Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About morecoffee

  • Rank
    Community Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central Arkansas, USA
  1. Sorry for the late reply. Tank is humming right along. I probably only change 1/2 gallon every two weeks. In August I added a meteor shower. I don't feed but once every few weeks. Frog spawn is bigger than picture. Turned back on light to take pictures and he was partly asleep. Has 3 or 4 big heads and several small ones. Leptastrea has added new corolites, but not really expanded from original frag size. Psammocora has taken over the frag disk and is now one with the rock. Florida mushroom is much wider and appears to have two months Favia has grown just a little bit. Probably hungry. Meteor shower is slowly taking over the rock I set the plug in. Hermie and snail are fine. I have limpets or baby snails. Probably limpets.
  2. I have the 3.7 version of this tank with the hiparegerow and like it a lot. Looking forward to what you do with the tank.
  3. Since it is out front it shouldn't build up to bad if you flick it back in once every couple of days. There is some amazing FW paldiariums/Riparium builds. I think a mangrove would be doable. Not sure what other types of non algae plants you could pull it off with 1.026 salt. Maybe more options with brackish/transition. There are some amazing frog habitats.
  4. I wanted to discuss if anyone would envision using a Penn-Plax AquaTerrium for a unique tank system. I couldn't find any salter water builds at all and there don't seem to be many vendors selling these. I'm not looking to start a new tank, but thought this might be a cool idea. The tanks look to be a AIO/Aquarium/Terreium/Deep vs Shallow water setup with a narrow tall aquarium in the back and a shallow poll in the front. I see contradictory gallons/sized from amazon & the youtube video, but here is what I think they are: The Lagoon: 4 Gallon in back & 2 gallon front Grand Lagoon: 10 gallon in back & 4 gallon front Tidal Pool: 6 gallons in back & 3 gallon front Grand Tidal: 13 gallon in back & 10 gallons in front Planting Tank Small, medium, large: .8 gallon, 1.8 gallon, 2.65 gallon They seem purpose built for: paludarium, riparium, Planted Tank + shallow water amphibian, etc. I think they could make an interesting saltwater tank such as: - Harlequin shrimp in front with star colony in back - Frag tank in front with planted macro in back (spot feeding would be super easy) - Pod colony in back & Madrid in front (but probably to small) - Low lying coral/anemone tank for top viewing - dwarf Seahorses in front and use the back to slowly release live food - Star colony in front - Mangrove/seagrass feature Thoughts: Crazy, Silly, interesting?
  5. I change about 1 gallon a week (estimated about 33% of total water volume). Once every couple month pull out coral and rock and siphon 75% of total water. About 6 weeks. I'll go through my phones photo's to give you an estimate of the timeline: Tank was wet about November 27th. Cycled with generic ammonia & Dr Tim's one and only. Added Chaeto in late December 20th. Cycle is established and first piece of coral (LPS favial), hermit crab, and snail about January 7th. January 17th added two more coral (Chaeto is doubling almost every two weeks the first couple months) March 24th added two more frags. I'd still like to add a small tubed blastomussa and a micromussa, but in no hurry.
  6. Maybe. Because I've heard pukani rock can release nutrients for a while I plan on keeping a larger amount of chaeto in the display. After 6 months I will reevaluate. I've wondered if the stock light is high enough par and could be modified and tapped to the back glass for a chaeto.
  7. Also I would assume the contestant were taking bigger risks an pushing it to the limits vs taking everything slow.
  8. png, I just wanted to encourage you. I don't know much about jars, but small tanks could be relatively easy. I'm fairly new to SW. I have a small all-in-one style tank and I find it no more difficult than a freshwater planted low -tech tank. I buy saltwater from a local store and water change 1 gallon a week. I water change out about 75% once every few months for good measure. With my lid my salinity stays very stable without topping off all the time. I keep RO water in a sport bottle and give it a little squirt once in a while if I think of its. I'm not advising it, but after I knew the cycle was done I've stopped testing for anything but salinity. I have very load bio load and only a few frags so far.
  9. If you haven't purchased it yet petco also has a 6.8 gallon version out now for about $10 more. The back chamber does seem a little different though.
  10. Everything is still alive and growing. Hermit crab and chaeto grow the quickest and corals very slowly. I feed my corals & hermit crab shimp pellets or tubiflex worms. I put a couple pellets or tear off little bits of dried worms in a baby medicine syringe then draw in some tank water and let it sit until the food is re-hydrated and crumples out. Then put a little bit on the corals. Crab will eat out of it like a baby calf from a bottle. In the back of the tank I made compartments out of plastic canvas and zip ties. The top section sometimes has polyester pillow stuffing. The other sections have travertine tile. Not sure if it does anything, but thought I should put something else back there. Full Tank Shot Here is the right side. You can see where I cut the rock with the saw Left Side Top
  11. I just used a hacksaw. It seemed to cut easier when the rock was wet than when completely dry.
  12. Congrats! I'd worry less about how much time I have to put into it and think more about safety and keeping them from messing up tank related stuff. You've got a little while until you must secure everything, but here are a few things to think about: Are wires, hoses, pipes safely out of reach from getting pulling out of the wall or tank or wrapping around body/neck. Are all chemicals, food, test kits at inaccessible height or in a locked cabinet. No water that they could fall in (Sumps, water change buckets, spare water, waste water) Is the tank stand anchored to the wall. Even if they could not physically pull it over in one push/pull they may be able to rocket back and forth enough to get it to fall or to topple the tank. Could they climb up the stand. or in a high chair. If you are doing more than feeding make sure no-one is mobile. Don't feed with a baby to toddler in your arms or you will overfeed by 3x or spill it on the floor. If I have my hands in the tank there is a 100% chance I will be asked to do something urgently child related. You learn to develop a new normal.
  13. On second thought if your drip rate were for some reason not exceeding your evaporation by a certain ratio (not sure the ratio) then salinity easily could build up. Have you thought of maybe doing an automated water change, but not continuous. Possibly put a weak pump on a timer to run x minutes x times a week and have your auto top off sensor set right below the overflow level. I'm curious how big you plan for your sump and NSW reservoir. Even with agitation/o2 I'd be curious is NSW would change in an undesirable way over the course of a year.
  14. If your reservoir is covered and weekly water change turn over is fairly high I assume your salinity would increase very slowly if much at all due to the high exchange of water. You could test it then dilute your res with a little RO water down to 1.024 to see if it keeps it stable without a top off.
  15. If you added an overflow (two for safety) to your sump the old water should naturally drain out at the same rate you are bringing water into the sump from your fresh SW. If your fresh SW is higher elevation than your sump you could use something like a drip acclimation tube and not use a pump at all. I'm not sure how baffles would affect this, but I would want my waste water to leave near where water enters the sump (no need for clean it if it leaves the system) and have my new water come in near the return pump in my sump.
  • Create New...