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Teebo

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About Teebo

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  1. Thank you for your response! I think what my question comes down to now is the balancing of pH/photosynthesis. Too bad I do not have a way of actively measuring this. I am unsure how much photosynthesis occurs in general with the corals internal algae. The goal of many is to not only export nutrients but to use reverse lighting to keep a constant photosynthesis = smaller pH swing. Inch for inch I am curious "how much" photosynthesis occurs between corals and micro-algae, if corals photosynthesis twice as much per inch in theory you would need a refugium twice the size of your display to keep the most consistent pH. In this theory adding Mangroves no matter how slow their growth is contributing to the high level of display photosynthesis occurring. However, with the leaves being above the water I am not sure there is any "water column photosynthesis" occurring, just strictly nutrient uptake where the micro-algae has green surface area in the water column. I come from a very balanced freshwater background, so balancing my SW system is a goal and also why a display refugium is a must-extension of the SW hobby for me. I will deff be designing a tank based around Mangroves.
  2. Thank you for your time, much appreciated.
  3. Using a 1/2" hole saw how close can I safely come to the upper and outer edges of the glass? The tank is rimless. Thanks
  4. I have been enjoying learning about the real reef systems in nature over the last few years, and all the hype about global warming and the coral bleaching events. I realize a bleached coral does not mean it is necessarily completely dead or doomed but with the cycle occurring over and over lately it is making me think on a much greater scale. If the rise of ocean temps are the scape goat on reef destruction in the future, then why worry. They will just slowly settle in on cooler areas of the ocean, I think more of the ocean is cold then warm anyway so that is a lot of "time" left. I realize there are other factors than just temp for relocation success but if the temp is the leading cause then reefs are bound to slowly shift away from the equator right?
  5. This is a powerful statement for me that backs up what I was leaning toward. The amount of nutrient uptake I believe is what determines how much it can effect the pH right? I will keep my Mangroves in the display than, I can literally walk into my backyard and grab a Bonsai looking Mangrove. Depending on how dense of a Mangrove I grab it may compete with the macro algae no? I really do not have much headroom down there anyway.
  6. Thank you, if I use large (very large) mangrove trees would you try keeping them in the refugium for pH reasons or in the main display for more head room? I figured keeping everything that consumes nitrates in the bottom it will help stabilize pH during the reverse lighting cycle. Do coral photosynthesis like the mangrove would? If so I should try keeping them in the bottom to balance out the amount of photosynthesis occurring in both tanks?
  7. I have been long picking at this "lower maintenance" specific setup using a 16G display over an 8G refugium. That means the refugium makes up 1/3 of the total system volume. I am heavily into the art of FW aquascaping so I am confident I can pull off an amazing looking planted SW tank (aka refugium). This is all about nutrient export and water quality, well lit on a night cycle to help with pH consistency. I know some use a method of breaking up the light in smaller cycles to prevent algae from peaking in FW but this may screw up coral growth since they rely on internal algae. If anyone does not know what I am talking about my LFS uses it on their FW display...4 hours on, 4 hours off, 4 hours on, 12 hours off. The small tank is actually 8.5G it has 3 of the same dimensions as a 10G here it is next to one. I need as much of the space in this for display as possible so the return pump will be in a central weir tower with a heater that heats both tanks (same system). Have not figured out my mechanical filtration method yet, but I will not use a skimmer. It will be a really clean setup if I can only figure out how to insert mechanical filtration into the loop...I have a few ideas.
  8. Show off your Freshwater!

    Sure, its a 2 oz. finger spray bottle I gutted...this is one next to one of my 3 oz. fert dosing bottles. I had a Whisper 3i laying around, so I removed the bottom air lift tube which has a nicer design than just an airstone in a tube (diy version). I cut the spray bottle down, made a hole for the air tube then drilled out the spray head base to snugly fit the lift tube. I made a sponge to fit with enough sticking out of the bottom for shrimp to graze on. Here is the back of the tank, I am using an idler valve to control the flow rate then above that I have a check valve. I am using a bent glass tube to wrap over the top lip of the tank, it also keeps the filter where I want it...no need for a suction cup! I made later revisions to the cap where the output of this filter is I can post if you want but I do not want to hijack this thread. I could post a link to this filters build on another forum site but that may not be allowed here.
  9. They still can, I will post the eBay link when its up. I feel it could fetch top dollar (for its size) at the condition its in. Probably upwards of $75...one just sold for $60. I bought it knowing if I did not use it I would resell it, eBay is a side hobby of mine.
  10. If I were to use this I would certainly place glass over the slate and seal the inside with silicone. I have now accepted the fact this will make a horrible SW tank, specifically the inner lip at the top. I already have enough FW tank projects, and have outgrown the nano tanks for a while (besides for SW) so I decided to sell it on eBay. Oh well it was a neat concept, I will find another tank to start my long planned nano reef.
  11. Show off your Freshwater!

    I use various different LED PAR20 and PAR30 bulbs, constantly changing. They are all bought off eBay from China...however they have never failed me. I have a box of assorted LED bulbs now lol.
  12. Show off your Freshwater!

    Thank you, I have raised thousands of RCS but I give them away because nobody locally is interested in buying them. I do not feel comfortable shipping them or else I would sell them on eBay since I am a regular powerseller. I made a custom air driven filter for that tiny tank as well.
  13. Show off your Freshwater!

    I have 4 planted tanks. Starting with the smallest I have a 0.5 gallon pico with 2 red cherry shrimp. I have a 5 gallon I planted for my grandmother, I maintain it for her...it has red cherry shrimp, horned Nerite snails, and Celestial Pearl Danios. I have a 5 gallon tall tank as well, with red cherry shrimp, horned Nerite snails, and a Betta. Tons of mods to this tank, all my tank journals are on TPT though. Lastly I have my newest addition which is more of a work in progress, a 16 gallon (15.8) cornerless bowfront Iwagumi. I had 18 Ember Tetra in here but downsized to 7 in preparation to switch over to Espei. Rasbora or Hengeli Rasbora.
  14. Thanks for all your helpful replies, great points here! If silicone bonding to slate is an issue, I can always smash out the bottom and install a piece of glass can't I? That would also solve the metal/chemical seeping. The rusting frame though hmm...you mean just from dripping while working on it? If I seal it from the inside with silicone I cant see rust being an issue but splashing for sure, however I thought stainless did not rust long as you keep it polished? Oh man the cons against using a retro tank for SW is a total bummer, that is the only reason why I would keep this...otherwise I would rather just resell it. I used to be into the terrarium thing but I lost interest with the addition of planted tanks and ripariums. Someday I may loose interest in planted tanks and focus specifically on one large paludarium. I will post my FW tanks on that thread though I have some really amazing planted tanks. Thanks everyone.
  15. I bought this today for five bucks at a thrift store that had been closed for 20 years. Its in great shape, I am water testing it right now there are no leaks but the towel is wet after a few hours so I think the slate is seeping. There is a black seal on the bottom, it was painted over the slate. I noticed they did not use any of their sealant on the inside of the tank, the glass meets the glass and it is all done on the outside under the frame. I was thinking about sealing the inside with silicone so that I can clean up the black seal on the outside with a razor. It may be worth just siliconing a piece of plexyglass to the bottom on the inside. The frame is in excellent shape I think it could be polished into a mirror finish, and the glass has no scratches and seems very clear. Its growing on me to use it, I was born in 1990 so these were never part of my generation and it seems everyone ditched these long before I grew up. I only saw them in science classes and usually they all had more of a tapered bell bottom shape to the frame. I am trying to figure out how old this tank is. When did they start making slate bottom stainless frame tanks? When did they stop? Did they start making tempered glass bottom stainless frame tanks before going frameless or did they drop the slate and go frameless all at the same time? I would think the advance in silicone and tempered glass came spaced apart? I think I am going to use it, just something simple like a planted SW tank with mostly different types of micro-algae and a few simple corals. It will be really funny since the reef hobby did not even exist at the time these tanks were being used...a cool retro clash but I am not sure what the salt will do to slate. I have this old Tetra 30-60 filter that fits exactly across the back which would work perfect for SW, it has an adjustable flow but I can have the flow high enough to not need a power head in the tank. It would add volume and allow me to run a heater in the HOB keeping the display cleaner, I would grow a mangrove out of the back as well. If I found a stainless light hood it will help hide the HOB too. Just an idea.
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