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Salty_Snack

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About Salty_Snack

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  1. aqueon 5 evolve w leds pics !

    Do you mean evolve 4?
  2. How much should I sell this for

    If you could get $100 I would take it without question. I was thinking more like $50 depending on what some of the equipment is in terms of brand/model.
  3. Your sofites probably won't be to happy about it... The A150 is not meant to be on a pico, although many people have done it.
  4. Have questions about freezing saltwater experiment

    Not really. Assuming the same amount of ice was added to a perfectly thermally insulated pure water bath and a similar salt water bath of the same volume and the same initial temperature the ice added to the salt water bath would melt more than the ice added to the pure water bath until the melting temperature of each of the baths was reached (at which point no more melting would occur). The rate is a simple matter of energy transfer which has no dependency on the presence of dissolved ions in solution. The reason "ice packs" often use colloids is to have a lower freezing point than pure water. Thus it keeps your food (for example) at a lower temperature than a water ice pack would.
  5. New and overwhelmed

    On second thought I'm not sure you should have a tank in a daycare, for two reasons... 1. You need to take the appropriate steps to insure the safety of the children whose care is intrusted to you. I think a shatter-proof acrylic aquarium is reasonable precaution to take around a daycare full of children, partially because of the chance of breaking the tank and the other part will be in #2. I don't really think anyone who solely is relying upon the good behavior of the children at all times is being overly realistic. 2. Do you know about the toxins found in most corals... especially the potential for palytoxin in zoas? On top of that you realize that marine aquariums are full of bacteria and children love to touch things and put their hands in their mouths? When I was young, the daycare I went to had a large freshwater aquarium that was eventually dismantled, probably do to some of the same safety concerns. To be completely honest, none of the children, me included, really cared about it. It was in the room but no one payed attention to it. We would rather play a game or play outside or watch a tv when we eventually got one of those. It sounds to me like you want a reef and your just using the daycare as an excuse to get one (tax write off maybe?) If you want a reef than I think you should get one. I just really have to question if it needs or should be in a daycare center. If you have to "definitely add you [your] insurance though!" then I think you have your answer as to whether or not you should do it. Anything that you would bring into a daycare that would require additionally insurance is something that doesn't belong there.
  6. New and overwhelmed

    IMO all the cubes are ugly as hell and suck from the standpoint of the curved front increases the difficulty of cleaning and distort your view. There are better options in glass AIO aquariums. That being said, I would go with acrylic if kids are going to be around it all the time. I think it would only be a matter of time before one of them manages to crack or shatter a glass aquarium. Quite honestly an apex lite controller has been the best investment I have ever made for any of my tanks. I would never set up another tank without one, be it a 6 gallon nano or 200 gallon sps reef.
  7. New and overwhelmed

    For your minimum you'll need at least 20 gallons... 30 would be better. Oh and royal grammas are a huge pain in the ass. One killed all of the other smaller fish in a friends 40b because it was so teritorial. It just sounds to most of us like you don't know what you want... As small of a tank as you can get with the most livestock possible that requires little maintenace and somehow is not the focal point of the room. (how a big glass box full of colorful fish and corals will not be the focal point of a room is beyond me!) Oh and it has to sit on IKEA particle board "furniture" that is not meant to support hundreds of pound. As for optimization... you'll need a 40b, drilled with a sump, skimmer, and macros or an ATS, expensive lighting, a controller, ato system, ect. OR you could just get a 10 gallon tank, 5 lbs of live rock, some aragonite sand, a powerhead and heater... put a couple of clowns in it along with a clean up crew and be done with it. I don't really think the kids will care if you have a cheap $200 fish only system or an amazing few thousand dollar set up since my guess is they won't spend all day looking at it anyway... I guess what I'm trying to convince you of is to start small and cheap. It isn't like you have to keep your first system your entire life. Most of us starting off with something that we have since changed as we became more experienced and my guess is you will want to change things in the future too. I think what your trying to get is years of experience by posting on an online forum but sorry... you can't. You'll run into problems and have to figure out solutions. It's almost always easier with a small tank than with a large tank. Worst case fix is usually you change out 100% of the water and substrate and scrub the rock... much easier to do with 10 gallons of water than with 30.
  8. New and overwhelmed

    +1^^ What your describing is impossible. Small tanks with a lot of livestock is very difficult to maintain and will still be very expensive. Having a "star, clam, anemone, tubeworms" in a less than 10 gallon tank will not be possible for a beginner unless you are very well read and have deep pockets, it would be a challenge for an experienced reefer. Clams and anemones require high levels of lighting so get ready to spend at least a few hundred dollars on lighting alone. The fact that you listed a (singular) snail implies that you need to do some more reading before you begin. Basically what you are describing cannot be done, especially by a beginner. The tank alone is only a small part of the set up costs. Get ready to spend at least several hundred dollars initially, and that does not include maintenance costs. Here is what I would do: Aqueon evolve 8 eheim 50 w heater 6 lbs of live rock (bare bottom, no sand) Some kind of ATO Livestock: stick with one maybe two small fish a few small snails No coral until you are sure you can maintain the aquarium properly One last thing... You need clean water, NO tap water. Either get RO/DI or distilled.
  9. Again, dermal exposure is unlikely to have any effect unless it is in large concentrations. This molecule is HUGE and will not easily cross into a person's body through the skin unless it get in an open cut. Boiling it, however, will create a nice aerosol that can easily be inhaled. Once the molecule has landed on a room temperature surface the likelihood of it coming off that surface and into the air is very small due to its molecular weight and its large number of nitrogens and oxygens in the chain. So unless they would be walking around the house licking, rubbing open wounds or their eyes on all kinds of surfaces it is unlikely much will happen unless there is a lot of palytoxin on the surface. Could it have been something other than palytoxin... yes. However, the symptoms fit, the timeline fits, and the fact that he boiled zoas fits very very well with palytoxin. I assure you there is nothing chemically impossible about the story. Its a distict possibility of some idiot making sh*t up. Interestingly, I had a discussion about palytoxin and zoas with my LFS owner, who used to lecture at a B1G (Big Ten) vetrinary school and still on occasion guest lectures there. He has read the claims of palytoxin poisioning online and has a few friends and customers claim that they were exposed, again nothing conclusive. He himself has had zoas come in the store that would make his hands tingle and go partially numb when being handled roughly or being fraged. He said don't eat them, dont' get them in your eyes, and don't get them in any open cuts... I asked about boiling them and he asked me why in the hell would you do that anyway... don't boil them either! Other than that they are nothing to worry about.
  10. You can say that, and you'd still be wrong. There is no question that palytoxin exists and it is highly potent. Research has shown it is present in zoas found in aquariums. The likelihood of death is low but it can still make you very very ill.
  11. Look at the palytoxin msds if you want to find reliable info on its toxicity based on different routes of exposure. Some chemical suppliers (aldrich, ect.) do or have had it avilable for purchase. Another good source is google scholar. Many of the articles require a subscription to get access which you may be able to get through a library, especially at a research univeristy, but there are a fair number of free articles on there too. Medical dictionaries and encyclopedias list palytoxin; its symptoms, lethality, treatment, mechanism, and side effects. I'm sure you can purchase a copy for yourself if you want but I'm not sure how much that will cost you. Basically, palytoxin is a fairly stable organic moleucle with a half-live of one to two hours in our bodies. You can't really kill it becuase it isn't alive. Aldrich claims it should be stored in the dark at around 0 C because it is light and heat sensitive (although it probably decomposes very slowly under ambient conditions, aldrich is typically overly cautious). It is also decomposed by strong acids or alkalines. It is water soluble, so rinsing off your gloves should be sufficient to remove most of it, if it is present. Activated carbon will absorb it so it can be removed from you tank. I don't believe exposure to air will cause decomposition. Neither alcohol nor the surfactants in soap will have much of an effect in terms of decomposition. If you interested in how it can be made see: http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/ja00103a065
  12. I think you need to read the link (http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0018235) that I had posted above. Palytoxin is in fact found in some of the zoas found in our aquariums and is present in lethal quantities. On the good side, route of exposure has a large effect on its toxicity which makes it unlikely to kill people. Tetrodotoxin isn't found in all puffer fish either and is only harmful when eaten since it is found most concentrated in the liver, although lower amounts may be found in the skin of the fish. The estimated LD50 for a human is over 10 times higher for Tetrodotoxin than for palytoxin. Maybe that is why you don't see any therapeutic uses of palytoxin.
  13. Hehe. Good thing I'm better at chemistry than I am spelling. To bad the iphone doesn't have grammar check as that sentence makes no sense as written. Not sure what fancy science talk your referring too?
  14. I'm confused by your statement, I see neither my insult nor your intelligence in the above posts lol... Did you really microwave live rock? It isn't like 99.9% of zoas are toxin free and this guy is the one person that has a toxic specimen. I'm not aware of any large scale studies but most small sample size studies find at least 10 to 20% of the tested zoas contain enough palytoxin to be mindful of its presence. Basically you've been lucky if what you described is true.
  15. Boiling zoas inside of his home and the symptoms he and his wife experienced strongly suggests palytoxin. Unfortunately testing for such small amounts of such a massive organic molecule is difficult to do. The vapor pressure of the molecule is most likely vanishingly small at room temperature and dermal exposure to nanograms of the toxin will have few if any noticeable effects, none of which are life threatening. A human has to inject approx. 50 micrograms to cause death. Not all species of zoas contain palytoxin: http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0018235 Wiki clames decomp. at 300 C... but it probably begins to break down long before that at a slow rate. Looking at it chemical structure: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palytoxin there is no reason it would quickly decompose in boiling water (100 C).
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