Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About coralreef20g

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday April 14
  1. Why not Fish: Cherub Pygmy Angel Orchid Dottyback 6 Line Wrasse yellow Watchman Goby Coral: WWC Grafted Monti Cap Neon Duncan Jack-O-Lantern Leptoseris purple/red Favia brown Acropora with green polyps irdescent/purple Acropora neon green Acropora orange Montipora Digitata purple Stylophora rainbow Montipora gold Mushroom green with purple tip Frogspawn neon green Trumpet coral “candy cane” purple/green Micromussa Lord “Acan” Sunny D Zoanthid Rasta Zoanthid blue Zoanthid Bam Bam Zoanthid yellow Zoanthid assorted zoanthid yellow Zoanthid w/ red disc radioactive Zoanthid dark green Zoanthid w/ blue disc Inverts (I always try to keep the following: 2-4 Trochus 2 hermits 2-3 Nassarius 5-10 dwarf cerith Pistol shrimp (gobys bff) I never realized how many corals I have😂
  2. Thank you 👍🏼 I wish that was a rainbow scoly! It’s a Rainbow Montipora colony that originally died completely when my tank had a calcium swing. That’s why the middle is just rock/skeleton. I thought I lost is but after about 3 months of stability it came back
  3. Here’s some pictures of the aquaclear. I used the mesh included and a flimsy food grade cutting board to make a baffle. Some cyanoacrylite and accelerator made this build about 5mins. As far as the lights go I’m using a $20 strip light from amazon which is red/blue and adjustable. I wrapped it around the aquaclear then taped it in place with some black ductape. I’m hoping it wont overheat since the tape is somewhat loose, not to mention the cool water flowing alongside it. Youll notice an orange piece of cutting board alongside the left corner of the filter screen. This is so I can get my chaeto to turn over and have the right flow, which is working now. But I’ll probably do something more permanent in the future as it is currently free standing. As as my cycle goes, the chaeto I picked up from Unique Corals came loaded with bristle stars, bristle worms, asterinas, a few tiny snails, and some other weird creatures. So I’ll let nature take its course and let these guys start my cycle. (sorry to any hitchhiker lovers out there) the chaeto I got was probably the entire size of my aquaclear btw, had to discard a good amount.
  4. Just wanted to hear what you guys think. happy reefing👍 First pic is for reference.
  5. Can’t go wrong with a cube, I’m going to mod an Aquaclear 110 which will house my chaeto and heater.
  6. Yo!! My 20 gallon rsm nano is back at home and about to hit its 2 year mark. I can get pictures of if the next time I’m up there. But since moving and leaving my tank to my dad, I’ve missed the reefkeeping hobby.... so of course I bought a new tank! And decided to challenge myself by going even smaller🤪 I went ahead and purchased a 11.3 gallon Aquatop cube aquarium. I’m planning on making a diy refugium to filter this tank and give it the necessary flow. if you guys are interested in updates let me know, and I’ll keep them coming! Happy reefing
  7. My feeding has been low compared to my nutrient export which I think may be a cause. The only fish that had been in the tank was a single watchman goby so I would feed the tank 2-3 times a week. Yet I would top this off with 4 gallon water changes/switching out media weekly (2tbsp of phosguard and carbon). Ive decided to complete the 4 gallon water changes and switching out of media biweekly now, additionally I've added a banggai cardinal and tailspot blenny to the tank so it'll likely be getting fed every other day. Hopefully this helps with the coloration of my sps.
  8. Hey guys, I own a 20 gallon rsm nano with a variety of sps, lps and softies. My daily dosing routine consists of 14ml calcium followed by 19ml alkalinity (I use BRS solution). I know this may seem odd as most tanks and people dose equal amounts of each solution, alas this keeps my tank at a solid 9-9.1alk and 420-430cal. A few weeks ago I noticed some of my sps were becoming a bit pale and generally weren't looking as happy as they usually do. So I checked my parameters and my calcium was still hovering at 420 yet my alkalinity was at a frightenining 5.6. I immediately checked my dosing tubes and noticed my alkalinity tube was dry as bones. Sure enough the reservoir for my alkalinity was completely empty and needed to be replenished, I felt like an idiot. Long story short I replenished the calcium and alkalinity reservoirs accordingly and dosed my tank to get the alkalinity back from 5.6 to 9. In a panic and without thinking about it I dosed about 90ml of alkalinity solution to my tank in one sitting, not spreading it over days as I likely should have. As a result of this incident I lost my rainbow montipora which had previously been growing like a weed, on the bright side this was my only casualty, so far. Aside from a few of the sps all of the corals in the tank were fine. What confuses me is that one of my acropora and pocillopora colonies don't seem to extend their polyps as fully as it they used to, and thus aren't as vibrant or colorful. Yet interestingly it seems the polyps still recede and open under light, signifying they're still alive... at least I think? Neither of these sps corals have shown any sign of bleaching or rtn like what had occurred with the rainbow monti. Both still encrust but seemed to have slowed down and aren't branching off as quickly. I was wondering if these corals are gradually going to get worse over time until an eventual death. Or if there is a such thing as an sps "recovery" in the sense that if my parameters remain stable once more the sps will bounce back with time and regain their health, color and growth rates. Thanks!!
  9. What's up guys, I was just wondering if someone could help confirm whether or not this is aptasia. I received these zoas about 2 weeks ago and they were dipped along with 4 other pieces of coral. I noticed these small pest-anemone looking heads in my radioactive zoa colony but nowhere else. Luckily, if these are aptasia I have not glued the zoa colony. Any suggestions as to what to do?
  10. Well, as you may have assumed from the title I need help distinguishing what's in my tank. I noticed some interesting colored stuff growing on my rock. At first I thought it was a really dark reddish variation of corraline but upon closer inspection tonight I've noticed it looks kinda slimy, and covers the rock differently than my pink/purp coralline. I'm not sure though, all help is appreciated. If it is cyano I happen to have some chemiclean on hand!
  11. Yea, I took the matrix out a while ago. I run 2tbsp of phosguard and 4tbsp of carbon in a mesh bag which gets replaced daily. I recently purchased the hanna phosphate checker but have not been able to get a reading off my tank. Meaning all three times I tested my phosphate came up as 0.00 which just wouldn't make sense given my situation. At the moment my tank is fallow and has been for about a week. Thus, feeding is limited, Ill probably go in and feed my lps some brine shrimp twice a week. When I had fish id feed frozen brine which id just break off and dethaw tiny chunks of a cube since I only had two small clowns. And hiker pellets, which would enter the system in a group of 6-8 pellets per feeding. I also made sure no food was suspended after feeding and that it was being eaten.
  12. Can I see a picture of your tank? Its always cool seeing others takes on the same tank. As far as the socks go I have yet to find replacements but ill look into contacting Red Sea. Its interesting you're plagued with cyano, does it also ever cover the back of your glass?
  13. Ive started using phosguard and have seen a slight difference when using it. Although, when I say "slight" I mean it. I started with 1.5tbsp of phosguard and have gradually started to make my way up. At the moment Im running 2tbsp of phosguard in conjunction with 4tbsp of carbon in a mesh bag. I have this bag placed in an area of my sump which ensures water flows directly through the media. Currently, I am replacing this bag weekly in during my 6 gallon waterchanges, even with all of this prevention I still see a greenish film algae on my glass within a day or two. As far as my sand goes it was not cyano. I bought and used the chemiclean to no avail. The brownish discolor in the sand went away for maybe 3 days to only reappear. Also, a word of discretion to anyone thinking of using chemiclean: take your shrimp(s) out of your tank before using it. 3 hours after dosing the chemiclean to my system I found my blood red fire shrimp dead. At this point I'm considering reducing my light cycle. At the moment it runs from 10am-9pm. So I'm thinking of reducing this period to 1pm-9pm, which would take 3 hours off of my current photo period of 11 hours. Thoughts? Also: I purchased a hanna phosphate checker and have not been able to get a reading. I've performed these tests 3 times so far and have received a phosphate reading of 0.00ppm. However the manual says the choker reads between 0.00-2.50. Could it be possible my phosphate is higher than this and thus I'm not getting a reading?
  • Create New...