Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Beer

  • Rank
    Community Member
  1. Beer

    Connecting Two Aquarium Systems

    Typically, if people are connecting multiple displays, they tie into one sump. Tieing the sumps together can be tricky, especially if they are both on the same level. You need to consider inflow to each sump when all pumps are off, how much will drain into each sump, and how the tie-in system will affect levels in both sumps. You also need to consider what will happen when the return pump is off in only one tank, each system will respond differently. What happens if the ATO fails off in one tank? What happens if the ATO fails on in one tank? What happens if the ATO runs dry on both sumps? What happens if multiple things occur that pushes more water into the sump with the smallest reserve capacity than any one condition? One pump fails, nearly filling the smallest sump and running the larger sump return section low due to the layout of the tie-in system, causing the ATO to run in the large sump. As the ATO fills, what is mostly RO/DI gets pushed to the smaller sump, causing salinity to drop in the smaller system and allowing the sump to overflow. The auto shutoff fails in the ATO (assuming there was one), so the reservoir gets emptied into the smaller system. Salinity bottoms out because you had a larger ATO reservoir so you could go on vacation for a week, which you filled up this morning, immediately before leaving the house. No idea why I felt the story was necessary, but there you go. If the smaller sump sits higher than the larger sump, you can match the flow rate from the small sump to the large sump to the rate the biocube flows to the small sump, you can have the biocube drain to the small sump, which drains to the large sump, which is sent back to the biocube by the return pump, which could be separate from the 55’s return pump or have a shared return pump with a valve to throttle flow to the smaller tank. The 55 would drain directly to the sump. You definately need backup drains and need to run something that will compensates in some way as the flow from the biocube changes. It also shouldn’t have a drain that can loose siphon if it doesn’t have the ability to self start. Trying to tune the sump drain to match the biocube drain with valves would be risky as any changes to the flow rate of the biocube drain would adversly affect the level in the small sump as it cannot compensate very much and would be more likely to clog. It would be better to have the sump drain be slightly faster and potentially noisy. Running larger backup and energency drains that are above the water line of the large sump wouldbe a good idea so you are alerted when there is an issue. If the systems are close enough to tie together, they could share the sump. You will need space for what backflows from both tanks. I think this will be the most simple, easy, and most reliable way to run it. If you still really wanted to use your sump (you built it, be proud of it), you could set the sump higher and use it remotely to run media or reactors, possibly use it as a display refugium. Maybe you could modify it to use as a quarantine or hospital tank. You could have both systems plumbed to one tank, but have one of the systems also run to the small sump. There are some risks with this one too.
  2. Beer

    anyone know how to design a 10g into a AIO?

    Ha! Thanks. I didn’t notice that the last person to post dredged up a ten year old post. I have to start paying attention to that more. Somewhere along the line the recommended posts on the main page started showing old posts. People respond to them like they are current topics, so they show up at the top of the list in the sub forums. It is the same reason we see people from the other side of the country trying to buy things from our local club announcements on another forum.
  3. Beer

    anyone know how to design a 10g into a AIO?

    I think his point may have been that there are plently of prebuilt AIO tanks that will end up Less expensive than what you will end up spending here to convert a $100 tank into an AIO. Typically, if someone is going this route, they have a specific plan for something that the pre-built tanks are ill suited for or aren’t able to support. Do you have the tools to get the perfectly straingt cuts necessary to be able to solvent weld acrylic panels to the tank? Is the back panel of the tank black? If not, you will be able to see straight into the chambers, potentially ruining the asthetic you are going for. I don’t have any plans for that tank specifically, but I do typically heavily modify or completely custom build my own solutions. You will need to build the additional three walls and base and install you baffels. Do you know how many chambers you want? Are you going to run any sort of mechanical filtration or media? This will drive your chamber design. You mentioned a fuge, which is typically a bit more difficult to do with an AIO due to the limited space. What is your intent with the fuge? Are you trying to grow macro? Are you trying to grow pods for a fish that typically needs additional supplimentation? AIOs typically don’t have sufficient space for this. Is a bucket sump a possibility? (It runs like a remote sump/closed loop). Typically when people modify a tank for an AIO, they start with a glass tank as they are able to silicone the chambers into the tank (most silicones do not bond to acrylic enough to build the chambers outside of the tanks). Silicone is a little more forgiving with the cut tolerances.
  4. I bought Nyos nitrate and phosphate test kits, performed one test out of each, then performed a second test to compare to the Salifert kits I forgot I had (I only remembered after opening the chemicals). Both kits were about the same. I decided to stick with the Salifert, mostly due to the shorter wait times before readings and not really needing the accuracy of the Nyos kits (I really do like the Nyos kits and may go with them in the future). Both kits shipped for $45. Expiration dates: Nitrate - June 2020, lot NIT 20-500 Phosphate - June 2021, lot PHO 23-500
  5. Beer


    No, I don’t. I’m debating what to do with it. I cracked the glass installing a lockline fitting (not even any salt creep after a year+), so I’m going to replace the back pane at some point. I need to decide if I am going to notch the glass for an overflow like I have it now or return it to a stock tank. If I do keep it like it is now, do I set it up for a stand behind sump or do I build an overflow box so it can be plumbed for a sump below the tank. I might just list it for sale and leave it up to whomever buys it. If I rebuild it, I’ll make a thread for it.
  6. Beer

    coralife Tri-lamp

    This was last March. I was at a fresh water fish auction and they had a pile of these. I was thinking of picking them up if they went for short money. They ended up going for more than I was willing to pay to experiment with them.
  7. I think Blake’s Aqua Den had a bunch yesterday. There was a huge hammer colony that they were fragging up for $10/head. Green with purple tips. Last year there were a couple vendors with tanks dedicated to euphyllia.
  8. What size tank and what equipment are you planning on running? If you have a smaller tank, you likely won’t be running that at full power, possibly less than 50%. DC pumps are fairly cost effective now and pull less power than AC pumps. A Kill-A-Watt meter will let you know exactly what you are pulling from each of your devices. You likely aren’t pulling the full 750W and you most certainly aren’t running near that limit all the time. You do need to account for max load, but I’d be surprised if you actually are using the majority of the power supply’s capacity; even with a gaming rig. They are usually overbuilt. People that run larger systems often run dedicated circuits for thier tanks. If you own your home, that might be an option if the tank is worth that for you.
  9. I like LPS as well. Not typically too big on euphillia due to long sweeper tenticals in small tanks, but I just ended up picking one up yesterday. I’ve been considering a rockflower lately. There were some intense color morphs at the show last year. With my bigger tank, they should work out, as long as there is no risk to my dragonette or future fish.
  10. [Edit: I just looked at your tank journal, you have more experience that I realized. The name threw me :D] Start doing your research on what types of coral you want to keep now. That way you have an idea on what to look for and what to avoid (compatibility, size, and difficulty). Most of the vendors are willing to talk with you, but if it is really busy, it can be difficult to get detailed care information. There are certain times when things are slammed and peices are moving fast, hasty decisions get made, and you end up with something that isn’t well suited for your tank. You can find pretty much everything you could want there for corals. Vendors will bring specialty items and fish if you ask.
  11. Beer

    Something Bit Mandarin

    Check the clown’s mouth. I’d suspect that more than the fire fish. Look for white tissue, like it got a chemical burn. Wouldn’t be the first time a clown nipped a mandarin, though it is usually the last. It typically only takes one taste for a fish to learn that mandarins are not a tasty snack and that they should be avoided. How is the dragonette doing now? Leaving the dragonette in the tank with everybody else will likely lead to the least stress and quickest recovery. If it wasn’t for the slime coat and toxicity (only when eaten) of the mandarin, isolation would likely be a good idea, but if she isn’t being pestered, isolation will only lead to stress and a longer recovery time. The lack of food will not be helpful, especially if she is not trained to prepared/frozen.
  12. I work over in Windsor, but live in MA. Do you know of CTARS? It is the local club. The current board is stepping down (they have been running it for a few years now and need to step back) and we are trying to find new board members. It looks like we’re going to be able to keep the club going, but people haven’t fully committed yet. I’l try to remember to pop back in here to let you know if everything works out and when the next club meeting will be. There are two of us currently that run nano tanks. I’d love to see more people in the club with smaller tanks. Most people see these as a novelty and don’t realize how viable or easy they can be to maintain.
  13. Beer

    Switching Salt

    I’ve switched brands with 100% water changes with no ill effect, on two different occasions, but the parameters were pretty closely matched. [I was running a pico with a sump at the time with a full system volume of one gallon. 100% water changes were the norm.] Which version of the Red Sea salt are you using? The Coral Pro has pretty high alkalinity from what I’ve heard. If you are using that, you might want to keep the water change percentage a little bit lower. You should probably be fine with the blue bucket, though you should probably test the new water so you know what the difference in parameters is. If you aren’t currently having problems, there isn’t a rush to get all of the old water out of there. Switching over with 10-15% water changes, should be fine if there isn’t a drastic difference in parameters.
  14. If not, it is still worth the trip. The first year I went, I didn’t have anything set up. It was still a good time.
  15. Beer


    I've done the peroxide treatments plenty of times with great success. But treating right next to SPS hasn’t worked out for me. Also not sure how much the size of my tank affected that. Typically the SPS would just be pissed for a couple days, but last time it took out my Katropora (less than .5ml in 4 gallons total volume of hydrogen peroxide diluted to 3%). Mros, if you are still running your lights on a normal schedule, you can definitely cut back, or completely turn them off, while you get everything back under control and treat the algae situation. I’m not seeing anything in the tank that looks like it needs light to survive, other than the algae. If you are keeping the lights on because you are concerned with coraline growth (it looks like there is a small amount growing), don’t. I just transferred tanks a week ago and still have the old one running with no lighting. I always struggled to grow coraline, but it has really taken off getting a small amount of ambient light in my basement apartment with very little indirect, very dim light.