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About NaturalViolence

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  1. Two 40 gallon tanks. Top one is predrilled with triple overflow and return. Bottom has baffles preinstalled to act as a sump. Both are extremely dirty but can be cleaned and hold water. Price is $100 for both. PM me if interested.
  2. UV is to kill bacteria living inside the water storage container not the system itself.
  3. I've finally decided to stop running biopellets. I've been running them very succesfully for 1-2 years now but no longer need them. I figured instead of throwing them away or bleaching them to store dry maybe I can help someone out. I currently have them stored inside a 1 gallon pitcher full of saltwater with an airstone keeping them agitated. There is a healthy visible bacterial slime coat on them. These are a great option for anyone just starting biopellets. Since they are already cultured they will start working immediately instead of in 2-3 months when the bacteria normally begin to populate. It's also a great option for anyone who is already running biopellets but needs to top off their reactor. In total I have about 600ml worth of pellets. It's a mixture of TLF NPX and NP-Active pearls. I live in the ft. lauderdale area and would love to sell them locally so that I don't have to ship them with water. But I am willing to ship if need be. They are worth about $40 so I will sell them for $20 locally or $30 shipped. Please PM me if you have any interest. I am willing to entertain other offers. I have lots of other stuff to sell and will begin posting them on this forum if this transaction goes well.
  4. Can you do a smaller order? Say 100ml? I just want to seed my refugium with them and 500ml is way too much for a tank my size.
  5. I think I'm going to hook up my dosing pump to my ATO. That should make it semi-continuous. Don't know why I didn't think of that earlier. I'm also going to try to add a toms prefilter to the line to filter out any kalk solids to help prevent the peristaltic pump from clogging. I think I will eventually switch to a dripper though. The issue I have with that is that the valves will likely clog from the kalk solids extremely quickly even if the water is prefiltered. Won't the backpressure created by that stir up the kalk solids in the bottom of the tank though? Yeah it seems to be a common complaint. It seems their drew dosers are much better built too. I'm definitely going to switch to those once this one kicks the bucket.
  6. Weird....my post was deleted. I have a TLF 150 I could sell you.
  7. <$200 Ideally <$100 I should mention that I purchased a digital timer off of amazon as a temporary solution. I will use 8 cycles of 1.5 hours on and 1.5 hours off each day. Do you think I would be better off using a dripper system to achieve a slower flow?
  8. @gus6464 That would work although they are difficult to find for a decent price. For the multihead roller based peristaltic pumps I agree with you. They are not built to last. But a lot of the single head dosers use a single arm attached to a high end stepper motor. These are very clearly designs recycled from their industrial counterparts. @CronicReefer Not nearly enough storage capacity even with a larger syringe I'm afraid. I'm wondering if I could just use a micro-ball valve to slow down the flow? Could that create a dangerous amount of pressure though and blast it off?
  9. Do you have any data to support that claim demonstrating predicted lifespans of various peristaltic pumps under 24/7 use? Can you tell me how long my brs dosers will last under these conditions and how you determined that? I would also like to know what time interval would be defined as "very short"? Months? Years? I would imagine that there is no such data in existence and that any claims about lifespan are going to be a complete guess. Especially without knowing which pump it is. I would imagine cheaper designs would indeed crap out pretty quickly due to the number of very obvious design limitations imposed on their rotors, rotary shafts, and pump heads. However many peristaltic pumps in the aquarium industry are rebranded from medical/pharmaceutical equipment suppliers (an example being the brs dosers). And those do run nearly 24/7 in their original intended applications without lifespan concerns. So I would imagine they would last quite a while given that they are doing what they are designed to do. Granted that is just an educated guess, but I believe my logic to be sound. If you have evidence to the contrary please let me know. For the record I am not saying that 24/7 use won't reduce the lifespan of these pumps, just that it won't reduce the lifespans to a "very short" duration for better made designs. Sorry if this comes off as defensive. A couple of issues would arise. 1. Jebao dosing pumps cannot dose amounts that small accurately even after 100ml calibration. Granted this can be offset by raising/lowering the amount once you figure out how much it is actually dosing. 2. Jebao dosing pumps have a max limit of 24 dosing intervals a day. Dosing every 10 minutes throughout the day would require 144 dosing intervals per day. Therefore the max you would be able to do is once per hour. 3. Jebao dosing pump controllers require you to manually input the doses for each dosing interval one at a time. To do this for even 24 dosing intervals a day whenever you want to change the total dose rate per day would be extremely time consuming and absolutely maddening. When I was doing two part dosing I used 4-6 dosing intervals a day. And even that was maddening trying to make adjustments every day until it was fine tuned. I can't even imagine doing it with 24, let alone 144 (if it supported it).
  10. So I recently started dosing kalkwasser using the brs 1.1ml/min peristaltic dosing pump (which in reality doses at around 1.9 ml/min according to my measurements) and well, it's too fast. Is there anything out there that can dose slower than this, say around 0.5 ml/min? Preferably adjustable. I could put it on a timer but I want to dose the kalk continuously so that my PH doesn't shoot back down during the off time. At the current rate it is dosing faster than my tank evaporates, although only slightly. I could speed up evaporation with some fans but I've had bad experiences doing this in the past due to the added room humidity causing problems.
  11. I have a phosban 150 that I could sell you: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Little-Fishies-ATLPBR150-PhosBan/dp/B0006JM0KI
  12. Same. I have an outdoor aquarium in south florida and it regularly reaches 88-90F at midday during summer with a low of 76-78F at night. I have seen absolutely no decline in growth or coloration of any soft/LPS/SPS species as a result of this. I suspect this is because those high temperatures are only reached for a few hours a day and change in temperature throughout the day is very slow. Imo reefers worry way too much about temperature. It usually needs to be way too high or way too low for a long stretch of time to cause any sort of negative effect. Or it needs to change way too quickly. In fact my observations have made me question the so often cited ideal temperature range of 76-82F since there doesn't seem to be any sort of scientific source that I can find to back this up. In fact most of the species we keep tend to be tropical or sub-tropical and are usually found in 80-84F water in nature with daily temperature swings of several degrees. So it doesn't make sense to me why many reefers think their corals will die at the temperatures they regularly encounter in nature. And in my experience many tropical corals actually do grow faster in that range. The only real downside to having a warm aquarium is that specific species of corals that live in cooler waters won't do well and algae tends to grow exponentially faster so you have to keep your nutrient levels lower to compensate.
  13. SPS, LPS, and soft. Not at the moment. Although in the future I may introduce peppermint shrimp to fight the inevitable aiptasia problem that I will eventually develop no matter how careful I am. It's a brand new tank so at the moment it's aiptasia free and I have no need to add them. Nope. And my light is mounted so close to the water's surface that it would be a massive hassle to remove whenever I had to feed the fish or modify the tank in any way. I don't really care to be honest. Probably only 1 since that's all I really have space for even if I stick to a small species. Maybe 2. Great suggestions so far. Keep em comin'
  14. I don't have sand. I probably should have mentioned that earlier.
  15. I've never been much of a fish person. I've always been more of an invertebrate person. But after running an invertebrate only tank for 1-2 years and not getting the growth I wanted out of it I decided to try adding some fish. I was out one day bait fishing and managed to snag a baby blue striped grunt about the size of a quarter. It's been suggested to me many times that fish poop is the best coral food and that adding fish would help improve their growth rates. I have seen some improvement since adding fish and I suspect the microdetritivores, their larvae, and the nutrients produced by the breakdown of the fish waste have contributed to that. The problem is the fish I have in their now with my corals is getting too big for the tank. I will need to move him to a bigger separate tank. To avoid this happening again in the future I want to replace him with some fish that won't grow too big for a 20 gallon tank. I also want them to be fairly cheap. I do not care about colors or appearance at all (I know, very unusual for a reefer). They need to be reef safe obviously. Oh and no clown fish. So any suggestions?
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