Jump to content

An Bollenessor

  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About An Bollenessor

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday 11/03/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Falmouth, Cornwall, UK
  • Interests
    temperate (coldwater) aquariums, blogging (see https://anbollenessor.wordpress.com/), pico aquariums, marine biology, anemones, reef aquariums
  1. thanks Seabass, it is a tricky one! (the lack of enthusiastic responses is not encouraging in any case!) cheers mick
  2. Hi all, to the best of my knowledge no general (saltwater) aquarium book is on the market. I am not talking a 'how to set up your tank' or fish/coral ID book, but a book with beautiful photos for inspiration and background on biology, technology, different types of aquariums (NPS, pico, coldwater etc), aquaculture vs wild caught, history, the aquarium 'scene' etc etc. On one hand I think there is a huge market for such a book (as it is such a big hobby), on the other hand internet forums and social media have a lot of info and people might not be in to books much anymore? Any thoughts, would you be interested in such a book? I might write it! cheers Mick
  3. Hi all, I will be replacing my RSM 130d with a RSM 170 to have a sump. I have a coldwater tank so run a chiller, which is currently placed outside the cabinet (behind the back wall, had some holes drilled for tubing). I am unsure how to combine a chiller with a sump (I found an RSM manual online but could not visualise the description!). Do you recommend I have the chiller in a separate loop, with a tube from sump to chiller to return pump to sump? Seems a bit of a waste of energy and also will have two pumps draining a relatively small sump at the same time. Or can I have a tube leave the sump into a chiller, into a return pump and then plump back to the aquarium? Might need a quite powerful pump to pull water through sump then chiller? Any suggestions much appreciated! cheers Mick
  4. Superb! Would it be possible to give more info on your DIY LED fixture on your thread? It looks great.
  5. My little tank has been running over a year now and it has been a great first experience of reef keeping. I have had bad luck w some corals, but others (softies) have grown quite a bit. Being on the border of a very small nano or very large pico I do not have quite the advantages of either (not a lot of space for corals/equipment but also no easy 80-100% water changes). My lighting is not up too standard; I figured a par38 bulb would be overkill for a 30x30x30 cm tank and so I ordered a 15W 5 LED par bulb, which proved to be worse than what I had! It is strange btw that there is only a single UK dealer of par bulbs (and they do not do par30s), as it seems a popular choice in the US. I might try to find a Par30 somewhere or perhaps buy the same small fixture I already have to double up. I never liked bare bottom tanks but have warmed to them, and figured it would be easier cleaning so got rid of the sand and added a couple of kilos of live rock. I might get rid of my small canister pump as the flow through the rock via the hydor pump might be enough. Without the sand it really becomes apparent how much detritus comes of the rock and corals (and I hardly even feed). I cannot siphon it off well with the rock dumped in a pile so need to rearrange things, anyone any suggestions?
  6. Cool. Why not have a shallower sand bed in the front so you can use the faucet for water changes? (As pico's rely so heavily on them, something I'd like to try out myself in a project.)
  7. What light fixture is this? Is it an option to use another piece of perspex on top to prevent evaporation?
  8. All right problem solved: the pump was preassembled the wrong way, with the outlet hose attached to the pump inlet. Makes sense so stupid of me to start bothering you all on the forum. Having said that, I trusted that the pump would come out of the box assembled in the correct way and it is not very obvious to make out the orientation. Bit dangerous as the reverse flow caused the back chamber to overflow,with water rising and spilling out of the hood and on to the sockets.
  9. This might be a dumb question but the manual does not help me out here: just installed the Red Sea max 130d replacement pump and the flow is in reverse, any idea on how to fix this? Thanks!
  10. Hi all, I currently have a small (5G) nano at work which is doing OK (see link below). However, it is high time for a new tank at home. As we have little space it is just my luck I have caught the pico bug. I do not like topping up water and have a cat so an open tank was not an option. I also wanted the tank to fit in a narrow window sill. So making a tank myself was the only option. The idea is a bare bottom tank, weekly 100% water changes and SPS. This should be doable but might not be easy. I chose acrylic which I might regret when it comes to coralline algae. On the other hand, when the corallines do well, so might the SPS, which means I will not be complaining. I bought lasercut cast acrylic at a local shop and some solvent online. 6mm clear acrylic for the tank (5 parts) and 5mm white acrylic for the hood/cover (7 parts). The tank is a weird shape: 40 cm long, 22 cm high and only 10 cm wide. So a bit over 7 liter/under 2G. I struggled with the lighting: I did not want lights hanging over a clear cover as it would probably become salt encrusted. I did not want a standard LED bar 'on legs' to put on a cover and build a hood over either. I then found the tunze 'ecochic' LED. It can be submerged which means that the hood is the cover at the same time (the photo's make this more clear). I wanted a little compartment to hide the pump (a little chinese thing) and the heater. But due to the long shape this compartment must be at the side and not the back. The solution was to have the hood extend to the bottom of the aquarium to hide this compartment (see the photos). The LED, heater and pump cords fit through the side of the aquarium (with a slit, otherwise the plugs would not fit through). And lo and behold I managed to make it water tight!
  11. Aquarium is going well, apart from the flat worms everywhere, need to buy something for that. The Zoa's, GSP, xenia, daisy polyps and yellow polyps have grown quite a bit. I need to prune the Chaeto and Codium often. I do not clean the pot filter, feed only once a month or so and do a 50% water change afterwards. I have a Stomatella, brittle star and even a (very shy) crab as hitch hikers, not bad for three small pieces of cured live rock. Lots of pods. I have added a small Kenya tree and even an acan (getting cocky!). Corraline algae have appeared in the filter inlet. My light is on the weak side, I think that is holding things back a bit.
  12. Hi all, still exploring options. Might try to build a acrylic pico tank. I would like to have lights in a hood, to prevent too much light spill' but especially to be able to use a cover to prevent evaporation. I want to go LED, and use a strip rather than a square format. I have only found the tmc aquabeam aquaray 600 as an option but could use something smaller, any suggestions? (So I do not want to have hanging or clip-on fixtures and an exposed aquarium cover w salt creep etc). cheers M
  13. Hey Beer, thanks for the warning; I'll be a bit more careful then! Have not had time to go out, hopefully tomorow if the rain is not too bad. A friend of mine found a live young loggerhead turtle here in Cornwall, things have been washing up! I am a bit disappointed what equipment is availble really. There do not seem to be small, external canister filters with inbuilt thermostat heaters. A canister filter + inline heater is not very cheap. Sticking a 5 inch heater in a pico vase is not ideal....is there a market for a custom external canister filter with inbuilt heater + inbuilt LED to grow chaeto? This would take care of flow, filtration and heating in one go... Anyway, as soon as I have found my hardware I'll start a new thread!
  14. Hi Beer, I have had planted freshwater tanks before, I would expect problems with yellowing if the water using roots (apparently lowering pH is not such a problem in seawater). If I could get hold of properly 'grayed out' driftwood from the beach I would not worry about pesticides or nutrients as it must have been in the sea for quite a while (still would boil it though). I am in Cornwall in the UK and there are good westerly storms at the moment, even found some bivalves (jewel boxes) from Florida, so hope there will be some driftwood also!
  15. Hey, I was not very clear, I meant a mangrove root, not a live plant. It would purely be a substrate to attach hanging soft corals too. There are some threads on using wood in reef tanks; there is the risk of tannin release. Better it is to beachcomb for a nicely shaped small piece of wood (not supereasy here). Then find a way to attach it to a lid (will need an external lamp). Red chilli corals look cool....
×
×
  • Create New...