actinic are the last to turn off) This helps stimulate the rising and setting of the sun. I have the following fish in my tank, 1 baby niger trigger ( I don't recommend this, but sometimes baby nigers are okay if you are lucky to get a docile one, but keep an eye out. Keep them well fed. They haven't bothered my shrimps at all. I have 1 Asfur Angel from the Red Sea, about 5 inches. I have a powder blue tank, pygmy angel (my favorite), flame angel, 4 watchman gobies (helps stir up the sand), 4 blennies, 2 mandirine gobies, 2 purple fire gobies, 3 red fire gobies, 3 blue damsels, 1 atlantic tang and a pair of gold stripe maroon clowns, and a pair of percula clowns. If you have any questions just contact me via email at: jnvu@pacbell.net. I should have pictures up soon.
  9. johnvu

    Hate my 20k MH, Rig something up?

    I'm currently using 2 150W MH HQIs right now also and they're both 15K and to me they are blue enough for me. Since I have a 200 gallon reef, mainly soft corals and zoos, I have some hard corals up near the top. I also run 4 PCs (2 blue actinic and 2 10K). I think the best way to solve your problem is get yourself a canopy with an open top. You can mount ice caps to the front side of the canopy. this way the PC won't obstruct the light path of the MH and you no longer have to hold the light. lol. The second option is to get a pair of mini pc actinic lights. But I think the canopy will be better.