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SaltyBuddha

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About SaltyBuddha

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  1. The frogspawn didn't make too long. Honestly it was so long ago, I don't remember fully, but I know that 3/4 of the corals I got from this vendor didn't make it. The vendor was very generous and offered to give me replacements with my next order, but I never ended up re-ordering. I would assume now that they went through a large temperature swing during shipment that cause them all to stress out too much.
  2. Thanks for the replies @Rabb.D and @WhatsReef I removed the Phosguard and have not added any since then. Been testing and my phosphates are still at 0. Most likely a false zero because I do have a small amount of algae on the back glass and on a newly added piece of rock. I did ramp up my skimming and will keep monitoring to see if any phosphate reducing media will be needed. The corals are looking much better and some of my SPS have begun to color back up.
  3. I used these plastic "coated" magnets. The plastic is not actually coated. It is a hollow cavity with a plastic top on it. 2 out of the 3 in my tank actually started to rust and the outside coating is nickel and copper The one that did not rust was coated in superglue so I suspect that is the reason it did not rust like the others. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/oceans-wonders-n52-v2-mag-rack-replacement-magnets.html I've moved on to these bad boys. Expensive, but super strong and I like them a lot. Coated all the way around in rubber.
  4. +1 this I have multiple in my tank on my Zoa rock. They bug the zoanthids a little bit, but nothing to worry about. I like mine and think they are a pretty cool hitchhiker. Very slow to reproduce and you can use Aiptasia-X to kill them if you ever need to. Also, +1 on not listening to your LFS, or go to another one if you can. That is definitely not a sponge any anyone at the store trying to tell you that has no idea what they are doing.
  5. Yasha or a hi fin goby with a randalli pistol shrimp @skyscraper2290 +1
  6. Nice. Much better. I would take the piece on the front right and either remove it or maybe put it on top of the left rock. Moving it will open the tank up a bit and make it look bigger. You can always keep messing around with the rocks while it is cycling too. Move it around and see what you think over a couple of days.
  7. Purchased a Hanna phosphate checker because my regular test kit wasnt showing anything. Well, the Hanna is saying 0.00 ppm. I removed my Phosguard and will continue to feed like normal. My question is this. Once my phosphates get to .02/.03, can I put in a smaller amount of Phosguard? Or will that just keep stripping the water down to 0?
  8. Are you trying to get bacteria that consume nitrates in the filter? (ex. Seachem's de-nitrates?) For de-nitrates the flow is very important to get the proper bacteria growing to consume nitrates. A standard HOB will have too much flow to get this bacteria. Most HOBs are used for chemical and mechanical filtration.
  9. I feed 4 times a week. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Keep it consistent so you can watch your nitrates/phosphates. Adjust accordingly.
  10. If your coral are fine, I would keep running the reactor. If you want to raise phosphates up, start feeding a little heavier.
  11. Yeah my initial thought is that as well, but I've seen other people's tanks with them in very high light with good extension and color. Mine are not in a extreme high light situation and I know they can thrive in high light. Makes me wonder about some trace element maybe....
  12. I have 3 different GSP in my tank. Two encrusting and 1 branching. Both encrusting versions started off very bright and long. Eventually they lost the vibrant color and the polyps became much shorter. Would too much light do this? Too little? Is there a trace element (iodine/strontium/etc.) that would effect the polyp length/color over time?
  13. There are sources that say high nitrites does stall the cycle. Others say it doesn't. Regardless, even Dr. Tim's instructions say to do water changes if ammonia or nitrite get above 5ppm. They also state it could slow the cycle. https://www.drtimsaquatics.com/resources/fishless-cycling My 10g cycle probably would have lasted 40+ days if I did not do water changes to reduce nitrites.
  14. LOL that makes a big difference. I would guess it is the light then. From the pictures, it looks like the polyps on the bottom (shaded) are browning more so than the top. Points to not enough light. I would increase the % or drop it down lower and adjust from there (while watching closely for bleaching)
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