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About uglybuckling

  • Rank
    insomniac reefer
  • Birthday 12/08/1982

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    HCI/computers, neurosci, violin, fish/reefs
  1. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

    Algae is slowly getting better. 6h photoperiod + weekly 15% water changes seems to be working.
  2. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

    I couldn't get the color right on that picture. It's got much better color than what is shown. I'm not browning out birdsnests. =D I would probably still brown out acroporas, at least with nutrients at their current levels. Give me a month or two. =) I fixed the photoperiod (6h now) and am doing twice-weekly blow-downs with a turkey baster, and once-weekly 15% water changes. That should, within a month or two, have some effect anyway.
  3. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

  4. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

    Jedi--Oh, I read your evil cluster thread....one of the first things I did when I got back. And yep, that looks exactly like me. In other news, I have pictures (very big image files, sigh...), but I can't figure out where to upload them. The webspace I used to use, while it still exists, can no longer be accessed by FTP or web interface--now it requires some ridiculous VPN thing with eighteen different passwords, none of which I seem to have been issued. Fun times.
  5. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

    Haha, yes. Somewhat. You used to sugar dose if I remember right. Should I do that? Are you still doing that? Dude, those look awesome. Shipping that would be an incredible bear though. I lucked out and found a guy selling a 72 x 24 inch footprint x 13 inch tall acrylic tank locally for $100. Admittedly it was caked in more crud than I've EVER seen on a tank (he used it as a coral grow-out tank for 13 years, apparently without ever cleaning it) and had several extra bits of acrylic spanning it (which he had epoxied in, badly, rather than bonding them)--but nothing that a few dozen hours of buffing couldn't take care of. However, I have not had time to set the tank up anyway, so it doesn't really matter. The good news is, I have grown about twenty mangroves to the "starting to get woody" stage for when I DO have time to set this one up. Glad you like it. I hooked them together and then unhooked them, so they're actually currently two separate systems. The issue was that I neglected to account for the increased overflow volume flowing into the sump when the circulation pumps turn off (in case of power outage). When you have stacked tanks like this, you get 2-3 gallons of flowback PER TANK, plus my skimmer is a bastard for flowback as well. So it wound up being too much for the sump, when the algae tank was hooked in. The algae tank still looks nice though; I've got some (but not all) of the macros that I started off with, plus I started throwing coral in there when it tried to take over my main display tank (zoos, GSP, xenia, anthelia). The evil cluster is about 18" above the tank and is doing great for color and for growth on (most of) the algae and (all of) the corals. It's interesting though--red algae do better than green ones. I am in Durham.
  6. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

    I am alive. So are my tanks--everything is growing and happy. It cracks me up to see how tiny those birdsnests were, and how white the rocks were. Current inhabitants are all the originals mentioned in this thread (2 clowns, pistol shrimp and yasha goby, six-line) plus a new yellow tang. And about twenty zillion hermits. I haven't added or pulled out much for the past several months. The light is still working fine, and growth and colors are absolutely gorgeous with it. I did fry Milad's controller with salt creep (didn't see it til it was too late). A few knobs and a timer work fine though. Stayed up til 3am one WORK night rebuilding it. Gee, that was fun. Currently, I've got some GHA (due to neglected water changes; see below) and am looking to possibly start carbon-dosing this tank to get rid of it. It has been a rough few months for me (hence the neglected water changes). Thankfully the tank has come through with only the hair algae, and no loss of livestock except one (rather nice) acan. I don't know how much I'll be around in the upcoming weeks, but it might be more than I was for the past few months, anyway. Hello everyone, glad to see you're all still here.
  7. uglybuckling

    ugly's fugly natural tank

    I gotta take some more pictures. Everything is so much bigger now. =P Got a pretty sweet RAW-format P&S camera coming for Christmas, so hopefully the next round of pictures will be easier than these were. Also, the tank is doing great. More than I can say for myself at this point, but December will be over soon. If you don't hear from me sooner, I'll catch you on the flip side.
  8. uglybuckling

    Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

    Interesting. I had a fiddly string awhile back and it turned out to be a grounding issue--one of the solder blobs was touching the aluminum on the edge of a star. But if you've already checked your soldering a zillion times, the issue is more likely what others have suggested--a bad emitter. Checking them with a multimeter is painful but at this point likely necessary.
  9. uglybuckling

    Full spectrum LED layouts

    Sorry for the lack of updates. I'm still alive--work and the holidays have just gotten pretty busy for me. So anyhow, layouts for Steve's LEDs linear heatsinks are probably the most commonly-requested thing in this thread, along with more info about drivers. Since I (theoretically) have a week off coming up, I'll see what I can do on those two issues. Meantime, I'm taking requests. Wanna see a video about what life is like with three reef tanks, five reptiles, a hedgehog, and no furniture? Yeah, I didn't think so. I'll get to work on the driver video.
  10. uglybuckling

    Underwhelmed by NW

    The latter statement is confusing for me. Two cool whites and two royal blues is going to have very little incident red light. Is your point here that intensity of white light (i.e. in the setting of a fixed amount of blue, essentially color temperature) rather than spectral content is of highest importance? I agree with most of what has been said, in particular that there's a lot of green and not much red in that fixture. If that's intentional, and it's an aesthetic preference thing, that's perfectly reasonable, and I can't really say like, "hey, you should build your fixture this other way." But expecting a fixture with that much green and blue (and it really is a lot; that's like fluorescent light levels of cool white, green, and blue) to respond to the admittedly small amount of red in a neutral white LED in a way that is noticeable is....well, probably unrealistic. My guess is that the effect you were looking for was there, but was just completely overwhelmed by what was already present in the fixture, to the point where it was not noticeable. TLDR there's more than one way to skin a cat. One combo of LED colors that works well is the 6:3:3:1 RB:NW:TV:OCW ratio. Another way uses lots of cool white and green LEDs like your fixture. Many commercial manufacturers have gone the cool white route and built some admittedly nice-looking fixtures. Trying to grab an element that has a specific effect in one fixture and get the same effect from it in another fixture may or may not work well. Your testing, however, of this, is really appreciated and is a valuable lesson for anybody who is looking to do something similar with a fixture like yours. The finding may not be generalizable, however--adding a few neutral whites to a fixture that already has a lot of cool whites and greens is in theory and may be in practice very different from basing a fixture solely on neutral whites. In other news, I added four mushrooms to my ice cream the other day and I'm very much underwhelmed by mushrooms. I could hardly taste them, but what little I could taste, just didn't seem like it achieved the effect that people describe when they add mushrooms to things.
  11. uglybuckling

    Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

    It would be more cost effective to use two smaller heatsinks rather than one big one. I have a 48 inch tank and use two 6x9 inch heatsinks over it. Save money on aluminum and use it to buy better LEDs. There's a thread around here that I made awhile back with full-spectrum LED layouts for most common tank sizes. Should be a reasonable starting point for how to proceed using Cree or Rebel LEDs.
  12. uglybuckling

    BioCube LED Build HELP

  13. uglybuckling

    DIY LED for a 20Long

    http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=311998 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdf_6oWsdZ4 Solderless is okay but you have to find sources for all the solderless LEDs. It's a pain.
  14. uglybuckling

    Easiest SPS to keep in a 3 gal

  15. uglybuckling

    Large Fish Only LED Ideas

    You will get FAR more light per driver if you use Crees than if you use Bridgelux. You will also get more light per dollar of initial outlay. And more light per dollar on your power bill over time. The efficiency of the Cree and Luxeon Rebel LEDs is pretty awesome by comparison to most of the other emitters on the market. (another way to think about it is, for the same amount of light, you will need fewer emitters of the Cree or Luxeons, and thus can save money) Furthermore, I don't trust anyone but the above two brands' neutral whites. The offbrand cool whites are okay for cool whites (I still wouldn't use one in one of my fixtures, but more because it's a cool white than because it's a specific brand)...but good neutral white phosphors are very difficult to produce and although I've definitely seen pretty good neutral whites from (companies other than Cree and Bridgelux), I've also seen pretty terrible ones from those same companies. In the same bin. In other words, it's not that they're all bad. It's that they are inconsistent. For same-current, I'd go with 6:3:1 or even 8:4:1 blue:white:ocw. Why? Blue and white should be roughly the same ratios we use for other builds (which is to say, two blues to one white). OCWs usually run at lower amperage than blues and whites, and as such will be over-represented if we run the blues and whites at the same amperage as the OCWs. (In other words, at the same amperage for all, blues/whites will be dimmer and OCWs over-represented). So instead of the usual 6:3:1, I might go as high as 8:4:1. (in other words, a little OCW goes a long way)