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Mazzy21

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About Mazzy21

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  • Birthday November 28

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    Michigan GO BLUE!
  1. x-posted on reef central but got no response so hopefully ppl here with have more experience with them. I have a new yellow gorg - Diodogorgia nodulifera. I honestly don't know a lot about gorgs except that they can be hard to deal with AND I also thought I was purchasing a photosynthetic one (so thought it would be easy) when I got this last week so I kinda am terrible with owning this species, but it is what it is. I have it now so I will attempt to keep it alive. It is a very healthy specimen. I got it at a swap in a bin full of them all laying on top of each other. I picked one with polyps fully extended and it has kept it's polyps extended for the entire week so far that I've had it. It has them fully extended even while I'm typing this. I honestly don't ever see it without it's polyps out except once so far and next time I looked it's polyps were out again. I have been putting microfeed in the water column daily (I understand the nutrient overload risk and will take steps to hopefully prevent the worst of that) and yesterday I did a 'direct' feeding (i.e. a few inches away flowing into ->) of the polyps. I am currently feeding New Life microfeed because that's what I had on hand but I am buying some ReefRoids (claims it is "THE food for gorgs"). My question is: The polyps are ALWAYS extended. Some closed a little with the direct feeding, assuming they caught some food, but opened right back up. Does this mean my gorg is starving and needs more or different food than I'm feeding? or are the polyps open because it's happy and catch a lot of food? I can tell you it isn't super firm/standing completely upright. It's a little flopsy.
  2. Congrats on the new nem!! I just got one too at the swap over the weekend but this one is a walker! He is doing good attaching right away when I touched his foot to a rock but he's been traveling ever since. I am pretty positive it's because of the Fluval being small and my equip being a little forceful in such a small tank - I have turned the MP10 down to 40% but it's still displacing sand and my big leather when it pulses, and my nem is small and clearly doesn't want to be badgered in a heavy current. He does bubble each time he stops for a few so I'm happy about that. I've gotten bubblers and non-bubblers in the past and this guy seems to be a bubbler. Looks like yours easily attached too and may have already found a good home! Good Luck!!!
  3. If you have one to sell message me!
  4. Carbon. I know it's probably the least beneficial thing, but the way this reactor comes apart (what I really like about it) for easy media changing I just felt that it would be best to put Phos guard and/or GFO in my media basket where it can hang out for a month and then the carbon in the reactor where I can easily pull it out every week or two. I may change that up though in the future. The pump is still super loud. It's kind of ridiculous.
  5. I enjoy a bubble tip in the tank. Once they find their spot they're good, and although I've heard of ones moving a lot, I've had a few and when healthy they don't move almost at all in my experience. I lost my last one in the move because this holding tank just doens't have the lighting for it (and I almost ruined by radion during a most unfortunate corner dip into the tank - it took over a month of sitting unscrewed/open but then it just magically came back on!! SO relieved!) so my little clown is trying to host a finger leather but she just looks sad hovering above it, mimicking the action of wriggling down into her nem without actually touching the leather. I can't wait to move her back and pick up another bubble tip at the local swap in a couple weeks. PS - I haven't read about lighting you plan for this tank but I don't believe the stock lighting will be enough.
  6. As someone who has the MP10 on the EVO 13.5, I am in agreement with @KISReef - it is WAY overkill. I only used it because my EVO was/is only a holding tank until I set my biocube back up and I wans't going to buy new equip just for a temporary tank. But the MP10 has to be dialed down to about 50% and then it doesn't agitate the top of the water very well. At 60% (what I have mine at now) it does well at the water surface but displaces the substrate. I have very fine black gravel (that "Haitian moon sand" or whatever fruity name they give it) and it is all at one side of the tank in a big pile because it's too strong for the shallow/small- ness of the tank. MP10s are great if you have a ReefLink (I do) and can specifically program them to run different cycles at different times of day, and make those cycles coincide with your lights 'rising sun to calming nights' kinda situation, but otherwise I think most ppl don't have a Reeflink and their MP10 is just set on one setting which makes it a pointless throwing away of money IMO because you can get any $20 powerhead if all you are going to do is set it on one setting and forget it. But yeah, the MP10 is just way too much for your tank unless you want to run it at less than half what it was made for and throw away about $100 in the process.
  7. Anyone else experience an extremely loud mini max reactor pump right out of the box? It's been running for two weeks and hasn't quieted down at all. I just changed it from hanging to suctioned to the bottom - didn't help. Changed it from highest to lowest speed - didn't help. I'm going to try wrapping it in a silicone oven mitt as I saw that suggestion for dampening pump sounds in general on another forum, but just curious if anyone else experienced this and what you may have done to fix it?
  8. Thank you for the replies, and for explaining Steve. I was thinking more a vertical design to deal with the two sets of slats and still make water flow correctly through all media: like a skinny, "1st (media) chamber" length-wise, the height of the entire cube chamber and only about 1" thick for floss, with a solid backing and the opening at the bottom to force flow upward into all the rest of the chambers, creating an inverse basket to overflow into cube chamber 2. But ultimately that's pretty specialized I realize now. In my perfect vision the basket would be a totally vertical design so the first section would be the 1" all floss, and the second would be 1ish" where the water would flow through media bags also positioned vertically, making it thin enough for a heater to fit behind it. But I would never expect something to be made that was some perfect vision just for my tank. lol Was just curious about the idea of various chamber positions and if you had kicked that around at all. Thanks for the suggestion @luckie1966. I will check those out. I am considering putting a skimmer back in (was looking at ReefGlass).
  9. My bad, I mistook the post about having GFCI surge protectors as the OP. And again, I don't really understand this arguing thing. I never said it wouldn't trip if you throw it in a bathtub full of water. I said that salt water dripping onto it may not trip it and isn't a great strategy for avoiding a potential fire. You explain later in this post that electricity flows from one prong to the other. Salt water has no reason to disturb that flow as the salt ions are an excellent conductor of electricity. IMO you can not assume salt water would disturb electricity the way regular water - which is an absolutely terrible conductor of electricity - would. Where would the imbalance of flow come in to play with salt water when salt water conducts electricity without disturbance? If there is no imbalance there is no tripping of the surge protection. ---------------------------- To the OP: I too rec some type of surge protector strips rather than just a strip that changes your two outlets into 6, for your own bodily protection. I'm sorry if I insinuated you should just use a common extension cord; that wasn't my intention, and I thought you were using surge protectors when this happened. But I also wouldn't lay them back on the floor and IMO it is location and protective measures others listed that are the best option to avoid fire-related issues due to the nature of salt water vs plain water. The individual switch strips in a surge protector are more costly. I found amazon to have the best price at about $35/strip. Also, IMO, I would try to avoid ones with USBs built in unless you have devices that are USB powered to plug in to them. I see no reason to have constantly-open ports around our salt tanks, when that is just another place for bad things like salt creep or salt water to sneak in and cause problems. Good Luck!!
  10. You misunderstand. I never said it wouldn't trip. I said GFCIs are NOT made to prevent FIRES, which is what this thread is supposed to be talking about, per the OPs description. To your second point: sure, GFCIs are better than nothing to prevent a house fire, but no better than a grounding probe. ~shrug~ They are both designed to prevent YOU from frying, not your house. Could they possibly be helpful in preventing a house fire? Sure... it's reasonable that they are better than nothing. Could they be MORE effective than simply mounting your electrical equipment better (different location, with a cover, with drip loops, etc)? Mmmm... I dunno. Clearly the OP experienced salt water on his GFCI protector and it was smoking so... And to me, that makes sense. A GFCI, from my understanding, trips when the hot wire and neutral wire have imbalanced electrical flow of at least 6 amps. Problem (again) salt water is an excellent electrical conductor so there is very little reason to assume the electrical flow would be interrupted in the way it would if a person is being electrocuted (where the electricity is actually traveling in from an outlet and out through a human body - so two different locations where the amps would be able to be different), if salt water simply drips on/into the outlet and the electricity continues to flow freely because it isn't going anywhere 'off route' from normal. Don't forget, the OP is asking about house fires. They bought GFCIs so they clearly already understand how to protect themselves against electrocution and don't need it explained to them. I find that's something we do a LOT on fish forums - explain what is already understood and offer no info about what was asked. They asked about protection for fires, and they already tried GFCI surge protectors. PS - and also don't forget, we aren't talking about just "water" as you mentioned (and I would agree that plain water will trip a GFCI - that's literally it's sole purpose for existence), we are talking about a natural, highly efficient, conductor of electricity - salt water.
  11. As I stated, GFCIs will prevent YOU from frying, but not your house. They are made for wet areas. AFCIs are made to prevent FIRE but not made for wet areas. For this reason, neither is a perfect fit for our hobby. Obviously not being killed by electrocution is a good thing but it won't stop what the OP is asking for help with.
  12. Nothing will completely stop disasters. If you read about GFCIs vs AFCIs, GFCIs are said to prevent about 50% of electrocutions, while AFCIs are said to prevent about 50% of FIRES. Problem is, GFCIs are for wet areas and AFCIs aren't so... ~shrug~ neither is too helpful for an aquarium. It's a false sense of protection either way IMO when it comes to our hobby, especially for saltwater - a natural, and very efficient, conductor of electricity. I guess with GFCIs at least you won't fry, but your house still will in the situation you described. To me, the best way to avoid water (and still this isn't 100%) spilling all over your outlets is to hang them. I use the velcro Command strips and I hang my strips high so the cords hang down but the water would have to travel 2+ feet upward to actually hit a strip, and I hang only either on the stand on the back chamber side of my AIO or on a wall with some bit of separation away from the main tank (like 4-5 inches). If there is enough room to lay them on the floor then there is enough room to stick them to the wall or stand. I too have one particularly big Zebra Striped Turbo who likes to sit on the return and make it splash. Big-little shit! so the power strips are placed where the spray wouldn't go. I'd say that is your truly safest bet. Also, I too prefer strips with individual switches. This has no bearing on the safety issue, but it is much more convenient and allows you to label each one and shut off just the equip you need to shut off individually.
  13. I guess this is more a request or suggestion than a question. I love my (Oceanic) Biocube InTank media basket, but it does limit my ability to really take advantage of the single truly versatile space in the biocube. Given that the first chamber in the biocube barely holds any of the most popular skimmers (so many have to be housed in chamber 2), why the decision to make the media basket for Chamber 2 instead of Chamber 1? Is it because the heater really needs to be housed in chamber 1 for the safety of the constant water level or was Chamber 1 just not considered? I would love to see a chamber 1 media basket version. Preferably one thin enough to still accommodate a small heater behind it for reason stated.
  14. The single complaint about the Maxijet 1200 on Amazon is how loud it is. I am trying to avoid my fish having to live in a construction site with constant loud noise and vibration. Even a loud pump isn't that big of deal for me, but I don't have to experience the sound and vibration constantly like the tank occupants do and I don't believe it's a great environment to give an animal.
  15. For those asking about the tank, you can buy one from Wish (or probably any of those other internet 'random discounted things' sites as well).
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