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About Najay343

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday 10/16/1989

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Kenmore, Washington
  • Interests
    Firefighting, Legos and Saltwater
  1. Hey everyone, I’ve dialed way back in the hobby lately. Been selling all my equipment locally but didn’t get much interested in this item. Selling my nano-box Duo light. Recently referbished by Dave himself included new Mint Arrays, new acrylic top and lens, new gooseneck Mount, completely redone/rewired with new drivers. Has the BlueFish Controller app. Used with iOS. Looking for $300 PayPal shipped flat rate OBO. I am willing to meet local Seattle buyers in person for cash/Venmo transaction and reduced price.
  2. Got to get those Nitrates down low. Less than <5ppm I would say maybe even <2ppm if you want corals, I am not a fan of water changes. back when I was new all I did was waste time with water changes. In my opinion water changes have a negative affect by shocking the system. More so if you are doing large quantity changes like 40%+ of the tank volume since it messes with the pH/alk and hardness too much. Now with my current and most recent systems, I never do water changes and my corals and fish are happy and healthy. Another question, do you test phosphates? if your nitrates are at 30ppm your phosphates are surely up there as well, they go hand-in-hand. Clowns being aggressive towards one another is completely normal. They can take a lot of bullying around with each other. I have 3 and they are always sniping at each other for dominancy. My thought is your clown may have passed due to phosphate poisoning and/or nitrate poisoning. They are more reseilent to nitrate than nitrite or ammonia but long term or high ppm of Nitrate is still toxic to them. There are a number of ways to remove nitrate and phosphate from your system naturally without water changes which I highly recomend. Natural nutrient control. -Run a reactor with GFO media. This will control the Phosphate -Add macro algae to your system. Cheato is awesome. You can just throw it in the display, in the sump or rear chambers or make a macro algae reactor. Get a reactor and a cheep LED light strip and wrap around and the macro algae will consume the nitrate and phosphate. -Add mangroves to your system to help with nutrient control, would use in addition to one of the above methods. 7.8 is a fine pH. I would shoot for that for now. It will increase to around 8 on its own with time adding corals and different live rocks (GIVEN YOU DONT DO WATER CHANGES AS I DO) just be careful adding buffers as they can raise the water hardness which is not ideal and only continues to make your pH unable to remain stable. my system did just fine with no skimmer for a long time, I have one now and it definitely removes some gunk but also just things to consider. Best of luck, I consider myself to be newer skill wise getting into the moderate-intermediate zone in this hobby. People may disagree with my opinions above but I have learned everything on my own which unfortunately was the result of a few mistakes and tons of research.
  3. So here is my AI Hydra 26 HD. Great light. I was running the AI Prime HD prior with success and it was one of my favorite lights thus far. Little bit of a rant below, so you are forewarned... I will say the number of options for mounting these lights is fairly wide. The cost also add up fast. I may have done the most expensive option which is use the Multi Light Mount for just one light but it was imperative nothing intrude on the inner dimensions of my tank to have the custom glass top cover up 100% of any space fish can jump through. Also I didn't want to drill my ceiling. I found when assembling the mount (Which took a full 8 days shipping on the 4-7 day estimate) that I did not have a Hydra 26 bracket to connect to the actual mount and I found this frustrating cuz looking back at the big retailer sites unless you really look into it, how would I know I would need a special bracket considering I already paid $120 to mount this light and that doesn't include everything!?! Mind you, I already had purchased the light seperately on amazon for $298 with 2 day Amazon Prime so I was not patient and was not waiting another 8 days for the Hydra 26 bracket mount. My solution: Shown in the attached image. The light itself comes with two flat head 1" screws for attaching some piece that doesn't come with the light, I assume the Hydra 26 bracket, Well, the Heads of the screws slide perfectly into the HMS Trac but they ARE NOT long enough to sit in the track and connect to the light. My solution, go to a hardware store and try and find same screws in 2" length. The hardware store I went to didn't even charge me for them and it worked perfect and saved me the time and money from buying the Bracket. I think I actually prefer it over the look the bracket would give anyway. I will end with this, this list is shown no matter what piece or item off the list you are looking at on a retailers site, which you would think implies you need all of these items for the mount to work, but you don't... make sense? Not really. I am also not sure why they don't include the HMS Single Light Mount Kit in this list as the have the hanging kit which is different than the multi light kit. The retailers list: HMS Mounting System Components: HMS Multi Light Mount Kit - Includes vertical HMS rails and mounting feet that can sit on the side of your aquariums rim. HMS Hanging Kit - Allows you to suspend the HMS Tracks from your ceiling or wall brackets. HMS Multi Light Track - Select the track that matches the length of your tank HMS TwentySix or HMS FiftyTwo Bracket - Custom brackets that hold your particular Hydra LED light and lets you slide and spin each light individually for the perfect positioning. End of the day I am happy with this mount, even though I didn't use all the pieces suggested i.e. the TwentySix Bracket, It is high quality (As expected with the price) and I like how the power cord can be tucked away inside the railing. Happy Reefing! Nate
  4. PICTURES!! Good News/Bad News Hey everyone, I received my new Hydra 26, Awesome lights, I do have some issues with the mounting hardware AI offers though, which I will get into under the picture I post of the life. That was the good news. Bad news, I came home from work and could not find my biggest clownfish "Mama Chomp" She was the female of my mated pair who spawned sometimes twice in the same month. Since performing the tank mod of my IM25 and removing the rear chambers my IM Screen top no longer covered the entire top and Mama Chomp managed to sneak out the small opening left of which I was waiting for a Custom piece of glass to cover the entire tank with Super disappointed as it is such a preventable accident and I advocate for always having a covered tank. Even a 90% covered tank isn't good enough sometimes. She was an awesome fish, 5 years old, I had owned her for the last year+ Got her name for being a very aggressive fish with lots of personality and literally a chomp shape bite missing from her top dorsal fin. RIP Mama Chomp.
  5. The Eshopps overflow comes with the templant which makes it super easy. I measured the templant to be about 1/2" from the top that way the custom glass top I ordered will sit recessed in the tank. As as far as my flow, the Jebao 2000 is an awesome pump, so much control and awesome quality. Two 3/4" returns is overkill. I should have done 1/2" and I even should have only done one 1/2" return. The returns provide no flow. The water just lobs in. It is a lot of water being circulated just no pressure for water movement. But that is fine because I am running two MP10s. Just food for thought though. Would need two 1/4" returns if you wanted water movement. Or just don't split the Return lines like I did.
  6. I Hey everyone. Got the main piece I was waiting for yesterday. The return Pump. In testing for leaks I didn't find any until recently 6 hours later. Easy fix though. I did change my origional plans of just having my Nems and mated clowns in this tank, I also moved all the contents of my IM10. The scape is alright. I bought some tonga branch from BRS and was expecting a lot of small pieces buInstead got 3 large pieces. Waiting for the water to clear up before I post more pics. I am also waiting on my Hydra 26 and mount. update and pics to follow.
  7. Oh man, I didn't realize the Nuvo Black wasn't Low Iron. I was very tempted to do the Nuvo Black to save time and hastle. Glad I didn't.
  8. I have been looking for awhile for an upgrade. I love the wide shallow look and would have preferred upgrading to a 60-80. But all the tanks I have found were $750ish. The IM 25 Black is $180. I paid $220 for my AIO new and figured I couldn't get more than $200 so it was a wash.
  9. Hey everyone, working on a modification of one of my previous builds. Essentially a whole new build. I am changing my IM25 AIO Fusion Lagoon into a 25 gal shallow with custom sump. I will be using the baffles I take out from the IM25 AIO to use as champers in my sump.  The sump will be built in a AquaTop 4 gal cube.  There are a number of reasons for this change, one being I was bored and wanted to change it up. Primarily though I out grew the AIO set up and am no longer a fan of the limited space for equipment. I will also say one thing that drives me absolutely nuts about Innovative Marine AIO tanks is the void spaces under the chambers that are impossible to clean. I am a little bit of a crisp clean OCD type and those dirty void spaces I could never clean also lead me to modifying my tank.  Equipment as follows.  Tank: IM 25 Lagoon Drilled (Two 3/4 returns, One Eshopps Overflow Box Eclipse S) Sump: AquaTop 4gal Custom sump ATO: Autoaqua Micro Smart ATO Return Pump: Jebao DCS-2000 Nano DC Pump w/ Controller 520GPH Flow: Two Ecotech MP10QD Reactors: One IM Desktop Carbon In-Sump, One AquaMaxx FR-SE GFO Hang-on Reactor Skimmer: Coral Box S150 Protein Skimmer Lighting: Nano-Box Duo (Thinking about changing to AI Hydra 26 or 52)  Livestock as follows.  Four Rose Bubble Tip Anemones Two Clowns One Damsel One Lawnmower Blenny Two Cleaner Shrimp    Main reason of using the baffles from the IM25 AIO is so that I could continue using the IM Desktop Filter Socks seeing I have about 20 of them and still use them on my IM10 AIO Taking the acrylic out of the tank was king of a pain. Not to mention about 4" down, just below the overflows there is 1/4" glass backing. I had to use break the large piece of glass in order to save the small glass baffles. The Eshopps Eclipse S Overflow box comes with glass cutting drill bit and template. I used in conjunction with my drill guide. the reason I did not make the overflow flush with the top is I ordered a glass top to sit recessed in the tank 1/4" to slow the evaporation. When this tank was a AIO it went through 2.5 - 3 gallons/week from evaporation. NOTE: The Eshopps Eclipse boxes bulkheads are Slip. Non threaded. None of the retailers listed that info.
  10. Been a long time since last update. In the process of a bit of a conversion. I ended up moving all of my corals to a IM10 in my Bedroom. I left the two RBTAs in the IM25 which have since became 4 RBTAs. I will be moving the anemones and clowns into a 20gal breeder for the week next week while I clean and disassemble my IM25 AIO and drill 3 holes in the back. Will get pics of the progress and both tanks as soon as I can.
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