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SeaFurn

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About SeaFurn

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  • Birthday 01/14/1969

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    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta

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  1. Show her this - just saw it at my LPS...how can she say no?? (Thought you’d appreciate it anyway.) (yes everyone - I know this is a reef forum!)
  2. Do you think if I move the live rock with the nems attached rather than try to get them off that should seed the new tank with micro fauna? I didn't really want to do that considering I'm paranoid about fire worms and sea spiders still....but I don't think I'm going to be able get them off safely.
  3. Some of yours might be mature enough by fall I bet. It's cool for sure...but it can be frustrating trying to keep track of all the babies...let alone keeping them alive! I think I'm pretty lucky and it's pretty amazing that I've still got 40 of them. Obsessed me was was hoping they would spawn again this spring but it hasn't happened and there's no sign it will. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with water quality. My tank has had way more nutrients in it than ever before with some GHA showing up that I've been pulling out each week. It's not overwhelming the tank but I was hoping to keep it at bay.
  4. Cube looks great! I think the 75g is probably best suited for the bearded dragon given those cracks. I wouldn’t trust that seam with 75g of water pressing against it.
  5. Here's a few shots from Instagram over the last couple of weeks. I have 40 baby RFAs still! While there are doing very well, I think 35 of them are very viable. 5 are still small and require extra care (daily feeding). I've got the bigger tank up and running and moved the clowns to it (yes, I still need to start the thread for that one) but I'm concerned about moving them to such a clean tank with no micro fauna in it. I guess I'm just as concerned about moving the adults to it. Any suggestions as to how long I should run the new tank before moving the nems to it?
  6. Why cycle a tank if doing 100% water changes???

    Because your not going to do 100% water changes every day. I’m simplifying here but the biofilter that gets created during the cycle will process the ammonia into less harmful nitrates between water changes. Then water changes are the method of export of the nitrates and other stuff that algae uses to grow and the replenishment of beneficial elements needed for your reef to grow and thrive.
  7. Happy 17th Birthday Nano-Reef Community! 🎉

    Congrats N-R community! And a big thank you to CM! I’ve only been here for a little over a year but love this place!
  8. 3, 5, or 13.5 gal?

    13.5. Perfect size tank for what you want to do...plus it will allow you to get more corals and a fish if you decide you want to do that.
  9. M-A-T-T-Y Fluval Evo 13.5

    Since the tank is cycled you have biological filtration on the rocks and sand in the tank. You will be fine just running the pump inside the tank until you get more water. Just put the heater inside the display while you do that. Plenty if people run their tanks “dirty” like that. You may want to put a piece of tape on the tank to indicate the current water level so you can top it off to that mark as evaporation occurs.
  10. Been eyeing an Inkbird and have a question

    I don’t use the good old fashioned thermometer with mine any longer. The controller proved to be reliable after a couple of months. Plus, I found myself checking the digital temp display more often than I would the glass thermometer. This is the way I keep an eye on it still though: I use a separate digital thermometer (the cheap kind from amazon) that I use when mixing water. I check the tank temp with it first, then mix the water and match that temp. It’s generally 0.5 degree different than the inkbird. So as long as it’s that way when I go to change the water each week I know everything is still working. The probe on mine rusted and I siliconed it like Clown79 did. I’d recommend doing that from the start if you get one.
  11. UNS 3n

    That’s a good sign. I think I’d keep doing the frequent water changes and press on.
  12. Inkbird issues

    What wattage is your heater? Make sure it’s set at 79 or 80 (just slightly higher than the controller) so that it comes on right when the controller triggers it.
  13. Inkbird issues

    HD is the heating differential. I’d rather the tank temp not fluctuate but considering 1 degree is smallest increment this controller is capable of that’s what it should be set at.
  14. Inkbird issues

    That’s weird. I don’t have my settings in front of me but with what you have listed it seems it should turn it on at 78. That’s what mine does. Double check the Hd you set?
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