Jump to content

pgrVII

Members
  • Content Count

    8,890
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About pgrVII

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  1. So the Y connection broke on my tank when installing the new pump I got today. Was able to rig a T connection from home depot with clear 1/2" tubing ๐Ÿ™„ But,the controller wont go past 14 on the flow controller ๐Ÿ™„ Pump is quiet but... Glad I got it from @Marine Depot so return should be easy,hmmm maybe they can ship it out with my new Y connector that I gotta order.
  2. Wow dude.โœจ๐ŸŽ‡๐ŸŽ†๐Ÿ˜Ž
  3. Thanks buddy! From the OG himself!
  4. This is to help the growing number of people getting these awesome creatures and then having a bunch of questions. Fear not! This should make finding info. easier and more a one stop shop of sorts. That said,ask questions of course!! Basics Bubbletip Anemones (BTAs) are a host to a bunch types of clownfish,but in the aquarium they will be accepted by most kinds readily,including the Ocellaris. They will accept food along with good flow and lighting. Water chemistry is just standard reef tank parameters so I wont get into that as theres plenty info elsewhere about that. The most important thing is stable water chemistry, so its best if the tank has been up and running a while before adding them. Acclimation So you've brought your BTA home and have a spot picked and cant wait to place it in. Sweet! But hold up a sec. Lets float that bag a bit and temp acclimate it. Now,lots of people have their own process to get their critters used to their water etc. I honestly just float the bag a while(15-20 mins) cut the mp10 off and place it where I want it to settle roughly. I dont turn my return off,because it may settle where their needs arent met when you turn both pumps back on,so I like to provide some flow for it so it gets a better feel for the tank. Just make sure you're around to keep an eye on it. They have a foot,and can move. And probably will. Dont mess with them after placing them,unless you see immediate danger,you can cover power heads with some pantyhose and of course Vortechs have the foam cover. They will know what they need so let em find it. Generally if your tank is stable and needs are met,they stay put more or less off the bat. Or so Ive found. Main point,dont bother them,dont freak out and just enjoy the new addition. Lighting Pretty straight forward, BTAs will accept a variety of lights and intensities. LEDs work really well,as do T5 and halides. My exp.has been mostly LEDs from @DaveFason and they do great coloring and growing. They need however at least lighting that support moderate light corals,they can live on less with more frequent feedings,but, the colors will not be as nice. Do yourself a favor and make sure you have decent lights,for the health of the animal and to a lesser extent,enjoying the squishy rainbow you just got to the fullest! They love some light! Feeding BTAs like to eat.They dont HAVE too necessarily but do better when offered.I use formula 1 pellets,mysis,or freeze dried brine. All are readily accepted. Feed them 1-2x a month. You can feed them more if you wish but be warned they poop,alot,its a thick black goo,(like symbiote style) I will usually siphon it out with a turkey baster. The clowns may or may not feed them. My female has fed 1 ruby red dragonet,and 2 cleaner shrimp to theirs over the years,but dont really feed it prepared food. They will however help keep pesky shrimp from stealing the food like they do with coral. Any standard aquarium fare food will do, just use tongs to place a piece of food in the tentacles gently. Or a baster to squirt it in the same manner. Heres a video to help. Clownfish(as guests) Alot of times,clownfish will not show interest in an anemone, no matter how pretty it is or how much coin ya dropped. Sometimes they'd rather use a powerhead or toadstool then the beautiful BTA you got. There's a lot of info.out there to help the clowns along into their BTA. Showing videos or pics of clowns using Anemones, floating them together in a breeder box,swooshing them into it,baiting with food. In all honesty,I've found given time they will figure it out. Just leave them be, I've not used any tricks or the like to get mine to use the BTAs I've kept,they just figured it out. Dont rush them,as they seem to need to build up to the Anemones sting over time and sometimes you will see dark marks on them when they start this hosting process. This is pretty normal and not to worry all part of the process. Bubbles(or not) The bubble part of the bubble tips. No real evidence as to what causes them to bubble,theres 1000 new theories daily. Light,flow,food,temp.all are theories that may or not cause them to do this. I've had them be like this for months To them getting like this. So just keep the tank stable and they will be happy,bubbles or no. One side note I'll say not to add to the already large file of "could be's", I have noticed bubbles more often when feeding pellet food to them. ๐Ÿค” Selecting A BTA Good color to start. And should be sticky to the touch. No tears in the foot,thats just asking for trouble and usually leads to death for the nem for most. It should also have a tightly closed mouth (unless eating/pooping). Avoid ones that are more on the pale side and aimlessly wandering in the current. Other Info. Help!My BTA is wandering all over! Yep they do this just let them,only worry if they do it kinda aimlessly and for more than a week. Ive had them wander a while then just plant exactly where they started, cant say why they just do this. No worries they'll figure it out! Help! My BTA had stuff coming from its mouth! Ok. So this happens too. If its just a black tar looking goo,most the time it's poop. They look terrible when pooping and to a first time keeper it can look bad. Its fine,everybody poops! If it's more a white kinda stringy stuff thats another matter,usually this is the result if bad water chemistry and poor husbandry. This is the stomach contents and is usually a bad sign. Remove the nem to a breeder box so if it detaches it doesnt meet your powerhead(cause it will). Also,you will occassionally see it deflate and look like a wad of grumpy gum,this is what I call a water change. Basically,their sacks of water so every once in a while they need to freshen it up it seems so they deflate a bit then puff back up after a day or so. Tank Size this one is one of those,"everyones got an opinion" and thats cool,and as always the more room,the better. But, you'll see alot of pretty small nano tanks with a BTA in it,so again to each their own,learn from those keepers threads if thats a route you wanna go. Id say 20 gallons would be a good starting point for most folks. Corals(as neighbors) Mostly,I have kept them in tanks where every one is ok with each other. They dont seem to bother zoas or palys when they park near them,but some more sensitive corals may not fair well. Remember, these can get big,like 12" across or more pending care,and can travel. So keep that in mind planning your tank. Usually it can be best to put the BTA in first so you can kinda stage frags around it to help any conflict. But they are a great addition to a reef so worth the extra work. That about covers it. I will add to this as I think of anything. And of course add in your experiences too! I hope this helps the growing number of people getting BTAs. The biggest thing is less is more here,let them figure the tank out and settle in,you will be alot better off as will the BTA. They are the best part of a reef tank for me so I hope you enjoy them as much as I do! Also, shoutout to @Lawnman for helping come up with this idea to have a BTA info sticky! He has been known to keep some nice BTAs,as have many great Nano-Reefers!๐Ÿค™
  5. pgrVII

    The Goon

    Yea buddy,the catalina brand Honestly? Yes. I started the tank on it too. Nothing against IO,its great. But,and this goes for any salt mix,is its just that a mix to replicate. Granted you have other things to consider when buying it like cleanliness etc. But ya gotta figure they have a good system down by now(knock on wood) I also was reading an interesting article someone actually set up feeding experiments with coral and a handful of popular coral foods,and raw seawater. Long story short,it seemed that the seawater provided coral with the bulk of the nutrients it needed,whereas the others kinda seemed to put a show on with sure it will extend polyps etc but it seemed they didnt receive alot from coral foods,granted this is a laymans reading mind you. But that kinda steered me towards just running the tank on little equipment, good flow,low bioload and natural seawater. That way theres hopefully less crap I gotta put in the tank that can crowd it or nasty the water up.
  6. pgrVII

    The Goon

    Might also be time to upgrade to a bigger heater. The basement gets a bit cooler than the rest of the house in winter so I'm thinking the 150w instead of 100w neotherm thats called for the 25 gallon.๐Ÿค”
  7. My Duo over IM lagoon 25๐Ÿค™
  8. pgrVII

    The Goon

    Did a 5 gallon water change Sunday, I think I will stick to every 2-3weeks with filtered seawater. Its a bit more expensive, but,its fresh clean seawater,so its kinda hard to beat. And I usually get it for $6 for 5 gallons so its not terrible. Plus I can still make my own if needed at home of course. Just like the idea of natural seawater. Also,the mighty jet comes from @Marine Depot tomorrow.
  9. Welcome back,hell of a lagoon ya got for sure! I like the reds and oranges in the front!
  10. Where did you dig up a weeping willow? Nice catch for sure buddy.
  11. pgrVII

    The Goon

    Underwater muppet with that polyp extension.
ร—