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About SaltyBuddha

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  1. Ahh yeah I read them and it said to mix it vigorously without aeration so I figured a powerhead would be okay. I actually put the powerhead in and put the salt in slowly and within an hour it was all dissolved. Powerhead directed straight down to reduce top water movement. Moved the head after 10 minutes because some salt sat under it, but after an hour it was clear. Definitely understand how aeration could affect the salinity though. Mixing over 4 hours with that probably allows for too much evaporation.
  2. Thanks, Clown. Just wondering, why don't you add a powerhead/heater for 2 hours?
  3. Thanks for the input. Calibration fluid on order
  4. Mixing some SW for the first time ☺ Using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and followed the instructions to add 1.6lbs of mix to 5 gallons to get to 1.025. Measured It with a refractometer (calibrated with RODI water) and I'm getting 1.027. It might be that my little scale is off, or maybe I should buy some 1.025 SW to calibrate the refractometer with?
  5. It takes 2.4 watts to heat 1 gallon of water 1 degree F in one hour. I'm Assuming freshwater is the same as saltwater here. Also assuming you only have 5 gallons of water volume and the Koralia is producing 3.5 watts as the specifications state, it should increase the water temperature by 0.3 degrees F every hour. The since .5 is 8 watts so that would increase the temps by 0.66 degrees per hour. Add these together and the aquarium is increasing at least 1 degree per hour just from those two pumps. It would definitely help to open up a section for ventilation. You could also replace the fans with CPU fans that would push more volume. They are really cheap from Frys but I would be worried about them failing from salt build up. Definitely a piece of equipment to have spares of.
  6. Yeah, the only difference for LEDs is that they produce heat on the back side and not the front side where the light is. So if they are under the hood, they will be adding to the temperature as well.
  7. Thanks for the input. If the clown needs a larger home eventually, that just gives me an excuse to get another tank ☺
  8. I want to stick my IM 10 with one clown and goby shrimp pair. Initially I wanted a YWG but I'm thinking a Hi Fin goby would be better for the size. Would a YWG and clown be too much for this tank?
  9. Just read through your entire thread and I can only hope I get my tank looking as good as yours! All about that money though lol I initially bought the tank with a solid budget and then I wanted this and thought to get this and then upgrade to that and I haven't even gotten it wet yet. Dry rocks are still cycling... I hope you have success with some SPS one day. The only one I really want in my tank is a montipora. We probably got the same inspiration from Teenys tank! I have no experience in the matter, but if it kept getting algae issues, did you think of putting it in a section of more flow? It would grow denser and have more levels, but maybe it would do better? Keep it up. The tank is looking great and maybe I will be able to compete with you in a year or two ☺
  10. RIP Dart
  11. That is normal. Basically, the difference of water between the rear chambera and your display tank depends on your total tank volume, return pump, and overflow. The return pump has a fixed rate at which it transfers water from the last back section to the display tank. The display tank has a maximum rate at which it can return water to the first back section. The different water levels create separate chambers within the back. If both the 2nd and 3rd chambers were the same height (above the partition), water would not really transition from one section to the other smoothly. There would be a chance water from the 3rd could go back into the 2nd, so you want the 3rd lower to make sure this cannot happen. When the overflow and the return pumps are sized correctly, you can manage the total volume of water in the whole system (display tank and all rear chambers) to get the correct levels. If you add too much water, the 2nd and 3rd back chambers would become one. If there isn't a enough water, the 3rd chamber would be emptying too fast. People like this because when the water volume changes from evaporation, the only chamber affected will be the 3rd rear chamber. It doesn't matter if the water evaporated from the display tank or the rear chambers. The display tank will always have the same amount of water. So you can manage top offs by just looking at the amount of water in the 3rd rear chamber. When you take water from the display tank and put it into the back, you are not changing the total system volume. Which is why you don't see any change in the rear levels. They reach that same equilibrium point. You need to introduce new water to increase the water level. Most people have enough water to make the 3rd level like half an inch below the 2nd. TLDR: if you want the water level to go up in the back, add more water to the tank. If you want the water level to go down in the back, remove water from the tank. Hope that wasn't even more confusing.
  12. LEDs have been added. Going to put a few other shelves in but that doesn't need to be noted. Lights make a big difference though
  13. Awesome. Thanks guys. Looking into the manual it does say it absorbs it. Not sure why they had an article stating otherwise. Other than the fact that they want me to buy another canister. I'll replace the carbon with the BRS filter when the time comes.
  14. The pictures of the clowns rubbing all of the men was exactly what the title implies. Love it. Definitely following this clown fish harem.
  15. I did use some wood glue as well. No clamps. Just the panel nails to hold it together. It is very solid. Thanks! The nails actually didn't stand out much at all until I finished it with the gloss and 220 grit. Then they started to shine lol honestly might go over them with a sharpie or some acrylic to hide them because it was bugging me too. Might do that tonight when I put in the lights and a few other things I'll definitely keep an eye on the stand when I fill it. Hoping my rocks cure in the next two weeks so I can start the cycle. Itching to get going