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About Halo_003

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 01/03/1994

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  1. Shipping to 32821. I’d prefer no scratches. Just looking for a temporary tank for my clown and BTA while I figure out the plans for my larger tank.
  2. New issue, I have a Meanwell HLG-C2100A set up now but it causes one channel to stay lit up even when the bluefish is set to off. What can I do to resolve this? I’m really lost on what’s is going on with it at this point. Should I just go back to 48V and add a 5th channel to separate the blue into left and right sets of two arrays?
  3. Update in case anyone else runs into this problem on their own builds and comes across this on google. I posted this to reddit as well and on there someone responded that for this I would indeed need a 60V power supply to run all four arrays in series. With this being the case I purchased a Meanwell HLG-240H-C2100A which has a DC voltage output range from 60-120V.
  4. I’m using 4 AcroStar Mega4Z Pro Blue Emitters and my power supply is a Meanwell HLG-240H-48B. On the primary blue channel the LEDs glow very faintly (almost not at all), but do not increase in intensity when ramping the controller. Am I correct in assuming that this is because 48V is insufficient to power the blue channel for all four emitters? I was previously using 3 Nanobox v3 pucks with no issues, none of the hardware is damaged. I’m assuming I need a higher voltage driver, is that correct?
  5. Can any of you tell if these two parts would get what I'm looking for done? 48-12V Stepdown 12-5V Stepdown Edit: This could be a winner. Slim enough after trimming the pins (I think) and has enough power. I might have to add a small spacer to get a tiny bit more space here since it's so slim it's almost impossible to find anything that will work.
  6. I am reworking my LED setup and would like to have a single cable going to the unit, DC 48V. The unit has a 12V fan and I also need to power a Bluefish Mini which requires 5V. Where it gets difficult is I need something with a maximum height of 3/8" that can mount to my heatsink. I am willing to shell out to get something custom if need be. Do any of you know where a source for this would be? I'm thinking of dropping a line to O2Surplus to see if he has a design that would do it.
  7. This might be a somewhat boring update, but here we go.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SU3QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L9J4JRG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GC2YLA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm interested to see how the Plastidip works, I have never used it before. Unfortunately I never got a response from Chris (former owner of CNC Reef). I shot him a pm on Instagram to ask if he had a CAD file for the light but no reply. After some consideration with regards to my light I am going to go for a matte black color on the body and a carbon fiber lid. Reason for the Plastidip is that it's easily removable if it looks bad. I will also be getting holes drilled in the rear of it to make it compatible with gooseneck mounting for more flexibility. Currently it is only able to hang from the ceiling, sometimes less than ideal in apartments. If it looks good I may end up getting the heatsink anodized black and getting a real carbon fiber lid made. In the midst of all of this I will probably throw in a fourth NBR puck from Dave and try to use drivers from BlueAcro to get the electronics all self contained. I am considering moving the 3 Nanobox V3 pucks to a smaller build for a BTA quarantine tank and replacing them with BlueAcro 20k Pro star pucks. There's not really any good reason for this except I am interested to see if it makes a significant difference and I need a light for BTA quarantine anyways. I have completed the cross country move to Florida, which was quite interesting. I did not feel like tearing down all of the work routing cables and such in the stand, so I prepared it for shipment personally. I left it pretty much 100% intact, just bubble wrapped all of the sensitive parts, shrink wrapped the whole thing, and then my movers (company paid for) wrapped it in thick brown furniture paper to load on the truck. It had no damage from this method but I wouldn't try it with a glass sump. Picture: I am waiting on a new bulkhead and elbow fitting to come from BRS for the return and then I will be filling finally.
  8. Like @Christopher Marks Said, the shots are impressive! The tank is looking great so far, it will be cool to watch it progress.
  9. Midsize reactor at $65 as well. https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Marine-Minimax-Midsize-Reactor/dp/B00FCEV5F8/ref=pd_sbs_199_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FCEV5F8&pd_rd_r=J9CYRK9PJGVD3DWK47R5&pd_rd_w=Xdi3e&pd_rd_wg=6lLSA&psc=1&refRID=J9CYRK9PJGVD3DWK47R5
  10. Thank you guys! On the plus side my bryopsis appears to be gone, but I am considering doing a couple of 100% water changes and treating with fluco again just to be sure since the rocks are all still in a Rubbermaid tub.
  11. You and I are in the race to fill the Nuvo 30s still I see. Not sure if you saw my update but my new target fill date is early April or so due to an upcoming move cross country. Your stand looks awesome with the white interior, and the Ruby sump looks fantastic.
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