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ServingAces15

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  1. ServingAces15

    Tank Moving Advice

    I was not expecting so much feedback! Thank you everyone. After reading everything, I think I will replace most of the sand, with the exception of a cup full to seed the new stand. I am moving into my new home 2 days before the wedding so I think I will buy 2 more 5 gallon buckets and bring RO/DI water when I move everything else in. This way I will have plenty of water waiting at the apartment that can be kept at the proper temperature and everything. Thanks again for the advice. I greatly appreciate all of it.
  2. ServingAces15

    Tank Moving Advice

    Hey all! So I am getting married in less than 2 months and I am moving a state away, 230 miles (4 hour drive), from my current home. I have a Fluval 13.5 Evo with the following stock: 2 Ocellaris clownfish 2 blue legged hermits 1 scarlet legged hermit 3-4 assorted snailed (turbo, nassarius, etc) 1 pom pom crab 1 fighting conch hammer coral (on sand) duncan coral (on sand) pulsing xenia (on rockwork) I'm currently piecing together a 'game plan' for moving my tank and I am asking for advice and tips as to help the move to be as smooth as possible. This tank is my 'baby' and I recently lost a pearly jawfish (which I had only had for 2 weeks before losing it) and my female clown (which has since been replaced..sort of, you all know how clownfish work so my male will now become female....Squirt is now Squirtle) due to my tank being shut off for 27 hours. Long story short, my tank was plugged into an outlet powered by a wall switch that was turned off when a photographer came through to take pictures, as the house I currently live in was going on the market. I worked the whole day followed by spending the night away, returning the next morning to find my tank had been shut off and lost the 2 fish. Anyways, I was devastated and I would like to not go through something like that again so all advice is welcome. My current game plan is that I have 3 five gallon buckets and 1 three gallon bucket. My plan is to drain water from the tank into each bucket, leaving just enough water in the tank to cover the sand bed. One bucket would hold my clownfish, one bucket would hold my hammer and duncan corals in fish bags, all inverts directly into bucket (separated by fish breeder boxes), and the 3 live rock pieces I have that are covered with xenia. The 3 gallon bucket would be used to house all of my filter media and the remaining 5 gallon would be filled with fresh RO/DI water to use to add new water for when I arrive at the new location Finally, the tank would be covered with plastic wrap as to prevent the little bit of water from splashing out during transportation. This would allow for me to transport and reuse most of all of the current tank water to help with the tank cycle but also allow for me to have new water to add to it upon re-setup of the tank. As for water movement and heating, this is where I'm stuck. Will everyone be okay for the 4 hour drive without any kind of water movement? I know that with the car and time of year I can maintain a relatively steady temperature for the water but the aeration is my main concern. Thanks in advance!
  3. ServingAces15

    Pearly Jawfish Behavior

    My pom pom crab and of my hermit crabs enjoy short adventures in the one burrow occasionally, thanks for the advice!
  4. ServingAces15

    Pearly Jawfish Behavior

    I've had him for exactly 2 weeks today. I will create a burrow with a pvc pipe to give an extra place to hide. Thanks for the tip! Much appreciated
  5. ServingAces15

    Pearly Jawfish Behavior

    Hey all, So I recently purchased a pearly/yellow headed jawfish. This is one of my dream fish so I had performed so much research on him before I got the little guy (or girl). I've had him for about a week now and I've noticed that he has been breathing heavily, mouth gaping, ever since I bought him and exhibited some random behavior that I didn't feel was normal. He spent the first 2 days in the tank digging holes in each corner and on the third day he finally built a burrow under one of the rocks. 2 days later he's back out in one of the corners of the tank and wouldn't move into his burrow, even when startled. I have been feeding him mysis shrimp which he has been readily accepting. Another thing I noticed is that when the lights were off in the tank he was not as skittish and would spend more time in his burrow. Tank parameters are: Ammonia 0ppm Nitrites 0ppm Nitrates <10ppm Phosphate <5 pH 8.00 Salinity 1.025 Current Temp (F) 79 Other fish: Ocellaris clownfish pair (90% sure they have no idea the jawfish exists as they haven't bothered him nor do they ever swim anywhere near his burrow) These parameters were taken right before I left for a few days but the behavior hasn't changed. No noticeable redness of gills, patches on body, dots, frayed fins, etc although I will keep an eye out for any changes. I feel as though he may just be stressed so what I'm really asking is for pointers or theories of potential issues/illness from those who have experience with this fish. I have attached a photo of the fish and I have a video segment of the breathing that I can attach if needed.
  6. ServingAces15

    Fluval 13.5 Evo Light Upgrade

    The more I research, the more I'm leaning towards the prime. Thanks everyone for your input!
  7. ServingAces15

    Fluval 13.5 Evo Light Upgrade

    Awesome! I have xenia that's literally covering all of my rock work so I'll have to remove most of it since there is no space for anything to go on it. Thanks again for the advice and tips!
  8. ServingAces15

    Fluval 13.5 Evo Light Upgrade

    Thank you so much, Nick for your response. I forgot to mention in my original post that I'm thinking about selling the corals I have growing on my rock work so that I can buy a BTA. I've done tons of research on the anemone itself and its care and appears that the AI Prime would work well for it. I was wondering if you've ever owned one and if so, how that light system worked out for you?
  9. ServingAces15

    Fluval 13.5 Evo Light Upgrade

    Hey all, So I've had my Evo running for over a year now and I've made a few modifications to it. Between tax season and my birthday approaching I'm looking to upgrade the stock light. It's worked pretty well for my softies and even my hammer coral but I want a new light that I have more control with. As I'm continuing to invest into this hobby I'm learning more about the importance of good lighting, but there's just so many to choose from! So I wanted to reach out and ask those who have upgraded their Evo stock lighting, or just in general, what's your favorite lighting system and why? I'm looking to spend anywhere from $100-$250, most likely even more, to get something that's great quality.
  10. This is an awesome thread! I've been reading up for months about keeping BTA under the fluval stock light but I have yet to purchase one because my rock work is covered in xenia and I have no place to put it plus I'm hesitant that I'll kill it. As for the hood, I had the same tank temp issue over the summer. I lost my cleaner shrimp, some snails, and my entire GSP colony as my tank got up to 87 degrees F. This was my solution. I cut out a T top shape in the hood to create an open top while still being able to keep the stock light. I then installed a 2 piece fan system. This helped tremendously with tank temperature control!
  11. ServingAces15

    Teach me things you wish you knew

    As Clown79 said, do your own research and read read read! I've found that you can never do enough research. This is a hobby that requires/benefits from constant learning, which in my opinion also makes it more fun. And definitely go slow and keep it simple. It's so easy to overstock tanks or add things too quickly but you're setting yourself up for disaster if you do that. Don't skip water changes. Don't use sponges as filter media, they are nitrate factories.
  12. ServingAces15

    All fish died, d*mb accident. Why?

    I am a tiny bit confused as to which part of the return pump is being discussed, the empty space/chamber that houses the heater and the return pump or just the return pump itself? I have an evo and I run an intank media basket on it and I've cleaned the actual return pump once in the year I've had the tank running which I am now learning could be bad. If I go to clean it again how should I go about it to not have this problem and poison my clowns?
  13. ServingAces15

    Fluval Evo 13.5 Owners Thread

    Gonna join in with all of you! You all have gorgeous tanks! Here's my year old Fluval Evo. Currently running the stock light but I found that the tank overheats really quickly in the summer time so I took a table saw to the hood and created a 'T top' tank. I also added a fan to cool it in the summer. As you can see I am heavily battling GHA but this picture is 2 weeks old and it's starting to die back a bit as I just installed an InTank media basket (which I HIGHLY) recommend. I actually love this tank for what it is.
  14. ServingAces15

    Abnormal Looking GSP?

    Thank you for the pointers and recommendations! My current solution to the hood was to cut it. I've been happy with the lighting performance of the stock light I have, given the corals in my tank. Therefore, I cut the hood to create a 'mount' for the light. This allows me to run the cooling fans that came in today. My water temperature has already dropped 2 degrees and allows the top to be open and for heat to escape. I've essentially created a topless tank. I will keep everyone posted on whether or not my gsp make any progress now that the temperature is under control. I am also switching back to my old LFS for water. I will look into an ATO system when I get tired of the top offs. Thanks everyone for the advice and help.
  15. ServingAces15

    Clownfish with Ich?

    Thank you! One step ahead ahead of you as I got my 10 gallon QT tank running and I am ready for if the symptoms pop up again. Fish? Just 2 ocellaris clowns
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