Jump to content

holy carp

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About holy carp

  • Rank
    Baby, Don't Fear The Reefer

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    NY, NY
  1. I would only get Alkalinity dKH (as opposed to the ppm one pictured above) and the new ULR Phosphate. My regular Phosphate always reads 0.0 and after complaining to Hanna, they simply told me that one is really not good for reefs and shouldn't be sold for that purpose. I also have ULR phosphorus which has better resolution, but the short timeout ensures you will be wasting lots of reagent if you don't always mix it fast enough. The new ULR Phosphate finally increased the timeout so you can actually use it without a second timer, it reads in Phosphate ppm, which is the units most hobbyists use, and has a good enou. Calcium is fine, but for me it is infrequently needed compared to Alkalinity. If you do regular water changes and keep Alk in line with 2-part, Kalk, or a calcium reactor, I don't personally think Calcium testing is important enough to justify the cost of Hanna, but that's up to you.
  2. I rotate through a lot of frozen foods, but I haven't found freezer burn to be too problematic. Day 1 Mysis Day 2 Squid Day 3 Carnivore Cuisine Day 4 Remove filter sock and feed cyclops cube, put in new sock when feeding is done Repeat At that schedule, each blister pack lasts me about 4 months, and I buy a number at a time, so I probably have some that stay in the freezer for a year before getting used up. I used to use LRS, but my LFS no longer carries it. That stuff is pretty oily, and I found it to be less susceptible to freezer burn than most other frozen slabs. I think the only tricks to avoiding freezer burn issues are to a) keep your freezer cold - the colder it is the less the food sublimes - should be 0°F or colder b) keep your freezer full - the less air space, the less often it cycles and the less the temp fluctuates c) minimize how long the freezer door is open, obvs d) remove the amount of food you are going to use and immediately put the rest back in the freezer to prevent any thawing e) when you buy frozen food, don't let it warm up. If you get it from an LFS, bring a cooler with a freezer pack or two for transport f) don't worry about freezer burn... the fish don't seem to care
  3. I have those and find them on any dead bit of coral skeleton within a day or two. I think they just clean up the dead tissue and live in the nooks of the skeleton. I don't think they go after healthy coral flesh, but it's hard to say with certainty. I have no idea what they are. FWIW if you look at a bit of recently deceased coral skeleton, there is an amazing variety of critters going about their business. I never know who is friend or foe, but I don't think there's much you can do to get rid of them.
  4. That mucus strand makes me guess it's a vermetid snail, but a young one that hasn't developed a large tube yet. You probably don't want to keep it.
  5. Those sponges are likely a significant component of her bio-filter, which is why the practice of cleaning them out on an alternating schedule is prudent. I would not recommend replacing them with disposable filter floss. The carbon, on the other hand, isn't doing much at this point and can be replaced.
  6. Cool - any ETA on the new N-DOC organics test?
  7. I don't think it's as much about the space they have as the ability to maintain good water quality. Clownfish don't travel too far once they've matured. Maintaining the water quality becomes more challenging the smaller the volume - temperature can be more erratic, oxygen levels and pH fluctuate more day to night, nutrient accumulation happens faster (clownfish are little piggies), biofiltration is more limited, and the absorption of contaminants can build up more quickly (from candles or air fresheners, cleaning chemicals, lotion on your hands when you touch the water, or any other pollutants that find their way into the air).
  8. Why do you have a grounding probe? What is its material? If everything died but GSP, could there be other contaminants? How much and how often to you change the water? Low Oxygen? What temp do you maintain? We need more clues. I'd consider sending a water sample to Triton-lab.de
  9. I was unaware you were still doing any. Is 35.4" x 8.3" within your size range?
  10. I did a little more research: IC and LOOP may refer to the same light, but they also used IC in reference to V2. Orbit Marine Pro is sometimes referred to as "Gen 2" but is not V2. The comparison page references 2018, at which time Current USA changed some specs, but to make it more confusing, they kept the same product numbers. Here are specs of 2018 and later Orbit Marine: vs the old pre-2018 version:
  11. What is V2? I know there is the original Orbit Marine (which I have), then came the Orbit Marine Pro, and later the Orbit Marine LOOP.
  12. First off - what salt mix are you using? Different ones have different parameters, and you rarely want to dose to a target that doesn't match the mix you're using, since every water change will throw you off again. Any good reef salt mix should have the parameters in line with your targets, and if you use them on a tank this size, like @ninjamyst said, you likely won't have to do any dosing for some time. However, some Fish-Only salt mixes are too low on some of those elements like magnesium and calcium because fish don't need them as much as corals.
  13. I have tried Vibrant. It's most useful for creating a placebo effect.
  14. Exciting custom build! Nice to see another long tank. I'll be following this one. How did you make that concrete top? Is the concrete sealed with something, and does the depression where the tank sits accumulate salt dripping?
  15. If nothing around the tank is wet, I'd check the ATO reservoir and also the hose from the reservoir to the tank for any leaks while pumping. Also, if the tank is low but no leaks or overfilling are evident, check if there was backsiphoning from the tank to the ATO. This could have added water and then sucked water out when the pump stopped. If the salinity in your ATO reservoir is higher than 1.000, this may be the case. If you don't have a siphon breaker installed in the hose, that could also cause this to happen depending on the relative tank levels and the position of the end of the hose. Beyond that, just guessing so we'd have to get more info or photos on how everything is set up.
  • Create New...