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sirruckus

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About sirruckus

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  1. Hello group, years have gone by with this light. We have recently started losing corals. One potential variable is our light. The ldd board had got wet at one time and causes sooner short circuiting we have since repaired the board but but perhaps there are damages we have over looked. Right now, using the par meter from seneye we are measuring about 300 above the surface of the water with lights about 90%. This seems low? Suggestions on what to test?
  2. Ben, just a follow up of my build after your help and everything. Very happy with how it turned out! I have asked this question in the lighting forum, however you might chime in here rather than there. wondering if there are recommended power settings for certain color combinations that might be considered "coral growing mode" etc. something what I have heard the Radio pro's have? it would be neat to see a "suggested" color ramp time / delay and power level on a few LED color combinations.
  3. Hello All, I tried doing a search and couldn't find what i was looking for. Wondering if it has been posted or if anyone has considered putting together a general ramp time / power level of LED color combonations used in DIY builds. I've finished mine using coralux and ledgroup buy products and very happy with what it can do. but it would be interesting if we were able to confirm a proven ramp time / power levels of certain color combinations. does that thread exist or should I start off by stating what my Set up consists of and get input. I guess what I'm trying to get it - is if we could figure out certain ratios that would mimic predetermined settings on store bought fixgtures, i.e.. Radions etc.
  4. Hey Ben, Thanks for the insight - unfortunately I've purchased this LED hardware and it has been sitting on my shelf the the last 6 months. Just before LED group buy started to carry these new brands. regardless, I'm sure I'll be pleased using what i have. One has to draw the line, as technology in this department will continue to grow year by year.
  5. Hello Ben, is this arrangement too cluttered together like a metal halide? I take it doing rows would be easier for wiring reasons vs what I have shown. led-Model.pdf
  6. too late - I've ordered this stuff months ago and finally ready to build it. the LED's and heat sink will not change, only the configuration.
  7. Hello everyone, I've read some guides about the LED arrangements from LED group buy - and tried applying what I observed onto my set up. Attached should be a drawing of the LED arrangement (the same arrangement in 5 locations). anyone with experience able to confirm if the layout look acceptable? heat sink is 9" wide x 4'-6" long
  8. Hello guys, Wondering if you have a suggested layout for LED's? Tank is 60" x 24" x 20" deep plan to run: 24 NW 48 RB 12 CB 30 Hyper Violets 10 - 3 up OCW 4 RB moon lights Will be making the heat sink myself - suspect a size of 50" long x 10-12" wide should suffice
  9. Thanks Ben, sounds like you suggest 24 NW , 48 RB , 12 Cool blue? 30 hyper violets 12 OCW 3 ups - or a combination of warm whites and cyan (have a ratio, or quantities you suggest?) I appreciate your help! I see myself using the storm X also are there patterns you suggest - spacing?
  10. Hello Ben, I used an excel spread sheet calculator I found linked from LEDGROUPBUY found here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/304152-led-lighting-calculator-i-update-the-file-um-semi-regularly/ the tank measures 24" wide x 60" long x 20" deep - hope to have the lighting higher up to allow for reaching in without touching light, lets say 14-18" above water = 34-38" from bottom of tank Milad has been really helpful and steered me in your direction for advice. My expecations are only to have LPS, zoas that kind of thing - however my theory with many things is better to over build, or prepare for future changes, such as SPS. I would expect running more LED's would just offer a more consistant PAR rating, while having to dim down - rather than focuses areas with the same PAR rating. Also the value of a fixture that others might be interested in, provided I ever want to change tanks, or plans change - would be more appealing if it was able to support anything - rather than only specific amount. The addition of UV is obviously for growth - I see you suggest hyper instead of true - yes? the OCW and blue is strictly for added color from what I know. The calculator I used for 24" deep tank (mine is 20") suggests the following: 32 whites - 60 degree optics 64 R.B - 60 degree optics 12 OCW - no optics as per your suggestion from my own calculations I figured the following quantities for additional LED's: 40min UV - hyper violet - 60 degree optics (heard of problems of embrittlement, if true - ways to avoid?) 16 blue - 60 degree optics 3-5 R.B. led's for moon lites - no optics I welcome your input, if you need to change your original suggestion after what I've said. I've also attached a current LED Schematic - will look into a controller that you suggested that will allow me to dim any benefit from running a high noon set up (seen this on a competitors website) which think would introduce high power whites in the middle of the day for a short time? this would consist of a half dozen or so XM-L neutrual whites. LED LAYOUT.pdf
  11. Hello guys, I have been wanting to do a DIY build for awhile and will be setting up a new 60" x 24" foot print tank shortly. using an online excel spread sheet for a guideline on how many LED's to use, i've decided to do the over build options as follows: via 3UP X-TE solderless LED's: 40 - neutral whites 80 - royal blues Via 3UP ocean whtie solderless LED's: 16 - 660nm is 2.2v @700mA 16 - 495nm is 3.5v @ 700mA 16 - 470nm is 3.5v @ 700mA via 3UP solderless True Violet LED - 405nm 72 - true violets 3.5v @ 700mA 5 - royal blue for moonlites I understand that I could use this DC power source 500watts - 10.4amps: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/500w-48v-10-4a-dc-power-supply/ with conguntion of 14 of these: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-300hw-led-driver/ now I wanted to use the DIM 4 controller so the lights come on in the morning, shut off at night - turn the fans on during those hours, but then turn on moon lights. I would have all but the moon lites come on from one channel (asign to channel one) - however I loose the idea on how I could dim each individiual driver - ultimately color. if it was upto me I would have 6 knobs to control the intensity of the day time colors and one dedicated for the moonline intensity. this build without the confidence on controlling these colors, and without a heat sink i is around $1,400 but feel it should perform to the same standards if not more than a Vertex Illumina alternative ideas on how to drive the LED's and control each other is welcome.
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