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About Daemonfly

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  • Birthday 05/01/1909

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    NW PA
  1. Is the wiring 12ga? If it's 14ga, that's only rated for 15A, so swapping out the breaker for 20A and using wire only rated for 15A could cause more problems than just a tripping breaker.
  2. You can also be tightening it too much, and if it's squeezing out of the sides, it sounds like you are. Also, visually inspect the O-ring, it may have manufacturing defects that leave a path for water.
  3. Yup, encrusting gorgs, and they can be a pest if you let them get out of hand. They will continue to spread & spread.... Not a problem if you plan accordingly.
  4. Yes, good chance there is no noticeable cycle due to the small LR piece you put in at the start. None of my tanks ever cycle much either with how I set them up. You should be able to start adding things in slowly. Although, one thing to ask is: How old are your test kits?
  5. For a nano, the weak crap on the HD/Lowes shelves would work fine, but once you get into bigger tanks, definitely go for the RTVs. Also, per a response from GE to one of the Dendroboard (frogs) users, all GE II silicones have the mold inhibitor whether they specify or not. I can't remember if they also included the GE I in that statement.
  6. If anything you could use it to supplement and lower your costs.
  7. I thought of trying this before, but at the time, most of the ones I found didn't last too long after "dusk". Perhaps they're using the more efficient solar panel tech that's come out the past few years, but I think they also never used LEDs back then. Just bought a 6x54w TEK fixture for the frag tank that doesn't come with moonlights, so think I might just have to make a trip to Lowes to try one out for myself. Looking at it, it uses 1 AAA batt? I bet you could mod in a 2xAAA or AA battery holder for a bit longer charge holding power, if the charging circuit could handle it.
  8. Tempting to actually go to my Petco (not a great one) and see if they have any, but already have 2 black clowns, and no quarantine tank set up at the moment.
  9. Crammed? Are we looking at the same pic?
  10. Just DLed the library and moved the "LCDI2C" folder into my arduino libraries folder. Loaded up one of the examples that came with the library (LCDI2C\examples) and it compiled fine (Arduino v18). This sounds like you opened the Arduino app, imported the library and tried to upload, if that's the case, sure it will error out. You need an actual sketch that uses the calls the library provides, listed in the README LCDI2C.rtf file. There's a "Hello world" sketch in the examples folder that I mentioned above, load that up & see if it works, on both software & hardware side.
  11. Do you plan on removing the brass cap after silicone has set? Brass has copper = bad for tank I also agree on the clear tubing = bad. It'll just fill up with algae. I think you could do this pretty easy with 1/2" CPVC (smaller than standard 1/2" pvc). To avoid pressure differences between the nozzles, split it at/near the pump then feed sepperately to each nozzle, or just make a fully connected loop. If not, most Home Depots & Lowes sell black vinyl tubing in certain sizes which you can run exactly as you have now.
  12. Digital timers (I use some Timex(I think) from Target). The RKs are quite tempting, but waiting to see how some Arduino projects pan out (or make my own).
  13. What are you using to measure temp, and do you have an alternate you can try? But yes, unplug heater for a short while as you monitor (don't forget & leave it..), and keep the lights off. If it still stays at 84 after a while, then it's one or both of the pumps. What's your ambient room temperature? That will also have an effect on tank temp. Definitely wanna fix this before summer if you don't have AC.
  14. From what I've read, oak doesn't take very dark stains well, esp black. Most recommendations list very specific methods and products over your standard stains. I don't know if that applies to the gel-coats though, never used them. As for painting, just follow cptbjorn's post.
  15. I'm wondering about the switched inputs in respect to an ATO. Most of the arduino, etc.. based ATOs I've come across don't have any "debouncing" on the switches. Due to the nature of water flowing through our tanks, I think it's wise to have about a 2-3 sec "debounce" of the float switches to allow for water surface fluctuations. From the code I've seen, extremely easy to implement, unless all switched inputs are meant to be general purpose. If I wasn't both moving into & fixing up a house and setting up a new frag system, I'd have one done already. I'm currently using an Amtel based Multi-mode timer kit for ATO control http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/elec/ck1614.htm & it's working very nicely, for what it is.
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