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jeffmr4

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About jeffmr4

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  1. jeffmr4

    Way to safely raise alk

    Its possible. BRS has pharma pouches for sodium carbonate, sodium bi-carbonate and magnesium (combination of magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate) to create one gallon containers. They have a calculator on their website to determine how much to dose. You could try raising your magnesium to 1400 or a little higher, bump up your alk and then see if it stays. Alkalinity is often times consumed or lowers more quickly than other elements in the reef aquarium. You could also switch your salt mix. I use Fritz RPM and I like it.
  2. jeffmr4

    Lighting with my Kessil A80

    Its a 15 watt light. Not very strong. He's got it 8 inches above the surface and the height of the tank is 12". I have mine the same height above half my tank and it is only 10" high.
  3. jeffmr4

    Cyano or diatomes?

    If it grows further you could try using chemiclean.
  4. jeffmr4

    Urgent Salinity Question

    You can also get a refractometer with automatic temperature compensation (atc).
  5. jeffmr4

    Calcium too high?

    It shouldn't hurt anything but generally 420 to 500 is good for anything with hard corals. It should drop on its own with water changes and replacing ro/di water with evaporation (make sure not to replace evaporated water with salt water). Check your salt mix too to see what it mixes at and you might post your current salinity level.
  6. jeffmr4

    Lighting with my Kessil A80

    Hello and welcome to nano-reef! You can run that at 100% and the color is somewhat your choice. I have one that I run the same with some Zoas and GSP. For color I turn mine to white and then gradually turn back to blue. Once I go one past white (into blue) I leave it there. That is my preference although everyone has a different one. Your corals will like pretty much anything you give them but a little into the blue spectrum might be good (14,000 K). Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  7. jeffmr4

    Aiptasia? What should I do?

    It looks like you have a lot of help here. If you ever use a peppermint shrimp and can't catch it to remove it, you can make a trap out of an empty 20 oz. clear plasctic bottle. Cut the end with the spout off (where it begins to be the same diameter of the rest of the bottle), turn the spout part you have cut out around and stuff it in the open 20 oz., punch some holes in the 20 oz. (and cut part of it off if it is too long), fill it with water and put some mysis shrimp in it, put it in the bottom of your tank and turn the lights out. The inverted spout lets the shrimp in but prevents it from getting out.
  8. jeffmr4

    Diatom? Dino ?

    It could be calothrix algae or a brown cyanobacteria. I think I've had the same thing for a while. I have siphoned it out, overturned the sand and used chemiclean. Chemiclean usually gets rid of red cyanobacteria for me and I used it once for that and after a while (longer than it stated on the box) the brown cyano also started to die. It didn't kill all of it but a fair amount. When it dies it turns white. (If you use chemiclean remember to pull your carbon if you have any, use a limewood airstone or make sure there is adequate O2 and do the water change as they say.)
  9. jeffmr4

    JBJ rimless 10 gallon

    I'm scrapping the modified Triton method idea as I think I need to have water changes to have good water coming in once every week or two and to replenish elements that are decreasing because of absorption by corals, etc. I've also added back carbon as I think it is better to have it than not. I added an ato today. Eshopps small container (2g) with their float valve switch. It seems to be working well. I also added a mexican turbo snail and will be adding a small cleaner wrasse next week.
  10. jeffmr4

    Huge algae bloom after cycle HELP

    If it doesn't go away you could use chemiclean. I've used that with success and no adverse effects on the tank. Its pretty amazing really. Be sure to pull your carbon if you do and follow the directions. Good luck!
  11. jeffmr4

    JBJ rimless 10 gallon

    Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Ok good to know. I have to Mg test kits from Salifert and they both read the same thing but I did mix what was left of reagent 3 with the new bottle.
  12. jeffmr4

    JBJ rimless 10 gallon

    Hey tr. That is good to know. I have tried to get someone from my local reef society to help without success and the local store doesn't test for calcium and magnesium.
  13. jeffmr4

    JBJ rimless 10 gallon

    I tested my water again and the magnesium measures 1125 and the calcium 440. Its hard to believe that the kits would be off by that much. The calcium kit is a new api and the magnesium an older salifert.
  14. jeffmr4

    JBJ rimless 10 gallon

    I got my results back from the Triton lab. I was surprised that mostly everything is ok. My calcium was a little low and my magnesium was more where I wanted it. I was surprised at this because my home tests showed the opposite. My iodine was also low which is probably because of my use of carbon. Here is the listing, Triton Test Results for Home Reef Tank
  15. jeffmr4

    JBJ rimless 10 gallon

    Well, I'm going to try a modified Triton method. I sent a sample in to the lab and will be receiving the results soon. I bought eshopps pf-nano overflow and their cube nano refugium sump and plumbed them together. The sump came with a 3' flex hose that has pvc sticking out of either end. I used a small 1" diameter piece of pvc tubing to connect the hose to the overflow. I ordered a sicce 1.5 pump (357 gph, adjustable) but found it was way too powerful even when turned down. I tried a maxijet 1200 and it was too strong and finally put in a maxijet 600 (120 gph) which worked. It took me a while to get the tank dialed in which eshopps technical support helped with. Thanks Sandy! Although the sump holds about 13 gallons when completely full (I think) I only needed 10 to fill it up. I had to lower the teeth box of the overflow in the tank to its lowest point on the plastic piece in the tank. Then added a little more water to the sump until the water was no longer going down in the pump compartment. Once I did that everything balanced out. I used a cpr something return jet with a hole poked into the back of the return part in the tank. This is to stop a reverse siphon into the pump compartment if the power goes out. I heated up a small phillips head screwdriver on the stove to push a hole in the back of the plastic. I got about 4' feet of 1/2" tubing to connect the maxijet 600 to the return jet. I heard that having a heater just in the sump made it difficult to keep the temperature warm enough in the tank and changed the temperature very slowly, so for now I have a hydor 50 w heater in the tank and in the skimmer compartment of the sump. I have a kessil h80 over the refugium part with some chaetomorpha in there. A reef glass skimmer that just provides some aeration as it can't sit low enough in the skimmer compartment to effectively skim anything. Activated carbon. There is a filter sock that is in the back but I don't think the water flows through it. it might need a slightly more powerful pump to do so. I'm not too concerned about it because with the triton method the algae is supposed to do most of the filtering. To start the siphon, eshopps included some airline tubing that, after you fill the inside and outside of the overflow box, you can put up the U-tube over half way and suck on it to start the siphon. The siphon stops if the power turns off but remains ready to continue once the power is back on and the sump pump is pumping. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the whole thing. The water level is a little low in the tank due to the teeth box needing to be low in the tank, the pump flow isn't very strong from the return into the tank and I'm not sure I'll get the 10x flow through the sump that I am supposed to have. We'll see how it works.
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