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About OldManSea

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    Seattle WA area

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  1. Wheels under tank support - smart or stupid?

    I just recalled that the rubber wheels are the kind that are sometimes placed under heavy appliances like refrigerators. We had a bank of -80’s along a wall and they were readily moveable by even a small person since the wheels rolled so well without resistance.
  2. Wheels under tank support - smart or stupid?

    I had a friend who had a 50 gallon tank on wheels. It worked great. The magic is to use the wide heavy rubber wheels - they support very high weight and don’t dig into the floor. With those wheels there was no “lurch” to get the stand moving so the water stayed put. I saw a basement fish room on YouTube that had several large tanks on wheels. It allowed the second level of tanks to be just a few inches above the hoods on the tanks of the first level. To access, the tanks on the lower level were just pulled out from under the second level.
  3. Cyphastrea have become favorites of mine as well!
  4. Another great source for tank raised photosynthetic gorgonians is Pacific East Aquaculture. Nice variety, too.
  5. Wanted to share the journey so far of my pico reef

    That’s a nice looking tank! Very well done.
  6. Pod "Farm"

    I will be following along. Just this morning I set up to grow “tigger pods.” I have started with Phytofeast as the food but when I picked up the pods yesterday I see that Reed Mariculture has recently issued a new instruction sheet that suggests their SDaquarist blend of organisms works even better. I will order a bottle of that through my lfs to avoid the shipping cost. Keep is updated!
  7. I did receive 4 gobies, which are doing great. They are very active and eat like pigs - tigger pods, ricordea pellets and even flake food. I have ordered the shrimp 3 times when they were listed as in stock, but they quickly run out - this is Live Aquaria, who did send an email message apologizing. They said they have about 20 people on the email alert list and they are only getting 2 or 3 at a time from their collectors at this time of year so the shrimp are gone within a few minutes of the alert going out. KP Aquatics also said this is a really difficult time to collect them. I had to try for the gobies 3 times before hitting the jackpot. I had never before seen live green banded gobies which is surprising since they occur in the Florida keys, and back in the late 60s when I was keeping fish, they were never around. Hundreds of new gobies though. It has been forever since I bred clowns. I think I will give the gobies a whirl. They seem to be easy to raise now that the most appropriate rotifers are known. Of the 4 that came in, one is about twice as large as the other 3 so that one should develop as a male and most or all of the others as females.
  8. Well, this tiny reef has now made it for just over a year. Many of the original inhabitants are still in it and some others that grew too large are still living in my Red Sea Max 170. The inhabitants I have had since the end of January 2017 include a blue/green Duncan that was placed in this tank when it had 3 heads. It was very happy and by the time it reached 10 heads, I had to move it to the larger tank, where it now has more than 30 heads. A Cespitularia was added at the same time as the Duncan. It never looked right in this tank so it also moved to the larger tank where its main trunk is now more than an inch in diameter and I have to frag it every month, usually making 2-4 offspring, which grow really fast. Tanks in my part of Puget Sound area are now saturated with them. Finally, there was a frag of green star polyps, also fragged many times since then to keep it small, and 3 different zoa frags. Two of those continue to look good but one suddenly declined in December and was gone within a few days. I was traveling so did not have an opportunity to remove it and treat with hydrogen peroxide and iodine (I had a rapidly declining zoa frag in the other tank and treated with concentrated iodine for 15 minutes followed after washing with 50% hydrogen peroxide for 5 minutes. It looked like hell for a couple of days but then rapidly recovered and looks great now with steadily increasing number of polyps 5 months later). Soon after these initial creatures, I added an ORA red goniopora from the lfs. This coral was my pride and joy for several months and added a lot of polyps. Then overnight it became covered with a white slime and some of the polyps liquefied. I pulled it and treated with iodine. It is still alive several months later and sits on the floor of the tank. It had no polyp extension for a couple of months but for the past month, some of the polyps do extend for a few hours each day. When I feed Reef Roids all the polyps feed even though most don't extend (you can see this sad remnant on the floor in the FTS on the right side of the image with some of the polyps extended). I should probably discard this coral but since it was my favorite, I cant make myself part with it. I have no idea what suddenly happened to it. It has been hanging on and has recently shown small signs of improvement...(sure, sure).... Beginning at the end of February last year, I added several ricordeas and acans, as well as a gorgonian and an Utter Chaos frag with 3 polyps. The ricordeas and acans are still with me as well as some newer additions from August and September. Recently, a green mushroom that was added for color grew fast and blasted two of the acans it touched - you can see them at 1 and 3 o'clock in the FTS. The green mushroom is now in a new home. Hopefully the acans will recover. I had an acan in the larger tank shredded by a crab. There was a small part of one head left. After only a few weeks that head recovered and now the colony looks better than it did before it was attacked, so I will just feed the injured parties well and see what happens. At the end of February a red and a green monti cap were added. They were getting large and shading out the ricordeas so I removed the red one and manipulated the green one to make it less shady underneath. I must have left a nubbin of the red one since it is now growing back. I hate to think I will have to remove both of them but in this very narrow tank, I cant afford any shade. I also added a monti setosa which never did well and has finally died. Sadly, the Utter Chaos never acclimated well to this tank and they are also now gone. In April I glued a light blue-with-orange mouths Cyphastrea to the back wall. It has grown to about 6 times its initial size (the slightly thicker area at the bottom left) after a new tank setback for its first couple of months during which it turned brown and did not grow. The color recovered over the next couple of months and it is quite vibrant now. It may have been shocked by too bright light at first since it is near the top of this deep tank which has a Nanobox Tide Mini at very high output to light the bottom. It is certainly used to the light now. I have actually fragged pieces off the right side to give to interested people or it would be larger yet. In January the lfs received from a hobbyist 10 Alveopora frags that were made from a colony that had gotten too large. I bought one and placed it where the goniopora used to be. Hopefully it will do well. I am told the mother colony has been here in captivity in Washington for about 4 years so it does have a track record. Late in 2017 I added another encrusting Cyphastrea, an orange one. I need to glue it as it is quite attractive and has covered its plug and mounded up on it. I also obtained a branching Cyphastrea decadia which has begun to grow a bit. I really like this little coral. While it looks colorful in the image it is actually a much more intense blue and the polyps are much redder. I have not been able to adequately capture the colors. Jason Fox has a similar one on his web site - looking at his image will give a better idea of the actual coloration of this one. Here are the ricordeas. All the big ones have been in the tank for just over a year. While the green one divided early on, now they just get bigger and bigger. A couple of them have 4 mouths. You can also see the vibrant coloration of the green monti cap. There is another montipora visible in the top down shot at about 2 o'clock, with the green polyps. I have had it for many months now and it is probably 3 times as massive as it was. It is a piece from a huge mounding from display tank at the lfs. It has done really well. That is a long-winded run down of this tank at the end of its first year. I have three fish, Goby Dillis a small green Gobiodon goby, an ocellaris clown that was rescued from its siblings in the larger tank and which one day I may take to the lfs, and a Geometric Pygmy Hawkfish, Pete Plectranthias. Overall I have been quite pleased. I have run into some issues and lost a few corals but overall, for a new tank and a raw, new reefer, I have been quite happy. I change "100%" of the water every week - that is, I squirt the rock thoroughly, then siphon down to about an inch from the medium, then fill the tank, squirt some more and empty to near the medium a second time. This has led to great stability of parameters. I do add a bit of nitrate and phosphate after each water change since otherwise both are essentially zero. I used to have carbon and granulated ferric oxide but stopped using both about 6 months ago - the water changes keep everything spic-and-span. After I stopped stripping the water the colors of the Montipora's improved dramatically. The ricordeas and acans will be allowed to continue to grow out. I need to figure out what to add to fill the space recently vacated by the mushroom and to add some flesh to the bare parts of the upper third of the rock. Whatever goes there has to stay close to the rock to avoid shadowing. Still thinking....
  9. This guy came out of a tube today? No clue .

    You will end up with many of these bristleworms over time. They are good scavengers. Many species grow very long.
  10. Designer BTA's and Coloration

    There are a lot of notions about why tentacles are long or have bubble tips. My largest, which is about nine inches across will have very long tentacles for a few weeks then I will look one morning and they are short with bubbles and stay that way for a few weeks. Sometimes they will have large bubbles near the oral disk but with very long, thin extensions. It has not moved in several months and gets the same light and food all the time. I do notice that the larger it has gotten, more time is spent with long, thin tentacles.
  11. I have Pederson shrimp and green-banded gobies coming. I looked on fishbase at all Atlantic gobies and then focused on Florida and green banded showed up as being collected in 80% of survey collections along the western islands of tHe Keys including Key West. I see them included in other slightly larger tanks so I decided to try them. If they don’t work out I can move them to the “big” 5.6 gallon tank. I think I will have to move one the RFA’s to the larger RFA tank.
  12. Here is the January 2018 FTS The main update is that the mangroves are beginning to leaf out - finally! The roots are getting very long and growing smaller side roots. It will be great to have leaves as well. The corals and anemones continue to do well and the macro algae is looking very nice. I remove some every couple of weeks now. I am surprised that 4 RFAs are doing well in this small tank. I still intend to remove one since this is a lot. But with the 100% water change every week the nitrate and phosphate stay nice and low. I continue to scrape coralline algae every week but in these closeup's there is a lot at the sand level. I will have to get a finer plastic scraper. Next in will be a Pedersen shrimp - can more than one be kept in a tank or will they fight? I am still tempted to add a small fish, a goby or blennie to add some more movement. Fish don't often get added to such small tanks so I will think about it for a time yet. I want a species native to Florida or close by but this time of year makes it tough to source one.
  13. You can go to the drug store and buy a bottle of "povidone iodine." It is basically the same as lugols. I use it on all my new purchases.
  14. Red Sea Max Nano (20 gal)

    Do get a protein skimmer - it and the lighting are the most important equipment you will have. I have Red Sea Max 170 and I have added an in-cabinet sump. If you have not seen it, take a look at the “52 weeks of reefing” videos at Bulk Reef Supply. Episode 44 is all about what you can do and how to do it, with the Reefkeeper Lite. I took inspiration from that episode to have pH and temperature probes, and I do heater control, ATO reservoir low alarm, ATO pump off if low alarm, dosers for calcium and alkalinity, the following pumps on feed delay: sump return pump, rear reservoir circulation pump, 2 intank circulation pumps and protein skimmer pump (I do the extra delay described in the video with the protein skimmer); Cheato algae reactor off if pH is above 8.3. I don’t have the lights on it since I have the AI Hydra and it’s controller is awesome. Reefkeeper does not have modules to do fancy control of intank circulation pumps so I use the Vortech and Jebao controllers for them (I have one of each).