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Tribe1l

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  1. Elegant Blenny info and care

    I have a full grown adult in a 10 gallon coldwater setup with a catalina goby. I keep him with a "real" strawberry anemone, a moonglow anemone, an orange beadlet anemone and a bunch of "strawberry anemones" and "jewel anemones" corallimorphs. He looks exactly like the OP pic and is "beefy", the one posted later seems pretty scrawny and poorly colored so he's either a different subspecies or doing poorly. I keep my small coldwater tank at 60 degrees which is a little warmer than most of them like it but any lower and my tank starts "sweating".
  2. Thanks for the info. My chiller will handle it as I'm overpowered at the moment as it's intended for up to a 50 gallon but I've kept it at 61 as my aquarium gets condensation around 60. I will have to look into getting a thick acrylic tank if I want to drop it lower. How often are you feeding them?
  3. Thanks for the response. I typically have been feeding them a freeze dried filter food from Reef Cleaners that is a mix of particle sizes (mainly different size ground bits of seafood but there's a substantial amount of oyster eggs in there). I've also tried "reef snow" and "zooplankton-M" from Brightwell with no real apparent luck. The plumose are only rarely out and the jewels and strawberry "anemones" are usually only about half out at a time. My water parameters are fine and my temp is set at 61 degrees F. The light is the only thing I can think to blame but it's a 10 gallon with two small 5 inch micro compacts so it would be low light for freshie planted tanks let alone a reef tank.
  4. I'm not new to the reefing hobby in general but I am to the cold water arena. I've currently got a ten gallon set at 61 degrees with a catalina goby and elegant blenny as my fish and several aggregating anemones, moonglow anemones and a true strawberry (like a beadlet) anemone and all of the above are doing fantastic. I purposefully have the lowest lights possible just the stock 10 gallon hood with two five watt 50/50 micro compact flourescents. However, what is NOT doing well are my plumose or my "fake" strawberry and jewel "anemones". I feed them twice a week with filter food but the plumose seldom come out and the strawberries and jewel corallimorphs are not spreading. Over six months they are ever so slowly dying off about one per month or so. I've got probably 20 jewels and 40 strawberries left but they are NOT doing well and certainly not taking over the tank like I want them to. So what do I need to do differently?
  5. UNOFFICIAL SUN CORAL/DENDRO/RHYZO THREAD

    I'm in the process of setting up a 10 gallon coldwater system. Does anyone have thoughts on where I might track down some balanos or other stony nps that would grow and be happy in 58-60 degree water?
  6. Thanks for the info! Unfortunately T5s can't be done without destroying the stock look and if I didn't want the stock look I would have bought a small rimless of some sort. As far as LEDs, I would be ordering from Rapidled and they have 5W Warm white, neutral white, cool white and royal blue (actinic), but they also have 3W in red, amber, orange, green, cyan, medium blue and violet. I did buy two 10 W Coralife 50/50 (halg 10k and half actinic) and bought two $2 rubberized outdoor fixtures. So in the stock hood, I think I could fit up to six-seven LEDs if I went with one flourescent and maybe 4 if I went with two of the 10W mini compact flourescent. If you were in my shoes (and remember I don't care about corals in this tank) what combo or LEDs and Flourescents should I go with? And I probably will stick some xenias in the back, I always liked them and don't have any currently as about a year ago a small clump I kept carefully trimmed died for no apparent reason instantaneously. All other corals (a mixed back of sps, lps and other softies) were perfectly fine. Boggles my mind. If only aiptasia would just randomly die for no reason simultaneously.
  7. Oh and I missed you had a chromis as well. Return BOTH of them to the LFS. Chromis are an underrated fish in general as in the right setting their electric blue lipstick and eyeliner on their shimmering turquoise body looks great and they are a good community fish (dumb, no personality other than "nervousness" or skittishness, but work in a larger community tank. However in the Edge he is inappropriate. They max out at 3-3.5 inches and that's too big of an adult size fish for the little Edge. I know I just rec'd keeping as many as three little 1.5-2 inch max fish but there's a big difference in living quarter requirements and oxygen use. All of the gobies and blennies I mentioned do not need much living room and usually stay perched on a rock or stay half in and half out of a cave/crevice. They are not freely swimming around. The various small dottybacks may say 3 inch max, but they are a slender eel-like fish and don't spend alot of time exploring typically. The biggest "fish" shaped fish I would go with is the 2.5 inch Pygmy/possum wrasse and Allen's damsel. Plus, I have to say I've never really seen a 3 inch or 2.5 inch Pygmy possum wrasse it must be pretty rare to reach those sizes (my yellow banded Pygmy is two and half years old and only about 1.75-2 and he wasn't dwarfed by the Edge, he was previously hiding in a 60 gallon community tank all his life), meanwhile I've seen a TON of large chromis. Frankly I know it says that the biggest chromis ever scientifically measured is 3.1 inches but I doubt they're really measuring them that frequently or in an aquarium setting as my lfs has a school of old chromis where the smallest one is twice the size of my little wrasse.
  8. I did a lot of research and evaluation on potential livestock on the Edge before I got mine. Ditch the Damsel, it's inappropriate and will outgrow the tank. I you want a solitary damsel there's really only one and half that are appropriate for the edge. The neon or Allen damsel (do NOT mistake this as saying the Velvet Neon, Electric Blue or Blue Devils are appropriate) is small enough (max 2.5 inches) that if kept solitarily (and they do well by themselves). It's about 50-50 on the yellowtail damsel an it generally gets larger at 3 inches. So if you want a jack^%+ fish that's bright blue, get the Neon or Allen's damsel and make sure you get the right one as there are a lot of bright blue damsels and all of the others are inappropriate. While on the mode of solitary jack%*^ fish the Edge is appropriate for the small pseudochromis/dottyback so if you want a diadem, bicolor or other neat little dotty, throwing him in solitary confinement in the Edge is one of the few appropriate places for them. Note if you do try a damsel or dotty you are simultaneously ruling out having ornamental shrimp and crabs as they will assault and kill them even of they don't eat them. So just corals and dotty or Allen Damsel. Here's a list of all of the Edge appropriate fish other than the aforementioned. 1) A whitebanded possum wrasse, Tanaka's Pygmy wrasse or yellow banded pygmy wrasse. These are the only wrasses appropriate and if you keep corals that's all you get, just one fish. The good news is that I can speak with first hand experience that's I have one in my macroalgae planted Edge right now that the "shyness" attributed to this genus of wrasses go away when by themselves or only peaceful gobies. They are only considered "shy" in community tanks because they are tiny an everything is literally out to murder them. In an Edge they display the inquisitiveness and cleverness that all wrasses have PLUS have the incredibly cute extra behavior of "playing dead" then get one of these. If the Pygmy/possum wrasse is stressed or momentarily like a loud noise or lights flicking on and off they will immediately go to the ground and flip on their side and lay motionless (except for their eyes, even the breathing slows to not noticeable). I HiGHLY rec one for an Edge. It's the smartest fish you can keep in there and it looks like I'll be able to train him to do tricks like my Mystery Wrasse. 2) One, Two or even three of the following: a) cleaning gobies (blue neon, genie, sharknose, yellow line, gold neon, etc), they are brightly colored and will come up to the glass immediately to greet you, Panda or any of the "color" clown gobies. These will nip on sps and maybe even other corals so only get these if you will have alot of quickly growing coral where the occassional nip (I don't believe they eat the coral polyp just act like coral vampires and suck some of the juices out which will kill patches of sps), c) other assorted small "pico" gobies like masked, green banded, trimma, candy cane and red spotted. D) barnacle and two spot blennies. The only blennies small enough to fit in an edge but the good news is they have a cute disposition. 3) A Yasha goby with a candy cane or tiger pistol shrimp. You can see a FAR more interesting symbiosis than the clown/anemone everyone other than me loves. 4) A true percula clown and a the tiniest anemone you can find. Others like this, I'm not a fan. So that's my rec. Either 1 and only 1 Pygmy/possum wrasse, yasha goby, true percula, dotty or Allen's damsel or a small "community" of an assortment of three of the tiny gobies and blennies. If you keep the community of gobies and/or blennies you can also keep sexy shrimp which I highly recommend as they will host on maxi mini anemones, frogspawn, large palys, and even mushrooms and do a better job than the clown. All that I described would work, if you want the most activity in your little tank I'd suggest 4 or 5 sexy shrimp, a cleaner goby of some kind (I prefer sharknose), a panda OR yellow clown goby and a two spot blenny. That's alot of movement and some fairly bright colors at that (not the blenny but he'll make up for it by eating algae and being "cute". If you don't want that, then I'd strongly suggest the brilliance and mindblowingly cuteness of the Pygmy/possum wrasse or the hardworking pair of the Yasha goby and pistol shrimp. Frankly I'd Skip the damsel, dotty or clown but that's a personal decision, they will work.
  9. I picked up a 6 gallon Fluval Edge that I intend to use as a yasha goby/pistol shrimp duo. I already have two reef tanks so I thought I would make this long shallow pico a macro tank. I'm planning on modding the lights but thought I would first ask how much light do you think is sufficient for a macro tank? I'm neither looking to overbuy or more importantly bleach out and kill the macros. So I'm looking for lights that are "just right" neither too low nor too sps-y. If I keep any corals in there, it would be Xenia as I like the movement and don't keep them in my other reef tanks as I've already got zoas, palys and gsp to keep trimmed. My planned Macros are red halymenia, red gracilaria, blue ochtode, pencil caps, Green codium and possibly brown scroll (I know it takes more light so if it's too much hassle I'll skip it). Most of this is already either in my quarantine tank or on their way. As far as mods, I was thinking about using either 6-8 three watt Crees on single star heatsinks fixed to a reflector, 2 10w mini compact fluorescents, or maybe 1 mini compact with 4-6 three watt Crees. I'm keeping the stock hood so that means everything will be tightly packed. So first question, 1) keeping in mind no corals or maybe just Xenia, what lighting should I go with? Just LEDS, just fluorescents or a little of both? My logic behind having at least one flourescent is to get more "spread" and softer diffuse lighting to somewhat limit the spotlighting effect all stock Edges get. 2) Should I use the standard 50-50 cool white/actinic or "royal blue" style of lighting as you would in a typical reef tank, or should I make it redder for the macros. And if so, how red should it be? Replace cool white with neutral white? Swap cool white for warm white? Just limit the actinic/"royal blue"? Just through in one or two warm whites? One red? 3) Should I scrap the idea of brown scroll algae or just put it on a rock close to the center of the hood that's closer to the surface?
  10. I would definitely take some as well.
  11. Definitely thought about the barnacle and the even smaller two spot (not one spot) blennies. But they don't add alot of activity to the tank like a darting free swimming fish does. Both are fish I haven't had before so I'm again not speaking with first hand experience but they allegedly don't swim much except when food is in the tank (then they go crazy).
  12. Since the original post I've done some additional reading and allegedly (I say this because I have no first hand experience), but the Figure 8's not only do amazing well in full salt as they are only in rivers as juvies, but that the small size listed (2-2.5) for a max is their brackish max as they stay stunted and die young and that the full salt get to six inches!! So....never mind. As an aside, your not the only person to say they can't go above 1.008, I don't know if that's just old wives tales being recycled or if they don't do well with a quick transition like mollies and monos as everything says do a very slow transition for the puffers. That's not useful info for me as I've decided definitely to skip the puffs now but if someone is considering them a year down the road it might be helpful. The dwarf puffer does remain fully freshwater or slightly brackish in the wild even as adults. I have read several people successfully adapted them to full salt (keep in mind guppies and endlers can be adapted to full salt even breeding multiple generations but do not naturally occur there). Whether that's good for them or not is a different story. I haven't seen whether or not they live longer, grow bigger etc.. Either way micro puffs are out as I'm a snail CUC guy and wouldn't know what to do when he's chowing down on all of the CUC. I'm still trying to decide. Heck, I might even try the guppy or endler route to have a small free swimmer.
  13. Right now I've got a 29 gallon reef with mystery wrasse, flame angel, mono and bicolor blenny, a 5 gallon Fluval Chi with cardinal tetras and plants (lemon bacopa, amazon swords and java moss), and a 5 gallon Chi pico reef that I intend to add a sharknose goby, yellow line goby, and a trimma goby, to my already existing 4 sexy shrimp, and a porcelain crab. I've got a 6 gallon Fluval Edge getting ready to go, but I'm not 100% sold on what to put in there. I'm definitely not a clown person so don't pull out the clown card. I can say I'm planning on buying a 6 gallon coldwater in the near future from one of the loyal posters here to house a catalina goby, spiny lumpsucker and strawberry nems. And when I move in a year I'd like to add a larger freshwater planted tank with an Amazon biotope and a 20 gallon or so jawfish/Floribbean biotope tank. In the meantime, I need to plan out the Fluval Edge. Originally I had two thoughts, 1) make a yasha goby and Randall pistol shrimp pairing the primary focus and have just a few macroalgaes and maybe a gorgonian or two with one extra fish (fish tbd) or 2) make it a little mini puffer tank with either a Figure 8 puffer (max about 2.5 inches) or maybe try to salt adapt a dwarf puffer or two (they're tiny at only an inch and peaceful for puffers), maybe adding one other small goby or blenny (two spot or barnacle as they stay under 2-2.5). I'm somewhat concerned about the puffers as I always utilize a snail only CUC (ok...technically a lie because there's countless pods and bristleworms but I didn't buy them so they don't count...no microbrittles or asterina though as my mystery wrasse eats them if they ever pop up). So, I'd like to just brainstorm some ideas. If I have a yasha (which is the smallest easily available shrimp goby that I'm aware of as it should stay under 2.5 inches) I'd like to get some over fish that is free swimming or at the very least not another bottom dwelling goby. The 5 gallon Chi is the "goby" tank, so I'd like to get something else. Outside of a small clown which I have zero interest in, from what I've seen it looks like my options for under 2.5 inches, semi peaceful free swimmer that will not dive bomb the pistol every second would be: 1) one of the three species of Pygmy or possum wrasses, 2) an orchid or orchid/stripe hybrid pseudochromis (I know dotties are the devil, but these two species and only these two species are supposed to get along with gobies and has a 2/3 chance of not viewing the ornamental shrimp as lunch, Or 3) an orange lined or long fin cardinal. So thoughts? Any other ideas.
  14. Where do you purchase mini dart gobies?

    Not too surprising that they live a year in captivity, their lifespan is only 1-2 years so in the tank if you've got adults you're talking six months to a year and a half. But yeah, I did want to give them a try.
  15. I've been looking for them for sometime for my picks without success. Anyone know where to get them?
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