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Muraki

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About Muraki

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    Raleigh, NC

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  1. porcelain crab care

    I have the anemone type, he is about 4 years old. Was on an RBTA for 2 years in a 5 gallon nano, before moving to a 22L and living on GSP. I've never once had any issues, and he eats along with everyone else on the daily feedings with no extra supplemental feeding. My RBTA never had an issues with the crab sticking to him like glue, but 3 crabs on one RFA may be a bit much . So I don't blame you for going for the Caribbean type. Personally I think they are hardier than Emerald Green crabs, I can't keep those alive for longer than 18 months.
  2. Hermit crab help?

    Sounds like one has a shell the other likes. Get some extra shells in the tank, that may possibly help. Otherwise, remove one. I love/hate hermits, greedy little buggers.
  3. ryans_ mr aqua 22 gallon long

    Looking good! And I copied off of Scorched. : ) 1 set should be enough depending on the flow you put through it. I sometimes amp mine up to 2000gph for a few hours to flush the tank through a filter sock. 1 set barely handles it when I cover the other with my hand. So just makes sure to keep the guard cleaner then I keep mine. I let Macro grow on mine sometimes, such as blue ochtodes and red grape.
  4. 36" nano build thread (continued from another thread)

    If you are stateside I can ship you chaeto for just the cost of shipping. So easily less then $14 priority. Might even be able to do an envelope for less then $8. Not sure how well it would handle with the colder temperatures though. I probably tossed out about a 5 gallon bucket full last month.
  5. Haha I could tell you had more experience than me for sure. But now I know what you would want, and I would vote for Tidal pool or even a mudskipper setup.
  6. I see number 3 as winning because Macro Algae is a huge nutrient exporter when cultivated and removed from the tank. Making it far simpler in keeping Nitrates below 5ppm with little to no water changes depending on the bio load. I personal run a Macro, soft, LPS tank with inverts and 6 fish. Most of my macro is in the sump, but overall I have not done a water change in over 18 months. Nitrates read 0 on an API kit. Dosing is a must though. I'm a lazy low maintenance person my self. I spend 15 minutes each day on the tank. Dose, Feed, Top off. That is it. Once every three months I scrape the glass, or clean the sandbed of debris. Overall I love doing things with the tank, but water changes are something i'm experimenting to avoid entirely. Maybe your definition of Low maintenance may be helpful in the voting process. : ) Most of your other options will still require far more maintenance in comparison to a macro tank because there isn't much in place for nutrient export other than water changes. Votes may change depending on more detailed scenarios for each theme you are requesting votes for. Without these details most will take on the more general definition of each option you have provided. NPS corals require heavy feedings normally which means more maintenance, so in all honesty, I don't for see that ever being a "Low maintenance" option. Side note: Most avoid canister filters with the pain of cleaning them out. The only options I would even consider to be potential low maintenance would be the below 4 options. Mangroves <-- Normally takes a fair sized tank to make an awesome setup, there are a few on this forum. Mangroves get large, and the root system is what makes them interesting in my opinion. Softies <---- They flourish in nutrient rich water, With little to no fish, maintenance can remain low. Macroalgae + Sea Grass + Feather Dusters <--- Have nutrient export, pH stability, and many other benefits. A macro oriented tidel pool could be included in this category. Anemones + Hosting Invert(s) <---- Once the tank is mature, normally fairly simple. Loved my RBTA and porcelain crab combo in my Fluval Spec V.
  7. Spider web inside my tank?

    I also vote to remove them. They are fine in a sump, but in a display with corals, they are unsightly and like everyone states, they can take over. They are an easy nuisance to remove when caught early. Once the population increases and you have a stocked tank, they become increasing difficult to remove. I had a 5 gallon tank where I did let them take over, some of their tubes got as large as a pencil in diameter and their mucus net would cover the entire tank. It never killed any corals, but whenever the net was cast out, the corals wouldn't fully open, which was probably 50% of the time.
  8. Spider web inside my tank?

    Vermetid snail mucus. They can become a pain, so kill/remove them. They release the mucus like a net and then reel it back in.
  9. Macro, softie, LPS build with inverts. Enough macro, water changes would only be needed to replace elements and not for nutrient reduction.
  10. As long as they are introduced at the same time, you have a good shot. But once they settle in, they are very territorial. Also, any shrimp or crabs smaller then a full grown cleaner shrimp will also be in danger. Mine is perfectly happy with all the other fish in the display, 6 fish total in a 22L. But if I try to add a new addition...... That is a no go. But, my current Orchid Dotty back is housed with 2 clowns, a green mandarin, Molly Miller Blenny, and a blue Neon Goby. Tank has been going for 2 years now.
  11. New hitchhiker starfish opinions

    Vast majority are harmless. All mine prefer scraping the bare parts of the rock between coral, or stick to the glass for the film algae.
  12. Removed Live Rock

    If you have very porous rock, you can get away with very little. Porous > Weight
  13. -Figured I would toss in an opinion as I run a setup as the one you suggest. Please remember as this is just my experience, and I do not know of many others that do the same that are under 53 gallons total water volume. Most are in 100+. -Everyone is right that it is easier to maintain the proper chemistry levels with a routine water change. I desired the little to no water change approach. I've still been experimenting and learning first hand. 22L Display hooked to a 50 gallon Sump with a 18 Gallon refugium. I use three 14W PAR bulbs 18-20 hours a day lighting the fuge. I dose and top of daily. Currently this setup works well for everything but SPS. Trying to fine tune for sps, and I think that just comes down to my manual dosing, which of course means my balance is off. I do have a few sps and lps that do well, including a clam, but overall this is a softie/fish/invert tank. Which I am more than happy with. I feed 1-2 times a day, and always feed frozen. My 2 cleaner shrimp spawn weekly, and molt successfully regularly. I even house Sea cucumbers, which I have to give some away since they have split. -I have gone probably ~18 months without a water change, I use a filter sock and a skimmer. If I get unwanted algae growth on my sandbed, I siphon it thru a filter sock to avoid water changes. I only have to go to this extreme maybe once every 3-4 months, and takes me 5-10 minutes. Hardest part is moving my clam around and out of the way. I haven't had nitrates read on any API test kit. Always 0. I'm sure there are nitrates, but most likely less then 5ppm, I don't bother getting a kit to verify. If you see my sump, it is a massive soup of macro algae. This also includes green hair algae, but very little and it gets included in the removal and trashing when I remove Macro as my main nutrient export. I have even had species of Caulerpa go sexual in the tank, all I do is a filter sock change/cleaning and go on with my day. The worst algae I get in my display is film algae on the glass, and cyano bacteria build up in the low flow spots, all easy cleanup/removal. Because of either the mild swings or not enough trace elements, I do notice I do not get the rapid growth that others get from their LPS and SPS corals. Softies grow like wildfire. Hopefully this gives you more details on what you are looking for along with everyone else's opinions/facts. The water change method is proven to work, and always the safest bet, specially with a nano system. I only went this direction because I don't mind the trial and error along with the fact that in all honesty I cannot deny I am a little lazy.
  14. Keep it simple with a pair of clowns. Or go with a Molly Miller Blenny / Lawnmower blenny.
  15. When they were discontinued, I gave one away to another forum member and held to the one I had in use like it was gold. Glad to hear they are back! I'll have to order a few and set them aside. Loved mine when I had it in use on the Spec V.
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