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sapling

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  1. Hey nanoreef, So super excited about recieving my Nanobox duo plus m today, but now Im a bit lost in all the settings. Who else got theirs today? Anyways, Im wondering if the default nanobox channels are fine for the tank to leave as is, The second question I have is, the blue is a bit strong on my eyes, and wondering if anyone might know how to get a little away from the total actinic look? maybe 10-15k range? Also, with this lighting change will it change my corals colors drastically? I know my acan has changed much from when I bought it which i chalked to exessive zooxanthellae from different lighting making it yellow/green and wonder if this lighting will make it more towards the correct color of orange. a reference for the color change anyways thanks to everyone for the replies
  2. how to increase the salt level

    well, afaik, your CA, Mag, and Alk are going to be tied to some extent to your salt water level, since your salt mix most likely has them and is the main source for them. Because your salt level is low currently, it would be okay to assume your parameters are low as well. Unless you dont use rodi, and use very hard water, you can probably confirm this with test kits. By fixing your salinity, you should be increasing your other parameters to the correct levels for corals, stony in particular. I would not add corals or sensitive animals until the salinity is stable. hopefully this helps, and as for a fish, i'd recommend a clown goby. as for the corals, pulsing xenia is really nice and is a fast grower, ricordea florida since it has a really nice texture, and I really enjoy feeding and seeing my acan.
  3. how to increase the salt level

    what i've done so far for me, since im in a similar boat of having to increase salt level, but not to the extent you are, I let the evaporation take away some water over time, increasing the tanks salinity, and instead of adding freshwater, I top off with new salt water that matches the tank's current salinity. this way I feel its gradual enough not to affect the livestock. once you reach the desired salinity, just go back to regular freshwater topoffs. hopefully this can work for you
  4. Another what fish should get next post!

    yes carnivore fish will eat flake, and almost any pellet fish food for the matter. almost all fish foods will have some form of fish or shrimp as the main ingredient. royal grammas are pretty cool, hopefully you let us know what you pick!
  5. Which clown fish should I get

    personally, I have a caramel clown, they should be around the same price as a regular ocellaris, I dont know if you have that one available as a pair. If its only the price holding you back from the picasso and snowflakes, you should just wait honestly. its super tempting to get it now, but you wont regret it later if thats what your heart is wanting. your tank wont suffer if you are late with the fish, but hopefully that helps you out a bit,
  6. Help! - Aiptasia on my Frogspawn?

    I cant really think of anything else it could be, since it looks brown and like an aiptasia. I would get rid of it if you could, especially while small, I've been lucky enough with aiptasia to only pop up where i can easily take it out of the tank to die from drying up.
  7. Help with Pocillopora SPS cant tell what's wrong

    @Clown79 yeah thats how I've usually done it when I was using coralRx for my GSP with the nudibranch issue. I only did 25 minutes this time because of the thread. It wouldnt be pinned if it wasnt correct would it? I remember reading the toothbrush bit but felt that was a little extreme as well, but I try not to assume to know more since coral care seems to be such a deep topic to learn, and im in no way an expert
  8. Help with Pocillopora SPS cant tell what's wrong

    @SelectedByNature yeah I appreciate it! the reason I did that was because of this particular pinned thread on the coral subforum, https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/159974-the-official-way-to-dip-and-acclimate-sps/ as for the CoralRX I just did what was said on the bottle, 20ml per gallon, or 4 caps. followed the instructions for SFE as well. I did not use interceptor like the OP but felt the overall process seemed suitable since its even pinned. what would you have recommended for the dip?
  9. Help with Pocillopora SPS cant tell what's wrong

    I dont have the tools to frag, nor are there any tips long enough without the lost tissue to frag. I dont have glue but I do have silicon. Did not do either. so an update so far of the coral, it is still alive, and it almost looks like tissue is coming back? I specifically see 3 areas that I can notice that have 1 more polyp than before or new tissue. I didnt know the coral will grow over its skeleton again, I really am hoping this is a good sign. I havent noticed any more tissue loss when comparing my daily photos of it. the coral is Extended as usual, but i dont think i should move it until the new light comes in, and it acclimates to that. has anyone had luck feeding a pocillopora newly hatched brine shrimp? I've seen mine capture them, but dont know if they are able to eat. My refractometer and fluid came in and I calibrated with 35 ppt fluid. it agreed with my hydrometer in tank, and floating glass hydrometer. so my measuring salinity accuracy seems fine. Also I am currently getting ready to increase the salinity from 1.023 to 1.024 by adding salt water at 1.023 instead of fresh during my top off to let evap do the increase, afaik I am shooting for 1.025 eventually correct? then I will do my usual 10% water change after mixing the new batch to 1.023 Finally, I have bought a BRS 4 stage rodi and finished setting it up and followed directions. I do not have a TDS meter due to budget, but should be safe to assume this will be better than tap water ?
  10. Help with Pocillopora SPS cant tell what's wrong

    @burtbollinger thanks again for the insight burt, after reading what you said, I happen to own a swing arm for in tank, a swing arm for the new mixes, and a glass float hydrometer. I just tested against themselves to see accuracy.(my swing for tank measured 1.023, my older one for water mix is 1.020, and dual glass float hydrometer to 1.023) I know I should look into a refractometer now since the swing arm for mixing is 0.002-3 off for some reason after retrying the test, but the swing arm in the tank wasnt off, since my glass hydrometer agreed with it. thanks for the suggestion, Will look into that, is there a specific range i should use? the ones on amazon show 1.000-1.070 for marine use, is this suitable? its the closest one to my budget, as i saw the red sea one is 50 vs the ones at 20-25. @pj86 thank you pj86, yes I did a fresh water top off(i manually add water because of evap, its open top) before the coral got there, since I knew I shouldnt touch the parameters once it gets here, the ca and alk looked in line, so I did not think 1 gal would knock it terribly off from expected. I did not test immediately after the water top off, do you feel like those parameters on day 2 were not good? Like i mentioned, the tissue at the base has not peeled off like what was above on the main stem. could the encrusted tissue be safe from this then? if tissue and polyp loss has slowed down, is this a good sign? or is it too early to tell? is the polyps still being extended any good sign or does this irrelevant with this issue? and I should not not move it correct? thank you both for the advice so far
  11. Help with Pocillopora SPS cant tell what's wrong

    @Clown79 thanks for the response, I see, for what its worth, I had ordered a new reef capable light on the 26th, but it will not be shipped until the 10th. My current stingray lights puts out roughly 40-45 PAR to the sandbed which I felt was capable enough for the acclimation period for the sps as I heard you want it on the sandbed regardless before you move it up a week after. the LED strip does have 460nm deep blue leds and a few true 660nm red, the rest being 7k. the light is considered low/medium par lighting depending on height. The seller was surprised when I shown the photos, saying that pocillopora was a better shipping coral for them. i did notice when i looked at the pictures the coral already showed stress in one spot at the base where the RTN spread from, this photo is moments after being placed into the tank after acclimation and dipping. notice the bottom right of the base, its already pale to the rest of the body Yes I have the spot at the tank for it, as I planned for it way ahead of time, but I thought not to place it there yet since it would stress it even more. wasnt the sandbed was the correct place to put it after acclimation? would it be recommended to bring it up, even though afaik that would be stressful? it'd be higher lighting and much higher flow if i do, it would be within about 6" from light. but honestly I dont think lighting is the issue for the dieoff that happened overnight. but as an update the tissue dieoff has slowed down extremely vs what happened the first night. the patches on top are extended although more of the skeleton is showing. below the base looks almost unaffected by the RTN as its not showing any tissue loss since the first night with polyps mostly extended knock on wood. can anything be done on my end to help with the RTN? I was worried to dip again, since I already dipped in coralRX and SFE when i acclimated. maybe raising salinity from 1.023 to 1.024 would help or would it worsen the situation? thank you for any replies, I really want to try and save it if its still possible. Is there anything I can look for or into?
  12. Hey guys, I have a bit of a small issue and its really bumming me out to see. My pocillopora I just recieved via mail has overnight lost several polyps. I cant tell if it was my fault or not, but I'll list my water parameters. this is from a 98.8% positive seller on ebay so I dont want to accuse them, but they offered two day shipping and it was so price effective I bought it. Is the coral bleaching or RTN? I've read that pocillopora with perform polyp bailout but I dont know how to look for that. the polyps were starting to extend yesterday, and look extended today. My params the day before adding coral before being topped with 1 gal freshwater; 1.024 sg 77.5 degrees - Fahrenheit 8dkh 440 ppm calcium 0 nitrate measurable 0 ammonia 7.8 ph today after noticing the white skeleton. 1.023 sg 77.5 degrees Fahrenheit 8dkh 420 ppm calcium 0 nitrate measurable 0 ammonia 7.8 ph I do not have a phosphate test kit, but I would think a aquatic life mini skimmer for 30 gals and chaeto would help bring phosphates to a minimal or at least acceptable level. the tank is hitting 6 months old at this point. 4 months if only considering this tank without transfer I do not understand why the coral looks to be doing so bad, and its a little disheartening. My acclimation was as follows; I picked up the package from the Post man himself, taken home, immediately opened and placed the container into my tank for 30 minutes to get the same temp. Then the coral was taken out of its cup and placed into a prepped 1 gal of water from my tank with 1 drop of SFE and 4 capfuls of CoralRx. it was agitated with an air pump and sat in there for 25 minutes. after the timer was up, I took the coral and placed at sandbed of my tank, my lights are finnex stingray 20" so the lighting isnt very bright to begin with. the photoperiod had less than 5 hours left before it was off for the night. during the time I saw the polyps starting to extend and it looked pretty good afaik, but it was today when I woke up to look it looks terrible. could this be polp bailout from the shipping, or RTN, or bleaching? what should I do, I do not own bone cutters to frag, the polyps are still out, and I will include pictures for reference. could this be because of the 2 day transit time? I'm just bummed because I thought I covered all my bases. this is today at 10 am this is yesterday at 5pm
  13. Tailspot blenny never coming out

    I love my TSB and was worried since I was first reading you believed it was going to die its great to read your TSB eats though! For what it's worth, When I got mine, there were two TSBs in the display at the LFS, and one was bullying the other, so I was originally going to only get a clown, but ended up taking the bullied TSB to as a bit of a rescue. I really didn't like seeing what was happening, and It wasn't acting sick or weak, but just harassed by the other TSB since the DT was so small. anyways my experience with it, I introduced it with a small clown at the same time, and ever since are normally always hanging around together, The TSB wasnt too timid with the clown always near it and started eating copepods off the glass and for a little while wouldnt go for the frozen mysis i offered. I was a bit stressed since it only went for copepods for a week. after what I assumed it watched the clownfish go for it enough times, it started eating frozen mysis. I've also had luck with the TSB eating flake food, pellets too. funnily enough, it didnt seem too interested to go after freshly hatched brine shrimp like my clown will, as for the shyness, mine perches on the rocks and cruises around especially when hunting copepods. I've only seen it hide in a hole during the night, when my hand is in the tank, or it is spooked. maybe dither fish help blennies be more confident and help them eat?
  14. Help me to ID some things in my tank

    looks like spirobid worms for the smaller flatter ones and feather worms for the larger spirals. filter feeders. http://melevsreef.com/critters/spirorbid-worms http://melevsreef.com/critters/tube-worms not sure of the pod looking brown dots, the algae, or brown crown things. not sure of that beetle worm looking thing either.
  15. Candy Cane feeling bad

    oh so it's just a prolific algae thats the issue? I was thinking maybe it was more about the water being stripped, made me a little worried since I have chaeto, biomax, and a skimmer for filtration. chaeto is fine right?
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