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About illiath

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    Community Member
  • Birthday 01/22/1977

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  • Location
    Sunnyvale, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Freshwater Aquariums<br />Saltwater Aquariums (Newb *grin*)<br />Trains (Both model and the full-sized ones)<br />IT (It's my job)<br />Computer Games (I'm a geek!)<br />
  1. Wiring help for Pico Reef

    Yeah, the 24/48 means the voltage, and that's where things get complex with this. I don't actually know the voltage required for the rapidled lights. And given that I'd have to calculate off the LED specs and give an estimate, but not knowing how they hook it up (series/parallel) then my guess could totally destroy your setup. Your best bet would be to send them a quick email and ask them if they have a dimmable driver that supports that kit, they might even be willing to do it as a straight replacement upgrade where they replace the kit driver with the dimmable one for only a small upcharge (the dimmer is more expensive). You also need a way to use the dimmer. Heck they might even have a plug in module they sell that goes between the standard driver and the light kit. I haven't searched their site to check
  2. Wiring help for Pico Reef

    The lighting looks good (to me), however might I recommend you source the Meanwell Dimmable ballast? Something like the ELN-60-24 perhaps (depends on the voltage you need with those LED's, the 24 looks right, but I'd have to do the math, and I'm trying to wing the response quickly here *grin*). The reason for that is that you then build the fixture as provided by rapidled, test and prove it all works, then you use the dimmable version for the display tank and you'll lower the light output to appropriate levels. Heck if you're going to have that heatsink over the tank, might as well go the whole hog and be able to adjust the lighting levels the tank needs
  3. Show me your mini sumps!

    I'll grab photo's a little later today, but I revamped my sump/refugium for my 5g display. I've cheated this time and went and grabbed a 2g Evolve, and then drilled it for inflow and outflow. I didn't want to drill the glass display, so my 'fuge is higher than my display. EDIT: Okay, so I didn't grab the photo the same day, but here it is. The fuge is the thing on the box on the right. I have a few plants for light shields and such, for now though the fuge light is only on when the main lights are on for the tank.
  4. Wiring help for Pico Reef

    I think we're drifting a little OT, however... here's a simple solution, if you're DIY inclined. Grab any 12v travel heater, one of the 12v coffee cups might be easiest for this. Drop a really tiny pump in it to run a water loop, have the water loop pass THROUGH your tank/sump/whatever, but not run the water from your setup there. So, basically, you heat water in the heater, pump it through a pipe, into the area you wish to heat, run through that with a bunch of loops (basically a small coil approach), then return to the original heating vessel. This would let you use a non-reef-safe heater, but still heat the reef water, though you'd need to be certain your coil in the reef is leak-proof. The other option, is to heat a container of water/other liquid and run water flow from the reef through that. This might be safer for the reef if you spring a leek, or the heater does something nuts... BTW, I loved Holland when I used to visit there on business (my husband's company of the time had an office there), however not being a native I never could find any decent electronics parts stores... of course the time we tried to get the Garmin Europe map update there was.... amusing to say the least I think we confused the sales critter more than we normally do
  5. Wiring help for Pico Reef

    Strange as in it actually looks like the traces are moving around the PCB... After we killed power to the circuit there was actually melting of the PCB, but we knew we didn't pump in high voltage, just high current... it's weird. And that much current will kill you, even with the low voltage. So once again, Don't anyone try that at home. Yes, there's a lot more on the mains voltage options, but if the reason for one plug was to not use a power strip, my first thought was dropping to low voltage where you could use a single decent power supply. And yes, I have found 12V heating devices... though it all depends on how big the tank is. Smaller is quite doable. And then there's the option of refitting some of the AIO low voltage heaters for whatever tank (especially as you could then run multiple heaters in case of a single failure). I'm trying not to say what manufacturers of some of the AIO's I've found that do low voltage and appear to do them well, primarily as I've never seen one in person, nor do I know if they work at all. A google search for "12v aquarium heater" brings up a surprising number of results, and some of them if implemented right could probably heat really large tanks with a bit of ingenuity. Again, I say probably and such, never used most of the ones I can find online... I did a lot of 12/24V work when I was a kid (Dad was in volunteer emergency services, so we had lots of neat stuff to play with, mostly camping gear primarily but a 12V kettle is a 12V water heater.... *grin*).
  6. How old are you?

    Hasn't anyone told you, it's rude to ask a lady her age? *cackle* Glad I'm just a woman, and no lady *evil grin* 35, going on 7000 Been in freshwater since I was born (family had tanks, was actually catching guppies and other freshwater stuff in the local creek). Only started on a reef this year. Up until 2001 I could just drive to where I could dive the Great Barrier Reef.... so never really wanted my own little box of ocean. Now I'm in the land of freezing oceans.
  7. Two week old still cycling tank. What is this?

    Yes, but only with RODI water, not premix salt water. But you should also be checking your salinity every few days, and before you top off, if it's dropped slightly, top off with salt water. The salt will not evaporate off like the water does, however it does slowly "creep" out of the tank in other ways. +1 to the refractometer idea. I wound up paying $60 for mine, but that's because I live in ExpensiveVille. If you can find one that self temperature calibrates for you, that's a good idea, but you also need RODI to calibrate it every so often. +1 to the rockscape, it's nice, makes me wish I'd had the inclination to go for a larger saltwater tank. To your original question, it looks to me like film algae of some variety. I had massive amounts of that when I first put my s/w tank together, however I had major amounts of flow for my tank (too much originally) and it started clogging my pump inlets, I had to remove them to clean them every few days. I also get a very similar looking (clearish, but more filming) whenever I need to shutdown and restart the pump that runs through my external heater. And I get almost exactly the same looking stuff in my freshwater planted tank whenever I restart everything after maintenance. I've just gotten over the bulk of where your at with the tank myself, and this is my first saltwater so most of this stuff is fresh in my mind I also started buying my saltwater premixed from the LFS... however as you need RODI for so many other things, I decided to start mixing at home (and it turned out I had a spare circ pump to make the mixing easier). You want RODI to rinse off any new things you'll be putting in the tank (probes/thermometers/filter media (if needed and if it should be rinsed)), as well as calibrating the refractometer. I also use it to wipe down with outside the tank (clean paper towel and RODI water really helps keep things clear, even cuts down on the salt creep once you figure out where it happens most frequently on your setup). And lastly I use it to rinse off any tools I use in the tank (tweezers, baster, etc). Now all I generally do is have a small (2 Quart/1 Liter) plastic bucket that I half fill with RODI, and then I just dunk and swish most stuff, anything I need to actually rinse I'll rinse into the bucket. When it gets full, I toss the water and refill half way.
  8. Wiring help for Pico Reef

    Funny... I do And I have a really strange idea for one, but that's OT for this thread Which is why I suggested to the OP that they step-down to 12/24v, as while it's still possible to kill yourself that way (I remember a great trick I did in early electrical engineering where we ran 1v at around 10k Amps through a circuit... it's fun watching the traces get up and move *evil grin*..... <mythbuster mode>DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!</mythbuster mode>). Anyhow, while it's still possible to do yourself an injury, most of the decent mains->low voltage DC converters have enough limiting in them to reduce the chances to very little. And on a plus side, if you needed to run the voltage through the tank (for cabling), less risk to the tank from low voltage.
  9. Mixing saltwater for the first time

    Normally when people say aerate, they mean airstone or something like that. A good circ pump seems to work for my mixing, so... YMMV In my case I bought a circ pump for my tank, but I'm fairly convinced if I kept using it, my tank would start shooting around the room, and I'm aiming for low-flow corals anyhow, so I use it for water mixing now.
  10. Wiring help for Pico Reef

    Most of the devices I've seen are mains driven, so given that, why would a small power strip not work? I guess it depends on your cube farm rules, I know some do not allow power strips. Given that issue then, I've seen some 12v systems for pumps, and most LED light strips are 12v (though be careful a lot of them are 24v these days), the only concern would be the heater. Hmm... if you could find 12/24v everything, then you could just get a decent mains->DC convertor and run them that way, then to turn the lights off, you could do it manually with an inline switch Hmm... now I wonder what I can find for this, as 24v systems can be run off solar....... *mind cranks over* I know... OFF TO GOOGLE! EDIT: Google search returned a bunch of different components that can be used to run low-voltage which could then be used together with the right supply... the other option is carefully buying the right AIO kit and switching out the light (perhaps). I found some that also run low voltage so that's also another option (especially if you've got sunlight at your cube... anyone say solar-powered-reef?)
  11. Few validations of ID's please?

    Glad to hear it They'll add a nice little splash of random colour to the tank, and fit in well with my tank theme, which is mostly that I don't want to have to feed it I'm planning on spawning some brine shrimp randomly in the sump, but otherwise, I want the tank to be as hands off as possible. But who knows about the next tank
  12. Few validations of ID's please?

    Foraminiferians, okay, that's another new animal to me , nothing too problematic I assume given what I've read online trying to figure the word out It appears to be a filter feeder HH, and not poisonous or likely to be too problematic, I suspect. I hope it's not something I should try to get rid of, as it's all over the rock... I'm happy I got three of the four (mostly thanks to the ID stickies), the fourth has been giving me problems, as I really didn't even know where to start. I just went with random options trying to find pictures that where close
  13. Worm ID

    Thanks, I gather it's some kind of Bristleworm, I pulled it when I saw it. I still don't know what happened to that Trochus, but I have another and two blue-legged hermits that are still happily wandering the tank... so, unless the other Trochus drops dead in a week, I'm going to assume there was just something wrong with the first one (perhaps sick/injured when I bought it).
  14. So, as I picked up a few things in the grab-bag-bin at the LFS the other day, I've been hoping to finally properly ID them. Any validations would be appreciated, or if I'm wrong, holler and tell me what it really is. Sorry for the lighting, it's a Marineland Double-Bright, I've got a new light on order, expecting to have it in later in the week... Also, these guys are tiny, the largest is only a little over an inch and a half across. Click on any image to see the larger image (1024x768). So, first off I believe this to be a varietal of Briareum (Pachyclavularia) violacea (Green Star Polyps), yay? nay? This one confuses me... is it Red Corralline? It's popping up all over my rock, so I'm hoping it's some variety of coralline... Given some of the pictures I've found online, I suspect it's Titanoderma prototypum, but I'm no expert. And my mushrooms, names (trade/species would be nice is possible):- First off, is this Discosoma ferrugata (Red Mushroom)? Secondly, is this Rhodactis indosinensis (Elephant Ear Mushroom)? Anyhow, thanks in advance for even reading this I would appreciate knowing I'm not completely insane with my ID's also
  15. Worm ID

    Yeah, I had thought of that, but the ID sites I've looked at aren't all that clear on how to be sure, and this guy does not appear to have any feathery spines, just the spikey fleshy parts... Of course, small, so who knows what it would look like when it grows up...