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  1. Spa-flex might be what you are looking for. RV potable water hose is extremely flexible, but I don’t think that it is strong enough for what you are trying to acomplish. Aquarium pumps aren’t designed for a high suction head, they need to to have the water level higher than the input to not cavitate and to actually pump water. They need water pressure on the input to push water, they don’t pull a strong suction. You can overheat the pump and shorten the life as it is working harder than intended and it doesn’t have as efficient cooling as it would sitting in the water. Also verify that the pump is suitable for running out of water. Not all pumps that have intake fittings are rated for running externally. That being said, I am doing something similar with mine. I am running 1 1/2” rigid PVC for the intake, set up so I can pre-fill the plumbing and suck the air out of the plumbing. The pump needs to sit below the water level, below the tank would be better. Think of it being set up so that the water is siphoning into the intake, not the pump pulling the water up over the edge of the aquarium. With the pump off, water should stay in the intake tubing/piping.
  2. @metrokat just gave a talk about this a few weeks back at Frag Farmer’s Market. She had some good advice based on a tragic event helping a friend move and struggles from her last move. If you have the ability to start moving into the new place before you are moving out of the old place, setting up the 20 in the new place will help reduce the stress of the move, ensure that you have clean water and a clean system to move everything into, and let you take your time getting the 15 set up. Corals out first, rock second, then fish. Get the buckets, or what ever you are using to transport, set up with water before you start trying to remove corals from the tank. Once you start moving rock or trying to catch fish, debris will start getting kicked up and the water will be dirty in a hurry. Not prepping water beforehand and planning on bagging the fish with tank water is what lead to the issues in Kat’s story. Once the water was dirty, everything went down hill. They lost almost every fish and a large portion of the corals.
  3. Or run your ATO through it if it can handle the volume/flow rate. You could also just run a spare channel to run RO through it after each of the other components run. It would help offset your ATO.
  4. That’s a decent solution if your doser supports external sensors. Or are you using that to cut power to the doser? I use those restricters on my air driven ATO to limit the drip rate and prevent over filling as the air pressure bleeds off. It was originally set up on a half gallon cube, so the extra volume after the float opened had a measurable effect on specific gravity. I’m working on getting my dosing system set up. I am making a stock solution that allows me do dose a larger volume of solution to better control how much is dosed (15ml broken up over 5 doses instead of trying to split up less than 1ml). My dosing container will hold 10 days worth of doses (intent is to replenish every 7 days with 3 day buffer for missing scheduled top off). My tank isn’t consuming a large amount on a daily basis, so if the doser were to fail on, it would be able to handle the full 10 day addition. Corals wouldn’t be too happy with the full alkalinity addition all at once, but it wouldn’t be as bad as dumping a smaller volume of a stronger concentration.
  5. Center bracing is less critical with standard tanks as the weight is on the outer edges of the tank, the bottom glass is elevated. How stable was table? With a tank, you also need to consider stability with water sloshing around. If you are in an earthquake prone area (or have young kids), that is another thing to consider. See if you can get the wall tie-in brackets from the damaged/clearance section from another piece of furniture or get some angle supports or corner brackets from a local hardware store to tie the table to the wall if there are stability concerns.
  6. Glad to hear things are turning around for you. The Bayer is intended specifically for killing invertebrates. Your shrimp and crabs (and anemones) are invertebrates, the fish and corals are not. That is why you got the reaction you did. Luckily it looks like some of your inverts pulled through. Some poeple go to more extremes with their dips. There are certain pests that are extremely difficult to deal with, but if you aren’t dealing with super high end stuff or from tanks that are known to be infested, it typically isn’t necessary to go that far. I use two dips, but have been thinking of going over to Bayer as a single dip. Another thing to not is to not dip anemones. They are invertebrates, which will be harmed by most dips. It is typically easier to try to get it to release from whatever it is attached to and add it straight to the tank. Peroxide is a good dip for zoanthids and palythoa and works great for controlling/eliminating algae, but it wreaks havoc on SPS. So be careful if treating in your tank and definitely don’t dip SPS in peroxide.
  7. Nyos for Mg and Ca Salifert fo KH
  8. If anybody is in Western Mass, Dave’s Pet and Soda City has has Aqueon 2.5 gallon tanks. Complete with janky seams if you want to join the Janky Tank Posse. There are some with good seams if you look.
  9. Craigslist of the LFS... either way you’re likely getting at least some rock from someone’s tank. Most tank breakdowns go back to the store it came from.
  10. What I am dosing is slightly less than ideal as it is left over chemicals from my planted tanks that I broke down a while back. It has potassium and phosphate, so I need to monitor both, but it has been keeping my porassium about where I want it. People will typically use trisodium phosphate. You want something with fairly high purity. It is usually easier to make a stock solution with a known concentration so you don’t have to calculate and measure out the dose every time. So much easier to be able to dose 1ml per 1ppm for your given tank volume.
  11. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx I’d set it up as a Bean Animal as well. More reliable and quieter. Doesn’t require tuning the pump to the drain and the drain to the pump. Self adjusting to a fairly wide degree once you get it tuned.
  12. That film is predominantly proteins. I don’t think I need to state what protien skimmers are intended to remove. 😛 If the film is building up in the first chamber, that would be the best place to put it. 30ppm nitrate isn’t horrible, but is higher than where most people prefer to run their tanks. But if it is stable, nutrients are staying around that level, you aren’t having growth issues, and you aren’t having algae issues, there isn’t a need to change anything. The film will break down, though usually slower than it builds, contributing to nutrients increasing. I used to use paper towels to suck up the film in my fresh water planted aquariums. If the film is building up, you don’t have enough flow to keep the first chamber turbulant allowing the film to settle out. This can be a good thing though as it gives you the opportunity to remove it manually. Phosphate is part of the macronutrients that the zooxanthellae need for photosynthesis, so some phosphates are good, but if levels get too high, or out of ballance with nitrate, nuisance algae can take hold and outcompete for nutrients, making a mess out of your tank, slowing coral growth due to outcompeting and chemicals they release to stunt the growth of other organisms. If you are seeing good growth and are not having algae issues in your display, I’d say you are likely fine without a phosphate test kit, especially since nitrates are on the higher end of the range. If you find nitrates have dropped quite a bit and are seeing no/slowed growth or that the coral colers are starting to look washed out or almost pastel, you might want to get a kit or at least get your water tested to see if your phosphate has dropped to zero.
  13. 4 MAY 2019 Groton Inn and Suites 99 Gold Star Highway Groton, CT https://keeponreefingexpo.com/ Is anybody that showed up for Frag Farmer’s Market heading to KOR? Quite a different feel from FFM, but equally amazing from what I understand. I haven’t gone to this show, but I have heard really good things. Scott from Ocean State Aquatics (OSA) puts this on. There isn’t a lot of info on the website, but I know he was posting a lot of youtube videos and is pretty active over there, so I’m sure he’s got plenty on this year’s show.
  14. I never got the idea that the almost non detectable nutrients in the open waters around reefs meant that 0 phosphate and nearly non-detectable nitrate was ideal. Zooxanthellae are photosynthetic organisms that need the same macro nutrients land dwelling plants need. They also paradoxically state that the coral gets all the nutrients they need from the zooxanthellae, but do everything they can to starve out the zooxanthellae, depriving them of nutrients.
  15. That’s not quite a raffle. It’s basically gambling for corals as you mentioned. I’ve heard of these before, but it is usually a bigger pool for more expensive corals. If they are run fair, it isn’t set up so that the pool total is multiples of what the corals actually cost or with fake random generators that benefit a select predetermined few. There are ways to set up serious scams with these, but with the small pool and low cost, I wouldn’t imagine that this would be the case. Some people claim to do pretty well with these to breaking even, or only a slight loss over retail. For these to be worth while, you really need to be in a lot of them and consistently. It is playing averages, with a lot of chance thrown in. If you only play sporadically, you are unlikely to win. If you play a lot, you will hit more and approach a level where it breaks even. Most people hope to at least break even and consider the losses as entertainment fees (of course with the hopes that they will win a high dollar or desirable piece). If you hit a bad run, you could end up with nothing, or with ugly pieces you have no interest in. It is pure chance. Playing is clearly up to you, but if you set limits on spending and losses and are okay with those losses and can view it as entertainment with a potential reward, it can be fun. Just don’t go into it thinking you are going to come out on top. You *are* gambling, only one of those ten people is going to win.
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