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About dandelion

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  1. It will affect cupramine. Cupramine + prime = dead fish. Another way is to be proactive and leave say a non-running sponge filter in your DT or sump. Or you can leave rubbles or ceramic rings in a HOB filter and move them over into your QT filter.
  2. I must say sometimes I wonder if water change does more harm than good. I usually do mine every 10 days. I have tried skipping one or two water changes and my corals were happy as ever. And when I do it it becomes a mucus shit storm and everything looks pissed off for a day.
  3. I'm hoping this is not old tank syndrome but just a temporary imbalance with nutrients. I am starting to lose the battle against nuisance algae. My chaeto in the second chamber doesn't seem to be growing much. At the same time I have having GHA pop up everywhere - in creeks nooks and on the sandbed. I was able to control them with almost daily tweezing and direct peroxide injection, but the algae seems to have an upper hand now. Tried dosing API algaefix and it did nothing. Probably made it worse because I had to remove my carbon and phosguard. After reading about fluconazole and bryopsis, I figured I have nothing to lose from dosing it to see if that will help with GHA. I removed purigen and carbon, crushed up a 100mg pill of fluconazole, and dissolved that into the tank. I have seen no ill effect so far. People suggest that it takes a bit longer to kill GHA than bryopsis. I'll wait a few days and report back. Zoa frags still have a lot of GHA even after a strong peroxide dip. Back of tank where I really could get to.
  4. Went to the Michigan annual frag swap and came home with lots of new corals! Dropped about $200 and got 2 pairs of designer clowns along with many zoas and a few SPS. I have a Fluval Evo 12 that is still cycling (been since December!) Plan is to convert this into a zoa garden and move my SPS and LPS over to the bigger tank. Oh and did I mention I rehoused my clownfish here? I know the tank is getting really cramped with all these DIY frag racks. Hopefully my new tank will be up and running soon!
  5. This statement reminds me of the book I read before I started my first saltwater aquarium. It's the one by Michael Paletta. He said the old way of using under-gravel filter traps a lot of detritus, and will warrant an annual breakdown of the tank for cleaning to ensure longevity.
  6. Following along too. I just dosed fluconazole into my pico yesterday. I have been manually tweezing them out of my sand bed and injecting peroxide right at the patch. I even tried some algaecide and it did nothing. Having had the carbon+phosguard out for a couple of weeks during the algaecide treatment only made things worse.... Realizing I am losing the battle I went ahead and dosed the hopeful silver-bullet.
  7. I usually suck out part of the sand bed when I do water change in my larger tank. I pour away the water in the bucket, then rinse the sand under hot tap water several times, rinse with RO/DI water, and put back into the tank. There are other ways of reducing nitrate. In the old days people use DSB. You can also use refugium, bio pellet reactor, nitrate removing media, super porous media in the sump that allows anaerobic bacteria to thrive.... etc.
  8. In short, Seachem Prime works by reducing dissolved chlorine and chloramine in treated water to turn them into benign chemicals that do not harm livestock. When mixed with cupramine (copper), it will turn the 2+ copper ion (Cu2+) into 1+ copper ion (Cu+). Cu+ is highly toxic. So Prime combined with Cupramine = dead fish. The two ways to control ammonia is by having a fully cycled tank or frequent large water change.
  9. If the corals are doing great with only small infrequent water changes, then why bother?
  10. Get ready to do daily water change. I suggest getting a seachem ammonia alert badge for easy monitoring of ammonia level. DO NOT DOSE PRIME. Prime will reduce cupramine into a highly toxic form of copper and will kill your fish. Oh and don't put inverts in that tank anymore. Except perhaps deep cleaning the tank and then run carbon for a week or two. Copper sticks to everything in your tank. i have never heard of not having to cycle at all except when you put fully live rocks/filter media into the tank. IMO your LFS did you a disservice.
  11. 1 week is not enough for some diseases to show. I usually do at least one month while meditating prophylactically or longer if not. i wish you the best of luck. I just lost two clowns form ammonia poisoning during transportation. 😭
  12. I ended up putting mine together like this. Note the slot on the right for filter pads. http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w391/yhchan/Petco_625_Arc/6CCB0314-C089-4E95-8A13-C4ABE5B329D8_zpstbnrkj4o.jpg[/IMG]
  13. Make sure the new water is at similar temperature though. That may mean keeping the car at say like 75°F if you can't run that many heaters.
  14. How did you prevent the water from spilling out when you press the pedal or hit the brakes?
  15. No egg crates like the light diffuser they sell at home depot