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About Torqued

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  1. Yes. Unfortunately he replied to the issue I sent in two days ago when I couldn't log in, and didn't know the imp was dead at the time. Emailed him couple times since then and no replies yet. Hope to hear back soon. I can't have my lights off for long!
  2. I have a blue led lit on the unit...but the status light on the imp card never blinks. If it was working but disconnected, it would have a red light... If it was no power I wouldn't have the blue light lit. Seems like a bad imp card to me....but it would be nice if support would contact me!
  3. Mine is not blinking at all.....even when it power cycled it is not flashing green indicating it connected.
  4. Unfortunately that did not work :(. I'm not sure if the card is bad or what, but it will not blink.... I'm dead in the water right now and getting rather uptight!
  5. Last night my lights failed to ramp down as they normally do at night. I rebooted the device, lights did not come back on (as expected because it was time for them to be off). However after I was unable to login...I was getting a ClassCast Java exception in the app. This morning I rebooted both my router and the mini (did the mini several times). I also uninstalled the app and reinstalled it...I am now able to login, but the device is offline. The mini appears is not functioning. The blue light indicating power is on but the imp card never flashes, even after a reboot. Need help folks....
  6. My build Thanks to everyone who helped! Especially big shout out to O2Surplus...he was a big help, as were some of you on these boards, particularly when I needed help in the troubleshooting phase.... Thanks again!
  7. Torqued

    In Desperate Need of HELP!

    THANK YOU GUYS!!!! You got me looking more closely at something i took for granted. It turns out that the molex connectors came in two types. Channel 1 on the right, going to channel 5 on left, and the opposite. I had not realized this, and thought they were all the same. To make matters worse, i had done this on ALL 6 LEDs. So it wasnt even obvious that something was wrong on 1 or 2, but all 3 pairs of lumias, so that made it harder to discover something out of whack. Anyway, you were right, the proper ground wires were not connecting to the proper channel. Once i used the right connectors on the ground/output side, everything was gravy. I will also say, dont be a freggin idiot and plug your AC cord into your DC input for your PCB by mistake. That cost me $50 in 5 new drivers and two SCWs.....Feel like a major bonehead for that one. Thank God I didnt blow up the Bluefish or the arduino on the PCB. I thought for sure i had toasted the entire card, including the BF, and PCB. So instead of being out about $200, im only out $50. I will say that is one problem with this type of stuff. Directions are pretty limited, so if you havent done it before, mistakes like these are very easily made. Of course if I was to build this thing again, I could do it in 25% of the time, and no mistakes lol.... Thx again!
  8. Torqued

    In Desperate Need of HELP!

    Hey folks, I need some help here. I just got my entire build together, hooked up my bluefish, and it is NOT WORKING! I have a lumia 5.2 build, using O2Surplus PCBs. Here is what is happening, and what I have found thusfar. First. The only channel working is channel 3. The BF will control that perfectly fine, and since I have the fans enabled on that channel, they also work perfect. HOWEVER, no other channel will work. I have tried damn near everything on that PCB to get the thing working but it simply will not fire any channel other than 3. Yes, I have all 5 channels enabled on the channel select using jumpers. I have NO Channel Gang jumpers being used - All LDD Drivers are in correctly - I have tested each channel on each Lumia with a DC pwr supply at 12v/500ma and ALL LEDs fire, so I didnt blow any LEDs I tested the Voltage coming off of the BF and there is voltage on every channel. I also unhooked the LED connectors and tested voltage at the pins, and there WAS voltage, so WTF?!??!?! How the hell can I have voltage across the molex pins, but not have the LEDs light? Is it possible my powersupplies are bad, and cant produce enough power? Honestly I am going nutts here and willing to try just about anything. I think my next step is to dismount the PCBs and test the pins on the rear of the PCB to see if the drivers are transferring power. I also enabled channel 6, although I dont have any LEDs hooked to that channel, and I DID have voltage across the In side where the LDD would go. So I put a spare LDD on that channel, and i DID get voltage through to the LED output pins....so I powered down, and tranferred one of the non-working channels to channel six....then NOTHING. That channel actually stopped working after that, until I powered down and powered back up. It almost seems like something is tripping the drivers and they are shutting themselves off. Help me guys, I got about $1400 invested in this damn thing and I am about to pull my hair out
  9. Not sure the rules, but here is a build I did on our club forum http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=105242
  10. Torqued

    Lumia 5.2 with or without Lenses

    roger that! No lenses it is!
  11. Hey folks, I am wondering about the need for lenses for the lumia 5.2. I do plan on running SPS in my 6 foot tank, and have bought 6 Lumias for what I think should be adequate coverage. The question is, do I use lenses or not? If i did go with them, i would use the wide angle version, not the narrow, because my tank is only 24" deep. The question is, am I wasting my money, or worse yet, actually worse off with lenses? My thought is that without lenses I may be wasting alot of light that is illuminating the inside of the canopy, rather than directed down into the tank if I forgo them..... Thoughts are appreciated!
  12. Torqued

    1500ma LDD with Lumia 5.2

    Here is my 75g. You may very well be right on the too much light thing. Unfortunateley for me, my inexperience (this was my first aquarium EVER), I had the opposite problem that most people have. My tank was actually too sterile. My nitrate/No4 were nearly zero. Both registered zero on my Salifert kits (back in 06-07). My colors were washed out...growth was slow. So i thought it had to be not enough light. So i converted my lights to what my buddy had, whos colors were AMAZING. He ran 400w XM20k.. so i replicated his setup. In retrospect, my problems were simply not feeding enough, and the lighting I had prior was almost certainly sufficent. For that reason, I am confident that the 6 lumias with 100par should be enough now....but my thought was why not get some drivers than CAN put out a lil more par if i choose...thats all. At this point its probably more trouble than its worth. I dont want to have to run two diff power supplies. This was my buddy's tank I was trying to replicate:
  13. Torqued

    1500ma LDD with Lumia 5.2

    its 24", its not a matter of NEED really....though I will say that while the PAR levels of these lights are good, they still dont compare to when I ran 400w halides on a my 75g tank that was nearly all SPS. I was getting about 1200 par near the water surface and about 400 on the sandbed. even 6 of these on a 6 foot tank seems to get you only ~100ish par on a 24" deep sandbed....would you agree
  14. Torqued

    1500ma LDD with Lumia 5.2

    I planning to use some PCBs that support the 1500L meanwell driver. Given that two of the Lumia channels are rated at 1500ma, I was considering getting some of those 1500ma drivers. However, my concern is that the voltage must be 36v not 48v. I plan to run 3 PCBs each driving 2 Lumia 5.2s totally 6 Lumias. I was hoping I could just use 36v powersupply to drive all channels, rather than a 48v, but given that there are channels rated at 18v, that would appear to max out the voltage at exactly 36v. I am guessing I should not do that, but am very interested in thoughts? If I was going to use a 1500ma driver, would I need to have both a 36v and a 48v powersupply(s)???
  15. Torqued

    Lumia 5.2 Channel Dimming

    Evil, I think thats not accurate, The Bluefish controller (the one I plan to use) does 5v, or 0-10v,