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Teebo

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About Teebo

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  1. I am entering this hobby from the freshwater planted tank side, I got bored. I am more interested in the plants than the fish, so you can say I am now 50/50 between plants and coral....the fish are just there to compliment them and I have a much more interesting choice of fish now but that is besides the subject. I am absolutely doing a display refugium, I may even start off with a planted marine tank and just have fun with that for now. I am almost guaranteed success by entering this reef hobby backwards. Anyways I have just recently moved from MA to FL, specifically South West shore. I have been exploring the coast line and now I am all excited...yes it is all protected but come on I am talking about a very small tank and I will propagate and put the same amount back into the wild where I found it. I am on the hunt now for anything I can see green along the coast, I have red, black and white Mangroves, Railroad Vine, I see what appears to be a green moss in the roots of Mangrove bogs, what else is out there? I know there are many types of micro algae in the hobby already, but I am focusing on emerging plants right now. I heard Brazilian Pepper is invasive to FL trying to compete with the Mangroves, that may be a choice. Of the three types of Mangroves, which is most common in the hobby? Which is the better nutrient exporter? I see that the white Mangrove has the smallest leaves (rounded) so that may be a major factor in choice...
  2. Saltwater Vine?

    Its just a regular old freshwater vine, very, very, common in the freshwater hobby to grow plants and vines emerging out of your tank. I do not have a photo of it on hand Photobucket trashed all my photos. Google "Riparium" Good info, constantly on the search for anything green that will tolerate salt water!
  3. Saltwater Vine?

    What do you mean? I said I like growing vines OUT OF my tank not in it. As in the root system is in the tank and the foliage is outside the tank. I have a Pothos vine with the lower leaves removed, the vine grows out of my tank and around my house, constantly exporting nutrients. Unless this vine requires a new root site every X-distance it grows I do not see how it would not work?
  4. Saltwater Vine?

    I love growing vines, mainly Pothos out of my freshwater tanks but there is not much other than the 3 species of Mangroves to grow out of saltwater. I live in Florida and I pay attention to anything green along the shore line other than the mangroves. I noticed this vine growing out of salty sand and toward the water, can anyone identify it? If I can obtain some of this I thought it would be a great experiment!
  5. Show off your Freshwater!

    Try overdosing Excel before you turn the lights off. Lights on + Excel grow plants and algae. Lights off + Excel attacks the algae alone. Because bio load alone is not enough to grow plants efficiently, at least not all species. The food/bio load only has minimal traces of fertilizers required for a booming tank. Its not a marking scheme, and it does not cause algae problems when done correctly in balance. I hate waiting for my tanks for grow in so I fertilize them. The same way Baby Tears will live in medium light without CO2, but they will not grow or spread. When your tank is where you want it you dial back the ferts and CO2. The tanks I have now have already been posted in this thread, just scroll up or back. I have no algae issues. I was not being defensive, I am just a little bitter lately. If anyone wants info on my tanks PM me.
  6. Show off your Freshwater!

    It really depends how deep into it you go, with a tank as pictured its certainly not complicated chemistry...when you dive into complicated species of plants and carpets the curve changes. See you said it yourself you do not dose traces because it contributes to your algae. Add it, then find a way to prevent the algae through chemistry, when your using the full lineup of fertilizers as many of us are, keeping algae at bay becomes the chemistry challenge. Nothing wrong with low tech tanks, they just grow slowly and are limited on plant choices. You take out the nutrients in SW that FW adds through dosing. Actually, that is incorrect. CO2 feeds algae, the point of CO2 is to accelerate the plants growth which consumes nutrients at a rate that it leaves algae competing for nutrients with the plants. If you think you can just throw a CO2 system on a FW tank and watch the algae vanish you will be quite surprised. CO2 makes the plants consume the nutrients we add to our tanks fast enough to grow the plant but strip it from the water column fast enough that algae can not consume it. See where one thing builds on another and how chemistry can soon become a regular thing in FW?
  7. Show off your Freshwater!

    I forget it was so long ago when I bought it I have a massive box of eBay LED bulbs...I am constantly finding better bulb solutions. Sorry I do not have a model number for you, possibly a PAR20 in the 15W range. Iwagumi is doing well I had to remove half my Embers to balance it out, I have come to the conclusion Iwagumi tanks need a sump refugium to counter the lack of greenery exporting nutrients...just grow hand fulls of Java Moss in the sump or something because carpets do not absorb as much nutrients as my other tanks. Good lord that is a lot of work great job! This is true, and is a current discussion of mine on TPT forum. Luckily in reefing there are only a few supplements required, with freshwater lots of the chemistry is way over my head you actually need a good foothold in knowledge of fertilizers and botany. Algae is a nightmare as we keep our tanks nutrient levels high, we actually put in what you take out. You can dabble with metricide to control your algae and give your plants the carbon they need to form new structure (grow). I am taking a major step back from my FW tanks, they consume too much of my time.
  8. Thank you for your response! I think what my question comes down to now is the balancing of pH/photosynthesis. Too bad I do not have a way of actively measuring this. I am unsure how much photosynthesis occurs in general with the corals internal algae. The goal of many is to not only export nutrients but to use reverse lighting to keep a constant photosynthesis = smaller pH swing. Inch for inch I am curious "how much" photosynthesis occurs between corals and micro-algae, if corals photosynthesis twice as much per inch in theory you would need a refugium twice the size of your display to keep the most consistent pH. In this theory adding Mangroves no matter how slow their growth is contributing to the high level of display photosynthesis occurring. However, with the leaves being above the water I am not sure there is any "water column photosynthesis" occurring, just strictly nutrient uptake where the micro-algae has green surface area in the water column. I come from a very balanced freshwater background, so balancing my SW system is a goal and also why a display refugium is a must-extension of the SW hobby for me. I will deff be designing a tank based around Mangroves.
  9. Thank you for your time, much appreciated.
  10. Using a 1/2" hole saw how close can I safely come to the upper and outer edges of the glass? The tank is rimless. Thanks
  11. I have been enjoying learning about the real reef systems in nature over the last few years, and all the hype about global warming and the coral bleaching events. I realize a bleached coral does not mean it is necessarily completely dead or doomed but with the cycle occurring over and over lately it is making me think on a much greater scale. If the rise of ocean temps are the scape goat on reef destruction in the future, then why worry. They will just slowly settle in on cooler areas of the ocean, I think more of the ocean is cold then warm anyway so that is a lot of "time" left. I realize there are other factors than just temp for relocation success but if the temp is the leading cause then reefs are bound to slowly shift away from the equator right?
  12. This is a powerful statement for me that backs up what I was leaning toward. The amount of nutrient uptake I believe is what determines how much it can effect the pH right? I will keep my Mangroves in the display than, I can literally walk into my backyard and grab a Bonsai looking Mangrove. Depending on how dense of a Mangrove I grab it may compete with the macro algae no? I really do not have much headroom down there anyway.
  13. Thank you, if I use large (very large) mangrove trees would you try keeping them in the refugium for pH reasons or in the main display for more head room? I figured keeping everything that consumes nitrates in the bottom it will help stabilize pH during the reverse lighting cycle. Do coral photosynthesis like the mangrove would? If so I should try keeping them in the bottom to balance out the amount of photosynthesis occurring in both tanks?
  14. I have been long picking at this "lower maintenance" specific setup using a 16G display over an 8G refugium. That means the refugium makes up 1/3 of the total system volume. I am heavily into the art of FW aquascaping so I am confident I can pull off an amazing looking planted SW tank (aka refugium). This is all about nutrient export and water quality, well lit on a night cycle to help with pH consistency. I know some use a method of breaking up the light in smaller cycles to prevent algae from peaking in FW but this may screw up coral growth since they rely on internal algae. If anyone does not know what I am talking about my LFS uses it on their FW display...4 hours on, 4 hours off, 4 hours on, 12 hours off. The small tank is actually 8.5G it has 3 of the same dimensions as a 10G here it is next to one. I need as much of the space in this for display as possible so the return pump will be in a central weir tower with a heater that heats both tanks (same system). Have not figured out my mechanical filtration method yet, but I will not use a skimmer. It will be a really clean setup if I can only figure out how to insert mechanical filtration into the loop...I have a few ideas.
  15. Show off your Freshwater!

    Sure, its a 2 oz. finger spray bottle I gutted...this is one next to one of my 3 oz. fert dosing bottles. I had a Whisper 3i laying around, so I removed the bottom air lift tube which has a nicer design than just an airstone in a tube (diy version). I cut the spray bottle down, made a hole for the air tube then drilled out the spray head base to snugly fit the lift tube. I made a sponge to fit with enough sticking out of the bottom for shrimp to graze on. Here is the back of the tank, I am using an idler valve to control the flow rate then above that I have a check valve. I am using a bent glass tube to wrap over the top lip of the tank, it also keeps the filter where I want it...no need for a suction cup! I made later revisions to the cap where the output of this filter is I can post if you want but I do not want to hijack this thread. I could post a link to this filters build on another forum site but that may not be allowed here.
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