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About AndyK47

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 12/06/1984

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  1. Rod's Food

    you lose some of the small stuff, but there's plenty in there to feed the corals. I use to try and direct/target feed corals, and was ending up with more work trying to clean up the water. So i cut out coral "feeding" and just used rods and let the light do the trick and they grew fine, but with kids and life, i just don't have the time i used to, to devote to the tank, so i try to keep it simple, and it has worked. But the food itself is great, it's the only thing i feed my tank, the plate coral, frogspawn, and duncan all easily grab the food out of the water column.
  2. Rod's Food

    I've used rod's food for a few years now. It can be a bit messy. I've found i put a quarter sized piece of it in a cup, let it dissolve in the cup with water (i use tape because we have really pure water here, TDS on tap reads in the 10-20's. i pour off the top portion, trying not to lose any of the food... fill back up with water, stire, then pour off some more of that, tends to be a bit less messy this way but does waste food.
  3. Ok... haven't been on here in a while, but i can give you some advice... Firstly... I use a top off with a peristatic pump connected to a reservoir with RO water. Peristatic pump has a float switch. it basically uses rollers to slowly push literally single drops of water through the line, no chance of overflowing, etc. plus with the water level marked in the sump you can tell if it's working or not. Your salinity will stay stable instead of dropping for a while then jumping up when you add fresh RO water. Plus, if it fails it will only release what's in the reservoir and we're talking it will take all day to pump a few gallons. Now... on the contents of the sump itself. I started years ago with Sand, Rock, and Cheatomorpha... i now use big pieces of rock and Cheato... the sand gets nasty, holds detritus.... I like to every 6-12 months pull the rock out, and shop vac the whole sump, put the stuff back.... the sand gets so nasty over time and when something stirs it up (pouring in water, etc) it releases some nasty stuff...... i'm not well versed on any HOB overflows, i like having tank drilled because i can control how much water can actually drain into the sump during a power outage. Power goes out, tank drains and sump still has 1/3 of it's space left.... The return pump doesn't need to be fancy like you said, i hooked up a ball valve on mine to control flow some... also want to put a backflow preventer on the return line so it doesn't drain backwards on a power outage. The most important thing i found with return (I'm married) is noise level... my wife was not happy hearing a low ominous humm while watching tv. What i love about my sump is i can hide a GFO reactor, heater, bag of carbon, skimmer, cheato etc. and when people see my tank all they see is reef, not a bunch of equipment. Long term, the simplest is the best... i used to test everyday, clean glass every other day, drive to the LFS for Saltwater every friday... i've found long term, automation and simplicity helps keep your interest because if your'e like me (you may not be) there's times when other stuff comes up in life and you can't devote time every single day to a fish tank, but you still want to enjoy it and not lose the $$$$$ you put into it.
  4. Oil on hands during tank cleaning

    Antibacterial hand soap (triclosan) has been known the stay in your skin, studies link it to health problems http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/triclosan/AN02141. with any soap you need to make sure and thorougly rinse after use, i use a normal bar of soap and i'm sure it's got all kinds of stuff in it. bottom line is, keep your hands out of the tank unless you absolutely have to.
  5. Oil on hands during tank cleaning

    I usually wait to do anything hands on in the tank until after i take a shower and make sure i rinse the soap off thoroughly. I would also think Dawn is your best option if just washing hands.
  6. My wife always said "that thing is really creepy, i don't like it, you need to get rid of it" hate to say it, but i should've listened to her, haha!
  7. I've had a banded black and white brittle starfish for a couple years now, he's grown to be approximately 10" in diameter, his center is at least the size of a quarter. I know most people say they're reef safe and don't harm fish, but over the last 4 months i've had 4 smaller fish disappear. a purple firefish and 3 small anthias. I feed the tank almost everyday, but this thing is massive now and i witnessed one time a hermit fall on it's arm and it wrapped up extremely fast. I don't have a whole lot of hiding places in the LR so unfrotunately where it lives is where the fish tend to go to hide. I've also had shrimp and emerald crabs disappear over time and chaulked it up to water quality issues etc, but the water has been pristeen lately and i don't have any aggresive fish. 2 naked clowns, 1 leopard wrasse, and a trio (now pair) of bartlett's fairy anthias. Anyone else have this issue? I've never lost fish like this without seeing the fish dead. but the last 4 are completely gone, no trace of the fish whatsoever.
  8. Coral status after vacation

    I've had frogspawns for years and when all the SPS/Acros are melting away and dying off the frogspawns always stay healthy. They like water that's a little dirtier than normal, and since you did a W/C before and after you went on vaca. there's a possibility that triggered it as well. I'm with all on here who say stop doing additives. I don't use additives and have only ever found that unless you can test for it, don't add it. W/C's should keep your caclium level plenty high without throwing more money into Calc. additives. too much Calcium can be bad, it puts white coralline like buildup all over the tank and pumps and it's not easy to get off and isn't pretty. I say you pull anything out of the tank that's is dead/dying do one more water change and get consistent with W/C's... you can have poor water quality and a nice looking tank as long as you're consistent with the quality of water. It's not always dirty water that's the problem, it's when you go from 1 year of mediocre water quality to overnight having crystal clear untainted water the corals are gonna get shocked. Any change in params shocks the system.
  9. 75g Reef Tank by Andyk47

    Took some pics at lunch, got some new fish in, been doing heavy waterchanges to stay up with the increasing bioload. Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr
  10. Algae on the glass issue

    coraline does grow in several different colors including green... if you're talking about what i think you're talking about it's a green version of coraline and you're gonna need to bust out the razorblade/metal scraper.
  11. Setup order

    idk if you have access to a large amount of SW, but if you do it helps to wash the sand a couple times in a bucket with SW, also helps cut down on the cloud..... been doing this for like 9-10 years and first i've heard of the dinner plate, sounds like a great idea!!
  12. Noob questions nano reef

    I started with a NC12, moved to a CADlights 39g and now have a 75... it's addicting. If you can get RO water i'd use that over distilled, distilled just doesn't take out as much funk from the water as RO, but is better than tap. The AIO tanks are great, but almost always people end up moding them to their own needs. i completely removed all the crap out of my NC and put LR rubble in the back with some chemipure and filter floss with great results. just keep up the water changes and you'll be fine......... don't need to change water while system is cycling.... powerheads are nice, but can take up a lot of room in a tank that small. if you're going to use one i personally recommend investing ($$$$$) in a vortech MP10 or possibly a koralia nano... just my 2 cents. *also, #1 rule, read as much in the beginners discussion forum as you can. i still go back and reread stuff i've read 100 times on there to touch up on stuff i've forgotten.
  13. Dusky jawfish?

    About 2 years ago i had a dusky jawfish and besides looking like a monster it wasn't as friendly as the yellowhead jawfish. I've seen yellowheads and bluespots both kept in 10gallon tanks. You should easily be able to keep a dusky in a 20g. just make sure you have a LOT of sand and LR rubble for him. I personally would go for the yellowhead, i had one of those and they are very friendly and interactive and a lot of fun to watch.
  14. 75g Reef Tank by Andyk47

    Thanks all! overflow took a couple months to finish but that was mainly due to lack of time. Probably put a solid days worth of work on it, finished product has been great. have gutter guard around the pipe and glued to the overflow wall to keep critters out.
  15. 75g Reef Tank by Andyk47

    Got another little addition to the tank.... a small kole tang, is really friendly with the other fish, hasn't nipped at anybody and is eating. Had him about 3 days now. Untitled by andyk47, on Flickr