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About jahnje

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    aka J J

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    the junction of the 2017 and 2024 total eclipses
  1. As an FYI, most hardware stores will carry o-rings of the size that broke.
  2. jahnje

    Cambro Reef

    Random update... So a few days after the previous post I woke up to find my acro bleach white, and xenia shrunk. I can only imagine that one for the other corals or something nuked it with a tentacle or something. Completely disheartened I abandoned the entire project for 4 months. No water changes, no feeding, no top-off. Just bubbles,light and temp... Finally in July, feeling guilty, I decided to do a 100% water change, and inspect the carnage. The results, for posterity, were the following: Acro, still dead. Xenia, Still dead. Trochus Snail, dead. 😞 Algae, lots. 😐 copepods, Still around. 😊 Hammer, shrunken and unhappy, but alive.😐 Zoas, 1/2 lost out to algae.😐 GSP, Grown and doing well.😌 Montipora, covered in algae and Super Happy, and finally growing... 😆 Analysis: The Algae gave the pods a nice home to live in, and fed the monti and GSP. The hammer with it's larger mouth really wanted larger food, same with the zoas. Current state: Seeing as the monti now has tentacles and great polyp extension. I decided to concentrate on reviving as much as I could. This meant clean up as much of the algae as possible, and get some real flow into the system. That didn't work very well for the 1 gallon container. Little pico pump I bought just didn't fit anywhere, or blocked too much light. So I bought a 5 gallon container and a Cobalt 106 GPH powerhead, and an Inkbird heater controller . I also switched to daily micro feedings of reef chili and amino acids. This had some problems, in that though the flow was great, the combo of the lights and the powerhead causes the temperature to climb to over 81F during the day. So I've attached the powerhead to my temperature controller for my QT system which causes it to come on and off sort of randomly throughout the day. I also added an old HOB filter for a 29 gallon tank on the back to make constant flow throughout the day, and left the bubbles. Everyone seems to have adapted and appreciated the higher flows in the tank. I've added few snail as well. Future: I think I'm going to move all of this into a 20 or 29 gallon long in a little time so that I can have a few fish in here. I'm just can't think of any fish that would be happy in a 5 gallon tank. The plan is to connect this system to my 220g system, or at least it's 40G sump, since the 220 is still occupied by koi, and not attached to the sump yet, which is just empty and idle. FTS from there other day right after move to 5 gallon:
  3. I don't think you'd want to do it all at once anyway, but here's a link for the actual math, that will give you an exact answer. https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/DirectSaltCalculator.php
  4. MY understanding, is that you should do it fairly slowly. Esp. if it's an established tank. Basically take a cup out every couple of days. One this will minimize the amount of detritus released from under the sand. And two this will give the bacteria and flora in other parts of the tank a chance to achieve an equilibrium. This isn't anything I've ever done personally, but I remember the Ryan at BRS discussing this in a video the other day or so, for their 160. Given that you're dealing with a 10 gallon, I'd go real slow probably.
  5. Status update: Brine Shrimp: Still growing just fine. Sadly I don't really have anything for them to be feed to at the moment, So at this point I'm just seeing how long I can keep them alive. They are still being fed a little bit of spirulina powder every day(ish). No water changes. Copepods: I have a pretty dense population at this time. They seem to be doing well. I'm pretty sure the population is based on amount of algae added to the system. I'm adding about 20 ml of ocean magik per day. Pulling 50 ml of pods for pico reef, and adding 30 ~ 50 ml of NSW each day. Pico Reef: Getting 5 ml of Ocean Magik and 50 ml of pods per day. 50 ml of RO/DI per day. 0.025 ml of some NZ coral vitalizer and sponge power per day. Reef Chili and NZ SPS aminos twice a week. 100% WC every two weeks. Everything is holding on pretty well. Still getting decent encrusting from the acros. Got some algae growth of various kinds, but nothing out of control, nothing that feels overly nuisance like. Algae Culture #3: Crashed again after 5 days. Event with addition of 50% more fertilizer in the beginning. Algae Culture #4: Started 3/13 , 1 ml F/2 in 3L of straight tap water + RC. Just about died off completely, so added 3 drops of prime and 30 ml more of ocean magik. Seems to be growing now in a similar fashion to the previous cultures. Will just have to see if it can get over the 5 day crash hump. Algae Culture #5: Started 3/15, back to 1 ml F/2 in RO/DI +RC. Air increased to roiling boil, and adding additional 1 ml of F/2 every other day. I really think my crashes are coming from starvation. The idea behind using tap water is that there's a lot more nutrients in the water vs. RO. So we'll see which culture does the best. I really don't like the idea of Algae from tap water in my pico though, even if it does survive. So I'd like to get the RO version working. I think "The Lab" currently looks pretty cool in the dark, between the algae and the coral.
  6. started new algae culture on Monday. Culture #2 died 7 days in. was going well, then subtle discoloration, taking a few more days to be really noticeable. I bumped the f/2 to 1.5ml from 1.0 ml combined in the previous culture. We'll see if I starved it. If it goes a day or two further, then I'm going to assume that's the case. The lights seemed to be enough, so not changing those. You can see in day 7 where the blue tint suddenly disappears. I use manual setting on my phones cameras so I can see subtle daily changes. Like the aerator line disappearing over time.
  7. true, my local Petco's RO/DI water isn't actually ro/di. My LFS if too far away to make it worth while, gas wise. So I went the Walmart route till I got and RO/DI.
  8. In the meantime, to answer your original question, distilled water from walmart will work, but can get expensive and tedious pretty quickly.
  9. just as an FYI, since I keep seeing this whole rinsing sand to avoid cloudiness issue. You can also just use an inverted two liter soda bottle to put the sand in if you don't want to rinse it. And it gives you a fairly targeted way to get it where you want it. Like I said, just an FYI. and kinda interesting way to do it. Just put the sand in the bottle, then turn the bottle upside down in the tank. Don't squeeze. It will comes out quite fast, but clean. All of the dirty cloudy water will remain in the bottle.
  10. I'm going to two in my 2 cents, but for the most part it's going to agree with Clown79. Lights: I hear good things about the ABI lights. I think they meant 23W when they said 24W no biggie. Cheap clip on desk lamps from walmart will hold them if your lid doesn't. Flow: The more the merrier, you can't have too much. Rocks: Some of the best reefers out there are running ~3/5 lbs / gallon. So if you like the way what you've got looks you may have enough. If it handles your ammonia, then you've technically got enough. Temp: you probably just slowed down the process, but I doubt you killed anything. The warmer the water the faster the cycling process. Salt: get a refractometer, no seriously don't even bother with anything else. Nitrate export: choose something that you're comfortable with, personally I like the algae export methods. But don't get hung up on this. Nitrates and phosphates and probably not quite important as it can seem. You do have to keep them under control, but not zero. Topoff: I'd think a 2 gallons of distilled from walmart would be fine, and I'd be really surprised if you managed to use more than one a week. Your'e going to use even less if you keep your tank covered, but not sure how that would work with PAR38 lights. Always keep one full gallon around. For that matter by enough that you can even mix up a gallon of saltwater to have at the ready. You could probably even mix it in the jugs. Scale: my personal fav, get yourself a cheap digital scale weight the amount of salt it takes for you to make a gallon or whatever, and then just repeat that each time. I find that if I'm making small volumes of saltwater for water changes, that measuring by volume is rarely reproducible. notebook: keep notes lots and lots of notes. I've view my notebook almost as a recipe book. As you find things that work for you write them down. Otherwise you'll forget and have to figure it all out again. test kits: for the most part the API kits will work well enough. KH is probably what you care about the most. Ph fluctuates all over the place, but KH is what will really show you changes. I like to think of Ph as how fizzy the soda is and KH as the flavor. If your soda goes a little flat while your drinking it no problem, but if someone switches it out your sprite for Pepsi, heads are gonna to roll. extras: heater and power head. ASAP get yourself some extras of these. They will break. esp. the heater. diversity: The more biodiversity you have, the more stable the tank. This goes for algae and hitchhikers. Somethings will kill, others may just be a nuisance, and others may serve a purpose. When you find something unexpected in the tank don't just nuke it from high orbit. Figure out what it is and what people think of it, then make your own decision as to whether or not you want to live with it. Along this line, keep an eye out for copepods. These little guys are worth their weight in gold when it comes to keeping your corals fat and happy. You may have gotten some on your live rock, you may have to order some. clubs: find some local clubs, they can be a great place for help, and free/affordable resources. Also check out the pico tank forums for how little you can truly invest in a tank. I bet your only a light or two and a refractometer away from having the bare necessities. next thing on my list would be a redundant heater.
  11. I agree with @Clown79 Lighting is about as important as it gets. You really want to be talking about PAR readings an not Kelvin. PAR is almost the exact inverse of LUX as far as the spectrum goes. Check out brsTV on youtube for some GREAT videos. as far as the IoT thing goes, you can start out with a seneye which will help you track PAR, NH3, NH4, Ph, and Temp. and can be web accessible. As for your gels, remember that they don't change the color, they filter it. A 1/2 CTO gel only allows the more orange light from flash trough which is why it reduces the amount of light by a 1/2 stop. all of the other light got bounced someplace else. The top spectrum is PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) which is what corals and plants require. The bottom is LUX which is the spectrum that we as humans believe is bright and important. reef lights are designed to produce a brighter PAR spectrum. Adding a gel in front of these will only allow that part of the spectrum through leaving an even bigger hole. as an FYI these are screenshots from my seneye's webapp. You could use it to test your gel idea if you don't have a color meter laying around.
  12. I'd think you'd only really get salt creep where you've got splashing or bubbles popping. Salt doesn't evaporate, it gets splashed by things. Sometimes very tiny things like air bubbles, and about 8 inches to a foot at that.
  13. I've got to agree with the others, let your parameters creep up a bit. You're probably too clean. You could probably drop in some reef chili or even better; some copepods and a little ocean magik. That way you can raise the nutrient level while still keeping the waste parameters fairly low. I've been pumping pods into my pico for a few weeks now, and it's really made a difference in coral growth and happiness. The pods will also help keep nuisance algae down a bit.
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