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About Muraki

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    Raleigh, NC

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  1. Little Spiky Slug Thing

    Isolate him, and see if he will eat cucumber or seaweed. Toss some other algae you can get with him as well. See if he appears to actively eat anything. Wouldn't hurt if you have a bubbler and a jar with a spare piece of small live rock. Shouldn't require to much to maintain in a separate system. See what happens! He also looks like a small sea hare to me as well.
  2. Can't decide, Steve's led or Nanobox retro

    Dave stands by his products and is always willing to help out with any questions or issues that may arise if any. 2+ years strong on my custom 36" 6 puck nanobox. No experience with Steves LED's, so I cannot give any positives or negatives there.
  3. Mystery Tentacles

    Only being in the tank for 2 days or so, I wouldn't fear anything. I've always had success just scraping them off into the sink and scrubbing the spot with a toothbrush. Never had any come back. Only ever had them on recently purchased frags or rock.
  4. Makes sense. I have never looked into it with that much detail. If you would like, since I have a similar setup / ratio you are aiming for, I can test the pH in any time increments you like.
  5. Sorry for the delay in response. Been out of town. From the little I know of mangroves, they get fairly large, In a system of that size, I do not for see the mangrove being starved out by the other macro's, just slow its growth. I feel like you would have more gardening work between the macro's themselves to stop them from starving one another, or shading one another to the point of stunting the growth. I tried to keep a Macro display section in my sump, but in the long run, I got lazy and it became a battle between Chaeto and Caulerpa. I had some Caulerpa go sexual, probably from the chaeto choking it out of nutrients and light, but again, this is only a guess. I have had so much random macro come and go at this point. I thought I lost all my Blue Octhodes, but magically they reappear randomly, same with other's. For the most part I have gone to using Chaeto only, the thick and Thin varients. So far the Thick appears to be the easier and cleanest aesthetically. I used Mangroves in the past, they grew without issues, but between space and my limited pruning, they just weren't for me. I vote if you keep one, definitely do it in the display, I am sure you can work its root system into the design to look phenomenal. I've seen systems that are designed around Mangroves, and I have always loved them. A lot of what I suggest or say, is personal opinion from what I have tried. We learn from trial and error, so go have some fun. As for the pH, I don't for see any issues specially if you can use the majority of that fuge space for macro, I keep macro in both my sump and display. Used to keep more in my display, but the turbo's ate nearly all of it, and I removed the Blue Ochtodes because I had a different algae issue to remove, and it in bedded itself into the Ochtodes, otherwise I would still have it in my display. Overall, Just have to find that happy medium with the amount of macro to the amount of fish/inverts in the tank to keep the nutrient levels and nitrates where you want them. I have to feed daily, if not twice a day. I have not had Nitrates read higher than 0 on an API test kit in the last 18 months with zero water changes. I probably need to get a salifert or Red sea kit since they can read lower, but I am just to lazy. pH and Nitrates will be the least of your concerns. Ca, KH, and Mg will be all you would have to actively monitor.
  6. THIS CLAM IS HUGE! Easily two foot long!

    Hopefully it continues to thrive in it's next home.
  7. Not sure what it is, but I have similar growth on my rock. Normally when I add an emerald crab and some turbo's, they make quick work of it. Snag a turbo, and place him in that area maybe? If lucky it'll get gobbled up.
  8. Personally Opinion, unless you have a setup specifically designed around mangroves, they don't do as much as a mixed macro display sump would. Using Macro's such as Caulerpa's, Blue Ochtodes, and other Red algae. I have had the best luck with C. prolifera, Never had any go sexual with my minimal maintenance schedule. C. sertulariodes and C. racemosa did very well for me as well, but did end up going sexual in my tank eventually. But never did any damage and between my skimmer and filter sock, cleared up in a day without a water change.
  9. Crab ID?

    Give her a tank of her own, and feed any naughty hermit crabs to her. : ) Species of Rock crab? Not sure where from with that pattern though.
  10. 50% of my system volume is a refugium. Lets just say, I have not done a water change in over a year. But between the macro and coraline algae, I have to dose a good bit even though I do not keep many hard corals. I see great success ahead in your adventures with this setup. : )
  11. What is this growing on my Candy coral

    I forget the name, but it can become a pest algae. My Turbo snails and emerald crabs gobble it up in my tank though. Regardless of its length.
  12. Blocking off intakes on established aquapod.

    I've used Stevie's Surface skimmers in the past with success on my Fluval Spec V. Also helped me have more control on the water level in the tank. But I did still close up the opening below.
  13. Blocking off intakes on established aquapod.

    I used superglue gel in the past on an established tank without issues. Years later I went to clean the tank, and was able to chip the superglue off and away.
  14. Looks like I missed out on a potential party while I was away.