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About Jesterrace

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  1. It's possible. I believe he was a rescue given the size though.
  2. Possibly. Clowns get very territorial once established and that is true of singles or pairs. The problem with the 10 gallon is in several parts, 1) You will be limited to 2 fish at most 2) Evaporation will be a bigger issue with the 10 gallon 3) The 25 Lagoon would give you some other stocking options and 4 smaller fish total instead of just 2. 4) Although cubes are cool for compact footprint and aesthetics, saltwater fish tend to value length when it comes to not feeling cramped in a given tank 5) While it's true that people can be perfectly happy with tanks of 10 gallons or less long term, you might find that after a while you will get bored with the super limiting constaints of the 10 gallon cube vs a 25 lagoon that would give you more long term options. Any upgrade is generally a significant loss in terms of expense for the transition. I also don't think you will need 2 AI Prime HDs even on the 25 lagoon unless you plan on a bunch of SPS corals. A Single Prime should be able to handle the entire tank okay for most Corals.
  3. As long as you get some sort of screen top to prevent jumping I see no issue with it. As for the lighting, if you are going to the $100 mark, I would bump it up to $109 and get a light that is more than adequate to grow what you want with a Mars Aqua 165 watt black box: https://www.amazon.com/MarsAqua-Dimmable-165W-LED-Aquarium/dp/B017GWDF7E/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=OZETBGEWLVPK&keywords=mars+aqua+165w&qid=1553401955&s=gateway&sprefix=Mars+Aq%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 It offers little to nothing for customization but it will definitely grow just about anything you want though.
  4. Dry Rock is good but it does take a while to get the biofilter established on it, that is why Life Rock is a good compromise.
  5. I actually classify it with Live Rock personally since it does have a bacteria coating on it already.
  6. Agreed, virtually all dry rock should be scrubed/cured prior to use to ensure you don't have phosphate leeching/dead matter issues.
  7. Avoid the 6 line unless you want the fish equivalent of a serial killer once it matures. Wrasses need horizontal swimming space and a 2 foot cube doesn't do much for them in that department. Possum or Pygmy Wrasses are the only ones suited to that long term. Melanurus gets way too big and needs a 4 foot long tank. I have one in a 90 gallon and it makes use of every inch of space in that tank (and it's only half grown).
  8. You definitely want a fish that can hold it's own. 6 lines are well known for turning into pescacidal maniacs as they mature, especially in smaller tanks. Orchid Dottyback and Midas Blenny or maybe a Forktail Blenny would be my recommendations. Be aware that the Forktail does have venomous fangs, although they are generally used strictly for defense.
  9. I actually have the Man Made Caribsea Life Rock and did a review of it as well. The review not only covers the Caribsea Life Rock but also weighs the Pros and Cons of Regular Live Rock and Dry Rock. This way you can decide what is best for you:
  10. They are definitely poor shippers and it is a case of literally picking the right fish. As for the Females vs Males? Wrasses actually have the ability to switch genders and in captivity most revert to male at some point. What it is is that Juvies and Females generally have similar color schemes, so people often confuse a Juvie with a Female. It's the 2-3 inch juvies that seem to do best in terms of their ability to adapt. I got a Blue Star Leopard Wrasse in this size range and observed it a couple of weeks before buying (it was part of a bulk order by my LFS) and it was very active and eating well. The ones that were more lethargic were all dead within a few weeks. Personally though I feel that Leopard Wrasses ARE NOT suited for Nano Tanks. They get 5-6 inches in length and are very active. My Blue Star Leopard is about 3 inches long and it makes full use of the 90 gallon tank that I have it in (as does my Melanurus Wrasse). Wrasses of this genus really need 4 feet of length to do well long term. For Nanos Possum or Pygmy Wrasses are best suited. For 3 foot long tanks (ie 30 Long, 40 breeder) then my go to wrasse is the Lubbock's/Tri-Color/Multi-Colored Fairy Wrasse or a Carpenter's or McCosker's Flasher Wrasse.
  11. I would agree that with gobies it depends on the types you are mixing together. For example if I were to put a Yellow Watchman Goby and a Tiger Goby togther I would expect problems as they are of similar shape and area in which they cover, but if you were mixing say a Clown Goby and a Watchman Goby they are different shape and occupy different parts of the tank and should co-exist. All saltwater fish are individuals though so no telling for sure how well 2 will get along until you try.
  12. If you have tried everything else (ie Turbo Snails, reduced lighting, feeding less, bumping up various clean up crew members, etc.) and had no joy, then Fluconazole is definitely the way to go. I tried it out a couple of months ago and let my tank run with a single dose for my size of tank and then let it sit for a month. Fluconazole specifically targets Bryopsis (the hair algae family) and leaves everything else alone (Coraline algae and my Chaeto were perfectly fine and growing during the whole time it was running). You will see a spike at the end with all the nitrates and phosphates released (so you do a big water change once done to counter this). Anyways this is what my tank looked like before (notice all the hairy gunk in the pores of the rocks): Here is what it looked like after the dose:
  13. I would say your 16 gallon is probably maxed out now. IMHO it's a bit small for the Royal Gramma's swimming habits but it could work.
  14. One of the things to learn about the hobby though is that the Gallons don't matter as much as the dimensions. For example there are a number of fish I would feel comfortable recommending for a 30 gallon Long tank that I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending for a 32 gallon Biocube. Length is crucial when you want to open up your options for fish stocking in a given tank. For this reason I am not a fan of the cube tanks as they severely limit the fish's horizontal swimming room (and believe me Wrasses other than Possum or Pink Streaked definitely make use of it). So it's not as simple as simply having a tank that holds more gallons than another. In point of fact I actually think even the 20 Long is a better footprint than a 32 gallon Biocube in terms of options for fish.
  15. If you want the easiest way to do it without harming other stuff then Aiptasia X is the way to go IMHO when it is just one and small like that. The problem with the other methods is you have to be very precise and accurate with the target or you either waste the attempt or the Aiptasia will simply retract and or possibly spread. The Aiptasia views Aiptasia X as food (similar to how a mouse views D-Con) and then basically ingests it and poisons itself from the inside out and also keeps it from spreading. The other thing that's nice about it is that it doesn't require nearly the timing and precision of the other methods to be effective and unlike the other methods it can help prevent them from spreading. If the tank is covered I don't usually recommend it as it's not really effective. I was in a similar position where I had one hitchhike on a Zoanthid and we hit it with Aiptasia X when it was a small single one like that and it never came back.
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