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RobinsonFam1

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About RobinsonFam1

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  1. Help picking skimmer

    if you can stick with a skimmer that will turn an equal or greater amount of water flowing through the sump. also check the sca to make sure the impeller and venturi are real clean. i find that mine will get dirty on heavy load and stop producing.
  2. I need help deciding

    id go 25 g over 16.
  3. Help picking skimmer

    http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/youbuilt/CS3-Cone-Skimmer-Kit its a diy kit just under $400. all precut and ready for glue http://www.marinedepot.com/Bubble_Magus_Curve_In_Sump_Needle_Wheel_Protein_Skimmer_w_Bubble_Plate_In_Sump_Venturi_Needle_Wheel_Protein_Skimmers-Bubble_Magus-4W05001-FIPSISNW-vi.html http://www.marinedepot.com/Reef_Octopus_Diablo_Extreme_In_Sump_Protein_Skimmer_In_Sump_Venturi_Needle_Wheel_Protein_Skimmers-Reef_Octopus-CV5173-FIPSISNW-vi.html those are all the venturi needle wheel style like you are used to with good reviews. if you prefer a higher power skimmer like downdraft or beckett then id go with etss (DD) or mrc (beckett). both brands more than proven what are your flow rates of tank/sump? that may dictate your best decision too. that should get you started!
  4. Green digitata

    med to low flow. med to high light. as with any sps, good/stable water conditions, calcium, alk. keep water changes on regular basis. good coral thats easy to frag out.
  5. ATO help - anyone want to throw down some info?

    why not gravity feed with an RO/DI reservoir and a float valve?
  6. ATO options with Kalk

    i just run a filter housing and reverse feed it using pvc inside. pickling lime is my drug of choice in it. it is fed via ATO gravity feed and float valve in sump. works great! i also have a bypass valve in place so when i go out of town my tank sitter and I dont have to worry about an overdose of kalk etc.... cost: about $30-40. cost to run: $0....(pickiling lime is about $5 for about 6 mos supply)
  7. AquaStyleOnline Club

    keeping the leds as cool as possible will prolong thier life. heat is their enemy for sure. im not any sort of an led guru by any stretch of the term. just been learning non-stop over past couple weeks. def need a fan on the heat sink though. if drivers are getting hot then cool them too. if they are too hot to touch then they are too hot. id send them an email and get their take on it. they have been real responsive for me. i just completed my 34 led controller kit from aquastyle. its freaking sweet. the new controller is fully adjustable where the previous model was either 0% or 100%. now its anywhere you want it!
  8. sca-301 blue pipe size?

    ive been pretty upset since the purchase of mine almost a year ago. never really ran great. tried the tweeks/mods with little benefit. the other day i took it completely apart to investigate. there was a couple little pcs of plastic from manufacturing causing the venturi the be partially blocked. now its a skim machine! in one day it produced more true skim than it has in almost a year! less bubbles at outlet too!
  9. How to get rid of the slurping/gulping sound

    pretty much. take the cap off and drill a bigger hole, keep going up in size till it quiets. ive used valves on top to regulate the air but they always seem to be a pain with salt creep. ive used a hose slipped in and then dangled inside the base cabinet to minimize the air sound too. what size is the drain and how much flow is the return pump? is the sump directly below or is it in basement etc?? this info will change water velocity of the drain and we can better help.
  10. glass aquarium rebuild?

    note: never try to adhere new silicone to old. it just doesnt work.........ive done tanks all the way to 210. they are all the same cept for the lil ones under 1/4" glass. they break very easily. you have nothing to lose though if its leaking. might as well strip down at least that panel and do it right.
  11. AquaStyleOnline Club

    so after reading 47 pages here (which was the best after 2 days of reading non-stop all over the place!) i think i have this figured out: 20L (30"x12") im planning on ordering http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/35-LEDs-Controller-DIY-kit.html 36 LED kit with controller and will add a fan for heat sink. custom odering the leds/colors for my set up from aquastyle. it will be mounted in floating "canopy" open air style. 80* optics on a 7.7" X 20" heat sink. about 8" above water. 4 clusters evenly spaced: 3)RB, 2) 4500K, 1) Deep Red, 1) Cyan, 1) Cool Blue, 1) Violet CB 45K RB RB V 45K DR RB CY any and all input will be greatly appreciated. layout? # of led's, color spectrum? if im better off ordering some parts from somewhere else etc. then please let me know! im kind of outta time as my 175W MH is dying quickly! thanks! BR
  12. My DIY PVC Overflow

    i know this is a dead thread but a quick idea.....i need something like this for myself as well......many other too. ive been very successful in stopping gurgle noises on return lines by adding a reducer or barb fitting at end of drain lines. anything from short runs to 20' runs. if you havent scrapped the overflow yet give it a try and report back! ive never had it not work! if its already scrapped ill try throwing one together for my tempered 20 (tired of HOB stuff all over)
  13. Mini RO Filter

    there is several other RO/DI units similar to that one on ebay for similar pricing. the one you are looking at is set up for drinking water. as desert rat said you need a 1 micron or smaller sedimaent in #1, carbon block in #2, carbon in #3, TFC in #4, DI resin in #5. the small systems can burn filters quick if your tap water is nasty. but if you have a small tank then they can work well. a full size system on ebay will run about 100-120. you can get away with one carbon if your water supply does not have chlorines or chloramines in it which most do. check the water dept in your area and ask how they treat the water. you definately need a quality TDS meter or "pen" to check whatever you do.
  14. How much flow on 12g?

    the 606 is only 106 GPH according to the one sitting in front of me. my ap 12 gal came with a 160 GPH pump which i upgraded to a maxijet 600 with the same flow but 1/2 the wattage. at 160 GPH my tank blows sand and nothing sits still which is what i want. i know that alot of others are using the MJ 900 too. BR
  15. i am trying maximize the filtration in my ap12 and noticed the chambers have a bottom in them rather than reaching the base of the tank. is this all dead space under the chambers? anyone ever thought about cutting this out? it would be much easier to add a skimmer in #2+3 if there was no bottom in them... let me hear your thoughts on this one everybody!
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