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wbeavers

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About wbeavers

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 04/19/1969

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  1. Not your out of a box nano!

    Well after a LFS tour this weekend I had a few things to add. I picked up these...... A pink & green Acan from Tropicorium. An orange and silver acan, a pink eyed chalice, a reportedly cool but bleached out monti, and a small frag or zoas from The Fish Guys. A real sweet pink table from Fish Doctors Canton. I was going to add fish this weekend weekend, and I had an idea that I wanted some unusual clownfish or some Yasha Haze Gobies. Well when I got to Choice this weekend I saw these tank breed dottybacks that had just come in. I thought real hard about getting them, and decided to pick them up after the LFS tour. While I was on the tour I saw a pair of ORA misbar ocelaris at The Fish Guys; they were real nice. Jen the owner was poking fun at my interest in them; but those sweet little dottyhbacks won out.
  2. closed loop pump

    I used an Ocean Runner 2500 on my setup, and liked it alot.
  3. Quiet-est Pumps for small space

    Mini-Jet 404 or 606 are nice quiet pumps; efficient too!
  4. CoolWorks MicroChiller / IceProbe

    Here is a few shots of my IceProbe on a 5.5 gallon sump. It is hooked to a 13 gallon maintank with about a 70x turn over, and it keeps my temps nice.
  5. Not your out of a box nano!

    I had the first real test of the Iceprobe this week. My A/C broke down and had to be replaced. It was 85+ in my place, with 80%+ humidity. The tank was set to no more than 79, but it hit 82. So technically it was not holding the temp down. This was a worst case scenario for my system. On the second day I put a window shaker in the room, and the temp came down. As to if an IceProbe can keep an 8 gallon BioCube temp down in a 95+ environment, I can't tell you for sure. I would upgrade the fans, and drill the Ice Probe into the back. The IceProbe is rated to pull an 8 gallon tank down about 10 degrees, so you may not be able to do it. Here is a nice calculator for determining chiller needs. http://www.jbjlighting.com/prod_chiller_size.asp Thanks, for the compliment on the system. Last night I added some new Corals. Here is what I purchased. 12 polyp ORA Duncan 2" Green & Pink Favia tiny Purple Haze Montipora 8 polyp Red & Green Acan Lord 60 polyp mixed Zoa rock 2 polyp tiny neon green caluastrea that looks like it has some tissue necrosis. I found it buried in the sand almost completely hidden. I also added 10 more astrae snails to the critters.
  6. Not your out of a box nano!

    Did you possibly miss the thread title? The idea of this system was to not have your cookie cutter prefabricated, hacked nanocube(pod). It has a drilled sump, an oceans motions closed loop, and a custom oak stand, and canopy. I guess you are happy with your out of the box Aquapod, and that is fine, but I wanted more........so I made the "Not your out of a box nano." A system in which very little is off the shelf.
  7. Not your out of a box nano!

    This is standard Schedule 40 PVC. The method used is on the Video linked below. The flow is much better. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=41...dC5m05ALYwa2VCw
  8. Not your out of a box nano!

    The IceProbe works for smaller tanks; under 15 gallons. For a 24 gallon you'll need something more. Thanks for shopping with Choice Aquariums, we appreciate the businees. Have you checked out the new website yet?
  9. Not your out of a box nano!

    Did some stocking two days ago. I added 3 Tongan Nassarius, and 4 of the big Ceriths. I had already added 5 Astraes, some microstars, Medusa worms, and various pods about 10 days before. I also did the first water change. I did some more work with the Kill-A-Watt meter also. The daytime usage on the tank is 123 watts. The nighttime usage is 9 watts. These numbers don't include heating or cooling, but do include the temperature controller, and top-off device controller. I figure that the electricity is costing me about 16 or 17 cents a day to run this whole system. The flow on this tank is incredible. This little tank has about 70-90x turnover per hour during the day. So far I have not detected any dead spots. It is hard to tell how much flow is lost due to restrictions in the Oceans Motions/Revolutions closed loop. The closed loop pump pushes a max of 625GPH. The Koralia Nano gives me 240GPH, and the Return pump gives me about 75 gallons per hour.
  10. Not your out of a box nano!

    There is no such thing as a budget chiller. Usually the most economical way to chill is to use the combination of fans, and a good top off system. Fans blowing across the waters surface will increase evaporation. Evaporation will remove heat from the water. Although water will need to be replace with a topoff system. One of the things I did with my system is pay attention to heat sources in the water. You won't see one of those water heating mag drive pumps in my tank. I carefully picked pumps that were energy efficient and/or externally mounted. This reduces the amount of heat energy difused into the water. I also built my canopy in such a way that there is a constant flow of air through it that keeps alot of the heat from the metal halide from entering into the water. That lack of heat in the canopy also helps the light run more efficiently. I have not yet seen the chiller on this tank run, and that is because I approached this system with careful thought, and planning.
  11. Not your out of a box nano!

    I did a little testing this morning. Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 20 So I'm getting there. I also put the kill-a-watt meter on the return pump (Mini-Jet 606), and it was running a total of 3 watts. Can you believe that, a 3 watt return pump!
  12. I had most of this stuff around. I purchased the wood for the stand & canopy, the Ocean Runner pump, and the some of the plumbing stuff. This is a work in progress. Here is the present supply list. 13 Gallon Tank(Had built, don't have a table saw) Glass Holes Overflow(Thanks Debbie) Custom Oak Stand(Built) Custom Oak Canopy(Built) 70 Watt Metal Halide HQI Double Ended Pendent(Swapped a new 150 W/ Debbie) 70 Watt Ushio 14,000K HQI Double Ended Bulb(DIYREEF) 70 Watt Aromat 70 Watt HQI Ballast(Had) 5 40mm Cooling Fans(Had) 5.5 Gallon Sump(Had) Mini-jet 606 Return Pump(Had) ~75GPH return IceProbe Aquarium Chiller(Had) Ranco Temperature Controller(Had) 100W submersible heater(Had) ASM Baby G skimmer (Got a deal) Ocean Runner 2500 Closed Loop Pump(Purchased Thanks Adam) 625GPH Oceans Motions Squirt(Had) 2 Oceans Motions Revolutions(Had) Oceanus Topoff System(Had) This is one cool little Nano. It is a work in progress, but here is What I have. I knew I had one big dilemma to overcome with this project. How to take care of heat issues. I built 5 40mm case fans into the canopy. These push 31.2 CFM total. I also built the canopy in a way that would help draw air around the 70W MH lighting pendant. The next way to keep the system cool was to add an IceProbe Chiller to the sump. The final thing I did was to examine the wattage of pumps very closely to keep water heating from pumps to a minimum. The submerged return pump runs only 6 watts, and the closed loop pump will be mounted outside the water. That allows the air to remove some of its' 38 Watts of heat. The tank itself is a 13 gallon custom acrylic. It is basically a 16" tall 10 gallon tank. It was modified with a 1", and a 3/4" bulkhead. The 1" bulkhead is for the overflow. Which is a Glass Holes 2-300GPH model overflow with fingers. The first thing I did was cut the tops of the fingers off a little to make for a higher water level in the tank. The Overflow drains out the back, and down into the 5.5 gallon sump. Which is where I installed the IceProbe, and a single baffle. The Mini Jet 606 returns the water from the sump by 1/2 bent PVC , and two 1/4" Loc-Lines. The closed loop on this system has proved to be a little trying. I picked the Ocean Runner pump & the Oceans Motions equipment for this system from my tubs of stuff. The problem here is that the Ocean runner pump is hose barbed, and the Oceans Motions stuff is 3/4" PVC. I had to plumb this with a combination of hose, and pipe, while supporting everything so the water flows freely. I decided to place the Ocean Runner pump on the floor behind the tank. I didn't want to run hose out of the back of the tank, so the game plan here was to run a 3/4" bulkhead & PVC most of the way to the floor. Then it transitions to 1/2" hose to feed the pump. The Ocean Runner then runs up-wards through 1/2" hose. This runs into a 3/4" PVC ball valve into the Oceans Motions Squirt. I capped off two outputs on this. The other two outputs run through bent 1/2" PVC to the top of the tank. In order to hold the return piping I mounted the Squirt into a board on the back of the tank. Each of the two returns has an oscillating OM Revolution return head. The other important item to make this system run is an automatic topoff system. Due to the fans, and the Metal Halide lighting a lot of evaporation should take place, so I put on an Oceanus topoff on this. I decided to use a Mini-jet 404 for the feed pump on that. The display will has a 3.75" sand bed, and there is about 20-22 or so pounds of live rock in the system. Corals will most likely be SPS, LPS & Zoas. It is a work in progress. Here are some plumbing, and equipment shots. I picked up and modified a skimmer to fit the sump, but found that it needs further modification due to microbubbling. Here is a shot of the ASM Baby G skimmer with the pump moved from the bottom to the side. So I removed the pump, cut of the pump enclosure on the bottom, plugged the old pump input hole, and added a uniseal to the side of the skimmer for the feed pump. I still want to do a gate valve, and a recirculating mod on this to help control micro bubbles. Here is a picture of it in the sump. The next few pics are of the plumbing; you may notice my extensive use of bent PVC. The first pic is the plumbing directly behind the tank. From the bottom left to right we have, the closed loop intake, left closed loop return, the overflow to the sump, the right closed loop return, and the sump return line. The last shot is a top down of the plumbing returns, and overflow. As you may notice the closed loop returns are using a pair of Ocean Motions Revolutions. The sump return is using a pair of 1/4" Loclines. Here is a shot of the Oceans Motions Squirt on the closed loop. This picture is is for all you equipment geeks out there; it is a full system shot from behind without the canopy. As you may see there is a pair of power strips in this photo. The left power strip is the always on, and the right is on the lighting timer. This was just before I spun the tank around. Well with that it was time to spin the tank around, and really get to starting it up. The first thing I did after spinning the tank around was to add a 40# bag Of CaribSea Reef Grade sand. This leveled out at about 3.75" wet. I then proceeded to level the tank. After that I added RO/DI water to the tank, sump, and topoff reservoir. Here is a shot. I then added about 8-9 cups of salt to the sump, and let that set over night. When I tested the water in the morning I found I overshot my mark, and adjusted my salinity. After that settled for a few hours I added about 20-22 pounds of rock supported on 3.75" PVC pylons. Here is a crappy video of the running cycling tank. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4...46121&hl=en This is my progress so far. Now it is up to the cycle.
  13. Your idea will work. The big fault in the system is that the surge pump will be tore up quickly from the wear and tear of the constant starts & stops.
  14. Nano-Reef.com Birthday Giveaway

    Happy Birthday
  15. retrofit nano dx with sunpaqs?

    I put in a dual 32w Sunpag in my standard nanocube. I had to cut off the endcaps, and use connectors from a circleline ballast.
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