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About anizato

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    San Francisco, CA

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  1. Wish I could hang that Prime!

    how close the water is to the surface makes me nervous LOL
  2. Reef Glass Nano Skimmer Giveaway

    fingers crossed! i could REALLY use this!
  3. Abnormal Looking GSP?

    Dude! your temp is WAAAY too high! 85-86 is intense!! any more than that and you are killing everything! stay closer to 78-79-80. 87???!!! WOW.... I have seen tanks crash at 89... scary numbers bro! Maybe its best to keep the fan on AND the heater at 78 degrees so it doesn't get lower than that... You will need to have LOTS of RODI for ATO because it will be an immense amount of evaporation! So just get a little computer fan, or any small fan and point it at the surface of the water. (this will make the water temp lower fast, and evaporate it, and be replenished with the RODI from the ATO) As I said, I would keep it on during the hot periods of the day, and ALSO have the heater in there to keep water from cooling down below 78.
  4. Water change = Higher Parameters?!

    cool! no need to get frustrated you are doing fine. In my opinion I would still consider getting the Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride and dose that. (Ammonium Chloride is food for beneficial bacteria, raising Ammonia to 4-6ppm is ensuring there is enough food for the bacteria to reproduce properly. When this much Ammonia is consumed within 24 hours, it indicates your beneficial bacteria is strong enough to house the animals it will be fed by (fish breath, fish poop, uneaten food, wastes, etc) Or if you want to wing it on the adventurous side (of course this route is dangerous and may crash your tank down the line) just get a CUC of hermit crabs, Astrea snails and turbo snails to get you started. See if they consume the algae on the rocks. .....It is not controlled since NOTHING is there to stop it from growing, unless you pluck it with your fingers, that algae is out of control. I personally, would add the Dr. Tims AC and go that way and just cycle the tank "again" (more like properly, this will make your tank strong for the long run). The reason you are seeing the same results is because you are testing sporadically, so when you test, the water has time to reach the same levels as when you last tested. As opposed to testing everyday to see the actual fluctuations in between. Which is why with cycling it is best to test daily. You will also test daily (for a couple of weeks) when you fill your tank and you have to figure out your dosing schedule (ALK;CA;MG) to learn how much of these elements your tank/corals consume daily, etc. which you will need to replenish daily (unless you have a light bioload and Water Changes will suffice in replenishing these needed elements). In a cycle it is best to test practically everyday until you see Ammonia at 0 then you can test once or twice a week. this will give you a sense of exactly what is happening in your water box. You NEED to get used to testing because it should be and will become part of your daily/not so daily routine.
  5. Water change = Higher Parameters?!

    +1 on stop the NOPOX. nopox only shoud be used on mature aquariums and those that have a skimmer running. you need to add some beneficial bacteria (biospira, dr tims, etc) you should not have performed the WC until after the cycle is done. You still have Ammonia and Nitrite present which means the cycle is far from done, regardless of it being 800 weeks or 4 weeks or 21 days. Every tank is different and every situation will never happen the same for anyone. My advice, is get a Dr Tims Ammonium Chloride ($2) and dose it to your tank's Ammonia to get it up to 4-6ppm. and monitor it until it reaches 0ppm. See how many days it took from 4-6ppm to 0ppm. Continue to dose Ammonium Chloride (beneficial bacteria food) and test to 0ppm, and repeat this cycle until your Ammonia readings reach 0ppm in 24 hours. Once your Ammonia can be reduced from 4-6ppm to 0ppm in 24 hours, your tank is ready for anything you throw at it (BUT WAIT!). And even then, you should wait at least a week, to have this bacteria stabilize. Read your Nitrate, it should be ridiculously high... because all that Ammonium Chloride you have been dosing has been converting to Nitrite and finally into Nitrate. Finally make a large WC... about 50%. Re-test everything and Nitrate should be considerably lowered by now. Ammonia should be 0 and Nitrite 0 at this point. Your tank has been cycled! what this means though is that you begin your weekly water changes (regular maintenance) and your first CUC can be added and maaaaybe first fish (this being your first tank I advise against it - just wait, it will be worth it) ... I would still wait for diatoms to occur and CUC to clean it up before adding a swimmer. First, I would add a million pods and a very small but very selective CUC, choose carefully! take your time selecting the critters,( e.g. Nassarius are awesome but only survive if you feed HEAVILY (and you only feed heavily if you have a large skimmer, refugium, fish, tank), things like that.) After a week or so of having a CUC clean the diatoms a little, re-test, WC to continue to lower Nitrates...once Nitrates are below 10ppm, then you should add your first fish (although 99% of people add them as soon as the cycle is done). Remember, and this I cannot emphasize enough, don't think of this hobby as keeping fish or coral, see it as keeping pristine water quality. Do you have an RODI unit? This should be the MOST important purchase for your reef tank. If you don't have one, I would make this my priority before any fish or coral, or any other equipment you had in mind. RODI buddy, that is where success is at! Hope this helps.
  6. Buying from Legendary Corals

    Darwin and his team and LEGENDARY CORALS is super LEGIT! I wait for Coral conventions to happen so I can go buy from them. They ALWAYS have the fire burning HOT! Also, buying from them online is a great experience! They just know what they are doing man! they love coral more than you do
  7. image.jpg

    kill it!
  8. Very cool. Then I will make the switch to the regular Red Sea Salt. This Article has a list of all salt mixes and their respective parameters. I have some Caulerpa in the refugium and it is growing fantastically. I have to harvest once a month, I remove about 10oz, it is A LOT! Also just tested for PO4 with the Phosphorus Hannah Checker, got 12ppb which is .0037 ppm. so right on the money. However I have noticed that the algae is green now, and no longer brown. So I guess the free phosphate ions are nearly all consumed and I expect the start starving pretty soon. Going to start up my GFO reactor again along with the next water change (this Wednesday) I will document the results. NoPox will continue to be dosed at 3ml a day. I hope this algae starts to starve pretty soon. Magnesium is still at 1600 though. Calcium remains a solid 450
  9. wow that was a very cool learning moment! thanks for that! I have slowly been dosing .02 dKh every day... which is now at around 9.5dKh. slowly raising it to the levels of the salt (red sea coral pro) which says it is 12.2dKh. is this going to improve my situation? or is there another way of decreasing my magnesium? should I stop doing water changes for a while? what do you suggest?
  10. As predicted! Water Change was done and ALK is back up to 7.8dkH as it was with the last water change. I will begin dosing according to the ESV B-Ionic bottles to add 0.1dkH everyday of ALK and the equivalent CAL Questions to anyone who knows : 1. Why did my MAG go up? 2. Did anyone notice that CAL was 450 during the entire test? Why? 3. Why is ALK the only thing consumed? I remain dosing 3ml of NoPox everyday. Algae seems to be receding. I finally dosed ALK last night for the first time after lights out. According to the calculator I needed 27.7ml to raise from 7.8 to 8dKh. I dosed the first 8ml and tested about an hour later at 7.8dKh... which I asume basically means the ALK that was consumed from the moment of water change to the 20 hours later when I dosed the 8ml of ALK this repleneshing to 7.8dKh. I expect tonight's to either do the same or increase it? If it doesn't, then that means 8ml of ALK a day is what my tank consumes? Yay or nay?
  11. Measured again: 3/28/17 Alk RS 7dkH Alk Sali 7dkH CA 450 Water Change tomorrow. this will bring up the Alk to 7.8dkH, of course testing will be done to make sure, then I will begin dosing my ALK. According to the bottle, and the online calculator I found, I need 1ml to raise 0.1dkH in 50gal with the B-ionic. So that should be my daily dose? On another note, while we wait for the Phosphate checker to arrive, algae is turning green, but disappearing mostly, I can finally start to see the surface of my rocks again, they are starting to look clean! The algae is firmly on the rock, it is turf-like, will this disappear in time with the reduction of Po4?
  12. So in order to get the most accurate results possible with the Red Sea Alk test, I test twice in a row. It is pretty simple. Rinse the vial with tank water. Fill it with 10ml of tankwater. Use your titration needle with the ALK (make sure to suck, push out hard - to remove micro bubbles), fill it finally. Swirl constantly adding drops slowly, it should change to blue soon, then followed by transparent, this is when I go drop-by-drop, then a drop or two later it turns sort of pinkish. THAT is where I stop the test and read the result. The Salifert Alk Kit is actually pretty good as well, results are almost exactly as Red Sea Alk. These are the results since I have been testing with both Red Sea and Salifert Alk. As the pH, I have nothing to compare it to, but have 8.0pH throughout since I started testing everyday with it. 3/18 ALK (Red Sea) - #1= 7.4dkH ; #2= 7.3 dkH ALK (Salifert) - 7.4dkH CA - 450 pH 8.0 3/19 ALK RS - 7.2dkH ALK S - 7.3dkH CA - 445 MG 1580 pH 8.0 3/20 ALK RS - 7.1dkH ALK S - 7.1dkH CA - 450 pH - 8.0 So we can observe the tank seems to be consuming approx 0.1dkH a day of ALK. Please correct me if I am wrong: Assuming that ALK will go back up to 7.8dkH on Water Change Day, ALK needs to be replenished 0.1dkH every single day, to keep it at 7.8dkH for all eternity? This is better for the coral than trying to raise ALK to 9dkH? Also, MAGNESIUM seems to be on the rise... is this because of the ALK consumption? At the same time, why is my CALCIUM staying at 450? All that being said, I agree that the Hanna ALK Checker doesn't have a great reputation. However investing in the phosphorous Checker is a MUST. So this investment will be made pretty soon. I am taking a trip with my wife to LA from tomorrow Tuesday till Saturday. If any of you can suggest any MUST SEE coral shops, that would be badass! I look forward to your input ...