Ryan Evan

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ryan Evan

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday
  1. So you are saying that although my calcium and mag and alk are all perfect after a water change and pH is low (as low as 7.6), corals and fish can handle that low of a pH?
  2. Hello all, I have a 5.5 gallon evo that is around 5 weeks old with parameters below with just a CUC in the tank. I was wondering what your opinions would be on adding the minimal dosage of kalkwasser to my ATO to both raise the pH to a more acceptable level, raise the alkalinity more towards the high end of 10 dKh. Ive had a tough time raising pH to a more acceptable range even with water changes so i thought kalk would be a great way to go considering I will be adding corals once I get my levels where I want them to be, and after researching I concluded kalk in my ATO to be the best solution for my low pH, and to keep up calcium levels when I start introducing corals. I know some may say worry about a stable alkalinity over pH being higher, but I have read enough and been in the hobby long enough to know pH, especially for a reef aquarium, should be more around 8.1-8.3, so this is what I want to aim for. What do you all think and what is your experience with kalkwasser in the ATO and do you think it will do to my parameters what I want? Thanks for your time. Parameters: Salinity: 35ppm Alkalinity: 8.5dKh (aiming for 10dKh) pH: 7.7 (aiming for 8.1-8.3) Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 15ppm
  3. Here are some updated FTS's. I upgraded to the Orbit Marine LED with the controller to be able to add coral down the road once water parameters are more balanced. I also ordered calibration fluid for my refractometer- im hoping that all this is because its reading the salinity higher than it really is and that there is not enough salt in the tank, which would lead to a low pH and alkalinity. Ill let you know how the salinity comes out ones the refractometer is completely calibrated.
  4. Update: I added a small clean-up crew of dwarf ceriths and florida ceriths. They have been in the tank a week now and are all moving around and doing great. Water parameters are as follows: pH: 7.6 Alkalinity: 8 DkH Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 0 Salinity: 35 So, now that my tank is about 6 weeks old, I plan to do a water change and hopefully that brings my pH up a bit. Since everything seems to be in check, as long as I do a water change and bring the pH to around 7.8, do you think my tank will be ready for fish? Alkalinity dropped drastically and is back in check. I just want to make sure that that low of a pH wont be a problem since it seems that a lot of you believe that pH is not something to worry about too much, and that Alkalinity is more important to keep in check and as long as that is in check, then pH will follow. So, with those parameters, age of the tank, and success with the CUC, do you believe my tank is ready for a fish, or is the pH of concern. All the best.
  5. Update: Due to water changes, I got my Alkalinity down to 11dKH, pH of 7.8 and salinity at 35ppt, zero ammonia and nitrite. Small clean-up crew arriving in the mail tomorrow consisting of 4 dwarf ceriths and 2 florida ceriths. Going to let them sit in the tank for a week or so, test the water in a week and hope that this time around it will be good for fish! Hitting the 5 week old mark this week. Thanks for all the advice
  6. SO, if my pH with no buffer is measuring around 7.5 and alkalinity around 180 you think that is fish-safe? And about the cycle, yep for sure watched it those three weeks!
  7. Sounds good! I will raise my salinity to 1.026, replace my water, and hopefully that will result in a better pH by raising the salinity. Ill post back here in a few days to let you guys know the results. Thank you all for your time and support.
  8. But a pH of 7.4 is not acceptable.
  9. That is freshly-made saltwater. I need to buffer the tank for the pH to get to around 8.2-8.4. The alkalinity of the fresh saltwater is fine, its the pH that is only 7.4- which is why I use buffer. Any suggestions on how to raise that pH without dramatically increasing alkalinity?
  10. Alkalinity is around 120 PPM and pH is around 7.4 for a new batch of water.
  11. Water changes once a week, and I have an RO filter, no DI.
  12. After reading about pH swings, along with the fact that my fish had a hard time breathing or was gasping, osmotic shock due to nightly pH swings seem to be the possible culprit here since they have been dying or declining in health during the nighttime. But it seems that osmotic shock is due to algae producing CO2 in the nighttime and could result from too much algae or a lack of water changes, but I change my water very frequently and there is little to no algae in my aquarium as you can see from the picture. Any ideas on how I can prevent this pH swing overnight and keep a more stable pH? It seems that the buffer that I am adding is a bandaid to a problem I could solve- natural pH shouldnt be around 7.4 without a buffer. Any ideas on how to fix this naturally low pH?
  13. I got the fish from the same store, but they were definitely healthy at the store and for the first day in my tank. Absolutely zero signs of ill health. No breathing heavily and swimming very healthily and accepting of food. So i think we can eliminate that from the equation. My alkalinity is around 450 (KH)PPM or slightly below that. From my understanding, ideally it would be around 180-300ppm. Maybe that clears up the confusion- our units were different but on my test kit and how ive ever known to measure alkalinity is in PPM. I was wondering why my pH would be so low to begin with- in the past I have never had to buffer for pH, but now I had to to get it up to 8.2 like I said. Every time I measure its right around the same area, but I will be sure to check every 6 hours or so- this is a great observation and thought. But also with such a high alkalinity, dont you think the pH would be more stable? Every time i've checked the pH it really doesnt change at all from the previous time and every time I have started to see the fish struggling, the parameters were the same as the night before My nitrates are still at a solid 20PPM, could it be that the cycle may not have completely ended yet? The clownfish that passed away is still in the tank so I could see if the ammonia or nitrates spike at all from that and they are both still at a solid zero which, again, reinforces that I believe the cycle was a successful one (correct me if I am wrong). Thanks very much for all your help and I really hope to get to the bottom of this soon.
  14. I am just hesitant to add a CUC because the tank is pretty clean as of right now as you can see in the picture- I guess the liverock has plenty for a snail to be happy with. But with the cycle, I added the live beneficial bacteria "in a bottle" just to add to the bacteria colony right off the bat. I still waited for the cycle to start and end obviously but just trying to add some more detail. I mean could it be possible the tank didnt cycle properly? I still have the dead clownfish in there unfortunately and hes been in there all morning and since I got him. If my tank didnt cycle and he was in there, wouldnt the ammonia and nitrite spike? I checked just now and not a trace of either with the fish in there along with some uneaten food, so it seems that the tank has a pretty adequate biological filter. Any more ideas?
  15. Nope no clean up crew at the moment. What could stray voltage be from?