TJ_Burton

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About TJ_Burton

  • Rank
    Nano Reef Veteran
  • Birthday 04/03/1986

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  • Website
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClukkrsmOUUAvluAjK8eTUw

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CANADIA
  • Interests
    Reef Keeping & Coral Propagation, Vivarium Keeping & Plant Propagation, Guitar & Music Production, Video Game Design.

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  1. Get a 3rd Gen! They are awesome
  2. You nailed it! Basically I am allowing the primary drain to back up by precise tuning of the gate valve in order to stop air from entering the sump, and by bringing the water level as high up in the pipe as possible to reduce noise by decreasing the fall distance of the water entering the drain from the aquarium. I will have a pretty comfy area to aim for in the primary drain line before I hit the aux drain bend. The reason I have the aux drain looping up is just to prevent falling water from trickling down the aux drain (it can't splash into the aux drain line as it goes down the primary drain, but rather has to travel up and around which means the only time I will get water coming down the aux drain into the sump is if the primary drain is either blocked or if the gate valve is shut too far). Both drains are the same (1") diameter so the Aux drain can still accommodate the full capacity of the primary drain. Ideally there would be no water going down the aux drain during regular operation, and the water level would float in the safe zone on the primary drain. If the power goes out, the water from the primary drain goes into the sump as it always would. Upon restart, things should go right back to normal, and any backup during start up that may occur would go down the aux drain. I'd also make sure the aux drain pipe in the sump section sits just above the water level in the sump so that it isn't fighting any pressure of being underwater, and both air and water flow freely through the pipe. Having it above the water line would also give me an audible indicator of when water is coming down the aux drain and clue me into checking on the system. Its just a simple way to allow for the quieting properties of a Herbie system to work on a single drain bulkhead/overflow. It doesn't however act as a true redundancy since the display still relies on only the single bulkhead overflow. That is something that this tank just can not support since it only has the one hole drilled for a drain line.
  3. Glad to hear it! I have been a big fan of Hydor for many years now, and it makes me happy to know they are standing behind their products. Especially since I have at least 10 Koralia pumps kicking around, and a couple of Aqamai pumps in my display
  4. This is where I think I am headed with the plumbing. I want to try and quiet the system up as much as possible, so I am going to utilize the aux drain and use a gate valve on the main drain to try and keep air out of the drain pipe (herbie method). Since I only have one hole drilled in the tank, I am going to tee off from the main drain, loop up and back down, and that should allow any backed up water to overflow down the aux drain rather than overfilling the tank. The XAQUA INOUT accepts 3/4" tubing on its return fitting, so I am going to hard plumb half way, and have a barb to allow for soft tubing the rest of the way. The valve on the return is in case I want to add a reactor etc to the system without adding another pump. My eFlux 1900 DC pump is turned up less than half way as it is, so plenty of power left on that to run other things. I am also using a check valve there to prevent unwanted back-siphoning. For looks, using 3 colors of pipe. Violet, Grey, and Orange to keep the theme going. Purple - Main Drain Grey - Aux Drain Orange - Return Diagram isn't exactly to scale, just a general map of what I will be doing. All bends are done by heating the pipe similarly to how @Scorched did his system (which was the source for inspiration on plumbing this system). I've been practicing on some extra PVC pipe I had laying around, and am confident I can get all of these bends done (even the really tight 90s on the Aux drain).
  5. Sooo I am tossing around some ideas... One of which is to actually shut the tank down for the sump switch, move the livestock to a holding tank while I switch over, and reboot the tank once I am done with the plumbing. Reason being that it will be much easier to do the fancy pants plumbing if I can just move the tank around freely. I am also intending to heat and bend the pipe rather than use elbows, so that is something that I will need to finesse with as much room to work as possible. I was also considering redoing the scape completely, using TLF Stax dry rock when I can get my hands on a couple boxes. I have some ideas in mind that I think that rock would work really well for. I do however like my CaribSea Liferock scape that is currently in there, so I am still on the fence with this particular thought. That being said, I am just waiting for the sale this weekend on BRS' website before placing my plumbing order. Should give me enough time to figure out exactly what I want to do. Decisions, decisions!
  6. @yungKitten Were both of these pumps on the same power bar / outlet? Were they surge protected? I had a pretty in-depth conversation with a good friend of mine that is very much into general and electric engineering, and he suggested both pumps look to have overheated critically, and the resin ended up melting because of it. It takes some pretty ridiculously high temperatures to melt epoxy resin, and from the first photo you posted, he noted the exposed motor and the two dark spots where it looks like the terminals where the wires may have attached to the motor. If there was a power surge for instance, it is possible those points of contact were compromised and essentially started to arch which could create temps high enough to melt the resin. Alternatively the winding could have failed and essentially turned the motor into a heater which could also reach ridiculous temps and melted the resin. In either case, he is suggesting the resin is not the point of failure, but rather, a casualty of another failure that caused excessive heat.
  7. Aqamai KPS is 340-1050 gph controllable and the size of an egg, so definitely a good option for nano tanks.
  8. So the KPS like the Gen 3 pumps are made differently. The resin is actually exposed on the face of the pump rather than behind an aesthetic plastic cap at the back of the pump. The resin is also grey rather than blue/green. Highly doubt they have the same potential for the issue you've experienced. Hopefully you hear back from Hydor soon!
  9. I popped open an older Evo 850 I had laying about. The same blue/green resin as your units. I will have to inspect my KPS pumps as well. They are different motors / technology from the current Hydor products, so I am not sure if they are built using the same material or in the same plant for that matter.
  10. That looks awful! Gotta say its the first I've seen this happen to any hydor products. Crazy though... maybe a bad batch? I've probably owned at least 20 of these pumps over the years and never had any blow up like that. Way to make us reefers feel uneasy! Yeesh. Let us know what Hydor says.
  11. I too have Nauti Spiral, Sunset monti and a pretty nice green cap with red polyps. Here is my Forest Fire
  12. For the price point, you won't find a more feature-rich pump. Customizing your own flow schedule is much faster and less buggy than Ecosmart Live, and the tiny footprint puts it high on my list given that it still kicks out 1050 gph. Build quality is pretty good - the DMSS is great for mounting the pump, and is sturdy. I will say the face of the impeller cover is thin and can be cracked if you push directly on it with any amount of force. That being said, I was being rough with it when I cracked mine, although a dab of super glue solved that issue. I currently have 2 of them running similar schedules on a 50 gallon and they are doing a fantastic job. I can imagine on a 12 gallon, a single KPS would be enough to get things moving to your corals' liking. I don't think you'll be disappointed with a KPS.
  13. Only one place to get them at the moment, and they should be in stock within the next 2-3 weeks tops. https://www.bigalspets.com/pro-clear-aquatic-systems-frag-fuge-reef-sump-26.html Managed to swing the $300 price tag we were hoping for as a sale for the first little while.
  14. eBay! They have lots of sizes actually, so I am going to change out the Skimmer's air hose as well as the ATO etc. Thanks! Yeah, we decided to actually make this sump available because we were getting a lot of positive feedback on it. I sent it over to Jake knowing they enjoy being the first to blog about a new product
  15. Starting to come together! Need to grab some plumbing from BRS and I can start getting everything dry fit outside the stand in prep for the switch.